Tdci Black Smoke And Chugging Help!!!
Posted 27 April 2013 - 12:40 PM
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Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:51 AM
could be injector, could be a number of things, check egr check splits in intercooler pipe, check injectors, clean out manifold, that usually breaths new life into the engine!
Posted 24 June 2013 - 11:35 PM
Posted 29 June 2013 - 12:21 PM
Posted 09 July 2013 - 09:42 PM
I have the very same problem. A little more info as to what mine is doing.
Only get smoke when the engine is first started when cold and the outside temp is cold. No smoke on hot days or when the car has been run for awhile.
Again when cold and first start the engine will splutter and try to stall at around 1500 - 1800 rpm (like the engine is over fueling or starving) not sure which. This happens in any gear when under load or when sat in neutral with revs. As before the symptoms go or are harder to notice when the car is warm and has been run for awhile.
Just had diagnostic on it today and still no fault codes showing also never had a dash light shoe. Only thing the garage came up with was the EGR as the reading on the diag tool was 0 on idle and did not change when he gave some revs.
Very lost and reluctant to throw more money on garage maybes any help or advice would be most welcomed.
Posted 09 July 2013 - 10:22 PM
Hope its not same issue as my £700'er today.mines also smoked on startup and now i know thats all down to 4 really worn injectors. But it could also be hole in a hose,timing issue,duff sensor. Have you got an elm327 cable. Get one & download Forscan. Or pay a dealers or some1 with IDS etc
Have u checked to see if your egr is actually phisically working?(stuck?).Is your car a euro3 or 4?
Posted 09 July 2013 - 11:03 PM
Blank the egr, if that stops it you know thats the problem. If that makes no difference, check the air hoses for splits. Its usualy the hose leading up to the EGr but the others can split too. You will have to take them off in turn and give them a twist, as looking at them in situ wont show any splits. also the jubille clips may not have been making a good seal.
If these dont help, check the intercooler fo any corrosion and leaks.
After that then its onto injectors and other slightly more expensive items.
Posted 10 July 2013 - 10:23 AM
Thanks for the info don't really have any tools or that cable so time to call in a few favours from friends and family
I will start at the beginning of the list. Not sure about euro 3 or 4 how do you tell the difference? but it is a late 04 TDCI duratorq 130 6 speed with exposed injectors and rail. the EGR valve is at the front of the engine near the radiator and windscreen reservoir. The EGR also has a small black hose with a 90 degree bend going to 2 sensors.
It has done 140k on original injectors and most other original parts tho?
Posted 10 July 2013 - 03:00 PM
But failing that youre gonne need some live data readings to really see whats going on. Have u checked all ur pipes etc for splits/leaks? A failing injector or pump can give similar symptoms but no point in jumping to conclusions yet
Posted 24 July 2013 - 06:43 PM
Hello there! The symptoms you describe were exactly the same as those that my car was suffering with.
I have a 2005 Ford Mondeo Estate TDCI 2.0 Diesel. I used Wynns fuel additive on half a tank of diesel as recommended to clear the different components thinking that the internal parts of the car were dirty. I also used the Wynns EGR spray by loosening the jubilee clip holding the hose in place and got my Wife to rev the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPM (whilst spraying straight up into the EGR) as I have read this solution works best when the engine is hot. Despite doing the above, still no luck. I had my car serviced thinking that would resolve the problem, and the garage reassured me that it wasn't belting out black smoke anymore. I persevered to no avail.
Of course by this point I had read information on various forums pointing to the fact that in this situation there is a split in the hose between the intercooler and EGR. But when I looked I couldn't see any split.
Going back to the engine and looking carefully another day, I noticed black deposits which didn't look like they should be there. I used some tissue to wipe the hose and that is when I noticed there were two splits on the hose. One was on the underside and the other on the left side, each were approximately 1 inch long.
By this point I realised that I had found the problem and needed to do something about it.
I called Ford to enquire how much it would cost to buy a replacement and they quotes just over £70.00 including VAT (pick up only). I found out the part number was 1222831. Looking on the internet I found out there are third party products out there, made of silicon (which is much more durable) and all in (including P&P) it came to just under £35.00 from a British manufacturer and seller (http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=300834160523) - FORD MONDEO EGR TO INTERCOOLER HOSE TDCi MK3 SILICONE TURBO BOOST PIPE .
I then had a problem, knowing it would take a few days to arrive and still needing to use the car. In a desperate bid to alleviate the symptoms in the interim I got two toilet rolls and cut them down one side vertically. I places them over the holes and then proceeded to secure them in place with 4 cable ties. This was extremely effective and eventually the air leakage was stopped and the oil running through the pipe helped to seal the splits like a blood clot when you cut yourself.
This was how it looked:
I was much happier driving the car after this.
Then the part arrived today. So I parked the car half on the kerb to give myself space and got under the car, removed the torx screws from the the two pieces of plastic panels which protect the front end underside of the car. With the plastic out of the way, I could see where the hose connected using a smaller jubilee clip and loosened this. I then went at the top jubilee clip and loosened that. After this, it was just a case of loosening the pipe from the top and bottom and then taking it out. The new one went on easily, and I just used the original jubilee clips to secure it in place of the original. The top jubilee clamp needs to be forcibly removed from the original hose, which it is secured to using metal teeth.
Just make sure you put the jubilee clips on the right way round, as they were originally so that you can tighten them back up properly. Then you just have to put the plastic panels back on.
I've seen people quote £150.00 for parts and labour to get this sorted, I got it done correctly for £35.00.
I wish you luck, hopefully it wont be a problem for much longer.
Edited by Mark M.K, 25 July 2013 - 09:58 PM.
Sorry for removal of your post. I have now placed it back on to the forum. Mark M.K - FOC Manager
Posted 24 July 2013 - 06:57 PM
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