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Endless Summer

Which Engine Is In My Mk3?!

32 posts in this topic

Can I check for inlet/turbo leaks by spraying propellant (Carb cleaner!?) in different areas and listening for engine idle increase?

Or am I stuck to listening for a whisle or visible leak only?

That might work on a NA engine -

(an NA "sucks" but a turbo "blows" :lol: )

after the compressor the boost hoses are under pressure so blow air out on a turbo engine so spraying anything on the hoses probably won't make the engine change note (this sometimes works on a NA because the carb cleaner may "find" and seal the leak) - you would need to see bubbles (as Sal has suggested in another thread- use soapy water) to pinpoint the leak, many of the boost hoses are out of sight, in difficult to reach places

Other forum members have a OBD11 - blutooth adaptor and torque ap running on an android phone, (probably wont work on your pre OBD11 car) to read the boost pressure

I have a mechanical 30psi boost gauge so i can keep an eye on turbo performance/ potential problems like lack of boost/ less than normal - i need it because i run an electronic adjustable boost controller - but its a handy thing to have anyway, its easy to hook up and costs from £30 online

Once fitted you could tell exactly how much boost the engine produces, and other things

Is the sound when you lift off? - won't be the boost hoses if so

Mondeo turbos are usually quite quiet and if there is a boost leak it usually sounds like a "hissssss" like a punctured tyre

If there is a "weee" sound on lift-off / over-run (eg - when changing gear) is more likely to be a leaky exhaust - check around your silencers

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That makes sense about the boost not sucking in then! There is no "whistle" until about 1600RPM and it continues while I accelerate. I can't hear anything upon changing gears, the whistle stops if not under acceleration.

Sounds like it will be tough to get to all the hoses without a jack and stands. I'll start hunting for a high curb to park up on so I can get to the hoses under the intercooler.

Plan of attack sounds like checking a leak on boost side hoses and maybe new hose clips!

Sorry for this thread turning into such a monster!


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I believe I've done the best visual and audio inspection I can on the turbo pipe system. Haven't been able to find any obvious leaks. New hose clips have gone onto the EGR/Intake hose, more due to the fact that the original hose clips were almost threaded.

I cleaned the MAF sensor with a cotton tip and carb cleaner. The central wire was clean with only the two horizontal wires having any visible carbon build up.

Did manage to find a small hose leading to from somewhere to the air intake on the other side of the MAF that was loose. The clip has simply come undone. Does anyone know what this pipe is for?


I've also been reading up about the turbo actuator arm on variable vane turbo's, which I believe I have. From what I understand, the arm should activate and move upon starting the engine. I removed the turbo heat shield and wasn't able to see any movement on the arm at all.

The vacuum hose did have a small slit where it was attached to the diaphragm, which I cleaned up by taking a 5mm off the hose. Confirmed that there is suction from the hose when engine running, but still no action on the actuator arm. I was considering trying to remove the small C clip that attaches to the arm and check the movement range but it was getting dark and to be honest I'm not sure how to remove it without it pinging off into the engine bay somewhere!

Should I be expecting to see movement on a vacuum operated arm, or have I got my "hoses crossed"!?

Pic below of the area I am talking about.


The more I get into this motor, the more useless this Haynes manual becomes! So far the only assistance it has given is for torque setting............

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The ist picture is of the breather hose (between the crankcase and the intake) its not critical (apart from it draws air not measured by the MAF sensor - it draws crankcase gasses anyway - that contaminate the intercooler/ mix with the carbon from the EGR)

Yes, you have a VNT (variable nozzle turbo) / variable vane turbo with a pnumatic actuator (so your engine will be Euro 3 compliant - ok to blank EGR with no problems- ive got a feeling of deja-vue here :) )

The ECU knows when you are in newtral and when the clutch is down, the actuator/ rod/ vanes may not work/ move unless the engine is under load (in gear, accelerating/ car moving)

Aw i feel sorry for the men at Haynes, the 5 speed and 6 speed box, the fixed vane turbos, the variable vane turbos with pnumatic actuator the variable vane turbos with electronic actuator, the different types of TDDI and TDCI,(different injectors/ ECUs on early cars) euro3 and euro4, front or rear mounted EGR valves, different boost pipe routing,the extra (middle) silencer on earlier cars (thats just the 2.0L diesel)

Then there is the completely different rear suspension design on the estate with different exhaust , the 2 different rear brake caliper/ pads designs (depending on year) then the 2.2 TDCI, the 1.8, 2.0Li 2.5 and 3 litre petrols then the pre/ post face lift changes, for example pre- facelift and post facelift seats are incompatible

There is at least 2 different Hanes manuals - it can be a bit confusing for me too and ive owned/ modified mk3 Mondeos (& mk1s and 2s- its a bit sad really :D ) for years so don't worry about it

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What's the best way to remove the C clip on the Actuator arm?

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You can get circlip pliers that work with the the type of circlips with the 2 small holes in them

i just use a small screwdriver, its "fiddly" and easy for the circlip to ping into oblivion or fall down the back of the engine never to be seen again, so if you can figure out a way of catching it/ holding on to it (long nose pliers/ a plastic bag under it )

Some of these jobs need the skill/ seady hands of a surgeon (which a lot of good mechanics seem to have)

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Finally found the cause of the whistling noise. The hose on the inlet side of the inter-cooler was pantsed.

New hose, new clip. No whistle and boost issue resolved. I didn't realise how much power I was missing until afterwards. It drives like a new car.

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