Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

Club Announcements

Ford Fair 2016: Tickets and stand passes are now available to purchase. More info here.

Review your Ford: Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours and review your Ford now

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


515 posts in this topic

There is a performance/ efficiency advantage in blanking the EGR at both ends - the bits you want to stay cool (the inlet) stays cool and the bits you want o stay hot (the exhaust) stays hot - it may also reduce the heat losses/ volume between the exhaust valves and turbo - reducing lag/ helping the turbine spool up quicker - altogether potentially improving the performance economy - the reliability can be improved too, as there is less to go wrong

Ive ran a total EGR delete on my Mondeo for a few years now - there is a noticably performance improvement - some of the inlet components have been changed to improove flow though

If you can do it go for it - its probably well worth while

I am going to be blanking my EGR but only on one side (inlet).

You mention blanking both ends so does this mean that me just blanking the inlet side is a waste of time??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Good question there,should we blank both sides?or just one is suficient?thanks

exponential likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The exhaust side is enough but I would have found it easier to remove the pipe and blank both ends. (that lower bolt!!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no need to blank both sides, unless you are removing the pipe and the EGR system. That would be considered a rather major modification that your insurers will take you to town with, however an EGR blanking plate is impossible to identify if you dont have any error codes, and without them going scouting around, whereas if you remove the pipe, its a blatant hole that they see.

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to be blanking my EGR but only on one side (inlet).

You mention blanking both ends so does this mean that me just blanking the inlet side is a waste of time??

Its not a waste of time as it stops the exhaust gasses going into the inlet

However, If a second plate is added as well it means the exhaust gasses do not come up to the other side of ther plate and are "stopped" closer to the exhaust - this keeps the exhaust heat energy in the exhaust and reduces the volume between the exhaust valves and the turbine - reducing turbo lag / improving throttle response

Altough removing the EGR pipe would be better (because removing it reduces the heat transmission from the exhaust to inlet) you can still fit 2 EGR blanking plates (one at each end) and leave the pipe in, and it would be an improvement over just one plate on the inlet side and difficult to spot as the EGR pipe is still there

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so this m

Its not a waste of time as it stops the exhaust gasses going into the inlet

However, If a second plate is added as well it means the exhaust gasses do not come up to the other side of ther plate and are "stopped" closer to the exhaust - this keeps the exhaust heat energy in the exhaust and reduces the volume between the exhaust valves and the turbine - reducing turbo lag / improving throttle response

Altough removing the EGR pipe would be better (because removing it reduces the heat transmission from the exhaust to inlet) you can still fit 2 EGR blanking plates (one at each end) and leave the pipe in, and it would be an improvement over just one plate on the inlet side and difficult to spot as the EGR pipe is still there

so this means we should buy 2 blanking plates?are they identical or they are different?thanks

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Believe they are the same plate, as the fitments are no different as I understand it.

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Believe they are the same plate, as the fitments are no different as I understand it.

so just go with one plate than PRO?Thanks :)

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah stick with one plate for now, block off the EGR at the engine and leave it at that for the meantime.

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah stick with one plate for now, block off the EGR at the engine and leave it at that for the meantime.

Any clue were might be located on my Focus 2.0 TDCi?

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Lenny

Just been to get a new EGR fitted on my Fiesta. Does this modification you talk about mean the EGR is no longer needed? Like it won't be used?

I'm new to all this do it yourself car stuff

Thanks

Scott

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any clue were might be located on my Focus 2.0 TDCi?

Hi Andy,

Its normally under the scuttle panel, at the back of the engine, top right of the engine block area.

Hi Lenny

Just been to get a new EGR fitted on my Fiesta. Does this modification you talk about mean the EGR is no longer needed? Like it won't be used?

I'm new to all this do it yourself car stuff

Thanks

Scott

Hi Scott,

If you have the solid blanking plate, this stops the exhaust gas going through the EGR, if you have the partial block (with a hole in the middle) then you still use it but with less gas.

Theoretically, if your car throws no error codes for the EGR, you could apply a blanking plate at both ends, and remove the EGR unit altogether.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Received my plate from Poland, installed it into the car and noticed an earlier torque.

I also installed the Pipercross Ford Focus RS breather onto my 1.6TDCI. and did a remap.

Currently have 139hp and 325nm without the RS breather and the EGR blanked.

So I'm quite happy with the Focus, I'm thinking to put the Eco badge back onto the car. :P

Lenny and exponential like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys, my obd 2 tells me that the EGR sensor A circuit low, p0405..and the boost pressure only goes upto 6 kP at its highest, basically the car struggles to go up hill or to pick up speed during take off and the turbo actuator however, seems to work ok because it moves to the down position when the motor is reved and then goes back to the up position after engine is turned off, what could it be with the loss of boost pressure.

Another thing is that if I blank the EGR and unplug the harness, will it affect the perfomance of the engine in anyway...by the way the EGR valve is shown also to be stuck in the closed position according to P042f despite the fact that the valve itself is very free to move up and down when its dettached from the stepper motor so was thinking to just blank it out...any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thankx. this is focus 1.6 tdci sport 2007

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you blank it off, you dont need to disconnect the sensor, however the error you have means that you might already have a defect that needs resolving first.... otherwise it probably will throw some screwey errors...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok I understand, also the turbo boost pressure has not been to its maximum like it was before it went into limp mode, this happened when the turbo had started getting too wably(impeller) and I changed it but its still struggles to get up to speed, only when it reaches over 50mph does it only start to feel like a turbochrged engine and even then it still struggles to reach 70mph and I drive it at those speeds everyday to and from work for 30 miles, could it still be in limp mode?...

What does this remapping do to an engine could it be that it need that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok I understand, also the turbo boost pressure has not been to its maximum like it was before it went into limp mode, this happened when the turbo had started getting too wably(impeller) and I changed it but its still struggles to get up to speed, only when it reaches over 50mph does it only start to feel like a turbochrged engine and even then it still struggles to reach 70mph and I drive it at those speeds everyday to and from work for 30 miles, could it still be in limp mode?...

What does this remapping do to an engine could it be that it need that.

Sounds like a blockage in the dpf mate,

Remapping would give more performance but a blocked dpf can cause back pressure in the turbo leading to cavitations within the compressor housing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I had a garage wanting to change my egr valve for my jumping revs and vibration at idol and lack of power and inability to rev above 3000rpm. This is after them telling me the dpf was at fault and that the Dpf fluid being empty was the reason. So got them to refill the dpf filter. Car was still the same. Decided to try and sort things myself. So I have taken the egr valve off and cleaned it well using carb cleaner, put it back on and it has not changed anything.

After reading this site, I then fitted a blanking plate to see. This actually stopped the jumping revs and excessive vibration from the engine, but the max 3000rpm is still there and lack of power was also still there. What should I take from this?

It would seem that the dpf valve was making it idol badly but not causing the loss of power/ rev issues? Without diagnostics, what else should I try? Or would you encourage me to buy one of these elm devises?

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I had a garage wanting to change my egr valve for my jumping revs and vibration at idol and lack of power and inability to rev above 3000rpm. This is after them telling me the dpf was at fault and that the Dpf fluid being empty was the reason. So got them to refill the dpf filter. Car was still the same. Decided to try and sort things myself. So I have taken the egr valve off and cleaned it well using carb cleaner, put it back on and it has not changed anything.

After reading this site, I then fitted a blanking plate to see. This actually stopped the jumping revs and excessive vibration from the engine, but the max 3000rpm is still there and lack of power was also still there. What should I take from this?

It would seem that the dpf valve was making it idol badly but not causing the loss of power/ rev issues? Without diagnostics, what else should I try? Or would you encourage me to buy one of these elm devises?

Hi,

Glad to read the egr blank has helped,

It seems your egr valve is stuck in the open position,

I recommend you remove the induction pipe leading in to the turbo from the induction filter and give it a clean,

There can be a blockage in the dpf chamber which will restrict flow of gases,

A restriction of flow will reduce the speed at which the turbo wheel spins because it relys on the flow of gases to spin its wheel,

If flow is restricted then the turbo doesn't reach potential,

The egr blanked now increases the exhaust flow which is all good baby.

Try some DPF cleaning fuel additive and take the car for a 1hr motorway drive at a consistent speed nothing serious just steady speed limit and consistent,

This will build up heat in the dpf as it should and possibly unblock it.

An ELM327 is worth a spend because it can be modified following the guide on here making it a programing tool aswell as a diagnostic tool,

But definitely cleaning the induction after egr blanking will help things,

Aswell as fuel additive and a consistent drive,

A performance induction filter will also help mpg and induction,

Click on my profile picture to view links to my other guides on this aswell as a 10% discount code to purchase a Green Cotton Induction filter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny for your quick reply. I'm assuming the induction pipe you mention is the ribbed one from the air intake?

I just had a chap in a garage who had his own snap on diagnostics machine in his car, he just charged me £10 to give me the codes. He found the following codes.

P242F to do with dpf

P2458 to do with dpf

P2279 to do with air intake

Recons a engine air leak might be the cause...plus he noticed some cold air coming from somewhere around the bottom of the ribbed pipe from air intake. Wondering if this is part of the issue you mentioned above?

I'll go do some investigating when the rain stops.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny for your quick reply. I'm assuming the induction pipe you mention is the ribbed one from the air intake?

I just had a chap in a garage who had his own snap on diagnostics machine in his car, he just charged me £10 to give me the codes. He found the following codes.

P242F to do with dpf

P2458 to do with dpf

P2279 to do with air intake

Recons a engine air leak might be the cause...plus he noticed some cold air coming from somewhere around the bottom of the ribbed pipe from air intake. Wondering if this is part of the issue you mentioned above?

I'll go do some investigating when the rain stops.

No prob mate,

Yes the ribbed pipe,

You will see an elbow pipe on the left joining in to the ribbed pipe before feeding in to the compressor wheel on the turbo,

That elbow pipe is part of the egr system,

That's where the exhaust gases would have entered the induction chamber for re-combustion,

Since blanked its now worth cleaning the induction ribbed pipe because it will no longer become contaminated with carbon deposits, now only atmospheric clean air will feed the induction.

The induction error may be cleared now that the egr is blanked,

The 1 hour drive may help free up the dpf but no guarantees,

Still cheaper than replacing the chamber,

Have you considered having the dpf internals removed and ecu remapped, this way you keep the appearance for MOT purposes and all looks factory but inside there's no dpf and the car is remapped not to smoke,

No more issues.

I've had mine done all looks factory but no fear of dpf trouble as its been cut open on the factory weld,

Scooped out and rewelded on the factory joint then refitted,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you know a good place to get that done in surrey? I would be reluctant to have this done without a recommendation. I dislike garages at the best of times.

In the mean time ill do what you suggested. Thanks for your help. I'll let u know how I get on.

Lenny likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now