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"taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015


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How much did you pay for the car wifi kit mate? In pounds sterling

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How much did you pay for the car wifi kit mate? In pounds sterling

I bought it "Unlocked SIM Free" on eBay Auction for winning bid of 37.00 GBP + 4.00 UK Shipping to my ParcelMotel account.
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That seems expensive

Mooched on eBay and saw one for 37quid that includes a 6gb of data sim card

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That seems expensive

Mooched on eBay and saw one for 37quid that includes a 6gb of data sim card

:lol:

There also available from the Philippines for less than 20 GBP reliability in my opinion would be a gamble however each to there own.

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281627156798

There might even be one listed with a free ladyboy and what would be wrong with that lol

The network card or SIM was no use to me as I'm in a different country, i requested that they remove it prior to shipping as it would be no use to me if anything the seller may make some use from it, i left it with them.

My home broadband connection is also via a SIM card based router, i transfer the sim to the car router on long journeys so there's no additional costs I'm using the same unlimited broadband connection in the car on the move as in the home same monthly bill saves me from exceeding my monthly data allowance on the mobile phone bill.

I'm an "if you want it buy it" sort of guy :lol:

so if you want it pal buy it. I've already got one and highly recommend them the cost is only another one of those "terms & conditions" there's a deal out there for everyone.

I saw the listing for mine at the time and bought it mate,

It i was to go on about the cost of things i really wouldn't have an 86 page build thread of progress or over 30 Guides on here to be honest.

Link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/68214-full-list-lennys-guides/

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Whoahhh lenny dude unessessary rant

I wasnt impyling cheap copies from philippines with a free lady boy would be better

I mearly made an observation that for the same price as what you paid for the sim free version you could of got one with a 6gig of data sim included.

Now that you said you could of had the sim but it would of been no use to you so you opted not to have it it makes perfect sense.

Dont need to talk to me about being an 'if you want it buy it' sort of guy, I bought my new car on a whim rather than keep modifying the focus due to the amount of miles it had covered. Could of bought a normal mondeo or another focus but had to go all out and buy the beastiest version going.

Price isn't an issue to me either

Like I said mate, merely an observation as to why you wouldnt want the data card but obviously theres no point having it if it wont work anyway

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good track this, just heard it today for first time,

Thought is share it here as its an excellent video lol

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  • 5 weeks later...

Afternoon buddy.. Hope you don't mind me asking but do you have USB and AUX in your arm rest?

My new radios on order and I want to utilise the existing infrastructure to make it look clean. Did you do this and if so was it easy to do?

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Afternoon buddy.. Hope you don't mind me asking but do you have USB and AUX in your arm rest?

My new radios on order and I want to utilise the existing infrastructure to make it look clean. Did you do this and if so was it easy to do?

Hi mate,

I dont mind answering questions when were getting somewhere and making progress

I sure did and it was straight forward swap out of 12V socket,

See page 52: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/41443-taking-oval-to-blue-horizon-lennys-build-thread-2010-2015/?p=426291

Fit in the usb and aux port in place of it,

What way does your new headunit accept the 3.5mm Aux input?

Via 3.5mm plug

Or

Via RCA input

The kit comes in both forms,

Heres picture of mine top left,

The cable is for commecting iPhone to CarPlay on the Pioneer headunit, reads texts, emails etc.:

IMG_20141124_192912_zpsgddzzaoc.jpg

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Aww OK because you see mine is different. I have a 12v adapter and a USB and AUX port (factory fitted)

I wanted to use those so that all the functionality I've had will remain.

The radio I'm getting will take both a 3.5mm jack or RCA.

My belief is the cabelling for what I have goes back to the bluetooth module which means it won't work :( unless I take the existing cabelling out and replace with ones that would be suitable "/

This one to be precise on your photobucket

http://s575.photobucket.com/user/lennymanwoods/media/_35_zpsbv3wtur_edit_1416430265022_zpstyxzkve2.jpg.html

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Aww OK because you see mine is different. I have a 12v adapter and a USB and AUX port (factory fitted)

I wanted to use those so that all the functionality I've had will remain.

The radio I'm getting will take both a 3.5mm jack or RCA.

My belief is the cabelling for what I have goes back to the Bluetooth module which means it won't work :( unless I take the existing cabelling out and replace with ones that would be suitable "/

I did research the factory fitted usb and aux port armrest when commencing my audio upgrade i was initially going to fit the one you have,

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I then discovered the setup to be quite outdated because an iPhone is too large to fit in the pouch situated next to the USB socket,

The armrest lid wont close with this in place,

So instead I've replaced the 12V socket and purchased an aftermarket pouch to house the phone mounted deeper in the centre console meaning the lid closes as it should

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121680383835

Also saw on page: 56 of the build link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/41443-taking-oval-to-blue-horizon-lennys-build-thread-2010-2015/page-56#entry431121

In the case where you want to retain the existing panel then you could purchase the 12V socket shaped kit i have myself and dissect it to swap in to the existing panel in your car.

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Mmmm... Sounds a bit too messy. I don't mind too much about the pouch thing, want to keep it standard(ish) so its easy to revert upon sale. I'm happy to leave my phone floating in there.

Just wondered if you knew the type of cables that go back from those connections? If its a USB extender and a male to female AUX in quids in but knowing ford it goes back to something rogue and won't be that simple

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Mmmm... Sounds a bit too messy. I don't mind too much about the pouch thing, want to keep it standard(ish) so its easy to revert upon sale. I'm happy to leave my phone floating in there.

Just wondered if you knew the type of cables that go back from those connections? If its a USB extender and a male to female AUX in quids in but knowing ford it goes back to something rogue and won't be that simple

The USB socket should be an extension,

Plugging in to a USB socket on the bluetooth module,

I believe the 3.5mm Aux socket will be a connector block feeding in to the loom at the back of the headunit.

If you were to purchase an AUX cable for the 6000CD from eBay,

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391124025455

It comes with a moulded plug to fit in to the iso block on the headunit,

You could split this block and the block from the socket within the armrest, hard wire both together resulting in a female to male socket extension.

Alternatively purchase the aftermarket 12V socket replacement kit and have it resting in the bottom of the arm rest box,

Easily removed again when selling and doesn't upset the original wiring,

Although the original wiring will be useless if the factory fitted bluetooth module is removed.

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Well been out and taken a look Lenny and unfortunately my worst fears are correct. The plate I mentioned isn't usable. The rear of the aux is some funky ford cable and the female USB goes to a micro USB V.1 male (although into the bluetooth module as expected.)

Attached are some piccys of the connections. First the plate and then the bluetooth module

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Well been out and taken a look Lenny and unfortunately my worst fears are correct. The plate I mentioned isn't usable. The rear of the aux is some funky ford cable and the female USB goes to a micro USB V.1 male (although into the Bluetooth module as expected.)

Attached are some piccys of the connections. First the plate and then the Bluetooth module

I see,

Maybe route the 12V socket shaped unit through to the arm rest box and leave it resting in the bottom,

This way it can be easily removed at later date if desired.

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Update:

The time has come around again for the car to have a full service done on it,

As result; this update is mainly the replacing of worn out service items,

as parts need replacing I'm upgrading to premium aftermarket alternatives where possible; this way you get the most value from the existing stock parts prior to upgrading resulting in most value for money.

First item to arrive this month was from eBay seller: "ClickAMotorPart" supplied me with a set of COMLINE 278mm Drilled & Grooved Front Brake Discs complete with some Mintex front brake pads:

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These Sport Brakes are the quickest and easiest way to upgrade the current OE braking performance to greatly improve response without fitting bigger brakes which cost alot more and contributing to "Un Sprung Mass"

The sports discs offer less brake fade during heavy breaking thanks to there combination of grooves and holes allowing the gasses and heat to channel away faster and easier allowing for longer stopping performance.

Please Note:

The discs vary in size on the 1.6TDCi Focus,

the link here is for 278MM BRAKE DISCS (NOT 300MM)

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300847032462

Check sellers store for the 300MM size Disc if required these are 278MM Discs featured,

In order to find out "what size are my discs"

Remove the wheel and measure the disc at longest point from tip to tip as saw below:

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Prior to having these fitted by a professional mechanic;

I've purchased a spray can of Hammerite Smooth Finish Silver paint, roll of masking tape and some Halfords Paint Preparation wipes to clean the surface of the disc prior to applying paint,

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I masked up the main surface of the discs aswell as the hub face area and spray painted the spacer sections of the discs to prevent rust and keep them silver for a lot longer when fitted.

I've masked up the hub face area because when fitting the Discs; copper grease is applied to the hub face in order to prevent the alloy wheel from bonding to the hub when the disc becomes hot.

Painting at a table is one of the few jobs i can do at present due to fracture,

Its nice to be doing somthing a bit productive again and somewhat preventative maintenance ;)

NOTE:

All brake discs have a film of oil applied to them to protect from rusting when in storage,

Since I'm not fitting them yet I've masked up the disc area that i don't want to paint; prior to using the Halfords pain preparation wipes to ensure i don't remove the protective oil from an area that wont be protected prior to fitment on the car.

Here's the area before prep wipes,

Quite oily,

i also used some cotton buds to remove oil from the ring crevice

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Left for 20 minutes to dry and here it is ready for paint:

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Spray painted left again for drying,

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Both back in there box's now ready for fitting :)

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Now the Mintex pads (Part Number: MDB2634)

That came with the cross drilled & Grooved discs are slightly better than stock pads,

However having spoken to two local mechanics whom have had this type of setup themselves on there own cars;

They both advised me that these acquired Mintex pads would wear out quite quickly when fitted with these discs,

They both recommended i purchase some EBC GreenStuff pads (Part number: DP21524)

Which would be a much better match for the upgrade discs providing a 15% increase in braking performance over stock with lower carbon deposit on the rims,

I searched eBay and Google with the EBC GreenStuff part number "DP21524" and found them available cheapest purchasing directly from EBC brake shop.com

Link: http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/ford-focus-16-td-ebc-front-greenstuff-brake-pad-dp21524_p23484186.htm

Some eBay sellers advertise cheaper but charge more for shipping making them more expensive in the end :rolleyes:

The EBC shop is straight from factory with free UK shipping and here they are ready for fitting along with the discs with thanks to ParcelMotel:

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Next item to arrive this month was from eBay seller "mrsilicone"

Supplied me with a set of Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided Brake lines in my colour of choice "ow yes" Canary Yellow :)

Fitment is for All Ford Focus MKII inc. C-Max same lines for rear discs and rear drums on the Mk2 & Mk2.5

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351373191753

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While in the process of upgrading the brake discs and pads to uprated aftermarket replacements;

I figured the factory fitted rubber brake lines are the only remaining weak spot in any stock automotive braking system that should be addressed while the other associated parts are being swapped out at the same time.

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The standard braking system consists of a brake fluid resivour that feeds fluid to a brake master cylinder,

The Cylinder is controlled by of course the brake pedal and in todays motors an ESP module aswell,

The brake master cylinder feeds the brake fluid through the esp control module via hard steel pipes continuing then via individual pipes to each wheel arch of the car,

These pipes are completely solid mandrel bent non flexible lines capable of handling high pressure and heat inside without any expansion or deterioration in performance,

As standard a flexible rubber brake line then bridges the gap between each of these hard pipe's and the brake drum or brake caliper on each hub,

Due to moving parts it is impossible to have a complete hard pipe system.

Standard factory fit brake lines are simply rubber hoses which serve there purpose quite well in carrying brake fluid to the pistons inside the caliper; but the integrity of the rubber can weaken and expand like a baloon under heavy or brisk repetitive braking especially when the brake fluid and brakes discs heat up;

This expansion within the hose reduces the amount of end pressure that finally pushes the brake pads on to the brake discs thus reducing braking performance on say for example the 4th close cut bend of a brisk country road, with standard brake lines the stopping performance wouldnt be quite as powerful as once was on first or second bend.

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Braided brake lines are a Teflon hose inside woven strands of stainless steel which eliminates any room for hose expansion what so ever forcing all pressure to be applied where its supposed to be and needed most: inside the pistons behind the brake pads pressing them against the disc.

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The coloured sleeve is fitted over the braided hose to give it some aesthetic pleasure aswell as protect the stainless Steel strands from scuffing off any other metal part on the hub.

So why choose yellow?

Well i had a choice of carbon print, blue, lime green, red, black, white, orange, pink, yellow or glow in the dark green.

If this was my mother-in-laws car; id have chosen the glow in the dark lines for sure :lol:

Save any guess work when snipping in the dark they would be glowing ;)

Here's a link to the Glow in the Dark version for all Mk2 Focus & C-Max Models exc. ST & RS models

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351373190769

I personally chose yellow because they will be a nice math next to PowerFlex bushes when the time comes for existing bushes to be changed out or Some WhiteLine rear Drop links.

The yellow brake lines wont really be visible from the kerb side; only when tyre removed or car is on a ramp,

However the difference will be felt in braking efficiency much like a remap for the brake pedal; more power for less effort on the pedal.

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Next item to arrive was from eBay seller "ProdigyMotorSport"

Supplied me with the mighty K&N 57S 4000 Performance Induction Kit,

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151572141725

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Guaranteed Performance Increase,

To make sure of this; K&N include two stickers amounting to +5bhp each!!

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I have been against K&N in the past as saw in my guide here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

At the time of fitting & creating the guide; Green Cotton Performance was the leading product and still are in terms of a straight swap upgrade which does improve performance & MPG for under 60 pounds.

I'm now at a stage where my Green Induction filter needs a clean or replacement,

Rather than purchase a cleaning kit i figured id purchase a replacement filter altogether.

On researching today's market i found K&N have created what they call the 57s-4000 which consists of a larger than stock induction filter,

Its so much larger; K&N have manufactured and supplied a bigger induction hosing lid to case the mother :)

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The filter itself also has a top side port consists of an inverted cone style filter inside the cylinderfilter set inside the main cylinder and capped inside which draws more cold air in through the side of the box,

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The blue arrow in the image below shows the black blanking cap which is at the top of the inside cone,

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The pink inverted cone filter saw in the images above; is a separate filter from the main cylinder, it does not symbolise the depth of the main cylinder these are two separate filters on the cylinder

As you can see in image below which has been taken from inside the filter you can clearly see the inverted side induction filter entering at the top.

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This side port can also be closed off using supplied plug for winter months when its better to have more restricted flow of cold air in diesel engines because diesel wax's in freezing conditions.

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Now fitted to the focus replacing the stock lid.

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I will post a personal review on the performance increase gained by this filter at a later date when I'm capable of driving again myself.

However "VickiW" has driven it and says it feels like the increase gained from blanking the EGR Valve and myself can hear a nice induction woosh :lol:

Thanks to Vicki for fitting the filter to the focus under my instruction.

Next service item to arrive was from eBay seller "ultimatecareparts"

Supplied me with a pair of Michelin Stealth Hybrid Wiper Blades,

In sizes 19" and 22"

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400536365770

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I normally religiously fit Bosch Aero Wiper Blades and have done prior to the last two service intervals (cheaper than Ford and last longer),

Bosch Blades have been excellent quality however I've made the mistake of purchasing these Michelin Stealth Hybrid Wiper Blades this time around as i thought they looked nice and they have Received "Auto Express Product of The Year Award 2014"

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Sadly guys;

I dont recommend these Michelin Stealth Hybrid blades for the focus now atall, :(

They come with dozens of model specific clips to fit various wiper arm styles,

The adaptor which fits the focus is too thin thus allowing for a bit of movement in the blade and you can see a section of the support bolt is exposed,

Nothing Stealth about them atall the fitment couldn't look any more aftermarket to be fair :lol:

This set of Michelin Blades are now in my Recycle wheelie bin where i hope they will be taken and reformed in to somthing half decent to be honest :/

Anyway,

With regards to fitting wipers in general most people probably leave this job to the Dealership or Garage to change the wipers as part of the service,

However you can save yourself up to 35.00 euro by purchasing and fitting them yourself prior to having the car serviced at a dealership or garage cut out the middle man,

See my Guide Changing wiper Blades Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5

Link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/38125-guide-wiper-blade-change-focus-mk2-mk25/

I strongly recommend Bosch wiper blades as always.

Purchased a set from Micksgarage.ie and replaced the front wipers no messing around with Bosch.

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I'll be having the fuel filter changed by Ford as part of a service in the coming weeks,

I wanted to make the most value out of the upcoming fuel filter change by sourcing a cleaning product that would flush all dirt and contaminates through from the fuel tank and lines to the existing fuel filter prior to having it changed.

I spoke to a few mechanics via Twitter asking them what product is best for the job without stripping oil from the engine like RedEx does,

They recommended i use this Fuel additive from XADO Ireland said to be "The Business"

link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=26

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It looks like two bottles but its actually one bottle and a screw on spout,

I must say the stuff looks quality and to my surprise; the bottle is made from aluminium :o not the usual plastic construction,

Would make a great sugar dispenser when empty lol spout and everything.

Ill have it put in the tank just before filling up with 50ltrs of Diesel then have the filter changed as part of service in coming weeks.

Next service item was purchased locally at Halfords

Supplied me with a 1ltr bottle of Comma DOT4 Synthetic clutch&brake fluid

Link: http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=15551&langId=-1&categoryId=212419&productId=1083193&storeId=11101

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Saved 15% (02.10) off RRP.

Thanks to the forum members discount card :)

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Next item to arrive was from CrudePerformance.co.uk supplied a 25mm Custom Built Oil Catch Tank Kit for the 1.6TDCi Engine,

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This 25mm Oil Catch Tank kit

Link: http://www.nbstyling.co.uk/store/?pID=23

Prevents oil vapours from the crank case recirculating and condensing in the induction chamber,

I recommend fitting one of these just as much as fitting an EGR blanking plate because they both prevent contamination to the induction air being drawn in to the combustion chamber,

The oil catch tank wont directly increase driving performance like blanking the EGR Valve does; but it will play a significant part in prolonging turbo life aswell as improving intercooler efficiency by preventing any further oil from condensing and filling the intercooler which reduces its cooling performance.

Choice of piping colours: Red, Black or Blue.

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This item will also help prolong turbo life by catching the engine oil and vapours being expelled from the rocker cover crank case,

Condensing them in the pot where they can be gathered and drained instead of recirculating in to the induction chamber,

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The kit is well worth every penny spent,

The craftsmanship is perfect,

It also comes with fully illustrated fitting instructions for fitting to the 1.6TDCi Fiesta as saw in image below:

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Sadly It will be a while before im able to fit this item myself but when i do;

ill be following this great detailed guide by Darren (DEE_82) whom has a guide on fitting to the Focus 1.6TDCi,

Link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/71753-oil-catch-can-install-16-tdci/

Having watched the recent MightyCarMods Video (See Video Below)

ill also be fitting a clean scouring pads as saw in the picture below; inside the oil catch tank to assist in the condensing of oil vapours by creating a greater amount of contact surfaces within the container.

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Picked these up in my local Tesco Store for fitting inside the oil catch tank:

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nbstyling.co.uk also stock a full range of Hybrid :o

Yes a full range of ybrid Turbos! Even for the 1.4TDCi engine, Roll That Coal Baby!!

With a Hybrid turbo and a few other turbo supporting mods such as 2.5" exhaust you can take your 1.6TDCi up to 170Bhp :lol:

This however would need 110 injectors, a kevlar clutch and rear brake discs for sure,

Sadly not just a case of fitting a turbo and remapping if your seeking to do things properly.

Final item purchased and to arrive this month was from eBay seller "BlueChargeDirect"

Supplied me with a 3 Metre Gold RCA Audio to 3.5mm Jack cable,

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370895027076

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This cable will be added to the Xtrons 10.1" HD roof mounted monitor Guide i completed last April link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67763-guide-fitting-flip-down-roof-monitor-dvd-to-focus-mk2-mk25/

This cable will plug in to the 3.5mm jack at the rear of the Pioneer AVH-8600BT Headunit carrying audio from the Headunit out from 3.5mm connection to RCA inputs on the rear 10.1" Monitor.

This cable will allow the rear monitor to receive the audio from a video source playing in the pioneer headunit.

The rear monitor can then transmit the audio out via iR signal to the rear seat passengers wearing compatable wireless headphones,

Such as these: http://xtrons.co.uk/car-media-fitting-accessories.html

Meaning the Pioneer headunit can play a DVD, TV or PlayStation 2 to the monitor in the back with sound via headphones for the rear passengers while also playing the radio, bluetooth steaming, CD or MP3 playback to the passengers in the front via the car Speakers all at the same time without the use of the rear monitors built in DVD drive aswell.

Again this cable is another item that will be a while before i can actually fit to the car but i will eventually get it fitted when capable.

"Respect to the Man in the Nightline van"

ParcelMotel saved me over 25 pounds on shipping the above items across from the UK to Republic Of Ireland this month,

see www.parcelmotel.com for more info and to sign up :)

In other news this month;

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I've had an upcoming feature Interview via email with Ben from Connects2

Connects2 are the Market Leader in Europe for the supply of car Audio Interfaces including Canbus systems.

Connects2 also provide custom fit high quality reverse cameras aswell as many other high quality items,

I've used a lot of there products in process of this build thread

Tweet: @Connects2

Ben is the Marketing & Social Media Co-ordinator at Connects2 Ltd and the Star of many C2 YouTube Product video's

I met Ben via Twitter in January when i was sourcing suppliers for some parts in the build thread including the reverse camera and 1.0 Fared Capacitor,

Connects2 very kindly later asked me to feature an interview;

This is my second ever motor related media interview and i must say it was quite enjoyable the questions i was asked brought back some fantastic memories :)

Final bit of news then was having read Kieran's (GingerFlame) build thread earlier in the month

where he sustained a sidewall puncture to one of his tyre link to discussion:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/63471-mk6-fiesta-flame-14-build-log-was-fiesta-mk6-5-door-custom-sub/?p=498046

This discussion remind me to check the condition of my own front tyres,

I've had the rear Avon ZV5 replaced back in February of this year as saw on page 73 of this build and there's still plenty of thread on them,

However the fronts have been fitted since August 2014 and they were almost down to the rubber bridge in the threads,

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So back to my local Tyre Specialist with eh deep pockets two Avon ZV5 225/40ZR18 92W please,

Special order from Avon in the UK 135 euro each fitted,

Going for 18's isn't so appealing when your replacing the tyres yo!

I wouldn't fit anything other than Avon there awesome tyres and my local tyre specialist is top man for quality service two great company's i will remain tied to for life :)

Old picture of tyre fitting here as currently unable to drive,

I wasnt there for fitting this time around but pictures help keep things interesting.

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New tyres fitted to rear and rears put on front as it should be done,

Fronts should last until January, generally get around 10-12 Months out of a pair.

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Overall July has been quite an expensive month in maintenance costs due to wear & tare aswell as the exchange rate being at an all time low between Sterling and euro, (1.00 euro = 0.60 pence )

However as you can see above; General Maintenance can be fun when you replace worn out parts with upgraded aftermarket items.

Money can also be saved by purchasing wipers and fitting yourself rather than leaving it to the garage to supply and fit.

Next Month:

The Focus is going to an independent Garage to have the aftermarket brake discs & pads fitted,

Its then going in to a ford garage to have:

fuel filter changed,

Pollen filter changed,

oil & filter changed,

Cant see Ford being capable of catching me for anything else at this point in service since its all been done prior to leaving it in :lol:

And you may question at this point:

"Lenny why are you going to two Garages for Service"

Well i believe a Genuine Ford Fuel filter gives best flow and MPG,

The pollen filter is also prone to leaks if not done properly so ill leave it to Ford to replace.

Thanks for reading, next update will be a review the service at Ford Dealership.

Comments Welcome :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Lenny! Great stuff all around with the pics and guides!

I noticed that you recently upgraded your brake discs and pads. I bought my car few months ago and based on the braking which was very "uneven" my mechanic friend said that the discs were warped. I changed the discs and pads and everything was fine for a while. Now I noticed that this "uneven" braking is coming back again. Also the wheel is shaking when braking every now and then. This doesn't happen always though. Based on these I'm thinking that could the discs be warped again? What I've read this has been an issue with Fords for quite some time. Is this correct? Have you experienced these kind of problems at any time?

I was wondering that would it help to use these kind of grooved and drilled brake discs. Maybe those would stay cooler and wouldn't warp so easily?

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Hey Lenny! Great stuff all around with the pics and guides!

I noticed that you recently upgraded your brake discs and pads. I bought my car few months ago and based on the braking which was very "uneven" my mechanic friend said that the discs were warped. I changed the discs and pads and everything was fine for a while. Now I noticed that this "uneven" braking is coming back again. Also the wheel is shaking when braking every now and then. This doesn't happen always though. Based on these I'm thinking that could the discs be warped again? What I've read this has been an issue with Fords for quite some time. Is this correct? Have you experienced these kind of problems at any time?

I was wondering that would it help to use these kind of grooved and drilled brake discs. Maybe those would stay cooler and wouldn't warp so easily?

Hi Kyösti

Thanks for comments,

If one disc is worn more than the opposite side that's normal in todays cars equipped with ESP (Traction Control)

Because ESP will use the brakes on any wheel independently to slow down any wheel that's going faster than Schumacher :lol:

i mean the other wheels in order to keep you on the road,

ESP is great in the dry and wet but useless in the snow because ESP stops all wheel spin.

Can be switched off in centre screen menu but automatically switches on each time engine is started.

However a warped disc is caused by excessive heat,

I've not heard much about warped discs on the focus mate,

One or two people have post thread on the forum but not a significant amount that would deem it a common problem.

Ford are notorious for buckled alloys though,

If you have a buckled wheel this will cause effects such as an uneven disc, pulling to one side of the road.

I reckon you should have the wheels checked aswell as laser tracking alignment.

Any tyre specialist can perform these tasks for you.

Another problem could be wheel hub bearing or the CV joint are rubbing when driving thus generating increased heat on the hub and warping the disc.

The stock braking system in the focus has always been underpowered in my opinion they don't slow as quick as other cars.

Upgrading to bigger callipers is an option but this contributes to the vehicles "unsprung mass" which will reduce the driving performance 0-60 speed etc.

Cross drilled & grooved discs do run cooler than standard discs,

They are a great upgrade and look good.

However I'm not sure how much cooler they run and if it would solve the root cause of the problem your currently experiencing.

Discs are pretty thick pieces of metal it would take a lot of consistent heat build up to warp it.

Ultimately in a pathway to solving the problem,

Id first have wheels checked for buckles,

Second have the CV joint and Hub bearings inspected for grinding.

After those,

Have the laser tracking alignment checked and speak to others on here may have other ideas.

The warped disc you have is now a problem but i don't think it is the main issue.

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Thanks again for the answer.

I recently bought the alloy wheels and also bought new tires to them. Wheels are from 2012 Tourneo Connect and were in very good shape (at least no visible errors). When I bought the tires wheels were balanced, so personally wouldn't blame the wheels.

But now that you mentioned the hub bearings. I already changed the bearing for the right side front wheel. At that time the mechanic said that usually bearings last about same time, so soon the other bearing need to be changed also. So worn hub bearings can cause this kind of symptoms? Sounds plausible that this might generate heat and warp the disc.

So maybe I'll change the other bearing also, change the discs (maybe little bit better than the cheapest ones) and do the laser tracking alignment after those.

Thanks again mate! You've been more than a helpful! :)

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Today i decided to kill some time by preparing the oil catch tank for fitting whenever that will be im usure as of yet but i was capable of opening it on the table so a bit of progress was made.

Ultimatly this 25mm custom built 1.6TDCi oil catch tank kit is designed to replace the stock crank case to induction pipe while having the tank situated in the middle to capture the oil preventing it from condensing in the induction chamber and intercooler pipe work.

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I opened up the oil catch tank to install the scouring pad as discussed above.

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Removal of all six Allen head bolts revealed the inside of the chamber,

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I then opened the pack of scouring pads,

Teased one of them out to a flat rectangle using fingers and thumbs, Here's a before & after

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I then rolled it up like a carpet

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Inserted in to the oil catch tank chamber

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Next the inlet pipe feeding from the engine crank case ideally needs to be extended in length to ensure the oil becomes trapped in the scrubber system as best possible,

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So i cut a short length of pipe and fitted to the inlet side:

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This will force oil vapours down in to the scrubber system where the oil gasses will condense in the network of mesh,

Cleaner air will then circulate upwards through the return line feeding in to the induction pipe free from any oil contamination.

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All back tightly back together now,

Inlet pipe from engine goes on the left,

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The catch tank can be easily drained at every service interval via its own sump plug.

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Mighty Car Mods episode gave you the idea?

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Mighty Car Mods episode gave you the idea?

Yeah :lol:

I had the custom oil catch tank on order from NB styling, then i saw the MightyCarMods episode shortly after ordering the kit,

The scouring pad made perfect sense as it increases the amount of contact surfaces within th3 chamber much like a catalyst,

It doesn't reduce flow at all though.

I've tried blowing through it and its fine :lol:

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It does make sense and is a nice little purposeful mod. New episode out this week at some point! Wohoo!

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It does make sense and is a nice little purposeful mod. New episode out this week at some point! Wohoo!

:) episode out today,

Fitting a sub inside your spare wheel replacing the steel rim with a sub and using the tyre as a sub enclosure PMSL!! :lol:

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