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Which Engine Is In My Mk3?!


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#1 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:12 PM

Ladies and Gentleman,

 

I recently purchased a Mondeo MK3 (Lola). She has 03 reg plates but my insurance and DVLA papers show it to be a 2002 model. Before taking possession of the car I went out and bought a Haynes Manual covering Oct 2000 to Jul 2003 Mondeo. 

 

Now I have since come to the understanding that Ford may have incrementally changed certain features of the engine (Turbo, EGR system etc) and as such, I believe that I have purchased the wrong book for my engine! I found this out today when about to fit an EGR blacking plate, she suffers form a lack of power around 1800-2200 RPM and belches a noticeable amount of smoke at this point. Upon popping the bonnet and removing the cover I discovered that my EGR valve is up the front of the engine.

 

 I originally assumed I had a 2.0 TDCI 115 engine but am now unsure! Here is a picture of the engine bay. Can anyone identify which engine I have? 

 

IMG_20130310_144444_m.jpg

 

Edit: Please ignore the filthy state of the engine bay. I haven't yet had a chance to clean it up properly!!



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#2 FOCA

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:31 PM

You have a TDCI 2.0L with a front- mounted Pnematic EGR (Euro3 compliant or the equivelant of) VNT/ variable vane turbo with Pnumatically operated / actuator 

 

You can see the common rail so its not a TDDI

 

I can't see but i presume it has a 5-speed box?, if it does the turbo pipes go over the g-box and it has a turbo resonator

 

There is a plate/ sticker on the left-hand side of the engine that will tell you the power output - if it says "115" it means its suposed to be 115PS - 113hp, this was to keep it within a German/ EU tax bracet and when they put "113Hp" cars on the dyno they measured 127Hp out of them, and quite a lot of torque

 

Surprisingly, these engines have a lot of tuning potential (up to a point)/ without spending a fortune - it is basically a shorter-stroke version of the 152Hp 2.2    

 

The EGR can be blanked (solid,(no holes to let gasses through) stainless steel plate) with no problem

 

I will post up a picture of where to fit the blanking plate when i find it  

 

You can fit 2 plates (one in the normal place and one on the cooler at the back) and remove the EGR pipe for a bit more performance/ economy and reliability

 

PS - the hose just under the EGR valve tends to split - this would cause lack of boost/ power and exessive smoke  

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  • egr valve locationfor plate -.jpg


#3 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:41 PM

Hi Foca,

 

It is a 5-speed manual, yeah. The air intake pipe seems to come up from under the engine directly into the EGR, couldn't see the intercooler, but it was getting late and snowing...

 

So did Ford simply switch the location of the EGR part way through the model run, or are models with rear EGR's near the turbo just the TDDI models?

 

I believe the blanking plate slots in between the EGR and the pipe running horizontal in front of the engine? 

 

Thanks!

 

Edit: Thanks again Foca. The hose looks tough to inspect without removing the EGR. Guess I can do this when cleaning out the intake manifold...



#4 stef123

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:41 PM

also if you are having problems with the egr and black smoke, now is the time to remove it and the intake manifold if necessary to clean the soot out of them



#5 BigD

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:41 PM

Also, go to "vehicle enquiry" and put your reg number in.  That should tell you.

 

https://www.taxdisc....?skin=directgov

 

[edit] Strike that.  Thought it did, but it doesn't (at least, not for mine).  Was sure it used to.



#6 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:47 PM

also if you are having problems with the egr and black smoke, now is the time to remove it and the intake manifold if necessary to clean the soot out of them

Hi Stef,

 

Good idea. My initial thoughts were to quickly pop the blanking plate in and see if I get smoke reduction and drop those flat spots. If I see an improvement I will then do as you suggest. 

 

From the sounds of it I will almost need a hazchem suit for the cleaning job!

 

Cheers.



#7 BigD

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:48 PM

Ignore my post above - this is what I was thinking of! https://www.etis.for...eRegSelector.do

 

If you don't see a box for registration number, click on Home, Preferences, and change country to United Kingdom, then try again.



#8 stef123

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:48 PM

Hi Stef,

 

Good idea. My initial thoughts were to quickly pop the blanking plate in and see if I get smoke reduction and drop those flat spots. If I see an improvement I will then do as you suggest. 

 

From the sounds of it I will almost need a hazchem suit for the cleaning job!

 

Cheers.

 

 

if the egr and manifold is blocked up with soot it will restrict airflow - why you get black smoke. so you need to clean it all out and stop it happening again which is where your blanking plate comes in

 

it is a mucky job though



#9 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:49 PM

Also, go to "vehicle enquiry" and put your reg number in.  That should tell you.

 

https://www.taxdisc....?skin=directgov

 

[edit] Strike that.  Thought it did, but it doesn't (at least, not for mine).  Was sure it used to.

Cheers. I couldn't see detailed info there, but I do remember seeing more detailed info on some insurance quotes. Not sure if they pulled the info from a database or simply assumed year and make as I did.



#10 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 11:08 PM

I've read that an EGR blanking plate should be off at least 2mm steel. I am only able to find aluminium ones on Ebay. Does anyone know where to buy one of steel?

 

Additionally, I now have a spare EGR blanking plate that suits a rear mounted system. Can't sell it on here as under 1 month etc etc so it is free to the first person who PM's me. I'm sure it wont cost me more than £1 to post and I have no use for it.



#11 Endless Summer

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 11:24 PM

Ignore my post above - this is what I was thinking of! https://www.etis.for...eRegSelector.do

 

If you don't see a box for registration number, click on Home, Preferences, and change country to United Kingdom, then try again.

 

Lovely! I thought it was the 115. Is it wrong to be glad at a slightly more powerful block!?

 

Mondeo 2001-2007, Duratorq DI 2.0 CR (130PS), Stardust Silver (Metallic)



#12 FOCA

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 11:34 PM

Hi Foca,

 

It is a 5-speed manual, yeah. The air intake pipe seems to come up from under the engine directly into the EGR, couldn't see the intercooler, but it was getting late and snowing...

 

So did Ford simply switch the location of the EGR part way through the model run, or are models with rear EGR's near the turbo just the TDDI models?

 

I believe the blanking plate slots in between the EGR and the pipe running horizontal in front of the engine? 

 

Thanks!

 

Edit: Thanks again Foca. The hose looks tough to inspect without removing the EGR. Guess I can do this when cleaning out the intake manifold...

The front of the intercooler should be visible under the bumper viewed from the front, the outlet comes out on the left to the EGR/ manifold - if you remove the grille you can see the top of it

 

The Mondeo mk 3 TDDI (or DI) was made from 2000(1999really) untill 2002, the manuals all had 5-speed boxes,with DMF all the UK models were 115PS with a vp44 rotary pump and a tank- mounted (ocasional- high demand) lift pump, there was a 90PS (different injectors/ rotary pump/ no lift pump) version of the TDDI that was sold in Europe/ ROI - it had a solid flywheel (SMF), instead of a DMF

 

Some of the TDDIs / DIs had fixed vane turbos, some had VNTs, some had MAP sensors, some did not, some had a rear mounted EGR, i have been told some had the front mounted EGR but have never seen them

 

The Mondeo mk3 TDCI, was produced from 2000-2007, the early ones had 5-speed MTX75- boxes, later ones had the MT6 - 6speed box (mostly) all with DMFs

 

All the early TDCIs had 130ps engines, only after production of the TDDI ceased, was it replaced by a 115ps "budget" version of the 130ps TDCI 

 

All types of TDCIs were produced, seemingly randomly, fixed vane turbo/ VNT with punmatic actuator/ electronic actuator front mounted EGR / rear EGR etc its hard to keep track

 

Just read your post - yes the 130PS version was more likely in that age and configuration of mk3 TDCI, 

 

Are you planning any modifications or just want to get it running right?          



#13 Endless Summer

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 12:00 PM

Cheers Foca! Such detail...

 

First priority is to lose this flat spot and the smoke (Hopefull simply EGR problems or intake hose, fingers crossed).

 

In terms of mods, I would probably only go as far as a bigger intake and KN filter. Haven't looked into how this engine deals with more air. I've only ever owned LPG or Unleaded vehicles so the TDCI is all new to me. 

 

We bought the car to take us on a 5 month camping holiday around Europe, hence Endless Summer, so main priority is reliability and economy. But I wont say no to a little extra pickup, especially as we will be heading through Deutschland and their autobahns!!!



#14 FOCA

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 02:04 AM

Once you have sorted you problem -

 

The easiest, most cost- effective way of getting mode power is to fit -

 

A remap, (including a Bluefin) or a tuning box - the tuning box should give you a bit more bottom end than the BF, The BF  more top than the TB, both should give you significantly more power/ torque than stock (20-30hp) Superchips (Bluefin) claim 164Hp and 367Nm The Blufin costs £320 (special offer) a roveron Tuning box is about £200

 

A replacement airbox/ air intake (that outperforms the stock one) is not available for the MK3 diesel, you would have to modify the stock one or make one from scratch

 

A K&N cone filter under the bonnet just looses (a lot of) power, even an (encapsulated) BMC or venom was found not  to perform as well as the stock airbox, the airbox can be gas-flowed/ de-webbed and a larger inlet pipe attached, this is tricky as there is not a lot of space so i wouldent bother unless you really know what you are doing

 

Its highly debateable if a K&N or pipercross panel filter makes any improvement, often when someone buys and fits one, they notice an improvement because they are fitting a new, clean "performance" filter and replacing an old, clogged restrictive filter, even a cheap pattern filter (about £10) will outperform an old "performance" filter if it is new

 

Sometimes A K&N etc makes more noise - which can make the illusion of more power, (placibo effect)

 

People often fit K&Ns then forget to clean them, i fit a cheap paper filter and change it regular (at least once a year)

 

If the proper cleaning fluid is not used and the K&N properly oiled, it may restrict or filter badly, the oil can contaminate the MAF sensor

 

Even if you managed to flow more air it would not make any difference apart from the engine picking up a little better before the boost comes in and possibly make the turbo work a little less hard at full boost under a heavy load and may not increase the peak power/ torque because the compressor does most of the work, and the "bottlenecks" may be elsewhere (not the air filter element)

 

On balance you would be just as well leaving the air intake stock (after all, its the same as the 155PS 2.2ST-TDCI) and fitting stock or  pattern paper air filters regular (6-12months)

 

Turbo Resonator Bypass - on many of the early 2.0L TDCIs there is a "resonator" on the outlet of the turbo compressor,(plastic or metal) this can be removed and replaced with a short rubber/ silicone tube, this helps the engine pick up better at low revs, and even seems to help the top end on mine and probably helps the turbo work less hard - the resonator is supposed to quiet-en turbo noises down, (i don't notice any difference noise wise) - the bit of silicone hose is under £20

 

EGR Bypass - you can completely remove the EGR system and fit a special "bypass" (its about £60) to replace the valve/ housing, it is smooth on the inside so improves flow - the egr pipe can be removed and the cooler blanked at the back  - this improves power, economy and reliability

 

Larger Iintercooler - a larger intercooler can be fitted, the prices of then has come down and you can get a decent Chinese aluminium one for £80, or pay upto £300 for an Artech one, fitting a very large one may just add weight, and increase lag, and much of it is hidden uselessly behind the bumper anyway, fitting the right one has been found to improve performance, (mostly torque) and economy

 

Engine Breather Divert/ Catch Tank - the engine crancase "breathes" through a pipe  that is fed into the air intake just before the turbo compressor (for emmision reasons) this injects oily spray onto the insides of the boost hoses, and especially th intercooler where it condenses, when it hits the cool insides, it also contaminates the air in the boost hoses and mixes with the carbon deposits from the EGR system, forming an oily "goo" it gets worse as the engine wears/ gets older, its known to completely coat the inside of the intercooler (it must reduce efficiency/ performance/ economy )

 

An oil catchtank can be fitted between the engine breather outlet on the head and the inlet before the turbo compressor, it would reduce the amount of oil/ residue reaching the intercooler/ engine etc, if it was mounted in a cool place it would work even better, (oil spray would condense) - the outlet of the catchtank could even be vented to the air - it would need to be treated like another exhaust though

 

With the EGR blanked/ removed and the breather bypassed, only clean, fresh air should enter the engine, the boost hoses and the intercooler EGR and inlet manifold should stay clean once they were cleaned out (only if the turbo oil seals fail would these components become contaminated)

 

Exhaust - The mk3 Mondeo TDCI has a CAT, this can be switched for a decat, a stainless decat is about £100, it makes a significant improvement to performance, the decats are usually 2-1/2" the rest of the exhaust is 2-1/4" (including the downpipe/ flexi) its quite easy to do and you can heat- wrap the decat (and downpipe) before it is fitted, the exhaust - back-box is very restictive and can be replaced with a straight-through muffler or straight pipe, your car should have a middle silencer so does not really need the back- box

 

I think that just about covers it, others have done more, including serious lightening, AC delete, electric waterpump, adjustable  boost controllers, intercooler waterspray (upto 180HP 400Nm) or hybrid turbos (the stock one is not bad) bigger injectors exotoc fuel  (240Hp 500Nm ) (all 2.0L) and transmission upgrades to cope with the torque/ power  

 

For your trip a good service Oil/ filter change, fuel filter change (Ford or quality filters are best, cheap ones can cause problems) fresh air filter would be a good start - After the blanking plate/ service i would do the remap/ bluefin/ tuning box (all basically the same thing - squirts more fuel in) - this alone gives a useful gain,  then the resonator bypass, then the decat, then the larger IC then the back- box, the 2 plate "EGR delete" and breather catchtank are subtle improvements, but inexpensive, the other stuff mentioned is probably not worth the hassle, on balance 

 

Should give adequate power then for safe overtaking!                        



#15 Endless Summer

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:27 AM

"EGR Bypass - you can completely remove the EGR system and fit a special "bypass" (its about £60) to replace the valve/ housing, it is smooth on the inside so improves flow - the egr pipe can be removed and the cooler blanked at the back  - this improves power, economy and reliability"

 

Is this legal and will it pass a MOT. Is the extra work, when compared to simply cleaning EGR/Manifold and blanking, actually worth it? While it be nice to have the pipe removed, do you know of anyone comparing the two methods?

 

"Turbo Resonator Bypass - on many of the early 2.0L TDCIs there is a "resonator" on the outlet of the turbo compressor,(plastic or metal) this can be removed and replaced with a short rubber/ silicone tube, this helps the engine pick up better at low revs, and even seems to help the top end on mine and probably helps the turbo work less hard - the resonator is supposed to quiet-en turbo noises down, (i don't notice any difference noise wise) - the bit of silicone hose is under £20"

 

I'll look into this one too.

 

It's hard to justify too much ££'s on this car, even though I have quickly fallen for the TD engine! Always thought they were for buses and trucks..... little did I know :)

 

Thanks Foca.



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