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Knocking Sound 2 Litre Tdci Esatate

tdci 2 litre knocking

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#1 zoy

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 10:05 PM

hi

 

2 liter tdci estate ghia x 2004/5

 

always given me a head ache so after some good advice got the infamous tensioner done with belt ,original ford parts , jak d ripper price but i got a staff discount , got the service parts aswell oil, filters and and fuel filter changed and air filter,

  took of egr ,2nd time , gunked up bad,took of manifold ,omg was that gunked up or what!!! used a good old degreaser from a mates bus garage,took a few hours but eventually got the egr and manifold spotless,,, intercooler pipe was split,, only bought it about a 18 months ago and the bugger split again.

again original ford ,,just for intercooler pipe is about £55 before staff discount! wat a !Removed!!

 

power steering pipe from reservoir was knackered , changed dat as well! topped up power steering fluid.

 

after all that and sum good old fashioned elbow grease replaced all nakerd parts and filters and car was ready to start,

actually sounds like a diesel now.. was gonna change crank pulley but thought bolox to it!

runs sweet now,  but !!! always a but

 

when on cold start getting a knocking sound, horrible , not the belt or tensioner, checked!

at cold idle, sound is exaggerated  when i slightly raise revs sound goes away, when i let it idle again sound cums back, also when i press clutch down half way sound goes away,, so what i do now is when i start the motor on cold start i put foot down on clutch and start ,leave foot down until motor has warmed up ,let go and then no sound once warmed up!

its irratating at the worst and after shelling out wonga on parts and labour, bit gutted to get this knocking sound on cold start only!    could it be dmf  or crank pulley or clutch???? how do i nail this problem and how do i check if its any of the above???

ps no fault lights illuminated!



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#2 stooge75

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 03:20 PM

could be your DMF knackered.when you're putting foot half way on clutch,it presses against the dmf & puts just enough pressure on it to hold it firmly(and then noise disappears)..hope Im wrong though. do you not feel it through clutch pedal(vibration when clutch engages/disengages).

could get the same type o noise with failing crank pulley as well though. its all to do with the torque/load going thru the aux system etc. cant you jack it up & have a listen underneath. you'll either hear it comin from 1 end or the other

I had a couple of cars that i thought the dmf went on,& it turned out to be the exhaust knocking underneath. worth a check.when its idling theres more movement so if exhausts near something,it'll rattle sometimes.

just read thru your post again.its hard to tell,but wonder if your clutch pressure plates ok. if it was your dmf I'd expect it to happen whether its cold or not,but metal behaves strangely at diff temps.

when its rattling,when you put your foot on clutch can you feel anything?(when it gets to biting point etc)



#3 zoy

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 01:29 AM

thanx for replying stooge75

 very informative reply i must say, you read my mind!!!

 your rite, could just be exhaust knocking, hence once its warm sound goes away!

then again your on the money with metal behaves strangely at different temps!!

today i started her up on the button , within about few seconds intermittent knocking like somethings lose, so i just RESTED my foot on clutch pedal with hardly any pressure, could feel pedal kind of vibrating from the souls of my foot! pressed down until my biting point ,sound goes away , less vibrating in pedal,,den i press all d way down,, a little knocking but very slight,, den i slowly lift up, knocking stops,,, slowly bringing the clutch bak up to biting point, ,little knocking!!den i bring it all the way up and exaggerated knocking again,, so i put the car in gear and shot off,, going thru the gears, running sweet,, stopped at lights after abt 5 mins driving, stuck it in neutral took foot of clutch let her idle,, very slight knocking then about 2 mins later still waiting for lights to change sound completley gone!!  

   now to the point of the crank pulley??? if it was crank pulley would there be that much vibration or knocking sound??

i know a lot of the guys on forums religiously swear to change crank pulley wen doing tensioner etc but i didnt bother, thinking bak  i shouldav!!  its about  £100 before staff discount! 

gonna jack her up again on saturday and hold my balls and pray its not the dmf,, if it is then im getting the aa engine cover insurance and let then pay for the 1st £500 pounds of the bill including labour,the rest il av to fork out ,probably another 2 0r 3 hundred quid! THATS WITH ORIGINAL PARTS

with regards to clutch pressure plate ,again your rite, could it be my thrust bearing???

 i might as well confess  iv noticed another noise when im changing down gears ,4th to  3rd especially ,a whining sound, warm or cold its always there, could be gearbox or gearbox mounts ??? bearings ?? only happens when im changing down! goes up through to 6th gear no noise, when cuming down the gears whining at byting point in evry gear down to 2nd!!!

cars done 110 000miles,, iv heard some of these 6 gear gearboxes do 150 000 miles with no hang ups , are they prone to bearing problems???

 long post for a long problematic car , gonna call my car alex higgins from now on, , moody unpredictable and and a flawed genius! all thanks to ford designers!!!



#4 stooge75

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 05:22 PM

no,just synchro problems that ive heard of. The whining noise when you clutch in,& get the biting point makes me think its somehow related to friction plate in clutch or release bearing.

the 5 speed box has none of these problems the 6 speed has.(well almost). I ve got a brand NEW box & even thats not smooth at best of times lol. its a joke of a car,considering how many are on uk roads!



#5 zoy

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 12:10 AM

either way im buggerd, if its what you say, a synchro problem or clutch friction plate or release bearing etc its all got to come out !!

and if it comes down to it and all the guts of the car are out ,i might as well change the dmf,, 

not really going to be dropping everything like gear box sub frame etc every week ami!

iv heard that the solid flywheel is worth putting on, and iv also read on the forums that it isnt due to the fact of load pressures etc and that why would ford design a engine that takes a dmf when they could easily have put a solid flywheel in?? also iv heard about these uprated dmfs etc and some with nylon between the flywheel etc!

 all opinions are welcomed!!!



#6 stooge75

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 01:30 PM

the DMF is needed to take the torque & vibrations from this engine. Ive done a few SMF conversions with bad results but thers a few thatve did same without problems so far. this is a decision thats upto yourself though as if it goes wrong then you'll only have yourself to blame. A dmf should last half the lifetime of the car so if you get a new one,it'd last you.

BUT is it worth it? If I'd known all the faults etc of mondeo's I wouldnt have touched one with a barge-pole. They're too numerous to count: sticking calipers,DMF issues,PCM issues, rust on doors due to seals,injector issues(big ones!). Ah fun & games eh



#7 zoy

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 01:05 AM

your rite ,,is it worth the doe????

its done 110 000 miles and alread spent  £400, now looking at double that, by the time iv got the parts directly from fords with a staff discount and labour charges from a friend whos a genius of a mechanic lookin at between £ 500   n   £650  so overall il be out of pocket good part of a grand!!!

 with the hassle of getting another good motor , its all time consuming and loads of travelling involved  etc etc!! i dont know,

the car is needed on a regular basis and holds it own when running on song, its one il have to think about and work around!

should av just stuck to the vauxhalls and jap motors!!!!!



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