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Mad85

1.6 Tdci Loss In Power... Again!! :(

45 posts in this topic

 

Hi,

One of the possible causes for excessive carbon build up on the turbo oil feed pipe is the excessive where of the injectors washers (one is made of cooper and one of some sort of plastic). This leads to gasses escaping from the cylinder and contaminating the oil which, in turn, leads to the turbine running without lubtication.

I do not think I need to explain how bad this is (you will end up changing your turbine + lubrication system cleanup + two [mandatory] oil changes).
The louder injector noise, that you've noticed, might be generated in fact by the gasses escaping from the cylinder.

By the way do you also get exhaust gasses in to cabin?
You could check the turbine shaft status easily by removing the air duct between the air filter and the turbine. Try to move the turbine shaft and if you have any play then you are looking at a turbo rebuild/replace job.

Cheers,

Geos

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ffz, Thanks but the oil feed pipe is quite new and dont need to buy a new one. The problem is on the outside where I noticed the carbon buildup not on the inside. Sry for the confusion.

Geos, Thanks for the comments, I have been suspecting that my injector seals need replacing and had bought a set (actually for the 1.6 HDI but they are the same anyway). was thinking of doing it my self but reading on some forums I found that it would take the average diyer around 2 days work to get them sorted and since there is a lot of removing to get to them I was thinking of giving the job to a professional. Two questions - should I replace the fuel lines when I have the washers replaced? Also is it worth having the injectors cleaned "just in case" ?

By the way I had checked the turbine condition and there is a little side to side movement but I think its normal. There is no inside/outside movement. That said I need to make the actuator-movement test. If I find that the turbo needs rebuilding I think I will go for a new one. I found some pretty cheap genuine new ones on ebay for about £400.

Thanks a lot

Mad85

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Hi,

In my case there is no play on turbo shaft. I guess that some play will be acceptable as the shaft normally sets on a oil film.

1) should I replace the fuel lines when I have the washers replaced?

No need to.

2) Also is it worth having the injectors cleaned "just in case" ?

Ford does not recommend cleaning the injectors as this might lead to calibration issues. You should have them checked out by a specialist .

Cheers,

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Thanks a lot. I think I will have my mechanic have a look at the seals and replace them for me. I will also ask him to keep an eye on the injectors and if there is any carbon buildup in there

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Had another look and its clear the carbon is coming out from the turbo since there is a black patch on the turbo on the side where the pipe is (I sometimes clean the engine with some engine cleaner so i know it must have happened recently). Injector seals still in the plan though but I have a real possibility that I would require cleaning up the turbo.

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exhaust workshop told me that the CAT was quite dirty and decided to drill right through it! Remap should keep my vehicle MOT friendly!

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Car is same as before :angry: ... Thursday going to replace injector seals and after that thinking about the turbo and clearing the egr. Is it wise to just replace the turbo with a new one just because I suspect it on its way out? Dont really want to spend senseless cash but if it is really going, than it would be much better and cheaper to replace it before disaster happens. Car has done around 100k miles so its probably normal that it would be going???

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well i'm having similar probs... had new turbo and everything needed replaced- 2000 mile into new turbo i get bearing noise. garage have stripped and said bearing failed- oil pickup etc blocked yet again. replaced all under warranty- but had noticed that injector 3 is yet again leaking??? had all new seals- ehat causes this seal to leak all the time?

what i am after is when i get the oil changed, is the pickup filters easily accessable to change them too? this filter seems to be doing its job but getting blocked very easy?? obviously the leaking injector is causing the carbon issues -so that needs resolving 1st.

stressing me out big time this car..may just get rid and get a petrol engine instead!

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http://www.caparts.ru/ford/index/manufactur/ford

Use the above link to find the banjo bolt that holds the pickup oil filter.
Some have just removed this filter altogether.

It's amazing how PSA managed to fool so many with their engines .The same engine is used by Citroen,Peugeot,Ford,Mazada,Volvo,Mini.

Do the smart thing and change your oil ( and oil filter) every 5000 miles.
Also try to use higher revs (change gear above 2500 rpm) when driving in town.

Regards,

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OK! More about the progress of my Saga with this engine... Loss in power and rubbish economy (38mpg - used to get at least 43!). I have now

1.removed the catalytic converter

2.cleared the EGR

3.replaced injector seals.

Apart from that I had:

1. Used BG244 injector cleaner - might go for another can!

2. removed DPF

3. replaced a split intercooler hose

4. replaced the airflow sensor

5. had it remapped

The problem is that I dont feel the 'sudden' burst of power which I usually felt when I put down the paddle. It is also rubbish at taken off (actually stall it when I am not careful!) and its really rubbish with the AC on. I have heard that rising temperatures will affect economy and power but this much? Where I live it got up to about 34 degrees celcius. I only feel a slight improvement at night.

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unfortunately fella, that sounds like you might be suffering a blown turbo. First of all, disconnect the air hose and stick your finger in the hose - is it oily? if so you may be suffering an issue I also seem to have. If there is oil, stick your fingers in the turbo and try move the impeller, if you get a little bit of play (by the sounds of what Foca said in the issue I have) it could be expected as there is a little bit of play, but if you find that something doesnt feel right (a lot of movement, or damage) then you may be in need of a new turbo.

As to how you go about this, is your choice, I would personally recommend looking into getting an extended warranty on the car if you can find someone who will offer it. If the car goes pop in the coming months, it will most likely be covered, and you pay an excess, plus the total cost of your policy and you still save yourself hundreds of pounds!

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Thanks for replying!

Believe me if i were certain that the turbo needs replacing i would buy it right now but its not a cheap replacement.. not something i want to change 'just in caes' hehe. There is no play and there is oil in the hose but its normal due to the breather. What i think i am experiencing is sticky vanes of the variable geometry. Ill think about it. Might just get a new turbo after all...

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apart from changing it of course, is there a way of knowing for sure that the pressure converter needs replacing?

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Finally found some time to change the boost pressure regulator but it made no difference... I also have another problem with the car not starting at all/cutting out now which I am discussing in another thread! :(

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Can anybody tell me where the turbocharger boost pressure regulator valve is located on a focus 1.8 tdci please, im having similar problems, thanks.

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On the 1.6 tdci, its at the back of the engine. Best way to get access, just remove the under-shield and there it would be. But then again the 1.6 and 1.8 are completely different engine.

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Yeah, it's not the same as the 1.6, thanks.

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