wideawakewesley Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hoping someone can help. In the last week I've had a new fuel filter (it was blocked causing low fuel pressure and engine systems fault) and a new injector (it was leaking a lot of diesel) fitted on my 56 plate 1.8 TDCi. Since getting the car back on Tuesday, the car feels like it's driving ok, but has been giving off a burning smell near the rear drivers side wheel. Can't be sure that's exactly where it's coming from, but it's in that general area. My immediate thought was something to do with the brakes, but it seems far too co-incidental that it's just come back from repair and I've read elsewhere people suggesting it could be burning soot deposits? Having just forked out a small fortune, I'd rather not take it back to the garage. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 could be the brakes seized on. If possible, if you have a car park at work, drive around the car park slowly (after car parked up and gone cold) and do not use the brakes if possible. just do a lap or two, then let the car roll to a halt. Check the disks for heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Typically, my wife has the car today, but I'll do a similar check as soon as I can. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 After driving it this morning, I don't think I need to do any further testing. I had smoke coming off the drivers side rear brake. It must be intermittent though, but I guess it's off to the garage. Can't believe this has all happened in a two week period. Can it be anything other than the caliper now? If it is that, can it be repaired or do they need to replace both rear calipers or just the malfunctioning one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IINexusII Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Has any of the diesel leak been passed around the underside of the car? when i had my first injector leaking it had some how covered nearly everything underneath up to the rear suspension parts (after a few motorway journeys). you might want to give the underside a good jet wash before sending it off to the garage, and also check the brake fluid to see if its disappearing after topping it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 sounds like it could be the caliper, or more likely a stuck piston. it definately needs the garage if they did the work, they should fix it for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 The main dealer did the work on the fuel filter and injector, was planning on taking it somewhere cheaper for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 A sticking handbrake cable could be the culprit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 If it was the handbrake cable, wouldn't it effect both sides or does that only work on one side (I know sod all about this kind of thing)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 If it was the handbrake cable, wouldn't it effect both sides or does that only work on one side (I know sod all about this kind of thing)? No it could affect one side, it splits into 2 cables under the car. So it's quite possible that it's seized on one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Cheers, I'll make sure they check for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Garage reporting the caliper has completely ceased up and needs a replacement, I asked if it could be fixed rather than replaced, got a definitive no on that. Thankfully the brake disc and pad are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 hopefully not an overly expensive repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitmonster Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I had a seized caliber on a Laguna once. I was told that it *could* be unseized and greased, but it would probably go again within a few months. I got a second hand one for £30 and a mechanic mate fitted it for a tenner. Iit was fine. Note that the disc and /or pads may be damaged from the heat so may need replacing too - especially if you have driven a long distance, or at high speed. (Mine was stuck off rather than stuck on, so the disc and pads were fine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Further concerns. So there's a new calliper on now (I was told the pads and discs were ok), however, I'm definitely getting more heat in that disc that the other side. I took the car round the car park a few times from cold without using the brakes and there was slight warmth in the one with the new calliper on. The other one was cold, so something is rubbing. Can't decide whether to take it back to the garage for more work and more money or keep driving it, hope that it eases off. Haven't had a chance to go any serious distance in it yet, but have a 2hr motorway journey at the weekend.Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I would say take the caliper off and push the piston back with a G clamp (take the brake fluid cap off from under the bonnet). Once done, replace and press the brakes a few times to put it back in place then test again. See how that goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 I appreciate the advice, unfortunately you're talking to someone who's never changed so much as a flat tyre in his life (shameful I know). Will have to see if I know someone who could assist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Its been a while since I last did it, but take a large G clamp (I have a 14cm one at home) 1) pop the bonnet and take the brake reservoir cap off, make sure its not filled too high 2) loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up 3) loosen the nuts off and take the wheel off 4) put the G Clamp over the caliper and tighten it - this should force the piston back in - take it easy as you do this, and check regularly to make sure that the fluid reservoir doesnt spill out (about 5 or 6 turns should do it once you have got a good grip of the caliper!) 5) you should now see that the brake pad is a little loose as its not got any pressure on it, if you can wiggle it a little you have done it right. 6) put the wheel back on and put the nuts on loose, lower the car to just above the ground (just in case) 7) start the car in neutral and then pump the brakes repeatedly (do this from outside the car) 8) raise the front end a bit more, take the wheel off and then check for the play in the brake pad, it shouldnt have any play at all. 9) tighten the wheel nuts by hand, lower the car and tighten further Thats it :) pretty easy process really :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 I must be able to do that! Really appreciate the details, if I have a go, I'll report back. Probably about time I started doing some of this basic maintenance and saved myself some money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 you can save yourself a fortune, Ford wanted £80 per hour and quoted two hours labour, I bought a set of PAGID brake pads from Euro car parts £35, a wire coathanger from the closet, and a £4 G clamp from wilkinsons along with a socket / hex key set out the shed, and done within an hour... Most the effort was jacking the car up with the old scissor jack, just investing in a £13.00 bottle jack from Screwfix to speed the process up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wideawakewesley Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 That's definitely a saving worth my effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 exactly, DIY mechanics is not as scary as it seems. Sometimes the phrase is enough to send shivers, but if your good at household DIY then basic mechanics is no worse.I am soon going to be replacing the washer fluid bottle, seems a little daunting, but I am sure that with a bit of patience, the Haynes manual and a hole lot of hope, it wont be too bad... lolMy premise - expect things to go wrong, that way when you do it perfectly, its a much better feeling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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