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ambiguousrocket

Ford Mondeo Tdci Mk3 - Car Goes Into Limp Mode

26 posts in this topic

 

Welcome Along!

check the fuel filter hasn't been put in back to front, and when you changed the filter, did you replace the housing seals too? sounds like it could be air in the fuel lines to one extent,

The issue with going berserk, sounds more like the TPS hadnt returned, so it thought you had your foot down through the floor, or perhaps the pedal got stuck. wont be anything to do with the glow plugs specifically...

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no problem. look forward to hearing some good news!

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Is your mondeo the same as mine, it uses a canister fuel filter? There isn't really much to go wrong with them to be honest.

You will need to get the codes read otherwise you are just having a stab in the dark.

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Glad to hear its worked for you Basil, look forward to positive results.

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Hi, I changed the fuel filter to a genuine one. I checked the o-ring, there was only one and it seemed ok. After I put in the new filter, I revved the engine for a good 1 minute hoping any trapped air would dispserse. Took the car down the motorway, thrashed the bugger and it was top notch. Fingers crossed it will remain this way. Will keep you guys posted. Cheers

The glow plugs are only used to start the engine, and should have no effect once the engine is warmed up

The variable vanes on the turbo can coke up, which can cause exessive boost pressure as the VNT (variable nozzle turbo) controls the boost via the electronic or pnumatic actuator,the exessive boost pressure is liable to occur at high revs/ load and can trigger limp home mode. "thrashing" it can help to clear the coking up a bit and loosen off the vanes

The other thing that can cause similar symptoms is the EGR valve, this can be intermittent as well as the valve can stick then un-sieze

Its a good idea to get your falt codes read/ invest in a code reader, without the codes its just guessing really

If it is reduced fuel pressure causing the EML/ limp home mode the new filter will have sorted it, generally a genuine/ quality filter flows fuel better than a cheap pattern one

On a Euro 4 Mondeo mk3 often the power can drop off above 3.5k/ or peak power is at 3.5k, if this is the case it means there is no point in revving it past this and you may accelerate faster and get a better consumption if you change up at 3.5k when you are "in a hurry" rather than revving it out all the way to the redline, untill you are in top (on an autobann - of course!) it seems counter- intuative and redlining it may give the illusion of going/ accelerating faster - but some of us have even timed these things (depends on the exact engine/ power curve)

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Hello, the car is still running top notch. What you have mentioned makes a lot of sense and I'm thinking of buying a fault code reader - any particular one could you recommend? There are so many on eBay and Amazon that I don't know which one to go for.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxiscan-Diagnostic-Scanner-Reader-MS300/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362082432&sr=1-1

Is this the one I should be going for?

Thank you

You may have an OBD1 compatible car,(not OBD2) OBD2 did not become manditory on diesels untill 2004,(petrol = 2000) the plug/ device will phisically plug in but it may not be electronically compatible/ may not "pick up" the codes

The only code readers i know work with pre 2004 cars are the F-super and the Ford- compatible superchips bluefin BF-005T

Thats if your Mondeo is 2001 as in your profile, if its 2006 as in your post, any Ford- compatible (there are 4 different widly-used protocols) OBD11 reader will be ok (even if your exact car is not listed if it lists a lot of Fords its probably OK on post 2004 diesels and post 2000 petrol cars)

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Im not familiar with the device, ive looked at it online and it claims to have the Ford protocols, but it may have to be setup/ programmed for these protocols and "generic OBD2" may be the default setting, you will just have to read through the instructions

there is a CD rom with the scanner, that may just be the PDF manual or it might have the ford protocols on

Update - you put the cd rom in your pc - and the programme tells you what the fault codes (dtc) mean

is the machine lighting up? - make sure its plugged in fully - you may have to push the socket and plug together because of the way it is made

it should do something different when you turn the ignition off/ on/ start

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Hi Basil

I too had a limp mode problem when accelerating. The red 'cog' engine stop lamp would light up rather than the amber engine management light. My code reader is unable to read the faults associated with the red 'cog' only the EML when illuminated.

Worth going to the garage to read the cached fault code/s then tackling the cause if necessary. The diagnosis on mine was EGR valve which I've subsequently blanked off.

Best of luck

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Hello mate, the Maxiscan Diagnostic Scanner OBD2 MS300 says "NO CODES" on the screen when I plugged it in. The engine was running and even not running shows NO CODES. Should the management engine light be on before it can give us any codes because my car doesn't show any warning lights.

Please inform soon.

Thank you

Cheers

yes the warning light is indicating there is a fault and that a code has been registered

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Thats great all makes alot sense, How much are you selling the "blue Fin" for?

Thanks again, hope to hear, Tony.

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Thats great all makes alot sense, How much are you selling the "blue Fin" for?

Thanks again, hope to hear, Tony.

I was wanting to get £60 for it, and £10 P+P (tracked, signed for)

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It's 2006 Year mate. Sorry. Thanks for the info. I will buy one today. Cheers.

Hello again, the 2006 Mondeo TDCI is probably Euro4, if so the EML will come on if you fit a blanking plate - but this can be reset with a code reader

I recommend a solid stainless steel plate, mild steel can rust, aluminium can melt (EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ones with holes are literally a waste of time (and don't "fix" a faulty EGR valve)

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There is no warning light at the moment but there was a warning light, it seems to have disappeared. The flashing warning light was the glow plug light. The fault code reader I bought maybe is not so good.

this is the problem i had. its the egr valve, mate.

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Try this!!!!!!

Remove and clean the crank angle sensor!

I had this very same problem with a 2004 150 tdci estate, it would rev to 3,000 rpm ish and then just cut dead, turn the key to off and it would restart instantly, it would even drive ok until it got to 3,000 rpm again and would then just cut out.

I had no codes etc etc so I assumed it was electrical and went for the first thing I could think of which was the crank angle sensor.

I took it out and found the magnet was covered in metal filings which probably came from the recent clutch change, I cleaned the filings off and the car started and drove like a rocket again.

The problem was/is that the ecu is/was not getting a strong enough signal from the sensor so cuts the engine when it goes above its safe threshold for the signal it is receiving.

It is worth a try as you are describing exactly the same as I had!

P.S. I had to take it out a further 2 times to clean over the next couple of months but after that it was fine!

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The crank angle sensor would have been covered in metat filings due to the (old) DMF/ clutch breaking up

Good point though and worth checking especially if the DMF has/ is breaking up

Another good reason for fitting a solid flywheel

In my opinion, fitting an EGR blanking plate first is a good idea because it eliminates the EGR as the source of the problem and it only costs about £5 for the plate , its easy to fit on a mk3 Mondeo and the car will run a bit better with the EGR blanked (a win - win situation)

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you may be having trouble with the code reader because diesels were not obd2 untill 2004.

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you may be having trouble with the code reader because diesels were not obd2 untill 2004.

The OPs car is 2006 - it says 2001 in his profile -

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