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#31 Steelie600

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:57 PM

Oh and as to the LSD, youd be best just buying a Quaife unit for your box than mess with the RS box. Ive seen a few RS box's implode when theyre subject to big torque numbers. And it wont be geared right for your engine either. The RS is a lot higher revving than a diesel. 

 

Burton motorsport is the best place for Quaife, or Severn Valley motorsports. If your fairly tech savvy an LSD can be fitted in a weekend. Dont forget to do the clutch while your in there!! Youll kick yourself if the clutch goes 4 weeks after fitting the diff! Cos theyre not the easiest box to get off on the mk 3's



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#32 FOCA

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:37 PM

not read it all mate, but ive got the general gist of if.

 

But my opinion is defo that cams and porting to suit the type of power band you require has headway, but like you say its £££££ from then on in.

 

Im pretty confident that with a bit of research and tinkering I could machine some cams and alter the intake, the portings and Valves, and the exhaust I could spread the torque curve out.

 

Take for example the Le-Mans diesel cars, they are peak torque from 1200 rpm right up to 5000 redline, obviously they do have a peak, but massive usable torque all the way through, so it can be done. Its just tickling out the info from the raceteams so you know where to head with it. I think for what your asking of the engine the bolt ons and remap is the best course of action. But if your wanting much more we really should be looking at machining parts, standalone ecu's etc

 

Do you have a straight through exhaust?? or is it just a de-cat that you have?

Youve really got to read through it here is the "exhaust" spec (taken from the very 1st post) -

 


 

Exhaust -


 

2-1/2" SS heatwrapped decat -


 

gas flowed heatwrapped downpipe


 

Back- box delete


 

Straight - through 2-1/4" system with centre silencer


 

EGR delete on manifold


 

9.5kgs lighter - balanced for traction/ handling


 

To do - ceramic coat/ heatwrap the manifold which still has the stock heatshield

 

Basically its a 57mm/ 2-1/4" straight through system from the decat, there is a ("straight through")silencer in the middle  the downpipe had a ring of weld removed and was radioused where it comes out of the 2-1/2" decat, the decat has a (nessesary) bend in it but on this particular design of decat - it "turns down"/ pinches slightly, (not mandrel bent ) but this is not critical on the 63mm decat/ 57mm system, but i plan to get a better decat, 2-1/2" mandrel bent or bigger, and a 2-1/2" or 3" system  the centre silencer is probably quite heavy (estimated 10kgs) - i like the car to be fairly quiet (to go with the "sleeper" designation)

 

I know the larger diameter exhaust will help the turbo spool up quicker but is it liable to increase the top-end power/ revs as well?

 

I have dyno printouts with the power & torque curves - the peak power is just over 3600, if i could extend that to 4K / 4100,(without reducing the bottom end power) that would make a big difference       

 

tickover is at 900rpm and it can take full-throttle from 1000rpm (approx 30mph) in top, it accelerates from 30 to 100mph in under 27 seconds (safely off road!) in top gear, (or it did, its probably quicker than that now) and the 50-70mph in top has been timed at 5.5secs - there is not many cars on the road that can do that - i don't want to loose that ""never get cought out" flexibility + the car is much quicker "cross country" than its "on paper" figures suggest 



#33 FOCA

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:50 PM

Oh and as to the LSD, youd be best just buying a Quaife unit for your box than mess with the RS box. Ive seen a few RS box's implode when theyre subject to big torque numbers. And it wont be geared right for your engine either. The RS is a lot higher revving than a diesel. 

 

Burton motorsport is the best place for Quaife, or Severn Valley motorsports. If your fairly tech savvy an LSD can be fitted in a weekend. Dont forget to do the clutch while your in there!! Youll kick yourself if the clutch goes 4 weeks after fitting the diff! Cos theyre not the easiest box to get off on the mk 3's

The (Focus mk1) RS box is an MTX75, same as mine, my gearing is ridiculusly undergeared for the power + torque i have now, 1st is miles too low, its a Quaife ATB that is fitted to the RS box anyway ive a fair bit more torque than an RS so i might be better on slicks for drag racing and stick with the stock diff (to protect the gearbox)   

 

Ive fitted a carbon fiber/ kevlar clutch  with solid flywheel - (some tima ago, but the car has not done a big milage sinse then) -

 

From my 1st post - (on this thread) -  
 

"Trans -


 

Mtx75 5-speed 'box


 

Solid flywheel conversion, dynamically balanced SMF to replace DMF


 

Carbon fiber and kevlar clutch - Heavy duty - 33% stronger - sprung plate


 

Short shifter (stock gearstick shortened and travel reduced by repositioning the cables)


 

Torque restrictor defeat switch (beside gearchange)


 

No form of traction control / ESP protects trans from torque (de-ristricted in all gears/ at all revs)

 

i think you have to read through the build thread when you get time :lol: 



#34 Steelie600

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 11:08 PM

Ok so exhaust is fine, I wouldnt have thought like you say a wider bore would give anymore top end. Your pretty much sorted there. You do come accross pretty well clued up tbf.

 

Wasnt aware the RS was an MTX box (never really delved into them that much to find out tho). Would I be right in assuming the RS is 6 speed too?? Im just trying to think of ways we could increase the gearing of yours at a lower cost. Certainly buying an RS box could be cheaper, but then your gonna be really undergeared especially if the diesel geared box is undergeared now.

 

Just out of interest is the st220 box an MTX75?? Cos im thinking the lsd and final drive from that coupled to your gearing would lengthen the gearing a bit to bring your gears to a more useful quantity?? 



#35 FOCA

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 02:55 AM

Yes, all the mk3 Mondeos were MTX75 5-speed boxes from 2000 to about 2004(ish) including the petrol 4 cylinder models and the v6s (including the st220)  the MMT6 was available from about 2004, and was fitted to most of the mk3s, (petrols and diesels) it is reconed to be softer than the MTX75

 

The MMT6 was never fitted to the Mondeo MK3 TDDI (2.0 115PS), because it predates it (2000-2002) as far as i am aware, the RS Focus mk1 was never fitted with a 6-speed box, and only ever fitted with the MTX75 5-speed box (the RS mk1 predated the MMT6 box too)

 

The Focus ST170 had a 6-speed box, but it was not a Ford one, but from Getrag  the one with the dog-leg 1st

 

The ST220 has a 150mph top speed, but has a much higher redline than my diesel, the lower 130(ish) top speed (safely off road, of course) but lower revving diesel might mean the ratio in top is very similar

 

The gears may be stacked differently with the diesels closer on the bottom ratios and the petrols' closer near the top,

 

the gears are (roughly) 25, 40, 60(65),90(95) 130   to do my quarter mile, i could launch in 2nd, and let it rev out in 4th so i would only have 2 gear changes (although peak power is at 3600(for now) i could let it rev past this in 4th if im near the line) - its unlikely that i will get upto above 110 in the 1/4 mile and i don't need a higher ratio for the road, (though motorway cruising would be more relaxed, and economical - though the car hates motorways, and so do i ) so im happy its "restricted" to 130 ,(safely off road, of course)  

 

The dyno run was done in 4th - 3rd appears to have a similar powerband, but it revs higher is 2nd, and pulls til 4500, this could be just the lighter load in 2nd, or the effectively lighter flywheel (AC pulley and waterpump removed + the lighter car) meaning it revs through the band very fast and the turbo cannot produce boost fast enough giving it a rising poer characteristrict all the way to the redline, in 2nd - i found out it wanted to rev (and continued to pull) when i was practising launches/ timing my 0-60 - i got the 0-60 down to 7.1 (i know it sounds very slow, but an ST220 is not much quicker)

 

I can use different redlines in each gear, to maximise acceleration

 

I read that someone was preparing a GTR for drag racing, and had to leave the stock glass in the sides/ rear, to stay in a "street" class and if he fitted perspex, he had to run in an "open" "unlimited" class (against much quicker cars is there ant truth in this?)

 

I plan to run at a "run what you brung" it has different classes, FI (forced induction, can use nitrus etc) upto / above 2.0L NA upto / above 2.0L FWD / RWD/ awd / Unlimited, if you run nitrus on a NA it counts as FI, the cars don't have to be taxed / MOTd (as long as they pass scrutineering) you dont need to wear a helmet under 100mph, (if you need to it has to have the sticker RAC / FIA/ PMT? or whatever ) its very "clubby", the rules are fairly relaxed, you can run slicks, no problem, (or that "tyre melt" stuff, banned in some forms of racing)

 

Because of the relatively small no. of classes, i would be up against 300+ Hp <1000kg cars, (no chance of winning, even if it rains because mine is rubish in the rain too(mabee not if i had an LSD)) ironically, though the rules are stricter, there are more classes at "proper" drag racing at santa pod, i could even run in an "alternative (renuable/ eco) fuels" class with the veg oil, - Who knows - may even come back with some tinware for the mantlepiece :lol: - just kidding, i would be surprised if it did not come last, i just want to get a (some) 1/4 mile time(s) :)

 

PS - High speeds/ top end speed/ power is obviously not a priority                 



#36 Steelie600

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 09:45 AM

The gears may be stacked differently with the diesels closer on the bottom ratios and the petrols' closer near the top,

 

I think this is the way forwards, without researching I couldnt tell ya, but it holds weight with me. Sounds very feasable. As to drag racing regs, I have no idea, my knowledge is rally and circuit racing.

But getting the power down a bit better could shorten that 0-60 a fair bit.

 

You sound like your doing a grand job and im very interested in your results, and I dont believe for one sec youll come last. Give it a whirl you may be surprised!!



#37 FOCA

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 06:43 PM

Thanks for that!  

 

If i stick with the stock diff, it will save a lot of money/ hassle, i could fit tit-x 18s on the fronts (lighter than the ST ones) on the front and spacesavers on the back (saw it on a US car show) - only for drag racing though-  The strips are very flat and grippy compared to the road so i might bo ok with the tyre softener etc - at least the trans is less liable to explode on the line without the ATB diff  

 

I took the rear door skins off to weigh them, 2kgs each! and the speakers in the doors 0.7kg - i put them back on, - i worked out i can save 20kgs by changing all the glass from the drivers/ passengers door back for perspex, apart from the weigh saving  a lot of the weight saving is behind the rear wheels (helping traction) and high up (better handling) i can get smoked perspex, so they would be tinted (to a pro standard) without the expense of tinting   

 

Ive checked and have been told it can pass a UK MOT with the perspex but as mentioned before, may put it in a quicker "unlimited" class in drag racing



#38 FOCA

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 12:48 AM

MarkyR (on another thread on this site) said -
 

"" I was just reading some of your project thread FOCA, got to say I was a bit lost in it all haha. So what power in bhp does your car have at the mo then and what is it's 0 to 60 time? I'm guessing 6 to 7 seconds? And is it an estate or a hatchback? I couldn't see these facts in all the info you've posted so sorry if you have stated it all already. I was just curious as it looks like you've done tons to boost the performance whilst keeping your MPG "".

 

Thanks - most of the facts are there if you read it - It was measured at 160BHP in road trim running on diesel, at an initial 22psi and continuous 20psi, its interesting that a "180hp" ST-TDCI measured 135Hp at the wheels and my "160Hp" 2.0 produces 141Hp at the wheels  (the power that actually reaches the wheels is the one that matters, everything else is BS, really, because the 141 wheel Hp would be 190+ if measured the way the ST-TDCI was)  

 

About the 0-60mph -  

 

With all that torque going through the front wheels and  no form of traction control, wheelspin is a problem, 1st is far too low, and i have 2 gearchanges to 60, even if the conditions are perfect i get a different 0-60mph time each time, depending on the amount of clutch slip/ wheelspin - im working on improving the traction - its quicker than a (stock) ST-TDCI 0-60, my next target is getting it quicker than an ST220 (0-60mph and 1/4 mile)   

 

i set up the adjustable tuning box and boost controller by timing the acceleration, then i discovered about an indicated 65 was actually 60mph, so none of my figures were accurate, but to compare the old figures to new (to know how much its improving) i had to carry on using the same (inaccurate) methods of timing - if/ when i go to a drag strip, the timings will be accurate    

 

So I just put the 0-60 as a conservative "under 8 seconds"



#39 FOCA

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 11:44 PM


 

huey45 , on another thread, said -  


 

Hi I read your article on your extensively modified Mondeo
and being honest I was totally baffled in some items you
described you must be very knowledgeable or clever
also what you have done must have cost a small fortune

I have heard that a free flow
air filter will help with a little HP gain
and possible water injection into intake manifold downstream of
air filter
to make incoming air a lot more dense..my focus goes like stink
on a very wet day, but I chicken out on lack the of road grip.....LOL

 

 

FOCA's reply -

 

Thank you -  a lot of the stuff was taken from various forms of motorsport, or things that are popular on modified cars in other countries, or on petrol turbo cars etc and were not my idea (a couple were my idea though)

 

It was not as expensive as it seems, when something needed replaced (eg the exhaust or the DMF) it was replaced with a better one often for about the same/ just a bit more than a stock one

 

Yes, traction in the wet can be a problem on a front-wheel-drive car   



#40 Jos7000

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 03:09 AM

When you did the AC delete and used a shortened belt, which belt did you use? :-)



#41 FOCA

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 10:21 PM

When you did the AC delete and used a shortened belt, which belt did you use? :-)

I did the AC delete a couple of years ago, i bought loads of different belts before i found one that fitted, i forgot which one it was.  



#42 FOCA

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 10:43 PM

Finally fitted the electronic controller for the electric waterpump, had to make a special adaptor for the sender

 

still switch the controller on manually 'till i see how i get on with it - seems much better tha having to keep switching the manual switch off/on as the temp goes up/down (thats with the thermostat in)  

 

Plan to fit a lightweight radiator fan - the pump controller  

 

Also rewired the water temp/ voltage modules so i can switch them off and they start on volts/ temp without having to "fiddle" with them

 

Used the switch that used to be used for the torque restrictor defeat for operating the boost controller (its beside the gearshift and im going to see if i get quicker launches with low boost ) - only use the torque restrictor defeat for ice/ snow anyway

 

Got lots of little things to do and plan to get as much done as possible while the weather is good & i have time 



#43 Gombal

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 08:24 PM

Awesome thread with awesome mods! Very informative too, gives me a few ideas ;) .

Wish Ford had fitted a TDDI in my Fusion so i could also run veg. oil, used to run it in my Benz and liked the smell of it :) .



#44 FOCA

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 10:37 AM

Update -

 

I MOTd the car recently - i always had trouble with the rear brakes /handbrake and last year i gave it to a mechanic to fix,(i hate working on brakes (or gearboxes!)) he replaced one rear caliper and brake caple and it got it through the last MOT but did not work well and kept sticking on - so i just parked the car "in gear"  

 

So before the MOT i replaced the rear caliper on the other side and both handbrake cables (they tend to get stretched and its best to replace them as a pair)

 

So with 2 new handbrake cables, and a new rear caliper, and a year-old one (its incredible how rough it looks after just one year!) i reconed i could get the handbrake working nicely

 

1st i fitted the new caliper,- i clamped the flexi cable and fitted it on, then bled the system - and the (foot) brakes worked well with this

 

When i was under the car i noticed the rust underneath - i kurust and hammerite under the car every couple of years and the hammerite paint was flaking off because it was rusting under that (the rust was not that bad- it dir not require welding etc)

 

To cut a long story short i knocked all the old loose paint off the underside of the car (and suspension and wheel wells ) with a small hammer, wire-brushed it, de-greased it (with detergent) by hand with a scrubbing brush rinsed it and kurust-ed the lot - so now there is no visible/ surface rust on the underside of the car, at all/ it looks black - and next time it should be a lot easier

 

I fitted the handbrake cables, the levers on the calipers go back to the stops (apparently if they don't it can damage the helix inside the calipers and the handbrake auto-adjust does not work(the caliper pistons have to be unwound a certain way too))  i got them all nicely adjusted and then tied the cables up nicely using cable ties (so they did not hang down like they used to) andv i re-routed the cable(s) slightly to keep it away from the heat of the exhaust (this had meler the plastic on the old cable)

 

So the underside was completely rustproofed and the handbrake worked perfectly for the 1st time in years

 

I had also refurbed all wy wheels (got loads) including de-greasing, preparing and  rustproofing and painting (outside and in) all my steelies - i through out some old, worn tyres and replaced them with some i had bought on ebay last year - some turned out to be "lemons" and could not be used, and one if my rims had a split on it - so i have less spares than expected - still plenty though, and it will be a while (probably a couple of years) before i have to buy new tyres

 

I had bought new front discs/ pads as as set (stock genuine Ford) and rear discs/pads in previous years, so they were good, - i considered upgrading them (EG- Focus st225 are bigger front discs) but this would add weight and MK3s all have the same brakes (including the 150mph ST220) and with the car bieing lightened 150kgs the brakes work well (and i dont have a "heavy braking driving style - i like to keep the momentum up- that and the lightness is probably why the brakes seem to last)

 

I had spent weeks under the car, rustproofing it etc, so i decided to stick the car in for the MOT, to see what it needed, -to my surprise,  it passed 1st time with just a couple of minor advisories (the tester was probably distracted to see a 10+ year old car with an immaculate underside :lol: )

 

I bought and fitted the electronic temp controller (for the electric waterpump) the engine  warms up quicker now, and seems to be faster too (and probably has a better MPG) 

 

Now its MOTd i can get on with the serious modifications!                   



#45 DanGersFord

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 10:50 AM

Just goes to show you if you want a job done right, do it yourself lol

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