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"taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015


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Lenny, Can I ask where you got your alloys and are they just ST alloys?

I bought them individually from Ford dealership there Genuine Facelift Focus ST alloys 18x8" ill edit later with finis number i recommend AVON ZV5 tyres for them aswell.

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Second purchase update for March:

First item to arrive was from "RScommunications" on eBay,
Supplied me with a 15 Piece Upholstery Trim Removal Tool Set
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350830482248

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This kit will hopefully prevent any panels from damage when stripping out the interior.

Next item to arrive was from "Spares-2-Go" on eBay,
Supplied me with " AMTECH Mini Stubby Ratchet Wrench Screwdriver Socket Tool + Bit Set Philips Torx"
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191454302767

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I purchased this kit mainly because it has the large Torx screwdriver bits to enable removal of the seats in the focus.

Next item to arrive was from
"smitwhomath" on eBay
Supplied me with an Official blue "SPARCO" Tow Strap,
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171845269997

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I plan to fit this to the inside of the Boot door nice touch while keeping in scene using a race orientated item to suffice as a boot grab handle :)

Next items to arrive were from my good friends at "RadioWorld" on eBay
Supplied me with a further 6 Metres of "Vibe 4AWG Positive Flatline Cable"
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251113035519
Sold per Metre (Qty: 1= 1Metre cable)

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I have previously purchased a 7 metre length of this Vibe cable from RadioWorld to power the Mono Amp,
Having saw the cable is flatter, more flexible and slightly more copper strands inside compared to standard 4AWG;
I sold all of the standard 4AWG i had and purchased this Flatline to replace it in powering the 4 Channel Full range amp.

Next items again from "RadioWorld" on eBay was 2 Metres "Vibe 4AWG Flatline Negative feed"
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261070670815
Sold per Metre (Qty: 1= 1Metre cable)

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The negative cable goes with the positive really, not much to say in regards to it.

Next items again from "RadioWorld" on eBay was 2 sets "Vibe 4AWG Gold Crimp ring terminals"
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260795059516

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Next item was from "fullspeedit" on eBay
Supplied me with "Braided Sleeving Cable Harness Sheathing Expanding Sleeve" in Black
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290814495525

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Ideal for holding loose cables together behind the rear seat etc.

next two items to arrive were from www.modcover.com
these guys were the cheapest supplier of some RJ11 socket dust caps
Link: http://www.modcover.com/products/RJ11-Port-Silicone-Rubber-Dust-Cover.html

"Insert Image"

i plan to use two of these, one for each of the amplifiers RJ11 remote volume line controller sockets to prevent dust from getting in there as i wont be using these sockets due to the Headunit having a built in digital equalizer control all sounds can be electronically adjusted.

next item from the same supplier was some RCA socket caps.
Link: http://www.modcover.com/products/RCA-Port-Silicone-Rubber-Dust-Cover.html

"Insert Image"

i plan to use four of these to cover the Pre-amp output sockets on both of the amps,
again to prevent anything from getting inside and it seals all open ends on the system up nicely,


Next purchase was from "rmxdirect"
Supplied me with a "Lindy 2 Metre 90 degree USB cable"
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151310650611

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I plan to use this cable for my old reliable tomtom XL live SatNav.
Plug this cable in to the USB socket inside the glovebox and in to the satnav on the windscreen,
Keeps the centre console free from cables on long journeys.

Final item of the month to arrive was from "UKbargainFinder" on eBay,
Supplied me with an Unlocked 4G Huawei E8278 BUZZARD 4G IN CAR MOBILE BROADBAND WIFI Router,
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201299583173

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Since my internet connection in the home is via Sim Card plugged in to a Router,
This Car WiFi Router seemed a fantastic idea as when traveling long distances i wont be at home to make use of the WiFi Subscription,

However though the use of this item; i can transfer the sim from the house router to the mobile router and providing there's coverage i can continue to stream music from YouTube through my phone on to the headunit via bluetooth without exceeding my data allowance on my phone contract.
Passengers can also connect to the device while on the move.
No modifications required to install it simply plugs in to the spare USB socket within the glovebox or in to the 12V socket in the boot compartment via the supplied 12V to USB plug.

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Wish I'd of waited and got Bosch again.

Wanted me battery quick and went to halfrauds instead and ended up with a yuasa

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Wish I'd of waited and got bosch again.

Wanted me battery quick and went to halfrauds instead and ended up with a yuasa

If it really begins to bug you mate,

Could always sell it and perhaps go for a Bosch S5 may be available for your mondeo,

I know the focus econetic with stop/start technology takes the Bosch S5 however Bosch recommend the S4 for regular focus, id like to find out what altanator the econetic uses.

The regular 1.6TDCi engine shares the same altanator as the 1.8TDCi and the 2.0TDCi so theres a bit of extra power to be had from standard

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I bought them individually from Ford dealership there Genuine Facelift Focus ST Alloys 18x8" ill edit later with finis number i recommend AVON ZV5 tyres for them aswell.

Hi Lenny, Did you ever find them? Im tempted to get some to really finish the look off on the car and was thinking eBay will probably be the cheapest?

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Hi Lenny, Did you ever find them? Im tempted to get some to really finish the look off on the car and was thinking ebay will probably be the cheapest?

Genuine Facelift 18x8 Focus ST Alloy Wheel is FINIS1543345 mate sorry for delay in response,

Here's a link to a seller on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390754735386

Centre caps and tyre are separate,

I recommend AVON ZV5 Tyres,

You may like to have a read of this thread aswell it explains everything:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/38944-19-snow-flake-alloys-fitment-to-16tdci-will-they-fit/

Non Genuine ST are cheaper and of different design on face they are flat and don't catch the light as much being remoulds based on the Mk2 pre-facelift rim .

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I've just edit March's progress updates on page 76 and above on 78 of the build,

All going to plan ill be purchasing the sound deadening materials next month which will leave the shopping list more/less complete with the exception of a "big three upgrade" kit and a door pop kit both required from America which involves hidden import taxes,

Its been super fun :)

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Pop door kit? Did I miss an update? That sounds awesome!

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Pop door kit? Did I miss an update? That sounds awesome!

:lol: Work in progress this one,

Ive already purchased cable and push buttons, plan to install these while car is stripped,

Button fitted to underside of wing mirror on either side will pop rear door when pressed providing car is unlocked via either key in front door or standard fob,

Rear exterior handles will be removed and panels smoothened, interior handles and central locking will continue to function as normal :)

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Sounds awesome! I have only seen this on tv before. I think the TVR Tuscan had something like it? I will check out Page 76 :)

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Progress Update:

Got a bit bored this evening so i got the M5 x 25 Aluminium bolts out along with the Stainless M5 lock nuts and ball head caps,

Permanently secured the custom built brackets to the JL Audio XD300/1V2 Mono amp,

I'm missing one plastic ball head cap however there's some on the way.

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Darkness is falling now,

I've had to stop progress, however tomorrow i will create a 9mm MDF panel to fit the area inside the plastic boot panel to thicken things up.

I will then cut two rectangular slits in the plastic panel to allow these brackets pass through thus resting on top of the MDF panel out of sight.

I will then be in a position to bolt the brackets in to place using four M6 Stainless bolts, 25mm penny washers and lock nuts.

Followed by examining the fittings for the 1.0Fared cap,

More progress soon.

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Nice update Lenny, going to look awesome when finished. :)

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Nice update Lenny, going to look awesome when finished. :)

Thanks mate,

Hoping to fit the capacitor horizontally to the left of the amplifier underneath the panel,

Its looking like its going to be tight fit,

But if i put the brackets inside the panel and bolt up in to them; this will free up flush fitting surface space aswell as look cleaner.

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Your attention to detail never ceases to amaze me. Case and point, the plastic ball head cap. That was a nice touch.

Roll on more updates :)

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Your attention to detail never ceases to amaze me. Case and point, the plastic ball head cap. That was a nice touch.

Roll on more updates :)

Thanks mate Further Progress:

Im on nights this week,

Not in until 23:00 so i spent an hour shaping some 9mm MDF to fit inside shape of the panel,

After destroying the boot compartment with saw dust i discovered by using the M6 x 25mm penny washers the panel is actually robust enough without the use of any MDF at all :rolleyes:

So here is the mono amp and RedBull capacitor permanently bolted to the boot panel,

Ive gotta route cables between them aswell as charge up the capacitor via supplied resistor too.

Ill create a guide on "how to charge your capacitor" when I've done this.

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Starting to shapeup nicely. Don't overwork yourself even before getting to real work lol

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Looks great lenny! Another think I like is how the boot light is above the amp meaning it will illuminate it!

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Starting to shapeup nicely. Don't overwork yourself even before getting to real work lol

Thankfully work isn't as laborious lol that's where i get time to think about this project while I'm working,

I'm going to try get the sub fully installed by end of the week,

I say; try because i may need the loan of the large crimping pliers from the maintenance workshop in work, and its only functional 8-8

Looks great lenny! Another think I like is how the boot light is above the amp meaning it will illuminate it!

Thanks mate,

It is a nice touch having the amp fitted below the light was an unplanned surprise as i needed to fit the capacitor is aswell,

Ment moving things down a bit which resulted in light being above the amp.

The aluminium plate should also help reflect the light out a bit after fitting when I've tuned the amp.

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Im off work tonite,

Booked it off as holiday, not due back in until 23:00 tomorrow night,

So im going to install the Speakers and route cables for the amps,

Bit of a change on the build plan aswell,

Ive decided not to fit door poppers to rear doors because the NCT can fail it under the terms that its modifying the original design and safety officals wouldnt be able to open the door in the event of an accident,

Last thing i want is to have to change rear doors for NCT lol

Second thing is;

Ill only be sound deadening the roof and doors next month,

Going to leave the main area untouched for the moment to see how much difference in weight the rest of the items have,

Before i add anymore.

Today im starting with routing of amp power cables,

Followed by removing headunit to plug in RCA's and Remote feed.

Then moving on to upgrading rear door Speakers

Unfortunitly the amps wont be functioning until most likely next week,

Because ive got four crimp connections left to complete,

This being 4AWG cable i need a large crimp tool,

I obtained a loan of one from the maintenance worshop in work before and i can do again but those guys only work 8-8 ill see them on monday and crimp final connections tuesday morning.

Not in a position to install TV tuner or Flip down screen yet as i dont currently have the sound deadening to apply to the roof and i dont see point i removing everything twice.

Im also awaiting arrival of an RCA splitter from China to complete connections.

Ill edit this post with progress when darkness falls today im going to make hay while the sun shines.

Converted one set of the JL C3 650 to Coaxial form for the rear doors,

These are pretty heavy lol

Still use the crossover box when in coaxial form.

Left is Coaxial form,

Right is Component form,

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Centre cone twists to unlock revealing spade terminals to fit the Tweeter:

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The Tweeter cone clips in to support tweeter in centre of speaker

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Seems a shame to hide these inside door

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Crossover box's have six configuration options,

Will take some playing to get these setup correctly maybe low setting in front and high in the back.

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Its Gonna Bounce!!

Edit: todays progress

Lovely rain has put a short end to progress today,

Heres some pictures ill post details of faults found in the next post,

Started off very well,

Run all power cables to the mono amp still need to crimp two earths and charge capacitor,

Found a threaded M6 hole in the boot so obtained an M6 bolt and earthed the cables was epic lol

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Cut out some holes and fitted grommets for cables in panel above mono amp

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Fitted all cables to the mono amp and capacitor,

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Routed FlatBass cable to opposite side of the boot for the sub and attached banana plugs

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I've routed all three RCA cables from the boot up the drivers side of the roof lining,

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Tried to route both 4AWG power cables along the floor of passenger side under the doors from boot to glovebox but there wasn't enough space,

So i alternatively routed both power cables up along the passenger side roof lining down pillar in to passenger footwell,

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Took off rear passenger door, drilled out rivets removed the 25W stock speaker,

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Fitted the JL C3 650 then discovered i don't have the correct size of rivets to fit it,

Here's how the boot compartment is looking now, its complete except for the two earth feed crimps, those cables will be hidden once crimped.

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Id appreciate your input on this guys im not 100% happy with having routed both 4 awg power cables across the roof lining

How have you routed yours?

Also can anyone advise me on rivets,

I've bought a pop riveter,

But need rivets,

The drill bit i used to remove old rivets was 5.5mm

I assume i need M6 rivets but the need to be long aswell rite?

Also Torx,

What size Torx is required to remove seat bolts as i need to clamp an earth ring in to one of the back seat bolts.

And finally poor Jeremy Clarkson, Gutted to hear the news :(

Thanks

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Id appreciate your input on this guys im not 100% happy with having routed both 4 awg power cables across the roof lining

How have you routed yours?

Also can anyone advise me on rivets,

I've bought a pop riveter,

But need rivets,

The drill bit i used to remove old rivets was 5.5mm

I assume i need M6 rivets but the need to be long aswell rite?

Also Torx,

What size Torx is required to remove seat bolts as i need to clamp an earth ring in to one of the back seat bolts.

And finally poor Jeremy Clarkson, Gutted to hear the news :(

Thanks

I've run my power cables inside the trim under under the seal that runs around the passenger doors! :)

The Torx bit you Will need will be around a 50.

As for Clarkson... Gutting.. but to be honest.. imagine Guy Martin in His place!

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Looking good there Lenny. It's all coming along nicely. I like how all the amps are on one side.

With regards to your wires, I put my 4 awg wires under the side sill on the left of the car. I just tucked them on the inside after going from behind the glovebox. I had to take out the glovebox to make that work.

Sadly can't help you out with rivets :(

As for the torx, let me know when you find out as it's something I too want to know.

Best of luck with the upgrade.

Gutted about Top Gear but still Clarkson should not punch other people.

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