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Getting closer to a decision


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#16 MichellefromEssex

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 03:37 PM

We have had ours super guarded (which I suppose is the same) we got the pack from the dealer as part of our deal when buying the car for OH to do himself as he didnt want them doing it - just something he insisted on as he was being fussy lol. Here is the kit we got:

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#17 KeithC

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 05:21 PM

OK So I would like to clear this up once and for all...

The problem with solid paint colour is that it is relatively rough compared to metallic which has an extra layer of 'shine' which acts like a sheild... The sheidl has the shiney bits in which make the car metallic.

The frozen white is a solid colour, so does not have this sheild. This means grit and dirt can get into the small holes and gaps in the paintwork.

FORD do a package for 199.00 called something like pro-guard... which adds the extra layer to the paint to make it have the same residule effect at metallic. This greatly reduces the need to wax, polish and ESPECIALLY TCut the car.

Tuctting is for older cars, say 5 or 6 years old, and should only be done once every 2-3 years MAXIMUM! as Tcutting removes a layer of paint every time it is done. It should be done on one car no more than 3 times in its lifetime
.

So, to conclude cutting a new car is OUT! even if it is a solid colour. Adding Pro-Guard to a car (its added at factory build level) will make the paintwork as easy to care for as a metallic paint.

If the pro-guard isn't used then the solid colours will have to be polished regularly (by regularly I mean every few months, around 4 times a year).


The Pro-Guard i a very good option though as it saves time, energy and money in the long run and as solid paint is 500 cheaper than metalic you are still making a saving of 300 on the paint!

If anyone wants any more info on the pro-guard stuff tell me and Ill scan in the leaflet I got from the dealers today.


P.s. I'm going for white with the pro-guard. Pro-Guard also makes the paint alot more shiney and smoother too! Your local dealer will probably have a bonnet of a solid colour (mine was blue) which half had pro-guard and half didn't. The feel and look of the paint was amazingly better on the pro-guard'ed side.

Just food for thought guys :)


I take it the salesman told you all this just before he asked you did you want to spend 200 on Pro Guard?

All I'll say is, don't waste your money. Whether you take that advice, is purely down to you, but I'll just say, since when have salesman been experts in car paint. if you're happy to give someone 200 for something you could do yourself at a fraction of the cost, then that's completely down to you.

Using good quality waxes and sealants will do exactly the same, but yes, you'll have to use a bit of elbow grease.

By the way, the other side of that bonnet would have been just as smooth and just as shiny if it had a decent polish on it.

#18 KeithC

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 05:32 PM

For God sake dont use T-cut on metallic paint. Its too abrasive and will damage the paint let alone cutting compound. IMHO both should be retired to history. Meguiars clay and a decent polishing regime will mean you will never need to use anything as harsh as they are on any colour car.


That's all well and good, but, what if you can't afford a new car?

Clay and polish, ie one with low abrasiveness will not remove swirl marks, oxidisation or indeed offer any paint correction. Cutting compounds remove all sorts of paint defects and in the correct hands are a godsend for those who want pristine finish on their car. In the wrong hands, they can cause all sort of damage.

My advise would be, if you don't know what you are doing with the above, get someone in who does and they can get your finish as near to perfect as possoble.

#19 shabazmo

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 06:24 PM

For God sake dont use T-cut on metallic paint. Its too abrasive and will damage the paint let alone cutting compound. IMHO both should be retired to history. Meguiars clay and a decent polishing regime will mean you will never need to use anything as harsh as they are on any colour car.



I have been using T cut on my Audi once a year for over 6 years and 135K miles and many people have commented that the paitwork looks new. I can recall in the 70s and early 80s, there was talk of people using to much Tcut and spoiling their paint, but in those days, car paint was not as good as it is today.

Anyhow, I found a test from Auto Express magazine showing Collonite came out top. See link below.

http://www.autoexpre...olish_test.html

#20 JAR897

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 07:26 PM

I actually got the advice from an independant garage who deal with specilist paint jobs (the same garage I rang when I was concidering blacking my wheels). They gave me the low down on the addition of sealent, and said it would preserve the paint for a much longer time. They did advise getting it done myself. They offered me a pack for around 75, although I can find them cheeper on google.

However I then visited the dealer, who told me about the factory build version Pro-Guard. This does seem rather reasonable, as although the cost is 200 the solid paint is 500 cheeper, so I would still be paying less. Now I know this is a stupid way to look at it, but my theory is that I will (A) Do it wrong and (B) Its alot less hastle for me. Can anyone get the impression that i'm a lazy layabout student yet?

Anyway, that seems to be the choice of the moment. Of cause I will still wash and polish the beauty, but the adition of pro-guard will give me the added confidence boost I need to go for the white, as TBH the dirt factor has been an issue up to now, but no longer!

See my new post for details on the exact specification, names and Ordering dates!

Thanks everyone.

#21 Jonny87

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 08:31 PM

These guys have loads of good information etc on their site http://www.clean-image.co.uk/index.htm Personally I'm thinking of taking my fiesta down there when i get it to get jewelultra diamondbrite treatment, seems to be the way forward to me. Plus they will probably do a better job for less than the dealerships.


(i'm not advertising this company)

#22 hedgepig

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 05:58 PM

I've always found that "Mer" polish is very good at bringing out the shine in all types of paintwork and it also removes small scratches etc.

Like the rest of you, I've used this product on most of my cars and always ended up with a mirror shine on the paintwork but you have to use elbow grease to get that finish.

Supaguard is also OK--I got it free on my last car because of the hassle I had with it when it kept going back for rattles etc (it was an Astra TT)--but I wasn't keen as it meant I couldn't polish it.

No such problem there for you eh JAR897!!

Being a "lazy layabout student" that should suit you down to the ground! ;)

Never mind, you can use all the effort you will save on getting a good degree etc!

#23 Air Hostess

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 11:42 PM

I've always found that "Mer" polish is very good at bringing out the shine in all types of paintwork and it also removes small scratches etc.

Like the rest of you, I've used this product on most of my cars and always ended up with a mirror shine on the paintwork but you have to use elbow grease to get that finish.

Supaguard is also OK--I got it free on my last car because of the hassle I had with it when it kept going back for rattles etc (it was an Astra TT)--but I wasn't keen as it meant I couldn't polish it.

No such problem there for you eh JAR897!!

Being a "lazy layabout student" that should suit you down to the ground! ;)

Never mind, you can use all the effort you will save on getting a good degree etc!


I got to agree with hedgepig about MER I use to use it all the time,but I have gone to turtle wax ICE,its brilliant, pefectly clear liquid put on with a sponge (supplied) and removed with a special?cloth (supplied)not only does it do the paintwork, works on your alloys,and plastic. rubber infact i use it all over the car including the glass.........except the windscreen and rear window yeah I know ime a blonde, but not that ditsy..........takes less than 15 mins to wax the whole car, no white powder or dust left behind either and cleaning the alloys is a breeze now water and dirt just run off, no rubbing/scrubbing took the wheels off and waxed inside the rims too, (thats why i do the side glass, water just runs off) gets done every week,fully garaged,when ime here that is, actually waxed the thing while dinner was cooking to-night .

kristal

#24 JAR897

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 12:11 AM

I'm so hot for you right now.

#25 Air Hostess

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 01:26 PM

jar897 wrote
the reason I'm unsure of the colour is for this reason; If I get it in Sea Gray I will leave the wheels alone. However If I get it in White I will concider paying 30 per wheel (from an independant garage) to have them sprayed gloss black. The wheel's I'm talking about are the 17" 5-Spokes, which come with the Titanium X Pack.

I was all sure that that's what I wanted, but my dad said it looked rediculous, and I am in mixed minds. The theory is that when the WHITE car comes I can make a decision wether or not to get the wheels sprayed... However I don't want to make the wrong decision and order the wrong colour.

P-l-e-a-s-e dont spray the wheels black.........on a white car, eeerrrrrrrr no ........yyyyuuuuukkkkk your dad is right
dont ruin a brilliant new car by making it into a boy racer mobile......only my opinion.obviously the final decision is yours,no offence ment just someone looking at it from another point of view


best of luck with whatever you choose to do

Kristal

#26 JAR897

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 12:45 AM

Don't wory im not going to spray them black.. that was just a stupid idea lol.

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