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Fockus

Mk2 Focus Immobiliser Problem

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Hi, new to the forum but have search and cannot find the exact problem i'm having.

I'v recently bought a mk2 focus 1.8 tdci from my brother. Someone crashed into him around a year ago but he was told the car was fit to drive, so he continued to drive it for around a month. But after a month the turbo went and he decided not to fix it until he found out what was going on with the insurance. Anyway he got paid out the money for the repair and i bought the car from him.

So i fitted a new turbo to the car and fitted a new battery. I went to turn it over after fitting the turbo and it wouldn't turn over. I check for power to the starter when cranking and it wasn't getting any power. I then checked for power to the start relay and that is getting 12v when cranking (the relay is fine) I needed another key anyway as i only had the one, so got a auto locksmith out and asked him to code the keys but still won't turn over. I'v also checked all fuses which were fine.

I'v noticed when you turn the ignition on the immobiliser light stays soilid for a minute, then flashes 2 times, stops and then flashes three times. Which i'v read means its code 23, anyone know what that means?

Any suggestions of what else to check before i get it towed to ford?

Thanks in advance.

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Code 23 is an immobiliser code mismatch, basically the immobiliser isn't accepting the keys and not deactivating.

I'd suggest that the keys need recoding or the transponder ring around the ignition barrel is defective.

I think you need lo call another locksmith tbh.

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Ok, cheers for that. Is there any way to test the transponder ring? and can it just be replaced or does it need coding?

Also i forgot to mention, when i first fit the turbo. I cranked it with the old battery and charger on. I turned over but very slowly. I left it on charge and when i went back to it the alarm went off. Once the alarm stopped and you turned on the ignition the electric/ dash light started flashing on and off, some relays started clicking in the engine bay and it wouldn't turn over. The lights flashing stopped when i fit the new battery but obviously still wouldn't turn over. Not sure if all thats matters but i thought i'd mention it.

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Other things to watch for -

If the turbo has an electronic actuator, it may have to be coded to the ECU or you may have to use the original actuator (that matches the ECU)

Try not to let the battery go flat and recharge it if nessesary- if the battery is allowed to go flat/ is left flat too often (even a new one) it can F..inish it

Some of these modern Fords have a smart charch electrical system and require a silver-calcium battery

Sounds like immobiliser issues as Stoney has said

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Agree with stoney cide 23 is pats key mismatch either the key code has been lost from memory or ignition rings gone the other issue sounds as if its indeed the wrong battery also you shouldnt leave battery and charger connected when cranking the ecu will detect a low battery and put a lot of volts up to 18v the feedback can blow ecu diodes all fords use smartcharge in fact most cars do just not like fords

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Cheers for the help so far but im still having issues.

I'v spoken to the guy that coded the keys, he says hes done plenty of ford keys and is confident that the keys are coded correctly. He said he could come back out but i'd be charged a £40 call out charge if it turned out not to be a problem with the keys.

So does any one know any way of testing the ignition ring? and if i was to fit a new/second hand one would it need coding?

Also is it only the keys, transponder ring or wiring that could cause the immobiliser issue/code? or is there anything else worth checking?

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I'm having the same problem cranks over once then won't crank again for a while immboliser won't turn off light flashes on dash really quick once ignition on a then slows Down then goes off again, and nothing still won't start even if you take key out and lock and unlock only done this since it rained and I washed the car, so I'm puzzled as well need some help though 🤔 Does anyone know where the immboliser module is, and also read else where that there is a pats module and a ecu module people are saying check the wire between those two points where are they modules as people don't seem to be shedding any light on it any help would be good 

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I think on your other thread lammers, @Tdci-Peter has suggested that there could be an instrument cluster failure caused by a dry solder joint. 

He's a good guy who knows his stuff and seeing as both of you appear to have no problem with dismantling your cars, I would be checking that possibility out as it will cost you little but time as opposed to replacing other parts through guesswork.

Good luck! I hope you both get it resolved!

Lol just seen the age of the posts before yours!

The NecroPoster strikes again! Mwahahahahaaaaaaa!😨😨😨

 

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6 hours ago, Lammers360 said:

Does anyone know where the immboliser module is,

There isn't one. It is rather distributed, it makes it more secure that way.

The basic function is in the ECU (aka PCM), as this has total control of the engine: injectors, fuel pump and starter motor. So it is no use hot-wiring the starter.

The PATS sensor is a little coil unit wrapped around the ignition key barrel. It is quite easy to get at once the plastic steering column covers are released. Connector or other failures here are possible but rare.

This sensor is wired direct to the nearby Instrument Cluster (IC). The IC then communicates with the PCM over the HS-CAN bus to authenticate a valid key being present. The actual key codes are, I believe, stored in both the IC and the PCM, in some encoded way. Thus both electronic modules would have to be swapped out to use another key to steal the car.

There are PATS codes. If you have a PATS (immobiliser) LED, then after an attempt to turn the ignition on, it will flash steadily for a while, then change to flash out a PATS code. This can tell you if it is a key problem, a sensor problem, or a CAN bus problem. Code 16 means CAN bus. Google PATS codes, or see:

If you have a display, the code may appear on that.

" the wire between those two points " will most likely be the HS CAN bus, which is actually a twisted pair of wires.

 

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