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Gombal

Gombal: Ford Fusion 1.4 Tdci Trend 2004

102 posts in this topic

A little side track today.

My motto is that if you know how things look on the inside you can troubleshoot possible problems much easier.

Not only that, i'm also curious how things work and why they're constructed lke they are.

So, because i don't know how the inside of a resonatorbox in the high pressure side of the turbo looks i decided to open one up.

On the inside there is a insert with holes in the side, these give access to the actual extra rooms in the box.

The only resonance i can think of that will be in the inlet is the resonance of the cilinders sucking/letting air in all 4, one at a time.

And what the resonatorbox does is "store" a bit of pressure so the turbo won't get the pressure fluctuations so much.

That's also probably why the 1.6 TDCI doesn't have the box, it has a intercooler so the total content of compressed air is a lot more because of it. So any pressure fluctuations will be compensated by that.

And the reason they put this box in is it doesn't take a lot of room and still does the job. You could also put a T piece of piping in with a small bottle shaped piece on it and it will do the same but take up more room.

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wow lots going on, love the knobs =) i should of done that in y old fiesta =) keep up the great work =)

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Well, they're not in yet but it's just a matter of time ;)

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Yesterday i noticed a screw in my left rear tyre by accident. Wanted to go to KwikFit first (that's the only thing i go to KwikFit for, to get a plug in a tyre. That's about the only thing they don't screw up ;) ) but then i remembered i had something else, left over from a previous leaky tyre (on the Benz) which had a nail in it.

When i was young i had many flat's on my bike when i discoverd OKO. On my bike it Always worked like a charm, no matter what you would drive through, never a puncture again! You put the special fluid in the tyre, it's a liquid with fibres in it. Doesn't degrade the tyre and won't freeze. You can leave it in the entire life of the tyre and you will never have a puncture again. It can close holes up to 5 mm.

There's also a special version for tubeless tyres etc.

So took the wheel of, got the screw out (tyre deflated quite rapidly) and took the innerworks of the air valve out. Put in 250 ml of OKO, reinflated the tyre, rotated it once and voila, leak sealed!

Because i took the wheel of i just as well could renew my brakefluid, i looked in the reservoir and it looked murky so i don't know when it was changed the last time. (got no maintenance history with the car)

How i did that the easy way is described in a How-To in the Fusion section ;)

Right rear fixed by KwikFit:

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Left rear fixed by me and OKO:

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O, also noticed that the left rear bearing is making a soft grinding noise, just like the bearing is dry.

So will order new wheel bearings and have a go at those!

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Finally did my exhaust today. Took the cat with flex of. Before taking it of i took 4 sawblades and 4 Ty-raps and made sure the flex couldn't bend to much.

All bolts came out real easy except one! Of course this was the bolt you can reach the hardest at the bottom of the turbo.

The head came of so i let it be till i got the exhaust ready. Put 2 nuts on later and luckily it came out!

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First i welded a piece of pipe to the piece i already made a few days ago. It was to short, luckily i still had enough right sized pipe from the Benz.

Then i clamped both exhaust on the workmate to see were i had to cut underneath the catalyst.

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Put a Ty-rap around the pipe were i should cut it so i i would cut it real straight and exactly the right angle. Works better than a pencil ^_^ .

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Cut it and then welded it to the catless pipe.

Now it was time to see if it would fit. Had to adjust a little by cutting almost through and then bend the pipe a little and weld it up again. Had to do it at 2 places to make sure the flange was positioned the right way to connect the rest of the exhaust.

Looked good so i made a bracket to connect it to one of the brackets of the catalyst.

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After all looked good i bolted it all to the right torque. Will have to get 4 new bolts for the exhaust to the turbo connection so i put a good amount of copaslip on it to stop it seizing up.

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Started it up and everything looked and sounded good and so far no leaks.


Because i could reacht it real easy now i rotated the nut on the boostcontrol arm 1 turn. Because of the Scangauge i will be able to see what extra boost this will get me.

Will go for a ride this evening, there's a weekly fair just in front of my driveway so can't go anywhere till about 19:00.

These are the remains of the work:

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Inside the catalyst:

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The two things you don't need in a diesel ;) :

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Just went for a ride, you smell the paint as the exhaust heats up but after a few miles that was gone.

It feels (can't prove it with data although i had the Scangauge and my tablet in the car.) like it revs a bit easier. What i do notice is when i take my foot of the gas when driving 60 miles an hour the inletpressure stays a bit higher longer then before. probably because there is no restriction in the exhaust anymore.

Before i adjusted the boostcontrol arm my max inletpressure was 214 KPA (2,14 bar or 31 PSI), now after the adjustment, 1 turn of the nut, the max inletpressure is 224 KPA (2,24 bar or 32,5 PSI). I saw no change in the inlet temperature so still no need for an intercooler.

Just feels like the car accelerates a bit easier, did know it wouldn't be a big change but now i know there are no more restrictions in the exhaust, the engine can breath out freely.

The next project will be the inlet, the most perfect option would be the airbox of a 2008 and up Fiesta, behind the left headlight and a straight tube to the turbo.

Sadly there is no way to get that airbox in a Fusion. You would have to move the battery to create the room but that's almost impossible.

There is a lot of roombetween the engine, radiator and the left headlight so i have to think about a way to get an airbox in that position.

Then the air should remain cooler, the way it has to travel now it gets heated by the inletpipe to the airfilterbox, the airfilterbox itself, the tube to the turbo and the resonatorbox and tube to the actual inletmanifold. All of them are above or very close to the cilinderhead and heat up automatically during driving.

The last 2 (4 actually, turbo, resonatorbox, tube to inlet manifold and the inlet manifold itself) things you can't do much about but everything before that could be in a lot cooler place instead off on top of the "stove".

Will be continued but it will take a while, have to think this through thoroughly. I know by now i don't want a sportsfilter.

The best options would be the 2008 and up Fiesta airbox or the airbox of a 1.6 TDCI. The latter is connected to a big cover for over the engine but that part would simply be cut of. The problem is that new that piece costs e few hundred euro's and there very scarce on the scrapyard.

The 1.6 TDCI airbox would probably fit between the engine, radiator and left headlight but i'm not sure of that.

Maybe there will come an even better solution if i just look around a bit more ;) .

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Nothing doen on the car or parts for it.

Did notice something strange now the cat is gone. Because of the Scangauge i can always see a bit more data then the 4 things displayed in the instrumentcluster.

Because i adjusted the boost control arm i wanted to see what the boost was after the adjustment. Already wrote that in the last reply but yesterday i noticed something strange.

When driving in first gear, just roling along the MAP is lower as before. Before the cat removal it was Always around 100 KPA (normal air pressure outside) or a bit higher, 100-103. When i gently step on the gas it used to drop 1 or 2 KPA and then rise because of the rising revs and exhaust gasflow.

Now it drops even further, i've seen as low 90 KPA. Just for a second and then it rises as it did normally.

Been thinking about that but i just can't seem to put my finger on it why it should be doing that.

With the cat gone the turbo should rev a bit easier because there is less restriction in gasflow in the exhaust. Theoretically there should be more boost sooner i think.

On the other hand, because the engine can breathe out more easily, could that mean it can also suck in more air because of that? That's what it seems like. That's also the only explanation i can think of why the MAP would drop beneath atmospheric pressure at very low revs. Usually that's the behavoir of normally aspirated engines.

Was thinking of bypassing the airfilter for a test but i'm not so fond of that but it would reveal if the airfilter is the bottle neck at this point. I think (but that's an assumption) that the engine would greatly benefit from a better, read less obstructive, air intake route.

Been busting my brains to think of a good, cold ram air intake with as short as possible route to the turbo.

The route isn't that difficult, it's the space needed for a good, non oiled, airfilter, that's the problem. I just want to get rid of the original heated airfilter box with all the restrictions in the route. As soon as i come up with an acceptable solution for the airfilter the engine breather hose is also getting a catchcan so no extra oil is going into to the intake route and engine.

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What's this scan gauge thing you have on the car?

Where do you get one and how does it plug into the car?

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The Scangauge II ( http://www.scangauge.net/ ) is a little device which you connect to the OBD2 connector in your car. It will read the ecu and give you data that normally only the dealer can see. You can also reset faultcodes so that's even better ;)

It isn't cheap though. I bought it 5 years ago but the price is still the same.

Would i buy it again, probably not, not because it doesn't do what it supposed to or that i don't like it but then i probably would buy a Ultragauge ( http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ ). Cheaper and you can display more data in one display. The Scangauge can only display 4 datapoints in the display, the Ultragauge 8.

If you want an even cheaper solution, a bluetooth OBD2 dongle, about 4-5 euro's from China including postage! You will need an Android Phone or tablet and you're good to go.

I have a 7 inch Samsung tablet, Torque software, a tablet holder for in the car and a bluetooth dongle. Torque can show you as many gauges as you want but it can also log your data and that's very convinient if you change things on your car. It saves the data in CSV files, you can then view them with a CSV file viewer or import and graph it for instance in Excel.

if you have internet connection while you drive it can upload data directly to a server and then you can see where you've been and see what the car did.

Some pics from the Scangauge II and my tablet in the car. Don't have the tablet in the car al the time but after i change something i take it on the next trip so i can see possible changes. I do have a OBD@ splitter so the Scangauge can remain connected all the time and the bluetooth dongle can be connected at wiil.

Scangauge fitted in the car, nicely underneath the middle console:

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Location of the OBD2 connector, still a bit messy, i want to remove the connection and put it behind the cover so it will look a lot more neat:

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Bluetooth OBD2 dongle in place, i remove it after i use it because it keeps drawing current if left connected. Scangauge doesn't, it goes to standby automatically:

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Tablet in place, sorry for the bad pics, very sunny today. No data because the engine wasn't running:

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Example of upoaded data to Torque website of one of my runs. You can see where you've been and all data you select:

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cool thanks for the explanation =)

so you get one of these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Android-Torque-Car-Mini-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-CAN-BUS-/181124903208?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2be2b128

are they all for the same car? I'm guessing the plug is the same for every brand?...?

And then you hook up to it by bluetooth using your adroid screen?

do you need an app on your android phone/tablette to have the information?

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I bought this one: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/190848767884#ht_2921wt_1398, it's even smaller and the location of the OBD2 connector is a bit odd. It points right at your legs and i thought i might hit it when it was to long. Doesnt happen by the way but smaller looks better when it is place ;) . See that i didn't remember the price right but still cheap.

Yes, you just connect it via bluetooth to your Android device(telephone or tablet). Took a little fiddling but no more then 5 minutes. Because it's China stuff they didn't give the code to connect but in my case it was 1234, seen cases were it is 6789. Think Apple should work also but don't know if there is software for Apple.

The software is use is Torque Pro: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque (if you look on the internet it's a lot (read 100%) cheaper than in the play store :whistling: ) I think it's not cheap and if it was perfect i wouldn't mind paying that. If it was half of the price at this moment i would have bought it but i also wanted to try first to see of it works. If it's developed a bit further i'm just gonna support the maker and buy it.

Have tried different kinds of software but none of them is as good as Torque at this point.

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Thanks :) I checked the app site

On my phone and doesn't have the same app arhhhhhhh I hate apple lol.

Anyways will check into this after I gt back from vacation

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Drove to work today, is about 70 km ( about 44 miles) away. When i left there the outside temperature was about 30 degrees Celsius (86 F).

Had to drive through the city for a bit and when i accelerated the car suddenly stuttered at about 2500 rpm. I accelerated again and kept watch at the Scangauge to see the MAP. It rose to 210 and suddenly dropped to about 135 and at the same time the engine lost power. Engine was idling good but as soon as i tried to accelerate it did it again. Went on the motorway, got up to speeds and when driving 130 km/hr (80 miles an hour) the MAP stayed 213 when putting my foot down. Strange.

First thing i thought of was my powerbox, did it get to hot or something like that? I fixed it on top of the little black box behind the battery so it won't get wet but will get hot if the car is parked in the sun.

So when i came home i opened the bonnet and moved the powerbox. When i did that i saw the problem, the heat let the tape airintake sag in. It even sucked the side of the tube in!:

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Not the powerbox (moved it back) but without air the engine doesn't like it either ;) .

Last time i was at the scrapyard i got an airintake from a Peugeot 306, about the same shape as my tape intake version.

So a bit of sawing and fitting and the inlet was ready again. Did tape it again but it can't sag in anymore!

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Also cut a little bit of the plastic frame above the radiator so i know for sure the air is forced in a bit but i know for sure it's cold air coming in. If i would really want it forced in i need to connect a hose to the Original intake hose and route it to the bottom of the radiator so i can get it to get air from just behind the grill underneath the bumper. But firt want to try this, air should be a little cleaner up here, just above the road there is probably just a bit more dust.

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Will have to drive 70 km again tomorrow and the forecast is that it will be the same temp. or even higher. Nice test ;) .

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Drove 140 kilometres today, very hot weather again. Car performed perfectly, had lots of "cold" air coming in. Also turned the screw 1 turn on the powerbox for a bit more oempf.

Didn't notice anything, just that the consumption shown on the scangauge was fluctuating again, after 140 km's it was already a lot more stable. Just as the last time. The ECU has to learn again so a 140 km drive was a good distance to do that.

Keep being surprised by the economy of the car, must say i drive between 80 and 100 km/hr and that's a really good speed to be very economical. If you drive faster, 120 km/hr the economy goes down really quick.

Also collected the 4 new bolts from the Ford dealer to mount the exhaust to the turbo. Want to cut the exhaust again to have the last bend turned about 5 to 10 degrees, at the moment my flexpipe is thouching a bolt on the tranny. Also the flexpipe is bend in a strange way so that's not how i want it.

But will wait for slightly cooler weather, way to hot now.

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Forgot a pic of the new bolts, two and a half euro per piece and they are as strong as gingerbread. To snap the head of the old one didn't require a lot of muscle. Could also be the almost 9 years of heating up and cooling down to get metal fatique or something like that of course ;)

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Little redesigning today, took of the cat replacement pipe cause it wasn't routed quite how i liked it, needed a little bend extra to relief the stress of the flexpipe.

Just cut a V shaped slot in it, let it stay connected about 10 mm and than pushed sides of the slot together and welded it again.

Was to lazy (it was hot and i was tired ;) ) to grind the weld down neatly, maybe an other time or when it needs to be replaced)

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When i took of the exhaust i saw it had leaked at the bottom, just above the boost control arm nut. Strange cause originally there's no gasket there, luckily i had a gasket i ordered when i was still thinking of making the flange for the turbo myself. So when bolting the exhasut back i installed the gasket, fastened the bolts at the right torque (25 Nm) and i couldn't feel or smell any leaks at that flange.

I also ordered a original gasket for the other end of the gasket. Put it in but it was leaking at the front and the rear. Probably because i first had a "homemade" gasket in that didn't have the ears were the bolts went through. Probably the flange bent a bit when the bolts were thightened at that point. So removed the original gasket and put a new "homemade" gasket in. Then it didn't leak anymore!

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Also put in the new bolts for the exhaust at the turbo connection. Forgot to take a pic of it :( .

And a pic of the protection for the flexpipe before the added bend. You can see were the bolt touched it after only driving a few days with it.

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Since i removed the cat there is a strange phenomena happening.

When driving slow, less then 45 miles an hour, and having the windows open only a little there's a strange smell filling the car.

First i thought it was the zincspraypaint but it keeps happening, even after driving 280 km's.

Then i thought i had a leak in the exhaust or at one of the flanges but everything is completely airtight. (the little leakage at the turbo isn't feelable or smellable so that can't be it. And also after the addition of the gasket between the exhaust and the turbo you get the smell)

There are 2 remaining options:

1) The end of the exhaust ends just before the rear bumper. When driving slowly there will be a lot of turbulence there and not all the exhaust fumes will be blown away but the cavities underneath the car/bumper will fill with the gases and thus the smell. Because the windows are open just a bit there is a slight vacuum in the car and the gases/smell will come into the car because of any holes of slits in the underside of the car.

Remains strange that before the cat removal we didn't have this problem.

When the windows are closed you smell nothing, blower off or on, doesn't matter and with the windows completely down there's also nothing you can smell so i really don't know where to look for the problem.

2) See one but because of the cat removal the exhaust gases contain a lot more NOx so will smell stronger. It's not rotten eggs but a strange smell, it doesn't really stink but it's also not pleasant to sit in for a while.

Don't know if anybody else had something like this but i just can;t pinpoint the exact thing i have to change to get rid of it. Pity that i can't just put the cat back in, that would give some answers as to the fact if it's the exhaust fumes smelling different/more or something else.

O, i replaced the pollenfilter last week, it's also a carbon filter so any strange smells shpuld be captured by the filter. But when we smell it it's not coming out of any vents in the dashboard, that's what i suspected the first time but the air coming from the vents is very fresh so can't be my heat exchanger which has mold or something.

Curious if anyone has any other suggestions?

O, the smell is like a petrol exhaust but lighter.

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Did just a little today, made a DTM style tailpipe for the exhaust, a well, that's what i call it ;) . Isn't the prettiest but if it works i will be very happy!

It's the first attempt to get rid of the smell i described earlier. With this tailpipe the exhaust gases will come out behind the bumper instead of in/underneath the bumper.

I hope it will work, i can't test it at the moment because i can't get of the driveway because of the weekly fair in the street. Hope to test it this evening or else tomorrow.

Welded it to the original tailpipe so i'm sure no gases will escape before the real end of the exhaust.

Before:

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After:

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Also removed the rear mudflaps, did remove them last week but i thought they caused the smell to come in because the airflow behind the backwheels changes when they are removed. But also with the mudflaps on it the smell comes in the cabin so removed them again.

The reason i removed them is that i don't like the sight of it, the front ones are ok but with front and rear on them i think the car looks like an old man's car, with the rear ones removed it looks a little sportier. But that's my humble opinion ;) .

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Eureka!

Just drove a few miles, looks like the exhaust mod worked. No more strange smell in the car, ran from 0 to 45 miles an hour for a while with the windows slightly open and the air stayed fresh.

Now i want to make a nice one, this one looks like the hunchback of the Notre Dame. I might have to cut a little out of the bumper but we'll see if i can make a nice looking one that also works good.

Makes you wonder, before the cat removal i didn't smell anything but nothing changed but the exhaust. Meaning that although you didn't smell it, exhaust fumes were entering the car without you knowing it. Not very healthy and i don't think very safe to.

I know my Benz had 2 dedicated holes in the sides of the trunk with springloaded flaps. Especially to let air escape out of the car but don't let air in other than through the designated vents in front.

I know that with the Ford air is coming out of the holes where you place the jack, felt it blowing when laying underneath the car. So there will be holes or slitts underneath the trunk letting air (thus exhaust fumes too) in too, otherwise you wouldn't smell the fumes.

Said it before but the build quality in comparison to the Benz is almost terrible, the feel, the way things are constructed and assembled on the Ford (even though the Benz is 27 years old) is no match. Even the plastic things on the Benz don't break after 27 years of service, with the ford i already have several plugs were the locking simply broke off just touching it. Also paint quality, on the Ford the paint is so thin, in comparison the Benz paint is much sturdier and chip resistant. Of course the Benz paint wasn't waterbased in that time.

Enough whining, overall the Ford is a nice car and i have a lot of fun driving and modifying it. It's no comparison cause the Mercedes W124 was the best Benz made ever in terms of driving and build quality. After that the quality dropped dramatically.

Think i will be going to the scrapyard next week, i just want a good cold air intake, keeps bugging me and i want it to be right.

Also found an old vacuumcleaner hose, If i can't find anything good next week i'll make an extra cold air intake from underneath the bumper behind the grill to the air intake.

Also thinking of putting a heatshield beneath the airfilter box and around the U turn pipe connected directly to the airfilterbox. That should also help keeping a little heat out of the fresh air. But only if i can't find a suiting replacement airfilterbox.

Also thinking of putting in extra sound isolation but that will take a while, i think they should have put in more (or better) isolation behind the dashboard. The engine is very noticable when accelerating and i would like that to be a lot less. When on speed it's quiet enough although the tires make a lot of noise. And i think you can also hear the left rear bearing so when i change that there should also be less noise when driving.

Maybe a full matt underneath the hood will also help.

Also wonder why Ford didn't put a cover underneath the enginecompartment, would protect the engine, reduce noise and increase milage because of the better airflow. Read the new Fiesta's have them but they will probably don't fit the Fusion.

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nice to hear it solved the problem =)

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Yes, that's true but i still it's strange that it's possible to suck in exhaust fumes. If i didn't remove the cat you would have never know that you're breathing exhaust fumes because the cat was masking the smell.

I think it's a very serious design flaw. Can't be healthy to breath in exhaust fumes, even if you don't smell them, they're still there.

And i know, it's only when driving under 45 mph with the windows slightly open but it's ridiculous that that won't be possible on a modern car. If it was China made i wouldn't be surprised but from a Ford i expect something else.

If it continues to be nice weather i will investigate it further next week, let the motor run, blower on max and than lie under the car and see if i can locate any holes, slits, cracks or whatever under the trunk that will blow air. If it can come out it also can go in! Maybe with some soapy water to make it visible.

If i can find anything and i can reach it than i'm gonna put body kit on it to seal any opening that can be sealed without causing moisture to stay in. Don't want an airtight car that will rust 3 times faster ;)

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Got my two blank spare keys made. One's without remote control, the other with.

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Few weeks back i already programmed the remote control one so i could start with it (removable key bit). Have a chinese VCM clone and i don't know hoe i did it but it worked ;) .

With two working keys it's easy to program the other one, first key in, 3 seconds on contact, second key in (within 10 seconds), also 3 seconds on contact, unprogrammed key in, 3 seconds on contact and it's programmed.

Nice to know i have a working spare key now (and a key for my wife).

Ordered them online, ordered an extra key bit because i first wanted to make the key bits myself, the round Ford keys are super simple to make, small file and some patience.

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I did actually manage to copy my key myself, not as neat as the keymaker did but it starts the car. It doesn't open the car door however.

Probably because i filed away a bit to much and the ignitionlock has been used a lot more and will be worn more.

But was nice to try and see that it worked ;)

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Was thinking yesterday, everytime i take the car and drive i notice that the fuel consumption is a bit (0,5-1,0 lpk on the Scangauge) higher while the engine hasn't reached it's working temperature. i can test and compare that very easily cause were about a kilometre away from a 12 km long 60 mph way. So everytime i get on that i swith on the cruiscontrol (it has 3 memories so the speed will be the same everytime i select the 60 mph button) i notice that.

With these outside temperatures and summer that's not a problem but i wonder what it will be like in winter when it's freezing.

So i looked at the fuel preheater but i can not find any info on that as to temperatures. (Already post this question in the Fiesta forum, could have done it in the Fusion forum but the Fiesta forum has more visitors and also has this engine)

Also don't know if the ecu does anything with the fueltemperature.

Then i remembered the preheater which is on my Benz. It's al mechanical, has a thermostat and regulates the fuel temperature all year round so it will be at least 25 degrees Celsius.

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One advantage of this is that the injectors will have a better spray pattern because the diesel is less viscous at 25 degrees as opposed to -5 degrees.

Have to look at it but the perfect spot for the Benz preheater would be to disconnect the EGR cooler and use that coolant stream to heat the diesel. Don't know how much and which temp the coolant is there (hot side or the cooled side, will have to follow the hoses) but even if it is just 50 degrees it would be sufficient.

The beauty of this system is that it can be used all year round, it will stabilize the fuel temperature so it will be at least 25 degrees all year round. (off course when it's 30 degrees outside the diesel will also be 30 degrees ;) )

An other thing to think of is the inlet air flow, in summer you want it as cold as possible. In winter though i guess that will work against you. So i'm thinking of making an extra airduct, connect it to the heatshield of the turbo (like in the old days when the cars needed warm air to keep the carburator from freezing)

What i need to let that regulate it automatically is a heat activated inletflap from an old carburator car. Will have a look on the scrapyard next week to see if there still around. Otherwise a hand activated one will do.

This will have, in my opinion, the following benefits in winter. Engine will be at working temperature sooner and because of that my fuel consumption will be lower sooner.

Just theoretical but the only way to know will be to make it and test it in winter.

As i can see most sensors on the Scangauge and my tablet i can see if it works or not.

Sadly the only sensor i can't see is the fueltemperature sensor. I would really like to see that, especially in winter. in the Benz i did put an aftermarket outside temperature gauge on the fuelline, that will be the next best thing to the original sensor.

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Haven't been to the scrapyard yet, to hot and to busy ^_^ .

Did a little thing in the car this morning though. Despite of the "DTM style" exhaust tailpipe the smell was still noticable sometimes.

So took the angle grinder and cut off half of the extra tailpipe. Then took the last piece of bend i had laying around and made an downwards facing pipe. The same as the original but now it extends behind the bumper instead of under/in the bumper.

With the "DTM style" tailpipe and a cold engine you could see the smoke in the rearview mirror when accelerating, only in second and third and in the first kilometer. After that you couldn't see any smoke/soot.

When i looked at the finished pipe i noticed it has a strange bend in it, maybe when i have nothing else to do i will make a nice straight pipe but for now it will suffice.

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Took it for a spin and now i really didn't smell anything anymore! Hope it stays that way, was beginning ti think to put the cat back because when cruising with my wife she doesn't like it when you smell the exhaust inside the car (don't like it myself either but it's only diesel........... :P ).

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