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Lenny

"taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

1,426 posts in this topic

Sorry Lenny :(

:p

Not going for the USB port on the heated screen panel?

No prob,

I got out of wrong side of the bed this morning and work are really doing my head in over my chronic back condition i apologize for venting off a bit at you guys.

Glad its friday get two days to relax and clear my head a bit.

]KGrHqZHJ4E-cubwHBPqSrgEJqQ60_35-1_zpskfa

They are a nice idea but i dont like having wires running around the dash i like to have everything tooked away and tidy,

The stereo is iPod and Android app compatable allowing full control via headunit so no need to have devices visible,

They can remain hidden at all times within the armrest.

Lenny, if you fancy 'disposing' of your 12V Socket out of the armrest console (what with your straight swap to a USB port an' all), I am still looking at installing one in my boot. ;) :D

Bagsies if its going. :P

Sounds good to me mate,

I'll remove the centre arm rest socket tomorrow morning and despatch to you for 7 pounds to cover shipping and envelope,

Alternatively there available from ford for 10.59 shipped.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FORD-GENUINE-12V-Auxiliary-Additional-Power-Socket-MONDEO-FOCUS-C-MAX-KUGA-/161049412044?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AFord&hash=item257f4b01cc

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Before I comit Lenny I need to source me one of those circular blade/hole cutting wotminots. I have one from doing parking sensors but its on 21mm. Im guessing I need something bigger as usually the internal barrel size is already 22mm (although, without the socket and its size, I cant know. Hmmmm. Any ideas?).

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Before I comit Lenny I need to source me one of those circular blade/hole cutting wotminots. I have one from doing parking sensors but its on 21mm. Im guessing I need something bigger as usually the internal barrel size is already 22mm (although, without the socket and its size, I cant know. Hmmmm).

Not sure regarding the size mate i never purchased the whole-saw to drill mine i got inpatient and used the Dremil boreing out the size can afford to be a little untidy with it because the flange of the socket covers any imperfections,

Im in no hurry to get rid of it anyways i was thinking of yourself when offering to despatch as quickly as possible i assumed you were in a hurry to recieve,

You will also need a non insulated female spade crimp connector, 12" of 15amp cable and a ring terminal to earth the socket as saw in the guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/29774-guide-additional-12v-power-socket-in-boot-focus-mk25/

AutoStar is a great uk supplier of automotive cables to purchase the crimps and cable see link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/autostar*?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Or

See my eBay listing which has an earth feed with ring terminal attached you would just need a non insulated female spade connector to slide in to the existing orange plug in your car which contains the positive feed.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171491081930?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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Dunno why I didn't get any updates on this feed for a few days and had to catch up on my reading.

The speaker wire will come in handy and the extra you could always sell it like you said. The rest of the parts that will become redundant you might as well sell it to recoup some money. Those adaptors that you linked in look very slick and should make the whole setup more user friendly. I like how you are keeping everything in the armrest console. I was lazy with doing mine and just have the wires running out from the right lower corner of the main fascia. It kinda looks untidy but it's functional. I reckon with your plan, the whole thing will just look neat.

Do you have an iPod btw that you plan on having music on? The Pioneer headunit will work brilliantly with it and you will be able to browse all your music stored on it while the iPod sits nicely in the armrest. I also have to say how good of a unit that Pioneer is in playing music. The amount of ports at the back will make it very versatile. Good value for money I think.

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Dunno why I didn't get any updates on this feed for a few days and had to catch up on my reading.

The speaker wire will come in handy and the extra you could always sell it like you said. The rest of the parts that will become redundant you might as well sell it to recoup some money. Those adaptors that you linked in look very slick and should make the whole setup more user friendly. I like how you are keeping everything in the armrest console. I was lazy with doing mine and just have the wires running out from the right lower corner of the main fascia. It kinda looks untidy but it's functional. I reckon with your plan, the whole thing will just look neat.

Thanks mate,

I've accidently unsubscribed myself from various threads before, however it automatically subscribes again when you submit a post,

I'm very OCD when it comes to cables mate, as you can see with all the mods i like to keep everything as OEM looking as possible,

In my opinion no function should be lost when performing an upgrade,

so with that in mind it makes sense to change the OEM glovebox AUX port for aftermarket unit that continues to function retaining the stock function as part of the upgrade, even though ill mainly be operating through the one in the centre console.

Voice control is however being sacrificed in the process of upgrading, as result I've changed the steering stalk control for one from a Mk2 which doesn't have the voice button on the stalk,

I've listed the voice stalk on eBay for those upgrading to the OEM Bluetooth voice control module better those to have it and use it,

Overall any buttons or sockets saw inside the car are purposeful and functional which keeps my inner self calm lol

Do you have an iPod btw that you plan on having music on? The Pioneer headunit will work brilliantly with it and you will be able to browse all your music stored on it while the iPod sits nicely in the armrest. I also have to say how good of a unit that Pioneer is in playing music. The amount of ports at the back will make it very versatile. Good value for money I think.

i don't have an iPod mate i always was more in favour of Creative Zen and Android phones which communicated directly with windows media player rather than having to install iTunes software which mirrors all your WMA files to iTunes format instantly doubling the consumption of space on the computers hard drive :rolleyes:

But i suppose if you used iTunes from day one then you wont have a problem with windows media files,

Vicki has an iPhone 4S that i purchased for her two months ago,

I've noticed she's got quite a bit of music on it now,

Cant see myself moving to the isheep clan though i think there way over priced and too main stream for me.

I'll most likely plug in an 8GB memory stick with all my WMA files on it,

However i do plan to purchase the pioneer CA IW.201s cable for the iPhone which will allow Victoria full control of her iPhone using the head unit while keeping the phone hidden inside the armrest i believe it mirrors the screen of the iPhone.

ca-iw.201s_detailpage_zpsb87ypj8_edit_14

I understand it uses the USB port at the rear of the stereo aswell as the (pioneer specific) media port to connect.

I had considered fitting a short length Y splitter to feed both iPhone cable and USB socket in the armrest,

But my fear is both could be connected to the stereo at the same time which would cause some virtual headache.

Best option i think is:

Run the supplied USB socket to the glovebox,

Run both USB plugs to the glove box aswell,

Then plug in either iPhone or USB socket as required to avoid both being connected at the same time which would be likely to happen.

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When the sub enclosure is purchased i can commence creating the panel for mounting amps,

I need to find out the size of the gap between the custom sub enclosure and the back seat see between the two red arrows:

IMAG1914_zps2lo70lk_edit_1413102052032_z

Once i know the size say for example its 30mm between sub box and back seat,

Ill purchase a sheet of MDF at 15mm

Then cut a strip of MDF:

14" tall by 2" wide

Stick it to the back side of the sheet making it 30mm

Do this on both sides of the sheet thus creating a 150mm cavity between the MDF sheet and rear seat.

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

Plan is:

Mount the amplifier's on to the sheet of MDF nut&bolt through the sheet,

Fish all cables inside the cavity,

Terminated with vibe FastPlug.

Drill holes in relevant corresponding locations where the amp needs a cable,

So there's no cables visible, just 90 degree elbows of cable coming through the MDF in to the amplifier.

Drill a further series of small holes in the MDF sheet to allow sound travel through it aswell as making it lighter.

Once drilled and all marked out,

Remove amplifier's and coat the sheet of MDF with matching carpet using a spray can of fabric glue and carpet.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350424824613?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

For a seamless finish,

That's the plan in theory anyway.

Since i want my system to be easily removable in the event of needing to fold down the rear seat:

The custom sub enclosure will be a permanent staying in the car fixture even with the back seat folded down so it seems a shame to have to remove its mono amplifier in such events.

Considering the mono amp is smaller than the 4 channel,

I have the idea of fitting it upside down on the boot panel just like Mr.Spock but using nut&bolt with 15mm sized washers inside the panel to expand the grip surface it will never tare out of the plastic panel,

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

If it fits in this location it can remain permanent in the car along with the custom sub enclosure,

So it is only the 4 channel amplifier that requires mounting to a carpeted MDF platform at rear of seats.

Now there's a few possible errors may occur in the theory we can easily overcome should they arise,

If there is only 15mm or less of a gap between the sub enclosure and the rear seat.

We can measure the gap between the rear seat and boot walls when closed,

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

Whatever size that happens to be,

Can get some MDF to fit the size for gripping purposes,

Then step it out creating a bigger cavity where it enters the boot space end result will be the same,

Another option it to create a half rear seat cavity same method using MDF and stepping it out to create a cavity for cables,

However securing it to the rear of the seat using 4 reward facing bolts with butterfly nuts,

Bolts facing toward the boot fixed permanent with a locking nut inside the cavity,

On goes the MDF panel then secured with butterfly nuts,

Would be lighter option same result.

IMG_8508web_zpshflwxoj_edit_141310912813

Finally removal,

Well its too far to reach in and remove it from the boot door,

Removal will be easier to open the rear doors,

Fold down the seats to reveal the cavity where the Vibe FastPlug can be disconnected and lift out the panel through the back door.

Shouldn't cost more than 50 euro for the carpet, glue, MDF and fixings, results would appear very OEM but still easily removable in under 3 minutes.

Looking forward to doing the MDF part, i love woodwork and custom creation very therapeutic indeed.

Can even style it up with a shiny vent mainly used for custom computer towers.

fangrills_zpsfhsjufsj.jpg

Even some led's inseted behind the grill and spliced in to the boot light feed so they would illuminate only when boot door is open,

Again just putting the ideas out there in the event others may be interested.

Led's and grill wouldn't be my cuppa but still possible and allow more sound flow.

This guy has a CNC machine set up to laser cut brushed stainless steel in various designs,

Ive purchased a focus glovebox strip from him before top quality,

He's a nice guy too open to accepting custom ideas will work with you on ideas,

Maybe an option for anyone seeking a custom laser cut design to create a vent on an enclosure or amp support panel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/alanos350z

Example of his work:

zestawfocus-1.jpg

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Hiya Lenny.



I had to read this out a few times before getting my head round it. I am slow. Apologies lol.



I have had a couple of thoughts as well for your install:



1. Any particular reason that you want the amp to be removable? You mentioned that you wanted it for the bootspace when you flatten the seats. But, I reckon that your 2 amps might be able to be mounted upside down, like in Mr_Spock's build neatly underside where you were thinking for the mono amp. that way, all cables are neatly routed to it and you can still access it for tweaking the parameters if needed. I am asking this as you mentioned the sub enclosure will be permanently in the car. The JL Audio website should have the dimensions of both amplifiers if you want to measure that space in the car to see if it will fit.



2.One other option that we have not considered is that, with the 4 channel amplifier, it doesn't need to be close to the subwoofer. You could have it mounted inside the cabin if you wanted. e.g Under the front seats or even where you used to have your spare tyre. You could have a very tidy install of the 2 amps in the tyre well with all the cables out of sight. It would have the advantage of keeping all your boot space nearly as the enclosure take a very small amount of it


The reason I am thinking of alternatives is that, the amplifier will get hot with prolonged use and you need good airflow to it to keep it functioning well. With your idea of the mounting position, if I gather correctly, will be enclosed or not? Just my thoughts about it as I reckon it might be a pain to get it in and out when you need the bootspace with the kids etc.



Your plan will definitely not cost much and will be a fun project to do at the same time. You have thought it through with the weight etc as well. Thankfully the sub enclosure isn't that heavy. It was lighter than my old 10" sub with its box! I think it's well worth the money.



With regards to the custom cut pieces, I reckon they would look very nice when illuminated. Would definitely be the icing on top of the cake then. If you are going down that route, also consider making it in fiberglass and painting it as that would be even better for the amp rack :)


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If going for a full width back seat sheet it will be:

15cm deep MDF

IMG_20141012_182723_zpsuetkwwoo.jpg

IMG_20141012_182739_zpsjrvjhffj.jpg

49cm tall before it meets the back seat fixing brackets,

IMG_20141012_183635_zps8hjmoqo_edit_1413

The depth the sheet can go into between boot wall and back of seat before it touches the body is 5cm

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

To span across the full boot space it needs to be 104cm wide.

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

I've contacted Hassen via PM,

He's going to get back to me in the coming days to let me know the measurement between sub enclosure and the back seat,

Im hoping its at least 15cm

I also need to know the width from plastic door panel to the tip of the sub enclosure,

How wide is that area,

IMG_20141012_094926_zpsdoxq74z_edit_1413

Plan is now to purchase a sheet of 15cm deep MDF ideally 150cm by 49cm

That gives me a section 46cm x 49cm

I can then make two strips

23cm wide

49cm tall

To slide in between the seat and boot compartment walls with plenty of excess surface,

Plan is to screw the bigger sheet measuring 104cm x 49cm to these two slips that are wedged between the rear seat and boot walls,

Giving me a cavity depth of 15cm to run cables inside,

Plenty of mounting space for the amplifier's mount them on the sheet then drill holes where cables are required.

Run cable through hole so minimal amount of cable is visible.

Looking forward to seeing this happen,

I think the sub enclosure will be next item to come off the shopping list in order to give me 100% scope on the MDF sheet install.

IMG_20141012_193323_zpsfamsigq_edit_1413

Removed the additional boot light and loom today, sad to see my second ever modification on the car being removed, but its no use anymore since a custom sub enclosure will be consuming the space.

Now listed on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-fiesta-escort-focus-ka-mondeo-boot-footwell-light-/171498780846?

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Hiya Lenny.

I had to read this out a few times before getting my head round it. I am slow. Apologies lol.

I have had a couple of thoughts as well for your install:

1. Any particular reason that you want the amp to be removable? You mentioned that you wanted it for the boot space when you flatten the seats. But, I reckon that your 2 amps might be able to be mounted upside down, like in Mr_Spock's build neatly underside where you were thinking for the mono amp. that way, all cables are neatly routed to it and you can still access it for tweaking the parameters if needed. I am asking this as you mentioned the sub enclosure will be permanently in the car. The JL Audio website should have the dimensions of both amplifiers if you want to measure that space in the car to see if it will fit.

Sorry I'm really missing a laptop rite now to enable me draw an image of what i mean, very difficult to describe this sort of thing in words,

The mono amp for the sub will fit under the drivers side boot panel nice idea,

Means it can stay permanently in place,

However the two amps wont fit under the same side,

Mr.Spock has one fitted under each side, and the custom enclosure will be consuming the space on passenger side,

So ill mount the 4 channel to an MDF panel behind the rear seat.

Basically if folding down the seats i could be carrying anything even a lawnmower I've never yet but should it need transporting,

Id plastic line the boot with a plastic sheet but the amp would be at risk of getting scratched if permanently mounted to the rear of the seat.

So to best guard agenst all possibly i need it to be removable away from potential harm.

2.One other option that we have not considered is that, with the 4 channel amplifier, it doesn't need to be close to the subwoofer. You could have it mounted inside the cabin if you wanted. e.g Under the front seats or even where you used to have your spare tyre. You could have a very tidy install of the 2 amps in the tyre well with all the cables out of sight. It would have the advantage of keeping all your boot space nearly as the enclosure take a very small amount of it

The reason I am thinking of alternatives is that, the amplifier will get hot with prolonged use and you need good airflow to it to keep it functioning well. With your idea of the mounting position, if I gather correctly, will be enclosed or not? Just my thoughts about it as I reckon it might be a pain to get it in and out when you need the boot space with the kids etc.

There's no level space under the front seats,

The rear heater vents, footwell lighting aswell as the factory chassis support beam it wouldn't fit mate,

My plan is to surface mount the amp, same way you mounted yours in the boot,

Except mine will be mounted to an elevated sheet of MDF,

Still vertical position like yours but the cables go in behind the mdf to a 15cm cavity,

*****this Photoshop was added laterbin thread so i edited this section to insert helps display plan*****

IMG_20141014_154458_zpshcuj4drm.jpg

Your plan will definitely not cost much and will be a fun project to do at the same time. You have thought it through with the weight etc as well. Thankfully the sub enclosure isn't that heavy. It was lighter than my old 10" sub with its box! I think it's well worth the money.

With regards to the custom cut pieces, I reckon they would look very nice when illuminated. Would definitely be the icing on top of the cake then. If you are going down that route, also consider making it in fiberglass and painting it as that would be even better for the amp rack :)

Thanks mate,

Ive no plans for fitting any laser cut parts or vents personally i was just putting some links and ideas out there for others whom may be interested,

Fibreglass can work out very well but its not really the style I'm after plus i don't have the enclosed space such as a garage to work with the stuff and leave it to dry etc.

Then risk of splitting it with too much bass :lol:

Nice idea but nah the MDF and carpet is good enough for me.

Cheers as always i appreciate your input mate.

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Cool. I get what you mean now and it makes sense. That way you protect the amp and it is a neat install.

Tomorrow after work, I will measure the space behind the enclosure and also measure and take some pictures of the screws that I will send over for mounting the amps. Most probably tomorrow night I will post it all up :)

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Cool. I get what you mean now and it makes sense. That way you protect the amp and it is a neat install.

Tomorrow after work, I will measure the space behind the enclosure and also measure and take some pictures of the screws that I will send over for mounting the amps. Most probably tomorrow night I will post it all up :)

No prob thanks mate.

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Lenny, just wondering if you could help me with something as you seem to have done a lot of lighting mods!

When Im measuring Festoon Bulbs, where do I measure from? The glass? Or the end of the contacts?

Sorry for the off topic

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Lenny, just wondering if you could help me with something as you seem to have done a lot of lighting mods!

When Im measuring Festoon Bulbs, where do I measure from? The glass? Or the end of the contacts?

Sorry for the off topic

Hi Kieran,

As far as i can remember its tip to tip mate,

Ive not bought a florencent stle festoon since 2006 when i had a Toyota Starlet,

Back then the measurements were tip to tip,

Alltronix.co.uk is a great reliable supplier maybe worth a browse, perticurally for cree reverse bulbs 6000k white

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Okay cheers! I'm converting all my interior bulbs to LEDs, Also added a second boot light (got the idea from your guide!) and an LED strip in the boot too..

My roof light seems to glow slightly.. And I've tried lots of different resistors and it either reduces the light too much or it still glows.. Have you experienced this? I'm guessing it's to do with the difference in resistance?

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Okay cheers! I'm converting all my interior bulbs to LEDs, Also added a second boot light (got the idea from your guide!) and an LED strip in the boot too..

My roof light seems to glow slightly.. And I've tried lots of different resistors and it either reduces the light too much or it still glows.. Have you experienced this? I'm guessing it's to do with the difference in resistance?

Ive kept the main interior light stock for this reason mate,

They absorb less power so it takes them forever to consume the power left in the lines after the car is locked etc.

They wont flatten your battery but they wont go off immediately neither,

See my profile page for list of guides,

Try fitting some rear footwell lighting aswell as an illuminated ignition ring light,

They will look good aswell as help absorb the excess power after closimg door or locking the car,

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Ah right! Okay.. That's a shame.. Really liked the cool white interior lighting!

Thanks for the answers!

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Update:

While having my lunch break in work there was a lidl brochure on the table so i had a quick browse through it and spotted they had some magnetic trays of offer today for less than 3 euro per pack in various sizes,

Those of you whom followed my guides will know that i always use a coke bottle to store all nuts and bolts when taking things apart,

Stage5.jpg

As result i had to stop by the nearest lidl store on the way home from work and pick up some of these very useful trays.

The magnets inside are surprisingly strong and the trays themselves are Stainless steel.

IMG_20141013_154336_zpslank75w_edit_1413

When i got home from work then there was a small parcel at the door,

IMG_20141013_154312_zps9itufqx_edit_1413

it was the reverse camera that i ordered on eBay last week arrived at last :)

IMG_20141013_154747_zpsjgb46vs_edit_1413

Here's what's in the box:

IMG_20141013_154902_zpsvpb0vpx_edit_1413

The leaflet on the left says:

"Thank you for purchased"

"please give 100% feedback, if no happy we make happy"

Unfortunately they didn't include an address for that factory :lol: id send Vicki over 1st Class Registered,

She's like a bag of Wiesel's these days y'all,

Anyways

Instructions are not much:

IMG_20141013_154916_zps4vv0ci1_edit_1413

I'm considering holding off on fitting it for a while,

I have an urge to bring it to the body shop and have it color coded prior to fitting :)

Such a small item yes i know lol

But if colour coded; when mounted it will look almost identical to the ford factory fitted camera supplied on the new fiesta:

CIMG1256_zpss5oveowp.jpg

If i go ahead and fit it without color coding it would always irritate me lol

I'm sure body shop will think I'm crazy asking them to mix up color just for that,

But the Halfords stuff doesn't match as good.

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That whole post made me chuckle coz I know how your OCD tendencies goes into overdrive about the little details. It's what makes all your mods that little bit extra special. I would definitely agree with you with the colour coding for the rear camera. It would actually drive me mad as well even though I would not see it.

The instructions for the reverse camera are not great. Hope the guide helps with the wiring. I would be useless with electrical wiring myself. I hope it goes well.

The magnetic trays are really handy. Love the Lidl specials. Their tools are always good value and I could spend hours in there, without getting any groceries :P

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I managed to measure the gap as well today between the sub enclosure and the back of the seat. It was 35mm(3.5cm). I have a few pictures of it. Not the greatest as the light wasn't good.

IMAG2125_zps3ytz7vmx.jpg

IMAG2126_zpsmfrv4hya.jpg

IMAG2127_zps8dsgpduc.jpg

These are the pictures of the screws I used. I will send/give you a bunch for use. They are short enough to hold the amp and not to go too deep into the mdf of the enclosure.

IMAG2123_zpssc0mloto.jpg

IMAG2124_zpsczg2jjen.jpg

IMAG2129_zpsby3iwq7o.jpg

IMAG2130_zpsw7paqsjm.jpg

This is how it's laid out in my boot:

IMAG2120_zpskphlmbtx.jpg

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I found it very handy to use the guide on here for wiring up the reverse camera I also got off ebay. Makes it nice and clear what's what and the few extra bits and pieces you need like extra cable for the power to the camera from the reverse light feed. Mine was the type which replaced a number plate light but came in exactly the same box ;) Would have been very hit and miss working the wiring out otherwise, as the instructions were limited to a very basic diagram. Same goes for the 4" screen I got to use with the spare camera which came with my DVD/Sat Nav head unit.

Never considered having the camera colour-coded, once I got it to fit properly it's reasonably recessed into the finisher so is very discrete as it is :)

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That whole post made me chuckle coz I know how your OCD tendencies goes into overdrive leave out the little details. It's what makes all your mods that little bit extra special. I would definitely agree with you with the colour coding for the rear camera. It would actually drive me mad as well even though I would not see it.

:lol: on the topic of OCD aren't people with the condition never content with achieving a self satisfying level of standard on anything so they keep at it constantly altering the end result of the same thing, im happy with the camera once it blends in really lol

And crazy as it sounds going to the body shop to have the camera colour coded will be much cheaper than doing it myself,

Here's the price list from the time i colour coded the rear view mirror never again y'all:

Harris Masking Tape 25mmx25m 3.99

Halfords Enamel Gray Primer 9.49

Halfords Ford Moondust Silver 8.49

Halfords Enamel Clear Lacquer 9.49

Halfords Paint Preparation Wipes 5.68

3M sandblaster Extra Fine P400 Flexible Pads 8.49

Total Cost 45.63

Quote extracted from thread: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/22192-spraying-rear-view-mirror/?pid=125448

i reckon it will be around 20- 25 to have it professionally done and no excess materials lying around the place, i might leave the rear view mirror in aswell to take the enphasis off the camera alone,

Ill explain the badly matched colour of the rear view mirror needs fixing and while he's at the mirror could he colour code the camera sorted :)

The magnetic trays are really handy. Love the Lidl specials. Their tools are always good value and I could spend hours in there, without getting any groceries :P

+1 no Groceries :)

I've got a box of assorted screws also picked up in lidl few months ago has sone self tapping screws much the same size as those too thanks for the measurements,

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I found it very handy to use the guide on here for wiring up the reverse camera I also got off eBay. Makes it nice and clear what's what and the few extra bits and pieces you need like extra cable for the power to the camera from the reverse light feed.

Mine was the type which replaced a number plate light but came in exactly the same box ;) Would have been very hit and miss working the wiring out otherwise, as the instructions were limited to a very basic diagram.

+1

Most confusing was the little red feed that travels along with the video plug to the head unit,

Seems its a sensor feed for some stereos have a reverse sensor feed which automatically switch's the screen to camera view when the car is put in to reverse gear.

It's good to see the camera takes all power source from the reverse light feed aswell,

So there's no power feeding the camera unless reverse gear is active i like that no risk of overheating.

Did you need to cut the Phono cable like charlie done in the guide in order to fish it through the rubber goose neck between the boot door and the roof compartment or did it fit without cutting?

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liking the look of the camera lenny.

then magnetic trays look realy handy

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liking the look of the camera lenny.then magnetic trays look realy handy

Thanks mate,

The trays are currently in all lidil stores in Ireland from 9am yesterday,

Cost 2.99 euro thats like 1.50 GBP :)

Id offer to purchase a few and ship to those interested but there quite a heavy item due to the large magnets.

Im sure they will appear in the lidl uk stores soon if not already,

Theres a lidl app available on play store allows you to see the offers available in the coming weeks,

Its ideal if your like me and dont go in to the place regularly to pick up a brochure.

Here's on for sale on ebay with free shipping:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGNETIC-TOOL-PARTS-TRAY-2-5-x-3-75-x-0-5-BRAND-NEW-BY-SILVERLINE-/261583449811?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ce796aed3

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+1 re Lidl App. Going to get that now! They do so many handy little things and it would be great to know when they are on sale as I don't go to it that regularly and go to Aldi for groceries.

It's funny how sometimes getting it at a shop works out to be cheaper with no leftover materials. Plus, the quality of the finish is generally better.

Re-ocd: You got that spot on. Welcome to my world :P

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