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Lenny
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  • 4 weeks later...

hi
i am planning somebody to do this for me on a fiesta mk6.5 1.6tdci
i have ordered the blanking plate with the hole in it since i have read somewhere that the egr is monitored by the ecu
so hoping not to get any lights on the dash
so how do you put the plate ? does it matter which way because it is not equally identical on all sides
i understand there should be a washer/gasket that should be on the engine side so the plate goes in the middle between the washer and the egr valve right ?

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The ones with a hole in are a waste of time.. pointless

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The ones with a hole in are a waste of time.. pointless

www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies

you have tested this yourself ?

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No but several other members have.

You're trying to BLANK the EGR. By fitting a plate with a whole in, you're not BLANKING the EGR. Fit a solid one, and when the eml light comes on, leave it for a while. They often turn themselves off once the system has adjusted itself. Try clearing the fault codes and see if they reappear.

If not, its an excuse for a remap :)

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Logic dictates. The point of the blanking plate is to stop the flow to the egr in leaving a hole your allowing the exhaust gas through. Some bright spark thought it would stop the eml, which in a lot of cases it does, however, it's a fruitless exercise

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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+ 1 . . . . A blanking plate with a hole in it is not worth fitting

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If I've got that right the latest comment is a year old - a hole in a blanking plate serves only one purpose & that is to possibly prevent the EML illuminating & is completely counterproductive

Sooner rather than later the hole will clog with carbon & until then gases will still enter the EGRV & inlet manifold

The reason to fit a blanking plate is to prevent ALL the recirculated exhaust gases clogging up the EGRV & inlet manifold & gradually destroying the engine / turbo.

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My Mk.6 fiesta 1.4 is holding up well after a couple of thousand miles.

No eml warning lights and I used the full blank.

It's much more responsive through the gears too.

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My Mk.6 fiesta 1.4 is holding up well after a couple of thousand miles.

No eml warning lights and I used the full blank.

It's much more responsive through the gears too.

pre-facelift or facelift ?

what are the chances that the car will go limp mode if it detects irregularity

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'07'

I had eml's from faulty injectors (long story check back on this thread) but since replacement it's been fine.

If you have no eml's to start with then it should stay that way with the full blank.

The EGR (engine gunking and ruining valve) has, I believe, a censor of some sort, so providing it isn't currently tripping the eml then you should be ok to go ahead.

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The EGR (engine gunking and ruining valve)

Love it !

Sums up this useless piece of EGRV crap perfectly :)

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pre-facelift or facelift ?

what are the chances that the car will go limp mode if it detects irregularity

Same engine, different looking body parts

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Lol love the redefinition but eml itself is only a light it's highly unlikely to throw it into limo mode.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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  • 4 months later...

Lenny hi! Great guide and thank you for your time to write this mod! I have a question about blocking egr and a remap! I have ordered a plate from the first post from yours and waiting to arrive! I have found a mechanic here to remap my focus and i was curious that if i have first wait and install the plate and do next the remap or go for the remap first and install the plate later! I don't know if i do remap first and install the plate later will affect the performance of my car and the new remap will be a waste and it will need again a new remapping to be done with egr blocked to see better results or it won't affect it after all and go for it and do remap and that plate isn't affecting remapping performance? (I don't know if the mechanic can deactivate completely egr from ecu) Sorry for my bad English!

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2 hours ago, s_mduck said:

Lenny hi! Great guide and thank you for your time to write this mod! I have a question about blocking egr and a remap! I have ordered a plate from the first post from yours and waiting to arrive! I have found a mechanic here to remap my focus and i was curious that if i have first wait and install the plate and do next the remap or go for the remap first and install the plate later! I don't know if i do remap first and install the plate later will affect the performance of my car and the new remap will be a waste and it will need again a new remapping to be done with egr blocked to see better results or it won't affect it after all and go for it and do remap and that plate isn't affecting remapping performance? (I don't know if the mechanic can deactivate completely egr from ecu) Sorry for my bad English!

Hi John, Thanks, 

If the remap is being done specifically for your vehicle on a Dyno rolling road; then your best blanking the egr before remap for best results.

But if the remap is downloading a file to your ecu, then it doesn't matter if you blank before or after remap.

Electronic egr valve delete is an option but it causes a judder every 30 seconds when engine is running in parked position etc.

Mechanical blanking using the guide is best and also cheaper.

I'm not linked to any sellers of the blanking plates I only advise to purchase a stainless steel plate which linked seller supplies 👍

Blanking will reduce turbo lag slightly and lower carbon emissions, however the main reason for blanking the EGR valve is to prevent exhaust has recirculation; which heavily contaminates oil with carbon leading to blockage in turbo oil free pipe causing catastrophic turbo failure. 

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On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 6:25 PM, GingerFlame said:

Same engine, different looking body parts

Like sister-in-laws 😀

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On 20/5/2016 at 0:01 AM, Lenny said:

Hi John, Thanks, 

If the remap is being done specifically for your vehicle on a Dyno rolling road; then your best blanking the egr before remap for best results.

But if the remap is downloading a file to your ecu, then it doesn't matter if you blank before or after remap.

Electronic egr valve delete is an option but it causes a judder every 30 seconds when engine is running in parked position etc.

Mechanical blanking using the guide is best and also cheaper.

I'm not linked to any sellers of the blanking plates I only advise to purchase a stainless steel plate which linked seller supplies 👍

Blanking will reduce turbo lag slightly and lower carbon emissions, however the main reason for blanking the EGR valve is to prevent exhaust has recirculation; which heavily contaminates oil with carbon leading to blockage in turbo oil free pipe causing catastrophic turbo failure. 

hi lenny thanks for your reply! I've talked to my mechanic he's gonna make the remap on a dyno! i told him about blocking the egr with the plate and he said me that he downloads the base map specific for my car and then he builds it on the dyno. he said also that the base map comes as oem specifications for example with egr ok and dpf on and i shouldn't install the plate as it may occurs problems with the under pressure  (if I'm saying it right ) while he remaps! what do you think? 

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56 minutes ago, s_mduck said:

hi lenny thanks for your reply! I've talked to my mechanic he's gonna make the remap on a dyno! i told him about blocking the egr with the plate and he said me that he downloads the base map specific for my car and then he builds it on the dyno. he said also that the base map comes as oem specifications for example with egr ok and dpf on and i shouldn't install the plate as it may occurs problems with the under pressure  (if I'm saying it right ) while he remaps! what do you think? 

I'd follow his recommendation of not blanking until after he is done remapping encase somthing goes wrong with his alterations he can't then blame you.

Overall id say the main thing is; 

He knows where he stands with a completely standard base map. And can adjust that accordingly👍

As we know; blanking the egr valve slightly increases exhaust gas flow and reduces lag; this will adjust the dyno graph figures and possibly confuse him a bit when adding his perimiters for remapping.

Bottom line;

id just hold off on blanking until he is done remapping, and if he does electronically delete the egr valve; id still physically blank it because a bump in the road could cause the dead valve to open permanently if not physically blanked aswell then it could constantly contaminate the oil.

If you can get your hands on a K&N57s Induction kit I highly recommend it for performance too 👍

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thank you lenny! i already have kn e2993! let's see next week how it will go! until then i'm holding the plete for later installation!

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5 hours ago, s_mduck said:

thank you lenny! i already have kn e2993! let's see next week how it will go! until then i'm holding the plete for later installation!

No problem,

Keep us posted on results 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I've done the remapping i got 121hp and 31tq and i think i will install next the plate! Has anyone seen increase on fuel consumption with the plate?? Is it worth it after remapping? And on focus tdci 2011-2012 where is the mounting point I've found some pics from my egr i think is this that one with red circle and those two bolts that has to come loose??

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Hi Lenny

Not sure if you're still getting notifications to this discussion, but I thought I'd try and get hold of you through it anyway.

You gave me some advice about blanking the EGR valve when I posted a discussion about my Focus 1.6 TDCI stuttering when cruising. Well I've blanked the EGR valve as per your guide, I also fitted a K&N high performance filter, gave the car a oil flush, and fuel system a flush as well, and the results are dramatic. Definitely more performance, hardly any turbo lag, improved torque, fuel economy seems better, an increase in engine noise, basically all the things you said would happen when doing these jobs. A great guide and well happy with the outcome.

I do have one issue though, I keep getting the engine management light come on. I can reset these codes before a journey, and the engine management light won't come on whilst travelling. I turn the car off and all seems well, until I start the car again, then the management light will come back on after about 5 seconds of the engine running from start up. The fault codes that come up are as follows:

P0487 (Exhaust gas recirculation throttle position control circuit), P0488 (EGR throttle position sensor circuit out of range) and P2142 (Exhaust gas recirculation throttle control circuit "A" high)

Do you know if these codes are related to blanking the EGR valve, or something else? Also, will these eventually stop coming up, or will I have to live with it whilst the blanking plate is in place? Is there a way that I can stop these fault codes permanently?

Any help regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

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31 minutes ago, bigshorty said:

Hi Lenny

Not sure if you're still getting notifications to this discussion, but I thought I'd try and get hold of you through it anyway.

You gave me some advice about blanking the EGR valve when I posted a discussion about my Focus 1.6 TDCI stuttering when cruising. Well I've blanked the EGR valve as per your guide, I also fitted a K&N high performance filter, gave the car a oil flush, and fuel system a flush as well, and the results are dramatic. Definitely more performance, hardly any turbo lag, improved torque, fuel economy seems better, an increase in engine noise, basically all the things you said would happen when doing these jobs. A great guide and well happy with the outcome.

I do have one issue though, I keep getting the engine management light come on. I can reset these codes before a journey, and the engine management light won't come on whilst travelling. I turn the car off and all seems well, until I start the car again, then the management light will come back on after about 5 seconds of the engine running from start up. The fault codes that come up are as follows:

P0487 (Exhaust gas recirculation throttle position control circuit), P0488 (EGR throttle position sensor circuit out of range) and P2142 (Exhaust gas recirculation throttle control circuit "A" high)

Do you know if these codes are related to blanking the EGR valve, or something else? Also, will these eventually stop coming up, or will I have to live with it whilst the blanking plate is in place? Is there a way that I can stop these fault codes permanently?

Any help regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Paul, 

Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad you blanked the egr valve because those fault codes are indicating that your egr valve is stuck in a permanently open position; this would cause rough idle and eventually kill your turbo has you not blanked it. 

Now that it's blanked these faults show that it's open and closed perimiters were not correct. Meaning it was still open when the ecu wanted it closed. 

The only way to permanently remove these errors is to either replace the egr valve which also involves installation of software on to the ecu in order for the ecu to communicate with the replacement 

OR

contact a local tuning company to have the egr electronically deleted from the ecu.

this ends all communication between the egr and the ecu, I've heard from others whom has this done say it causes a slight bidder every 40 seconds when car is running idle but it is a cheaper option compared to replacing an egr valve which is blanked anyway. 

Some owners only choose electronic delete and dont bother blanking, this is not recommended as the dead valve can still open by itself through vibration, so if electronically deleting you should still blank it off.

hope this helps mate, in my opinion you have really saved your turbo and dpf there as it would have caked up and blown within six to eight weeks driving average 40 miles per week. 

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