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katelyndon

Mondeo Rear Brakes

8 posts in this topic

hi everyone, need help again. we have just put rear discs on our 2003 mondeo 2.0tdi. we were told to line the cylinder up before puting it back together. bled the brakes before puting the hand brake cable back on, we were told to do that. now we have very spongey brakes and no hand brake.... any ideas, a self employed mechanic told us to do it that way...help please

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Sounds like there's either still air in the brake lines or the New discs you've fitted maybe aren't quite on right causing an imbalance in the braking system.

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hi everyone, need help again. we have just put rear discs on our 2003 mondeo 2.0tdi. we were told to line the cylinder up before puting it back together. bled the brakes before puting the hand brake cable back on, we were told to do that. now we have very spongey brakes and no hand brake.... any ideas, a self employed mechanic told us to do it that way...help please

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thanks, will have another look at the discs

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When you wind the caliper back in, there are two notches in the piston face. It's important to mention that on some calipers, the notches are different, while on others, both notches are the same. I had the latter ones, and all you have to do is line up either notch vertically in the caliper so it fits over the pin on the back of the brake pad. If yours has different notches, you'll need further advice from somebody who knows which way round they go.

When bleeding the brake lines, don't just stop doing it the first time fluid comes through with no air in it. I'm a bit "belt and braces" with brakes, so I normally give it at least 8-10 goes with no air coming through before I call it "done".

Handbrake - assuming everything else has been done properly, then you may need to adjust the hand brake, which is done from below the car. The adjuster is above the exhaust heat shield and you can normally get away with undoing the retaining screws and sliding the heatshield back, rather than trying to man-handle it out from around the exhaust.

One other point to consider - when winding the piston back in, the recommended way is to clamp off the flexihose, and undo the bleed nut. Apparently, depending who you talk to, forcing the fluid back up through the master cylinder can damage the internal seals. I've never heard of this happening, and a lot of other people will tell you the same, but it's just something to be aware of.

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The design of the rear calipers (and pads) changed it 2004, the pre 2004 ones had a reverse screw on one side

when you adjust the handbrake, make sure the lever(s) on the caliper(s) goes back to the stop(s), when the handbrake is down/ off otherwise you can damage the caliper(s)

the calipers/ pistons can corrode, by putting new discs on, it moves the pistons (and the handbrake lever) to a different position/ area, that can be "sticky" or sieze, the handbrake cables stretch, fray, wear and corrode, and the return spring stretches and the lever can become siezed/ "sticky",

Sometimes the best way to get the brakes/ handbrake working/ continuing to work - is to replace both calipers with refurbished ("new") ones and replace both handbrake cables (some have "twin" ones, some have 2 seperate ones) - they have to be replaced as a pair, as an old one will be streched and a new one isnt, and you cannot adjust them individually

Otherwise you may be "messing about with them" / unsiezing them with spray grease etc every fue days - the handbrake can sieze (the little lever(s) on the calipers) - i changed my rear discs/ pads, all seemed fine untill i smell burning after driving 3 miles into town, got out and found the offside rear wheel was hot and the brake was almost on fire, let it cool down and went under the car to push the lever on the caliper back, the amazing thing is i never noticed the extra drag- i had to use a little bit more throttle than usual but not much - most other cars would have stalled as soon i let the clutch out (derestricted/ lightened 400+ torques)

I managed to free the caliper (lever) off for a while by freemg it off/ moving it back and fourth with mole grips and spray grease - it would eventually sieze up again, when it did i just put it in gear (instead of using the handbrake) i even put a stronger/ extra return spring in it - eventually i just bought a new caliper (i plan to get a new one for the other side too)

Next time i might just throw it at a mechaic/ garage instead of doing it myself

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So glad the kid next door threw in his old haynes manual when he sold me his 52 plate 2.0l tdci.

The brakes and hand break needed attention, all sorts of probs n lots of faults. tick over lumpy, would stall pulling away, amber flashing glo plug warning.

So after reading lots of posts on here I gave it a service (engine) with all original ford parts n oil. Replaced cam and crankshaft sensors then fitted new/reconditioned rear calipers, new/paten hand break cables, old ones looked ok but were completly knackered and put in a "better than my old condition", from the breakers, hand break lever!

Well tickovers loads better, she leaps forward when i let up on the clutch now and the hand break is well on in three clicks but 2's fine. I love pulling that break on now ;) it was just so crap before. I left my old disks and pads on as the kid next door changed them last year n looked ok.

For me it was the best decision biting the bullet and changing the lot, yes it was cold n lonely out their but my Dad did it for us so we could go on holiday in a nice safe motor when we were kids, now I'm doing the same for ours. My girl's got good at helping bleed brakes (as I did too with my dad), still a bit stinggiee with break fluid only give a few pumps more, will try 12 from now on ;)

Good luck, it's well worth it,

patients and persiverance got me through.

And the thought of happy safe affordable motoring of course once I'd finished :D

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thank you all for your help, the brakes are a bit better, but i think it will soon be time to get a brake cable and then do front brakes which i hope will be a bit easier, thanks again

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