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522 posts in this topic

Thanks Lenny for quick and professional reply! Now I've got a peace of mind and I can enjoy my EGRless Focus! :)

No prob mate,

I recommend using the AtomEx TotalFlush on next oil change to flush out the carbon from the once active EGR.

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

Atomex_Total-Flush-250x250_zpskhiykv07.j

Also when funds allow;

I recommend upgrading the induction filter to a Green Cotton or a K&N57s induction kit,

See guide and discussion here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

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No prob mate,

I recommend using the AtomEx TotalFlush on next oil change to flush out the carbon from the once active EGR.

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

Atomex_Total-Flush-250x250_zpskhiykv07.j

Also when funds allow;

I recommend upgrading the induction filter to a Green Cotton or a K&N57s induction kit,

See guide and discussion here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

Thanks for the tips mate. Oil change is coming next and I was already looking that cleaner. Is there any disadvantages or risks that it may harm the engine in any way? I have heard bad things about these kind of "oil additives". Of course this might be a different thing because it's just prior to oil change. But still I'm a little skeptic... :blink:

Also good idea to change the induction filter. There are huge temperature changes in Finland, so cotton type filter might work better than the paper one. And the price isn't that bad either.

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Thanks for the tips mate. Oil change is coming next and I was already looking that cleaner. Is there any disadvantages or risks that it may harm the engine in any way? I have heard bad things about these kind of "oil additives". Of course this might be a different thing because it's just prior to oil change. But still I'm a little skeptic... :blink:

Also good idea to change the induction filter. There are huge temperature changes in Finland, so cotton type filter might work better than the paper one. And the price isn't that bad either.

I used to use wynne's engine flush 15 minutes before draining the oil

Until i learned that its strips oil completly from parts causing a period of time where there is no oil coating them.

This AtomEx Total Flush works differently,

It goes in to the oil a few days/miles before having the oil drained,

It breaks down carbon deposits and disolves varnish while coating all parts and imperfections with a thin protective nanotec ceramic coating which helps protect parts from wear aswell as ensuring your oil pump works smoothly.

I use it prior to every oil change.

If in cold conditions then the Green Cotton Induction filter is best,

Diesel doesnt like it too cold as it turn to wax a bit.

So keep away from K&N57s and go for a Green much better for your engine than stock.

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Hi my name is Vasilis from greece .You have a very nice forum!!!

I have focus 1.6 tdci 2005 109 kw and have fitted a blanking plate in a working egr valve following the detailed guide you have without problems.

Ever since, when my car is getting warm in normal temperature i am expirising jutter in idle and after long drives is getting more and more difficult to start from stopping and the sound is like my car is choking. I made the plate myself from stainlless steel and thickness is about 1.5 mm.

Can you please help me

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Is the blanking plate solid ? with no hole in it ?

Is the plate an airtight / gas tight fit ?

When was the fuel & air filter last changed ?

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Is the blanking plate solid ? with no hole in it ?

Is the plate an airtight / gas tight fit ?

When was the fuel & air filter last changed ?

No holes in plate its solid.How can i determine if its airght/gas tight fit?The fuel and air filter was changed before 15.000 km

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Hi my name is Vasilis from greece .You have a very nice forum!!!

I have focus 1.6 tdci 2005 109 kw and have fitted a blanking plate in a working egr valve following the detailed guide you have without problems.

Ever since, when my car is getting warm in normal temperature i am expirising jutter in idle and after long drives is getting more and more difficult to start from stopping and the sound is like my car is choking. I made the plate myself from stainlless steel and thickness is about 1.5 mm.

Can you please help me

hi,

Blanking the EGR has no negative impacts atall.

What condition is the dpf in ?

The symptoms of choking would indicate restricted flow of either:

Fuel

Air

Or outward waste gasses,

Now the fact these symptoms arose after blanking the EGR valve would point towards the dpf chamber is restricted.

The active EGR before blanking would have recirculated up to 20% of the waste gasses back in to the induction

this would disguise the restricted dpf because pressure flowing through the exhaust would be reduced

where now after blanking; pressure flowing through the dpf is 100% waste gasses as it should be,

But if dpf is becoming restricted with carbon then this creates back pressure which left untreated will kill your turbo and had you not blanked the egr it would have caked up your oil sump.

ultimately I recommend gutting the dpf chamber and having it remapped with the empty chamber back in place.

Image2317_edit_1439926412491_zpsr2jyhmie

However a cheaper alternative would be to try some fuel additives,

Some AtomEX MultiCleaner would clean the fuel tank right through to the exhaust,

Available here: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=26

IMG_20150717_091643_zpsoixfq7gn_edit_143

IMG_20150717_091611_zpsjxdfrmbq_edit_143

Put in tank along with 40litres fuel,

Take on motorway for 10minutes in 3rd Gear then 10 minutes in 4th Gear to help clear the dpf

it needs consistent heat and pressure to unblock the dpf.

For optimum results change fuel filter after additives.

Keep away from Redex products as they strip oil from parts causing excessive wear, AtomEx cleans and protects with a micro ceramic layer to fill minor scratches and cavitation

Second thing is upgrade your induction filter to Green Cotton induction or K&N

see guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

Because after blanking the egr valve:

the engine now sucks in 100% clean air rather than 80% air and 20% gasses

the demand for air is now increased so a smoother flowing filter is best and lasts 80,000km longer than the stock filter.

Finally then to flush out the carbon from the engine oil I recommend AtomEX EngineFlush as linked in the guide on page 1

it will remove the carbon from oil sump caused by the once active EGR.

link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

IMG_20150818_101223_zpse2zqtqbd_edit_143

IMG_20150818_101233_zpsel0vsuum_edit_143

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hi,

What condition is the dpf in ?

The symptoms of choking would indicate restricted flow of either:

Fuel

Air

Or outward waste gasses,

Now the fact these symptoms arose after blanking the EGR valve would point towards the dpf chamber is restricted.

The active EGR before blanking would have recirculated up to 20% of the waste gasses back in to the induction

this would disguise the restricted dpf because pressure flowing through the exhaust would be reduced

where now after blanking; pressure flowing through the dpf is 100% waste gasses as it should be,

But if dpf is becoming restricted with carbon then this creates back pressure which left untreated will kill your turbo and had you not blanked the egr it would have caked up your oil sump.

ultimately I recommend gutting the dpf chamber and having it remapped.

However a cheaper alternative would be to try some fuel additives,

Some AtomEX TotalFlush would clean the fuel tank right through to the exhaust,

Available here:

Put in tank along with 40litres fuel,

Take on motorway for 10minutes in 3rd Gear then 10 minutes in 4th Gear to help clear the dpf

it needs consistent heat and pressure to unblock.

Second thing is upgrade your induction filter to Green Cotton induction or K&N

see guide:

Because after blanking the egr valve:

the engine now sucks in 100% clean air rather than 80% air and 20% gasses

the demand for air is now increased so a smoother flowing filter is best and lasts 80,000km longer than the stock filter.

Finally then to flush out the carbon from the engine oil I recommend AtomEX EngineFlush as linked in the guide on page 1

it will remove the carbon from oil sump caused by the once active EGR.

An alternative if you've deep pockets is Terraclean :)

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

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It is highly unlikely that the blanking plate is causing this issue, is the EML illuminating ?

Is the hose that runs from the intercooler to the EGRV intact & fitted tight on the EGRV ?

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An alternative if you've deep pockets is Terraclean :)

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

TerraClean is an alternative option to flush through the dpf instead of AtomEX MultiClean

However TerraClean won't clean out your oil sump.

the TerraClean processes only cleans out the fuel rail injector system, exhaust and most thougherly your pockets :)

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Hi,

Newbie question, I have a 1.6 tdci zetec cmax, 2005 with no Dpf fitted. Recently bought the car, 151,000 miles. Runs well so far, no lights or codes.

Would I see a improvement or benefit on fitting a blank, and would I need a reset or mod to stop any errors?

Thanks everyone!

Alistair

Devon UK

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Hi,

Newbie question, I have a 1.6 tdci zetec cmax, 2005 with no Dpf fitted. Recently bought the car, 151,000 miles. Runs well so far, no lights or codes.

Would I see a improvement or benefit on fitting a blank, and would I need a reset or mod to stop any errors?

Thanks everyone!

Alistair

Devon UK

Hi Alistair welcome to the forum,

You would definitely benefit from blanking the egr valve,

No errors will show up,

Your mpg will increase,

Turbo lag reduced,

And your turbo will last longer than expected,

I recommend using the oil flush on next service as linked above as well as induction filter when funds allow too.

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It is highly unlikely that the blanking plate is causing this issue, is the EML illuminating ?

Is the hose that runs from the intercooler to the EGRV intact & fitted tight on the EGRV ?

I think this the problem .The clamp that was holding the egr with the hose from the intercooler was hard to put it back .I may have damaged it.

thanks. I ll have a look.

can you propose a good clamp?

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A sturdy jubilee clip will work

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A sturdy jubilee clip will work

Mine is like this.%7B8F8A4004-1670-4FC1-B600-D4E09E4B5362%

but i think this the best i1.jpg

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One that can be tightened with a screw coil would be better

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Ok thanks i give it a shot

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Hi Alistair welcome to the forum,

You would definitely benefit from blanking the egr valve,

No errors will show up,

Your mpg will increase,

Turbo lag reduced,

And your turbo will last longer than expected,

I recommend using the oil flush on next service as linked above as well as induction filter when funds allow too.

Hi Lenny,

Thanks very much for the reply, I'll look into more detail the items you mention, and I'll look to doing it for the next service. I have just had oil, filter, fuel filter just changed.

Not had the car for long, seems OK. Nice to drive, though leaking into drivers footwear, not air conditioning tube, suspect shuttle panel as is loose where it meets the glass.

And the tailgate leaks... Seems like standard cmax faults, will search up on the forum when I get back home - currently having a siesta, on our hols in Mallorca. Looking at the weather in Blighty the footwell will be very wet again on our return, hopefully the cmax will be ready to go on our return, I bought some chunky jump leads just in case.

At least the bonnet opens!

Thanks for the welcome,

Cheers!

Alistair

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Tempted to do this to my 1.4 TDCi Fusion, to hopefully make it more perky and pully in the lower gears, amongst the other benefits. It's a 2004 engine, euroIII compliant (+ no DPF) so vacuum-operated with no interference from the engine management so should be fit-and-forget :)

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It's the best thing you can do for your car for around £5 :)

Unless you're stucking doing relatively small trips, in which case your engine will not get warmer as quick.... Or ever...

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A diesel should not be used for frequent short trips - that's the main reason why the EGRV & DPF clog up & potentially the source of a few other diesel problems we see posted on this forum

My 2.2 diesel warms up with no issues with a blanked EGRV

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As an aside a functioning diesel EGRV actually LOWERS the combustion temperature - so to suggest that blanking an EGRV will cause delayed or non existent engine warm up is frankly nonsense :)

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As an aside a functioning diesel EGRV actually LOWERS the combustion temperature - so to suggest that blanking an EGRV will cause delayed or non existent engine warm up is frankly nonsense :)

I was under the impression that blanking the EGRV would also prevent exhaust gases getting to the EGR cooler, which transfers heat to the engine coolant helping to bring it up to temperature faster?

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Nope, blanking the EGRV prevents spent inert exhaust gases being recirculated into the inlet manifold, resulting in lower combustion temperatures,a clogged manifold & potential early turbo failure

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