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Whoosh, Pop Then Loss Of Power


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#16 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 12:35 PM

ok thats good. atleast your getting somewhere and its nearly fixed.



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#17 FOCA

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 12:37 PM

OK was up at the crack of dawn and check all the boost pipes for any splits. Couldn't see any so bit the bullet and put it all together and took it down my local indt garage. The guy kindly read my coeds and said they pointed to the Mass airflow sensor. He suggested that i disconnect it and see if it made any difference.

 

So I did. I then drove a small circuit around the local area and found that it pulled better (still not like it should and still way down on power). So I have ordered a new one and should be picking it up about 11.30 this morning.

 

The car has now warmed up, and is smoking like crazy!

 

The garage also spotted that injector 4 was leaking, and needed a new sealing washer. He suggested I get the washer ordered and they would fit it.

If there is loss of boost for any reason (split pipes, faulty actuator/ turbo etc) you will loose power and produce a lot of smoke (the same amount of diesel gets squirted in to the engine but not enough air)

 

This, and many other things, may not show up in fault codes, fault codes can be misleading, you may be lucky and the sensor is faulty, but the sensor may be working fine and the new sensor will read the same values

 

The ECU can often not determine whether a sensor is faulty or not, it may be a loose connection, or snapped wire, the sensor/ wires etc may be working perfectly, and there is another fault (eg not enough flow/ too much or too little  boost etc etc) that the sensor is reading like it should, - it always makes me concerned when a sensor is blamed for a problem, sometimes, the plug onto the sensor is loose or corroded, and fitting a new sensor seems to "fix" it but the old sensor was ok, and cleaning the contacts would have fixed it, (without paying for a new sensor)  

 

The exessive smoke is a bad sign (personally the 1st thing i would do is fit an EGR blanking plate (about £5) (stainless, solid), how much is a new sensor? )

 

As others have said in the forum, there is too much reliance on fault codes but that is just a handy tool and no substitute for knowlege & experience

 

Anyway i hope this fixes the car  

 

Just as a matter of interest - is it a VNT turbo , is the actuator a pnumatic one?

 

Is it a euro4? is the EGR pnumatic or electronic?    



#18 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 02:14 PM

I have changed the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the seal washer on injector 4 (cylinder 1). Less smoke now, only noticelable when changing gears, but engine limited to 3200 RPM and acceleration really slow.

 

Fault codes were cleared before last run, and have not come back.

 

@FOCA

I thought I had a garret turbo, but might be wrong. I think it's pneumatic as it seems to have a vacuum pipe to it. I think the car is Euro 4 and the EGR has a plug on it so guessing it's electronic.

 

So in conclusion the car is in limp mode with no fault codes!

Does it take a while before limp mode clears or does that have to be done at a garage?



#19 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 02:20 PM

Just read that disconnecting battery for twenty minutes can clear limp mode (ow er missus!). So see you in 30.



#20 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 02:22 PM

Alan,

 

i agree with Foca. i had a split hose once and this caused it to smoke  - i drove 120 miles to the outlaws like this once..could only fix it once i got there..in the frigging rain! duck tape to the rescue!

 

spray some soapy water on the pipes and get the car running to see if any new bubbles appear.



#21 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:00 PM

OK still in limp mode after battery disconnect for 30 minutes.

 

So current state is NO fault codes, but in limp mode. Smoke only when changing gears, and not that much just a puff or two.



#22 FOCA

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 04:57 PM

It might not be in limp (home) mode - it might just be lack of power without actually triggering "limp mode"

 

Does the glow plug light flash or stay on after you start the engine?

 

It would be good to know how much boost you are producing - you can pick up a boost gauge for under £30 online, a mechanical one is easy to set up/ connect i would get a 30psi one ballpark you shoul be producing 18-25psi

 

As Sal says spray some soapy water on the hoses - splits in the pipes can be hard to spot

 

If you are loosing boost the MAP sensor man now be reading it now and the ECU reducing the fuel = less fuel = less smoke but "no" power 

 

Is it really slow to pick up ("gutless")  

 

disconnecting the battery resets the ECU, this will knock it out of limp mode and resetting it also makes the ECU "start again from scratch" if you know what i mean  

 

How fast is the car flat out? does it go uphills? it could be a boost leak (some loss of power) turbo fault eg siezed vanes/ fault in the VNT / loads of other things including the EGR

 

is that the PSA engine? the one with the DPF? - Can you take some pictures of it  

 

If i were you i would order an EGR blanking plate (solid, stainless steel) it may fix your problem and it only costs a fiver.  

 

How much was the MAF? try the old one back on - might run just the same and you could get your money back or resell the new one   



#23 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:52 PM

Alan, if you have an android smart phone then get the torque app and the bluetooth obd2 adapter, this will let you check and clear fault codes and will also let you check various other things..and also boost pressure

 

http://torque-bhp.com/

 

https://play.google....wl.torque&hl=en

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ccfdc8012



#24 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:55 PM

@FOCA

You have given me  alot to think about, but I think it's limp mode becuase the revs rise to 3200 RPM, and then the power drops and the revs will not rise above 3200, but they are quite happy to sit there.

 

It is gutless on acceleration, but this would also be limp mode.

 

As for putting old MAF back on, I was toying with this idea, cost £90 inc vat, which was best price I could get.

 

My car is DPF.

 

As for turbo, the acctuator may have a problem. It might be sticking, I say this as when I disconnected battery earlier, I heard a definet clunk come from the turbo area. Should I be able to move the actuator fairly easily with a scre driver? Becuase I can. There is noticeable resistance, and could probably not do it with just my fingers, cant reach for one.



#25 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:59 PM

I do have a code reader the FF2 I think. It has live data, but not sure what I should be looking for, also absolutely peeing down at the moment, as it has most of the day.

 

I also have a modified ELM that is used with the Russian software. Only really used it to set the doors to auto lock!



#26 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:44 PM

fancy coming over to nuneaton...you can try out the bt adapter i have...we can se if the boost reading show?

 

i need a favour though...i have some fk rear led lights that need checking to see if they work...we could meet halfway if this is ok for you? i'm available most of the morning until about 1ish.



#27 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:06 PM

Thanks for the offer but unfortunatley I can't do tomorrow, and with car driving as it is I am reluctant to take it very far from home.

 

When you say you need to check lights? Do you mean you want someone to stand behind the car and say they come on!? Or am I miss reading your post?



#28 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:21 PM

i have a set of fk lights but when i bought them they said it fits 05 models onwards and they didnt work in my 08 model. as yours is pre facelift i thought i could try them to confirm they work or not.



#29 ajt

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:31 PM

OK, understand. Once I get my car sorted, I could pop over and you could try them. Would like to try your blutooth reader anyway.



#30 salsheikh

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:34 PM

cool mate, we will do that.



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