Mk2 Focus Immobiliser Problem

[Fockus]

Hi, new to the forum but have search and cannot find the exact problem i'm having.

I'v recently bought a mk2 focus 1.8 tdci from my brother. Someone crashed into him around a year ago but he was told the car was fit to drive, so he continued to drive it for around a month. But after a month the turbo went and he decided not to fix it until he found out what was going on with the insurance. Anyway he got paid out the money for the repair and i bought the car from him.

So i fitted a new turbo to the car and fitted a new battery. I went to turn it over after fitting the turbo and it wouldn't turn over. I check for power to the starter when cranking and it wasn't getting any power. I then checked for power to the start relay and that is getting 12v when cranking (the relay is fine) I needed another key anyway as i only had the one, so got a auto locksmith out and asked him to code the keys but still won't turn over. I'v also checked all fuses which were fine.

I'v noticed when you turn the ignition on the immobiliser light stays soilid for a minute, then flashes 2 times, stops and then flashes three times. Which i'v read means its code 23, anyone know what that means?

Any suggestions of what else to check before i get it towed to ford?

Thanks in advance.

[Stoney871]

Code 23 is an immobiliser code mismatch, basically the immobiliser isn't accepting the keys and not deactivating.

I'd suggest that the keys need recoding or the transponder ring around the ignition barrel is defective.

I think you need lo call another locksmith tbh.

[Fockus]

Ok, cheers for that. Is there any way to test the transponder ring? and can it just be replaced or does it need coding?

Also i forgot to mention, when i first fit the turbo. I cranked it with the old battery and charger on. I turned over but very slowly. I left it on charge and when i went back to it the alarm went off. Once the alarm stopped and you turned on the ignition the electric/ dash light started flashing on and off, some relays started clicking in the engine bay and it wouldn't turn over. The lights flashing stopped when i fit the new battery but obviously still wouldn't turn over. Not sure if all thats matters but i thought i'd mention it.

[FOCA]

Other things to watch for -

If the turbo has an electronic actuator, it may have to be coded to the ECU or you may have to use the original actuator (that matches the ECU)

Try not to let the battery go flat and recharge it if nessesary- if the battery is allowed to go flat/ is left flat too often (even a new one) it can F..inish it

Some of these modern Fords have a smart charch electrical system and require a silver-calcium battery

Sounds like immobiliser issues as Stoney has said

[artscot79]

Agree with stoney cide 23 is pats key mismatch either the key code has been lost from memory or ignition rings gone the other issue sounds as if its indeed the wrong battery also you shouldnt leave battery and charger connected when cranking the ecu will detect a low battery and put a lot of volts up to 18v the feedback can blow ecu diodes all fords use smartcharge in fact most cars do just not like fords

[Fockus]

Cheers for the help so far but im still having issues.

I'v spoken to the guy that coded the keys, he says hes done plenty of ford keys and is confident that the keys are coded correctly. He said he could come back out but i'd be charged a £40 call out charge if it turned out not to be a problem with the keys.

So does any one know any way of testing the ignition ring? and if i was to fit a new/second hand one would it need coding?

Also is it only the keys, transponder ring or wiring that could cause the immobiliser issue/code? or is there anything else worth checking?

[Lammers360]

I'm having the same problem cranks over once then won't crank again for a while immboliser won't turn off light flashes on dash really quick once ignition on a then slows Down then goes off again, and nothing still won't start even if you take key out and lock and unlock only done this since it rained and I washed the car, so I'm puzzled as well need some help though 🤔 Does anyone know where the immboliser module is, and also read else where that there is a pats module and a ecu module people are saying check the wire between those two points where are they modules as people don't seem to be shedding any light on it any help would be good 

[Phil21185]

I think on your other thread lammers, @Tdci-Peter has suggested that there could be an instrument cluster failure caused by a dry solder joint. 

He's a good guy who knows his stuff and seeing as both of you appear to have no problem with dismantling your cars, I would be checking that possibility out as it will cost you little but time as opposed to replacing other parts through guesswork.

Good luck! I hope you both get it resolved!

Lol just seen the age of the posts before yours!

The NecroPoster strikes again! Mwahahahahaaaaaaa!😨😨😨

 

[Tdci-Peter]

6 hours ago, Lammers360 said:

Does anyone know where the immboliser module is,

There isn't one. It is rather distributed, it makes it more secure that way.

The basic function is in the ECU (aka PCM), as this has total control of the engine: injectors, fuel pump and starter motor. So it is no use hot-wiring the starter.

The PATS sensor is a little coil unit wrapped around the ignition key barrel. It is quite easy to get at once the plastic steering column covers are released. Connector or other failures here are possible but rare.

This sensor is wired direct to the nearby Instrument Cluster (IC). The IC then communicates with the PCM over the HS-CAN bus to authenticate a valid key being present. The actual key codes are, I believe, stored in both the IC and the PCM, in some encoded way. Thus both electronic modules would have to be swapped out to use another key to steal the car.

There are PATS codes. If you have a PATS (immobiliser) LED, then after an attempt to turn the ignition on, it will flash steadily for a while, then change to flash out a PATS code. This can tell you if it is a key problem, a sensor problem, or a CAN bus problem. Code 16 means CAN bus. Google PATS codes, or see:

If you have a display, the code may appear on that.

" the wire between those two points " will most likely be the HS CAN bus, which is actually a twisted pair of wires.

 

[Lammers360]

Hi I've got a flash code of 16, 

[immobilised@75]

I'm having exactly the same problem with my, 2006, 1.8 TDCi (Code 1- 6) and having tested all the relays are ok in the under-bonnet fuse box, likewise the one in the Body control Module (passenger side fusebox) I am at a loss. 

I have located a fairly heavy duty (1 1/2" x 2") relay dangling well below the nearside headlight and will test that later.

I've also downloaded the free ForScan software and should be receiving  an ELM327 to USB thingamijig later today, whence I will begin probing in earnest.

The idea that an anti theft device could cause this much mayhem, and danger (it cut out on a bend in the road) leaves me wondering about the mindset of the designers. (If a thief came up to my car now, I'd help em hitch it up and happily wave it bye bye.....)

 

I'll keep you posted on my progress- if  I do make progress

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, immobilised@75 said:

I've also downloaded the free ForScan software and should be receiving  an ELM327 to USB thingamijig later today, whence I will begin probing in earnest.

The most common fault on the 2006 Focus is the solder connections at the back of the Instrument Cluster (IC). The two CAN buses used on this car meet here, and failures on these buses, especially the HS-CAN, can cause massive problems. The HS-CAN goes to the ECU (aka PCM), it carries vehicle speed, steering control signals, RPM, PATS (immobiliser) and lots of other stuff.

Both CAN buses can be tested for overall continuity from the diagnostic connector (DLC), there should be 60ohms +/- about 1 ohm, between the two wires of a CAN bus while it is not powered up. The HS-CAN is pins 6-14, and MS-CAN is pins 3-11 on the DLC.

It will not be the immobiliser directly that caused it to cut out on a bend, it is designed to never come on while running. But a CAN bus failure is so significant that multiple failures can happen, software is stressed beyond its limits, and engine power loss or even steering glitches are possible. That is a huge weakness of the whole CAN bus system, which as a digital electronics designer, I think was a horrible and weak system to choose. But the entire automotive industry thought otherwise!

For a bit more about my IC problem & fix: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

There are also three connectors in the HS-CAN bus, one in the engine bay fuse box, and two low down in front of the passenger door, under the side trim panels. These can give problems.

[immobilised@75]

Wow!.

Thanks for that Peter, it gives me something positive (sorry about that) to investigate.

 

I did used to work in an electronics design department during the 'Stone age'. (Although I confess to feeling a bit of a fraud with my limited knowledge ( I could spell discrete, integrated circuits (74 & 4000 series) and zener, but that was close to my limit)). I even taught 'Microprocessors' at Telford college just after the ice age...... But modern car circuitry combined with Sensors leave my wallowing.... ( I did look the word 'sensors' up and it said "a device designed to theoretically sense a fault, but which- in reality creates 90% of the faults by failing)

 

Again Peter, many thanks.

I'll now look up removing the instrument cluster, which i believe can be a bit tricky.  (nowt that a lump hammer couldn't sort)

Oops, I've just read and printed off the excellent treatise that you pointed me at re removing the instrument cluster (without resorting to the sacred lump hammer....)

Triple thanks Peter.

 

 

[immobilised@75]

Very much on the off chance that this, 2005 Mk2 Focus, under bonnet fuse box diagram that I found and modified might be of some use- here it is. 

 

Doc2 - Copy.pdf

[immobilised@75]

Well here are some pages of my 1st forscan diagnostic attempt. 

 

Is it suggested that the top faults are the most likely problem?

(Mind, it does say that "modules should not be replaced based only on a 'U' code-  which suggests that I should start with the PCM P1260- 61 DTC (8th fault down)- meaning I'll have to go back out and dig a little deeper.... er, tomorrow)

Does that sound sensible? (something I'm not normally associated with) Or am I talking out of my nether region?

 

Regards and thanks for all your help.

 

Dave.

 

 

[nazsky786]

Just to check so you have 2 keys at least programmed to the car.  

With both keys you get 23 flash code? 

Check all fuses in the engine bay and passenger foot well.

To check if it's the cluster you can wd40 the multiple connector and see if it works.  Board side not the actual grey connector.  If no fix clean the wd40 off as it not the issue.

Also check you installed the battery correctly and if the ecu side on the battery box it that is connected correctly.. 

[nazsky786]

Issue is cluster to ecu,  car will still start and run with just them 2 modules.  

[Tdci-Peter]

22 hours ago, immobilised@75 said:

Well here are some pages of my 1st forscan diagnostic attempt.

Here is the result of my 1st forscan diagnostic attempt:

(WARN) [16:35:17.428] Checking COM1...
(OK) [16:35:17.728] Connection to adapter has been established on COM1
(OK) [16:35:17.728] Adapter:  ELM327 v1.5
(OK) [16:35:17.888] Connection to vehicle has been established
(OK) [16:35:45.448] Vehicle: Ford Focus Duratorq-Turbo Diesel Common Rail Injection 1.8L 2006 ( 2003.25 MY ), VIN: WF0*********71950
(OK) [16:35:46.279] Found module:  PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(WARN) [16:35:48.622] DTCs in PCM: U0073-E1, U2197-61, P0571-61, P1260-61, U0121-E1, U0140-E1, U0001-E1, U0155-F1, U0131-F1
(OK) [16:35:48.653] Found module:  OBDII - On Board Diagnostic II
(WARN) [16:35:49.283] DTCs in OBDII: U0073-P, U0121-P, U0140-P
(OK) [16:35:49.574] Found module:  ABS - Anti-Lock Brake / Traction Control Module
(WARN) [16:35:49.894] DTCs in ABS: C1306-A0, U2012-A0, U2202-A0, U1900-A0, U2023-E0
(OK) [16:35:50.746] Found module:  EPS - Electronic-Controlled Power Steering
(WARN) [16:35:50.996] DTCs in EPS: U0073-20, U1900-60
(OK) [16:35:51.296] Found module:  IC - Instrument Cluster
(WARN) [16:35:51.627] DTCs in IC: U1900-20, U2510-20, U2200-60, C1750-20, U2197-60, U1147-60

That in was in 2016 and due to the classic bad connector solder on the IC problem in my pdf. It looks remarkably similar to your list.

[immobilised@75]

I see what you are saying Peter and my next port of call was to be the Instrument Cluster (early next week), however the Focus is one step ahead of me and has now locked me out totally.

Foolishly I opened the remote fob and found the 'unlock' button even more remote than the fob.... Which might account for the difficulty we have had opening the car over the years.

 

Using dexterity, skill and a bit of solder, I carefully resoldered it back into position and lo..... The remote no longer works at all.

 

When I insert the key and turn it counter clockwise the car emits lots of clunky whirry sounds.... and it is soundly locked.

When I insert the key and turn it clockwise more clunky sounds are emitted and.... I can't get in.

Obviously my car has gone into Ford's little known 'don't ever think of trying to get into me again' mode.

 

I tried gaining access with my non-remote key, which has worked as a basic form of access and drive- in the past, to no avail.

 

I have been totally rejected by the heap of automotive junk that is now taking up space on my drive.

 

At age 75, I'm not sure I have enough years on this mortal coil, or will power, to see this issue through.

Ford 1- Dave 0. 

 

[Tdci-Peter]

On 1/12/2019 at 6:50 PM, immobilised@75 said:

When I insert the key and turn it counter clockwise the car emits lots of clunky whirry sounds.... and it is soundly locked.

When I insert the key and turn it clockwise more clunky sounds are emitted and.... I can't get in.

Obviously my car has gone into Ford's little known 'don't ever think of trying to get into me again' mode.

 

I tried gaining access with my non-remote key, which has worked as a basic form of access and drive- in the past, to no avail.

 

I have been totally rejected by the heap of automotive junk that is now taking up space on my drive.

 

At age 75, I'm not sure I have enough years on this mortal coil, or will power, to see this issue through.

I am sad to hear that, I know the feeling though, when one thing goes wrong, another just comes along to knock you flat!

There is very little in common between the central locking and the immobiliser. Different parts of the key, different modules in the car, different functions. Central locking is controlled by the BCM / GEM, not by the IC.

I thought the driver's door lock had a purely mechanical over-ride, so you can unlock the door even with a flat battery. If so, then there will be a mechanical fault in the driver's door. It might be worth getting an assistant to try to open the passenger door just as you unlock the driver's door, and get the clunks. I guess all the locks are unlocking, then re-locking when it detects the driver's door remains locked.Then see if the driver's door can be unlocked from the inside.

[FatHead1979]

11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I am sad to hear that, I know the feeling though, when one thing goes wrong, another just comes along to knock you flat!

There is very little in common between the central locking and the immobiliser. Different parts of the key, different modules in the car, different functions. Central locking is controlled by the BCM / GEM, not by the IC.

I thought the driver's door lock had a purely mechanical over-ride, so you can unlock the door even with a flat battery. If so, then there will be a mechanical fault in the driver's door. It might be worth getting an assistant to try to open the passenger door just as you unlock the driver's door, and get the clunks. I guess all the locks are unlocking, then re-locking when it detects the driver's door remains locked.Then see if the driver's door can be unlocked from the inside.

I also understood/thought that the driver's side door on the MK2 had a purely mechanical override when the key is used in the door lock.

(I've succesfully unlocked mine before using the key with no battery attached to the car)

[immobilised@75]

You are both correct..... I returned from a couple of days away, having disconnected the battery prior to leaving. 

When i got back the key worked- in a purely mechanical way and I could get into the car ok.

I reconnected the battery and the alarm went off.... So I disconnected it again.

 

I'm hoping to fix the key problem with a soldering iron, then remove the instrument panel (IC) to see what that might reveal. (Haynes suggests that the instrument must be kept upright to avoid leakage..... Is that correct do you know?

 

Also, what is the best (cheapest) option for getting two replacement keys?

 

I hope you don't mind my never ending questions....

 

Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Dave.

.

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, immobilised@75 said:

then remove the instrument panel (IC) to see what that might reveal. (Haynes suggests that the instrument must be kept upright to avoid leakage..... Is that correct do you know?

There is absolutely nothing that can leak in a Mk2 Focus IC that I have seen .

Getting it out needs care and patience. It is easy to crack the clear cover, and this is not available as a spare. Slowly ease the top out with old credit cards or flat bladed knives to locate and help free the lugs that dig in to the fascia. Quite a lot of force can be applied to the fascia itself, to bend it upwards, but try not to lever hard against the IC while doing so.

Once the top is free, it comes out easily, and I have dealt with the needles in my pdf. I was able to see visible cracking around the solder joints on the connector once the plastic covers had been removed.

For new keys, the remote control part is trivial, the car manual covers programming that. The blades are not quite so easy, a possible good way is to find a supplier who can cut them from a good photo. There are a limited number of codes, which can be read visually from the shape by an expert. Many locksmiths will only cut their own blades.

The PATS system is hardest. For the computer literate, Forscan can add new keys to the car, but it is not an entirely straightforward procedure. Some locksmiths and eBay sellers can clone an existing PATS chip, if they have the key. This is not quite as good as adding a new key to the car, but if you have two proper (non-clone) keys already, then it is not a problem. Or if you have a damaged key, it may be possible to locate the little PATS capsule inside it (not connected to the remote control pcb), and transfer it.

BTW, if the battery was removed from your existing remote control key for some time, they have been know to forget their codes, but will work again if re-programmed to the car using the manual procedure, which I can post here if wanted.

BTW2: Inserting a key and turning on the ignition should silence the alarm. It will always sound if the car is unlocked manually.

 

 

[immobilised@75]

Thanks for that Peter, you've given me lots to look at- particularly easing out the IC.

Re the alarm going off I did put the key in the ignition and turned it on and off a few times, but the alarm just carried on screaming for help.....(stupid thing)

I have two key blades, one with the remote buttons and one without, that both used to open the doors and would start the car ok. 

 

It wouldn't bother me if I had to open the door and start the engine without using the remote process, but I would have a problem with the boot which remains locked and could only be opened with the remote button. (or dropping the seats down and climbing in, which SWMBO might find a tad inconvenient when loading her weekly shopping)

 

Again Peter, many thanks,

Dave.

[Tdci-Peter]

13 hours ago, immobilised@75 said:

Re the alarm going off I did put the key in the ignition and turned it on and off a few times, but the alarm just carried on screaming for help.....(stupid thing)

That is interesting! At least for me, probably just a pain in the whatsit for you!

I had sometimes wondered if there is a link here between PATS and the central locking / alarm. It looks like there is. It may need a valid, PATS registered key to silence the alarm, and possibly to enable the remote control programming procedure, which involves turning a key in the ignition. If so in a car where PATS is not functioning due to a CAN bus problem, you will not be able to silence the alarm or programme remote controls, as the key can not be recognised as valid, even though it still turns the ignition power on & off.

In most instance, PATS and central locking (including alarm) are totally separate functions, but these two events combining the ignition barrel with the central locking are the exceptions.

The only way I can see to silence the alarm while enabling the ECU & IC to be powered up to use Forscan to test & reset PATS, is to remove F3 in the engine bay fuse box. This is one of the big, bolt down fuses, and should power down the entire BCM (passenger fusebox). I am not sure where the alarm horn is, it is shown as being separate from the normal steering wheel operated horn.

It is possible that F4 has to be removed also, thought the drawing only shows F3 for central locking / alarm purposes.