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Gombal

Gombal: Ford Fusion 1.4 Tdci Trend 2004

102 posts in this topic

Another little modification to the Fusion. Because i didn't got around to go to the scrapyard i made an extra cold air feed to the air inlet.

Very simple but this way the engine has plenty of air to choose from ;) .


First wanted to get it from behind the lower grill but after i looked at it the fake perforated plastic next to the foglight would be an even better place.

Original:

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So i drilled out the fake holes but that only resulted in a mess instead of a mesh.

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So cut the drilled piece out, no flow restrictions also this way.

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Then attached the hose to the back side of the hole. Just put some ducttape on it to see if it would fit. Sprayed the inside of the hose black cause it's a grey hose.


When attaching it to the car i had to guide it a little bit, there's a piece of metal that's in the way, didn't pay attention when i looked where to put the hose :angry: . But it fitted almost perfectly, because of the ducttape the hase could move/get loose a bit so no problem. (Just hope it stays put but wil have to get a cheap wide mouth piece for a vacuumcleaner so i can fix it properly.)

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It goes into the side of the air intake, also not the perfect position but hey, you got to start somewhere. And i still hope to loose it all in favor of a real cold air intake with the airfilter relocated.

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looking good and looks like you have got loads going on

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Thanks, most of the things i wanted are done, just the rerouting of the airintake has to be done but that's just a matter of finding the right solution (without spending to much ;) )

I'm not the guy for the blue interiour lights and the Tupperware on the outside. (Although the Ford logo puddle lights are on my list, that's something i do like.)

Was just standing next to a bit newer Fusion at the local DIY, if i ever find such a car on the scrapyard and it still has all the black plastic spoiler/skirt thingies on it then i will take them. With it the wheel arches look a bit smaller so the wheels fill the arches a bit better, looks better. Also i think it reduces drag, one of the reasons i removed my rear mudguards. They stick out the side of the wheels and scoop air. With the spoiler/skirt thingies the shape of the car in front and behind the wheels is less obstructing and maybe it will help to lower the fuel consumption even more.

And even if it doesn't do anything for the fuelconsumption, i just like the look of it ;) . And although you could also call it Tupperware, it's original so in my book that doesn't qualify as Tupperware than.

A Fusion with the spoiler/skirt thingies:

post-44148-0-12522300-1375786147_thumb.j

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Went to the scrapyard today :) , always like to walk around there. Even when i don't need anything, just like to look at all the cars and see if there's anything i can use or something i can modify to use in my own car.

Got two airfilter boxes, one from a Peugeot 206, looks very much like a Fiesta MK7 one, just the inlet is located somewhere else.

The other one was just lying around on the ground but when i googled the filter number it said it's from a Ford Ka.

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Both are not plug and play (wouldn't that be great) but i will have to look and see which one will fit the easiest. Thinking of relocating the ECU, that will give me a bit more room, maybe just enough.

Also got a thermostatic airinlet valve from a Golf or Polo, don't know if it is still working but if it isn't, there were more where this one came from ;) . Took it so if i wanted a warm air inlet in winter maybe i can use it.

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Also took the strange bend part of a 1.4 HDI inlet pipe (same as my inletpipe) so if i want to modify that i now have a spare!.

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Removed the extra cold ait intake hose, somehow it was messing up my fuel consumption. Don't know 100% but the strange thing is the fuel consumption rose after i connected the extra cold air inlet. Might be something else but this is the easiest thing to test.

Also checked the airfilter, the first thing i saw is that the direct air inlet works! (Drove behind a lorry full of hay bales this morning :) )

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Then i checked the space for an alternative airfilter location, the 2 airboxes i got from the scrapyard won't fit, i tried but the ECU and the coolant hoses to the radiator are in the way.

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There is an other solution, i could relocate my battery. It could go in the boot, there are 2 ways i could fit it there. The plastic battery box can easily be fixed there and the battery bracket is also no problem to attach, just a little bit of drilling some holes.

(Top of Peugeot airbox just to get an idea of the size, is just as wide but not as long)

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Then there's lots of space to fit an airbox on the former battery location. Cold, direct air is close by and also the turbo is next to it. The ideal location.

Will have to run 2 thick wires to the boot to hook up the battery.

Just don't know if i can just relocate my battery legally. Don't think it's a problem though, there are more cars were the battery is located in the boot (Mercedes W210) or underneath the drivers seat.(Citroen Picasso)

(Edit: just looked up our MOT rules, APK overhere and the only thing written about the battery is that it should be secured properly. That's it so relocating will give no issue with the APK)

Also removed the resonator box and hose, just to see how clean or filty it was. There was a bit of oil in it so i do want an oil catchcan and let it breath outside instead of back into the inlet. Will keep the turbo and the rest of the inlet oilfree.

The outlet of the turbo:

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The butterfly valve:

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Agsain the butterfly valve but you can see the EGR connection in the back:

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Hose between resonatorbox and butterfly valve, you can see the inlet temp sensor:

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Nice weather today so i decided to replace the left rear wheel bearing. Last time i had the wheels off to replace the brake fluid i noticed that the left wheel bearing made noise, you can also hear it whilst driving, especially in the right turns.

I know from my Mercedes the center nut could be a problem to get off, had to drill it in half to get it loose.

Surprisingly the center nut came off very easy. Then the next thing was to get the drum off. Had to loosen the handbrake cable but still nothing, the drum was loose but wouldn't come off, you could feel it sticking on the brakeshoes. So i put my wheel back on with 2 nuts so i had a bit more leverage. That way it came off with just a little pursuation.

Then the next thing was to get the old bearing out. Removed the retaining clip and put the drum on two pieces of wood. Got a 32 mm socket and a big hammer. Gave it a few good whacks but nothing. So i heated the drumpart where the bearing is in, not to hot but nice and just not touchable. A few whacks further it went a bit, half of the inner ring fell out so i heated the drumpart again and put some ice cubes in the bearing. Waited a bit and hammered it right out.

Cleaned the whole thing with brake cleaner, sprayed some teflonspray on the in the drum (not on the brake surface off course!).

i put the new bearing in a plastic bag and put it in a bowl with ice cubes to let it "shrink".

Heated the drumpart again and with a little hammering the bearing went in. (First with a piece of wood between the hammer and the bearing, then used the old bearing as an auxiliary tool to get the bearing totally in)

Put a new clip in, cleaned the whole drum again with brake cleaner again and put the ABS signal ring on. It's a circular magnet, put a plastic bag over it, a piece of wood and gentle tapping with the hammer put it right on.

Then i put the drum back on the axle, fastened the center nut with the right torque (235 Nm), readjusted the handbrake, put on the new cap and refitted my wheel. Took it out for a test drive and all was well ;) .

Old bearing:

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Old and new ABS ring:

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Socket and old bolt to whack the old bearing out:

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New stuff:

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Rear brake internals:

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ABS sensor "looking" at the magnetic ring:

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Fitted the drum, turned it a few times and removed it again to see if nothing touched. You can see all the little magnetic segments:

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New cap:

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Handbrake nut loosened:

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Handbrake nut readjusted:

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Was wondering if my powerbox really made a difference in fuel consumption. Also wanted to make a plug to by-pass the powerbox in winter, diesel is thicker than so when the outside temp. drops below 5 to 10 Celsius i want to by-pass the powerbox so my ip has a bit less stress.

Ordered some Sugru (self curing rubber, heard about it here on the forum), cut a little piece of wire and made my own plug. (If you're wondering what the white stuff is, it's baking paper, wanted some clingfilm but couldn't find it. Thought that it wouldn't stick on baking paper but i was wrong. At least this way i could get it of the plug easily)

Also put in 2 nuts from an old laptop so i can really attach the cable to the by-pass plug.

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To test it i refuelled this morning, put the by-pass plug in at the tankstation, zeroed the Scangauge and drove home. My original intent was to let it sit for a whole tank. But after what i saw on the way home i decided i'd seen enough!

On a 80 km/hr road (i have 3 presets in my cruiscontrol so the speed will always be the same) the consumption with the powerbox was between 2,5 and 3,2 ltr/100km.

On a 100 km/hr road the consumption with powerbox was between 4,5 and 5,2 ltr/100km.

On the way back, about an half hour later the consumption without the powerbox on the 80 km/hr road was between 3,0 and 3,6 ltr/100km.

On the 100 km/hr road without powerbox the consumption was between 5,3 and 6,2 ltr/100km.

There was no wind and the outside temp. was still the same.

Didn't test 120 km/hr cause i had no need to go on the motorway.

Also strange but less conclusive is the fact that 2 days ago i also refuelled and drove home (same road, a bit more traffic then so a little more stopping time at trafficlights and round abouts but a little warmer outside, 22 instead of 19.) and the Scangauge gave 3,6 ltr/100km when i got home (20 km drive) This morning without the powerbox it gave 5,3 ltr/100km when i got home.

So i didn't have to think twice, when i got home i immediately reconnected the powerbox!

Did some math and if on average i consume 1 ltr/100km less with the powerbox it already saved me 45 euros the last 3350 km (that's when i installed it.)

The powerbox was the cheapest i could find, 60 euros on Ebay, so after an other 1500 km's it already paided for itself and after that it's saving me money on fuel consumption.

Not a bad investment ;) and i also have noticable more torque with the powerbox connected. The box i got was dailed in for economics, not max power. You can adjust the box with a little screw, i gave it one turn after raising the boost so still not maxed out on power but i don't care about that, bought it to save money on fuel.

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Did a nice job today, i changed my timing belt! Milage: 146.825 kilometre and 9 years old. Not yet needed (160.000 km or 10 years) but i will hit 160.000 this winter and then it will be to cold to lay under the car on the driveway.

Printed the instuctions from ETIS, read them before i started and just begun.

Drained the coolant, removed some plastic bits and then i could see my timing belt.

The instructions from the ETIS are very strange, you need 3 blocking pins but you don't use them together. After you change the belt you have to turn the engine 10 times and check everything again.

Don't know why they wrote it like this, it's very confusing and this way it looks like only very experienced mechanics can do it.

So i followed the guidelines to the point where i lined up the camshaft sprocket so i could fit the blocking pin in the sprocket. Then i inserted the blocking pin for the crankshaft.

In the instructions they speak of 2 different ways to line up the IP, one's with a blocking pin, the other is the allignment of some holes in the sprocket and a hole in the engine block.

Mine is the latter version so to make sure i wouldn't turn the IP sprocket when i removed the timing belt i marked a tooth and a bolt so i would know and see that it would be at the same position when i would install the new timing belt.

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So that's the way i did it, i renewed the timing belts of several petrol engine's in the past and the trick then was always, don't turn anything when the belt is off, this is the way to make sure the new belt is installed correctly. And it doesn't matter if the marks where lined up properly, if the new belt is fitted exactly as the old one it's always ok.

The ETIS instructions also state explicitly not to touch the outer ring of the small crankshaft pulley, it has little magnetised sections, exaclty like the ABS ring in the reardrum. But they do want you to remove the pulley, bit strange, only ups the change of damaging the ring. So instead of removing the pulley i removed the sensor, one M6 bolt and there's enough room to get the belt in and out between the pulley and the engine block so don't remove the pulley, remove the sensor!

So i just removed the old belt, replaced the coolant pump and put on the new belt. Because 2 of the 3 sprockets where fixed it was a piece of cake, just had to make sure my own made mark on the IP sprocket was in the right position and voila!

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Did have a little thinking about the gasket for the coolant pump, the original pump is a Pierburg with a metal gasket. My new pump is a Bosch with a paper gasket.

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So i first thought about re-using the metal gasket, is easier to position and it looked real good, almost new.

The only thing stopping me is the fact that if it would leak i would have to do it all over again and that's something i just don't want to do.

So i put in the paper Bosch gasket.

The next thing is the belt tensioner, they instructions say you have to position something between the marks but you just can't see what it is on the drawings.

But the moment i moved the tensioner with the Allen key i saw what they meant. Still a pita to get it right, you just can't look, move the Allen key and tighten the bolt in one go. So after trying and messing up 3 times trying to make it perfect this is how it ended up but i'm happy with it, it's a bit tight but it's spring loaded so there's just a little bit of tension extra this way, negligible i would say.

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Put al the rest of the stuff back and topped up the coolant with 4,5 litres. (draining by pulling of the bottom hose of the radiator was about 3 litres, when you loosen the bolts of the coolant pump don't stand/lie under it, there was a bout 1,5 litres coolant draining from the pump so you can get pretty wet if you don't expect it ;) )

Turned the key (ETIS says to disconnect the battery, i didn't do that because i didn't want to loose my tripcounter and have to reprogram my Scangauge) and the engine came to life! No strange sounds, everything worked like it should so job well done and a bit smarter then Ford wants you to do it ;) .

The old and the new belt:

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New and old coolant pump:

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Fans old and new coolant pump:

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New pump in place:

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My own marking on the IP sprocket and the blocking pin in the camshaft sprocket:

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New belt in place and motor support already put back on:

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The "warzone":

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So i don't forget when i changed the belt:

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Did a little thing today after work.

Had an old aluminium drinking bottle which i converted to an oil catch can.

Forgot to take pictures of the "build" :rolleyes: so only a few pics of the finished product.

Removed the cap, was plastic and a brass waterconnector threaded in nicely. The counterpart of the connector had a hose connection and i could slide in a 15 mm copper pipe, let it stop about 2 cm above the bottom. I soldered the pipe in place so it's fixed and watertight. Drilled about ten 4 mm holes in the side of the pipe, all on one side on a row.

When i install the pipe all the holes are on the opposite side of the outlet in the side of the bottle.

The outlet is just a quickcoupling which i installed in the side of the bottle, just drilled a hole and put it in and sealed/glued it with silicon sealant.

Filled the bottle with stainless steel pan scrub things, don't know the english names but they will keep the oil in the can and let the air out.

I had a hose from a Ford Ka from the scrapyard and that was just the right lenght to get from the PCV to the top of the bottle and to cut of a little bend piece to fit on the outlet.

Used the original short rubber hose, removed the plastic insert which sits in the turbo inlethose and fixed it to the Ka hose.

To close the hole in the turbo inlethose i took a 16 mm Allen bolt, put on a retainer and a nylock nut and cut off the remaining threaded piece. The Allen head fits the hole in the hose nicely, the retainer prevents it from being sucked in, could do a lot of damage!

Sadly no pics of the installed stuff, began to rain very hard so had to run inside ;)

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Arjen,

I must say that your thread has been very well hidden amongst these forums, but I have to say I am extremely impressed with your modifications and successes. By far though, I feel that your Cruise Control modification was the best one to date! I have never seen someone take it and make it as you have done.

How possible would it be for you to write up a thorough "how to" guide on installing cruise control completely from scratch? I know that we have a few where you just add the buttons, change the setting and done, but I think it would be an excellent addition to the forum for someone to say "here's a car that never would have otherwise had Cruise Control, and here it is working!"

Keep up the good work, and now that I know your thread is here, I look forward to reading more delights!!

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Thanks James :) !

I like technical mods, don't care about eyecandy mods so maybe that's why my thread doesn't jump out ;)

Will think about a How-To on installing any after market cruise control, interesting idea and i still have all my pics to make things a little clearer.

Most mods i wanted are done now, next week i hope to replace the EGR blanking plate with a 6 mm hole with a solid one. Also want to remove the complete EGR pipe to the inlet and plug off the hole to make the inside flush so the airflow in the inlet will be less disturbed.

And there is one mod i also still like to try, when removing my EGR pipe i end up with 2 coolant hose connections (my EGR pipe is cooled). My Mercedes had a build in diesel heater with a thermostat. It heated the diesel to 25 degrees Celsius all year round. The electrical heater originally found in the Ford fuel filter does little and only when it's really cold. Don't have much confidence in a piece of PCB hidden in a fuelfilter.

So if i install the Mercedes version i think my fuel economy will benefit from it because the diesel will inject in finer droplets because of the warmer, thinner diesel. Plus i think the life of my IP will benefit from it because cold, thick diesel is harder to pump then warm, thinner diesel.

Just have to go to the scrapyard to get some extra quickcouplings so i can experiment.

But first i will test my oil catch can when i go to work tomorrow (130 km round trip), i'm very curious ti see if the oil will stay in!

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Drove to and from work today with my oil catchcan. This morning, still dark, i could see fumes in my left headlight when i had to wait for trafficlights.

When arriving at work it was a bit lighter and i didn't see anything.

This afternoon drove back, saw nothing but when i looked under the hood with the engine still running i could see puffs of smoke/fumes coming out of the catchcan outlet pipe.

So decided to remove it and take it apart. Was also curious about the amount of oil i would find in the can.

The little piece of hose on the outlet side of the catchcan had an oil drop hanging from it so the stainless steel pan scrub things don't work that well.

When taking it apart i could see very little oil in the bottle, looked like 1 drop on the bottom. Even the stainless steel scrub things were relatively clean, just very slightly covered with oil but just barely.

Looks like i must think of an other way to fill the bottle, even more scrub things or other kind of mesh.

Did take pics of the installed bottle and the disassembled bottle. Think the best option would be to have a bottle that has a removable bottom so i can stuff the bottle nice and full with the srcub things, the way i constructed it now i first have to fill the bottle with the scrubs but that way i can't fill it solid because then i can't get the pipe in.

Not very clear but the oil catchcan installed (ty-raps are just to make sure the Allen bolt can't fall out, it fits snugly but just to be sure):

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And the catchcan disassembled:

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Read somewhere that there's a litle sieve in the oil feed line to the turbo. And that in some cases it would clog up and then your turbo would be toast.

So to check i removed the lower bolt from the oil feed line to the turbo (i knew it was in that bolt and not the upper bolt connecting the line to the turbo.).

First looked in ETIS to find the right torque to put it back again (30 Nm). But they also state to replace the 2 copper rings sealing the banjo. Off course i wasn't going to do that so i just fastened it with a little more torque, about 38 NM.

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When i took it out i already could see it was completely clean but to make sure i soaked it in brake cleaner. After that is was sure it was really clean.

Put it back and checked for leaks by starting the car.

Let it idle for a minute and then raised the revs to about 2000 rpm. When i then raised the revs very slowly to about 2200 rpm the revs suddenly dropped to about 1900 and immediatly came back up to 2200 rpm. So i lowered the revs, did the same thing again and again the revs dropped and rose again.

When looking at my Scangauge (had the MAP visible) i also noted the MAP dropping to about 90 kpa (0.9 bar). I did notice the drop below barometric pressure before but only after i removed the DPF, cat and semi blanked the EGR (6 mm hole).

And only when idling just after driving.

Don't know after which mod it occured for the first time but i did find it strange becase it's a turbo engine, not a normally aspirated engine.

The latter always has a vacuum in the inlet but a turbo shouldn't have i think.


The only explanation i can think of is that when the DPF and cat were still present and the EGR wasn't semi blanked the back pressure in the exhaust manifold was a lot higher. This is where the EGR gets it's gasses from.

Now with the mods done the exhaust gasses can flow out almost freely, just a turbo and one muffler at the end of the exhaust.

So when my EGR valve opens, always at partial load, the pressure in the inlet is higher then in the exhaust thus i'm loosing boost at that point.

But that wouldn't account for the vacuum in my inlet.

I also have a throttle valve, a butterfly valve after the turbo. I know it is used to make the engine stop more neatly by closing when i turn the key to stop the engine.

But i don't know what it does when the engine is running and especially at low revs. Will it close partially to compensate for the extra gasses entering the inlet through the EGR?

That's what' i think is happening when i see the MAP drop below 100kpa (1 bar or 1000mbar, the outside air pressure).


(Just thinking it through another time, i think the only thing responsible for the drop in pressure is the perforated blanking plate.

Think when i put in a solid blanking plate the drop will be even bigger.)


So now i can do 2 things.

1) Just blank the EGR completely and do nothing, live with the dropping pressure so to say.

2) Or i can remove the "butterfly" from the throttle valve and see what happens. That way i will always have max air entering the engine.

Just don't know what errors that will generate if any.


Third option is to get the EGR deleted in the ECU so i can also phisically remove the valve. That will be my last choice as that's the one costing me money ;)


Mmmm, still some thinking to do, already made the solid blanking plate so that's gonna go in no matter what. Also thinking of replacing my glowplugs, i almost know for sure they're 9 years old an never changed so will do all that in one go.

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Nothing done on the car but did some prep work for the next two mods

Dug up my spare fuel thermostat and heat exchanger from my Mercedes (W124).

If i look behing my engine there is enough room to put these there if i loose the EGR pipe and cooling. Just have to think of a solution to connect the hard plastic lines to the thermostat. Don't want to cut the quick coupling off it so maybe a trip to the scrapyard.

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Another dumb thing about the Fusion is the fact that the mirrors are heated but only if you put on the rear window heating! Don't know on what drugs the designer was but i guess he only looked in his outside mirrors when driving backwards or something.

The times your rear window will fog up is just a little percentage of the outside mirrors being fogged up or wet with rain.

Also had heated outside mirrors on my Benz but their designer was awake when designing the heating strategy.

The mirrors from the Benz have a thermostat integrated behind the mirrorglass. As soon as you turn your ignition key there's current going to the mirrors. If the outside temp is below 15 degrees (Celsius) the mirrors are heated. As soon as the temp of the thermostat is above 25 degrees it cuts the current. When it drops below 15 degrees again it switched on again.

All automatic, very reliable and a dream when your mirrors are wet or fogged up, within a few hundred yards you have full vision in both mirrors.

So i disassembled a spare mirror from the Benz and removed the thermostat. Connected my multimeter, put the thermostat on an icecube and had max Ohm's. Put it on a warm surface and hey presto, zero Ohm's.

Next step is to have a look in my car. I have to disconnect the mirrors from the rearwindow heating and connect them to a switched power point. Then remove the mirrorglasses from the mirror and see if there's a way to put the thermostat behind the glass and into the power feedline.

That way i will have clear mirrors all the time, must safer and the way Ford should have made it in the first place.

(The Benz way is 3 times older, car is from 1986, the Fusion from end of 2004 so you would think they would have had an even better approach to safety and comfort.)

Will have to go to the scrapyard to get 2 Benz mirrors, need to be post 1987 cause before the on and off temps of the thermostat were lower and less effective.

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Did something usefull today, blocked my EGR completely!

Already had a blocking plate with a 6 mm hole in it but i wanted it completely closed. The plate with the hole didn't generate any errors so i took the chance.

Took off the top of the airfilter box, again enough evidence my direct cold air intake is working because of all the dead bugs in my airfilter box ;) .

Then removed the airfilter box itself and also the inlet pipe.

Thought i also had to remove the fuelfilter but that wasn't necessary.

Had to remove the 2 bolts of the EGR completely because the plate with the hole i made had just 2 holes, not slots for the bolts.

Last time i didn't loosen the bolt from the EGR cooler, now i did and that made the job a lot easier, well less difficult ;) .

I wanted to take out the plate with the hole carefully because i was curious how the soot build up would be on the plate and if the hole would be still open.

On the exhaust side there was a 1 mm soot build up (plate has been in it for 5000 miles) so this proofs that even in a small time you can seriously pollute your inlet. Glad it's completely blocked now!

So i put the bolts back in, put the blanking plate in and fastened the whole stuff. Now i had the chance to get to it i also measured the end of the pipe which connects to the inlet. I want to make a thick plug so the inlet canal will be flush when i remove the pipe.

Put all the other stuff back in and started the car. Let it idle for a minute but no errors. So drove about 50 kilometres with different speeds and no error.

This also explains why the MAP sinks below atmosferic pressure, 900 instead of 1000 mbar, when the engine is cold and i drive slow.

But the outside temperature was about 20 degrees so not cold. And i know that when it's colder the throttle will partially close to let more exhaust gasses in through the EGR. So we'll see what happens when it's getting colder.

But luckily i found a really nice pdf on the net yesterday. It completely explains all the sensors and actuators in my car. Could post it but i don't think i can because it's copyrighted (and made by the makers of our cars............)

It's about diesel injection and engine managment systems

Can give the link: https://www.google.com/url?q=http://diendan.studentzone.vn/attachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D9269%26d%3D1376495411&sa=U&ei=08RBUqLNBdGd7gaV04GoAg&ved=0CAcQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNGLrYlMkYeBeB-0rE3fQVlkPESIKg

(For the mods: If it's also not allright to post the link, feel free to remove it, don't want to do something illegal................. ;) )

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Did some pre work on a mod i think nobody has ;) .

Yesterday i blocked my EGR but to be honest i now miss some umpf when driving away. Can also see that the inlet pressure drops to about 890 mbar absolute or -110 mbar to be more clear.

This means the engine has to suck in air instead of getting it pumped in by the turbo. The reason that's happening is because the ECU wants to get the engine up to working temperature as soon as possible and partially closes the throttle. Normally this would mean that the engine would suck in more exhaust gasses but as that's blocked now it just creates a vacuum.

The easiest solution to this is probably just to get the EGR mapped out of the ECU (i assume the throttle will also be taking into account when they tune the EGR out but i'm not sure) but then i would have to cough up some money (50 or 75 euro's) and drive about 200 kilometres.


So i'm gonna defeat the ECU myself but mechanically! Thought about how to do it and there are 2 options i could do.

1) Remove the throttle valve internals, the butterfly from the butterfly valve.

2) Relocate the EGR valve and let it suck in filtered clean air instead of exhaust gasses. The whole system will work as intended with one major difference, you won't foul your intake but all the electronics and related adjustments will work like they should.

The reason i know how to defeat it is the pdf i linked to in the previous post. That's why i always want to know how things work and how they look on the inside, helps you troubleshoot a lot better when tehre is trouble and you can change or adjust things because you know how it works.

So i'm gonna opt for the second option first. Reason being that option 1 has an effect that i don't know the outcome from. The ECU will want to partially close the throttle, axle will turn but because there will be no more "butterfly" in the valve that's all that's gonna turn, no restriction in airflow. And the one thing i don't know what will happen then is that the MAF will expext less flow but the flow won''t drop like the ECU expects. It may not generate any errors but on the other hand it could very well generate errors. That's something i can't find anywhere.

Second option is gonna be quit simple, looking in the parts catalog the 2 clamps in front and in the rear of the EGR cooler have the same number so they must be the same size. So if i remove the EGR cooler, relocate the EGR to fit directly on the EGR pipe there will be room to connect a simple hose to the inlet side of the EGR and drill a hole in the top of the airfilter box and connect it there. That way the EGR will suck in fresh, filtered air and won't foul up the intake. But that way the engine will also get more air into the cilinders al low revs and cold engine and will run stronger (it did with the 6 mm hole in the EGR blocking plate).

And the reason why i do not connect the hose to for example the PCV hose is that the air that's going through the EGR mjst be unmeasured by the MAF, the exhaust gasses weren't measured either.

Well, at least that's the theory ;) .

So i made two 1 cm thick aluminium flanges, one solid and one with a 19 mm hole to fit a brass 90 degree coupling.

The solid one will close the hole in the cilinder head where the EGR used to be, the other one will be fitted to the inlet of the EGR.

I will have to drill a hole in the lid off the airfilter box to fit another brass 90 degree coupling. Then put a hose in between the two and do a testrun.

Will probably install it on Friday, tomorrow i have to do something on the house and i only have 2 hands ;)

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keep up the good work

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Thanks!

Because it was warmer (above 20 degrees) then expected i didn't do anything on the house (have to put foil to the inside of the roof so much to hot).

But i did install my "Inlet Gas Bypass" or IGB, formerly known as EGR.

Removed the airfilter box again, can now do it in under 5 minutes ;) . Don't know if that's a good sign, means i have been removing too many times!


After that i first removed the EGR pipe which connects the EGR cooler to the inlet. Simple, 2 screws and a clamp. Then removed the bolt holding the EGR cooler and loosened the clamp holding the cooler to the EGR valve. It's a different one from the other clamp, first clamp is tightened with an Allen bolt, this one has ends that click together. Seems like a previous owner also removed it once, there was a hoseclamp arond the original clamp because it's very difficult to get the original one to click together. Location isn't helping either.

Because i have a cooler i first had to remove the coolant hoses before i could remove the cooler itself. Because i wasn't going to use or install the cooler again i simply connected the inlet hose of the cooler to were the oulet hose of the cooler was connected. To my surprise there hardly ran any coolant out.

After that i removed the EGR valve itself.

Took two short bolts, my 1 cm thick aluminium blanking plate and blocked off the hole in the cilinderhead. To make sure it could stand the heat i also reinstalled the stainless steel blanking plate, the aluminium is just so the thinner stainless steel one doesn't buckle.

After that the fun began, i had to change the bend in the EGR pipe, so the trail and error began.

After bending it the way i thought it should be i tried it with the EGR valve, was way off, couldn't fit my airfilter box no more. After a bit more trying and bending i got it right. Not exactly like i wanted it but because of the limited space it will do.

Tried to make a bracket but screwed that up, secured it with some stainless steel wire but will have to redo the bracket. Didn't feel like it to do it now, first had to test if it would work before wasting a lot of time on a bracket.

Reinstalled the airfilterbox (first plugged the EGR valve back in off course) and looked for the best location for the air to EGR connection in the airfilter lid.

Was very simple, drilled a hole, filed it to the right size and screwed in the brass 90 degrees coupling. Connected the hose and voila, everything done!

Whole job took about 2,5 hours.

Now it was time to testdrive!

Started the engine and saw that the inlet pressure didn't drop below 980 mbar absolute, -20 mbar. Then drove of, very little throttle and the pressure didn't sink below 980 mbar.

When the engine was at operating temp. gave it some gas. Strange thing is it doesn't reach the max boost it had before the operation. Before i had 1,25 bar boost, now it stops at 1,05 bar.

Thought maybe the clamp was leaking air but after i got back i sprayed it with soapy water and no bubbles.

So the EGR valve doesn't shut like it should. I know because when i had it out of the car i blew on one end and you could hear air going through. I did clean it with brake cleaner but as the valve is closed when disconnected i couldn't clean the sealing surface of the plug.

Did give it a good spray with teflon spray but if there is coal on the sealing sufaces it won't come out on it's own.

Will testdrive it some more, have to drive 150 kilometres this evening so that will be a good testrun to see what happens.

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Well, the idea was brilliant, the implementation was briljant, wish the EGR valve would also have been brilliant ;) .

I now know for sure, after driving 150 kilometres, that it's the EGR valve that's leaking and causing my boost loss.

When driving on the motorway the inlet temperature rises 17 degrees above the outside temperature, normally it would only rise 1 or 2 degrees above outside temp. As soon as you release the throttle you see the boost but also the inlet temp. drop.

So it's the EGR valve that's ruining it all.

If it would close perfectly this would be the perfect solution to the boostdrop/vacuum at low revs and cold engine.

Will have to think of a way to clean the plug and seat of the EGR valve. If that can't be done option 2 will have to be done. One way or the other, i want to get rid of the annoying boostdrop/vacuum.

Will be continued....................!

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Looked at the airfilter today, you can clearly see that the EGR valve is the culprit. So simply blocked the hose with a rubber plug, reconnected the hose and put an extra hoseclamp over it so it can't fall into the hose.

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Went for a ride after that. Was 12 degrees when i started, saw pressures below atmosferic 3 times but after that no more. Basically because i only have to drive about 700 metres to the nearest expressway (100km/hr). Didn't notice very much from the vacuum spikes, lot less in comparison to the first time i blocked the EGR.

So after a lot of thinking i'm not gonna bother to see if i can get the EGR valve clean. Maybe in the future when i come across an other EGR valve on the scrapyard so i can take that apart and practise on that before i destroy my own EGR. Especially because you have to code a new EGR valve, it that wasn't the case i wouldn't think a second to take it apart! On the other hand there would be no reason to do so because if i had a vacuum EGR valve i wouldn't have a throttle valve ;) .

So i decided to make a plug to plug off the inlet channel. Luckily i thought of measuring the EGR hole in the inlet so i could make one.

Simply made a round from 1 cm thick aluminium, also had an old worn O-ring from the EGR pipe so i could test the size. Found 2 retainers in the exact correct size to fit above, 4 mm thick together and made a flange of stainless steel.

Also made an extra EPDM gasket to fit in between and between the flange and the inlet channel.

Fixed them together with a M6 bolt and a nyloc nut. Also put an other nut on top to secure it extra, don't want a bolt falling into your engine!

Tomorrow i will fit the EGR valve at the original position with the blanking plate. The other side of the EGR valve i will block with thick aluminium foil and the original clamp. Thought of making a thin blanking plate but ther will be no pressure or vacuum at that side of the valve so there's no need for a real blanking plate on that side.

EGR cooler is already gone so that's easy. Will also remove the EGR pipe and fit the above mentioned plug.

That way i loose a little weight (already lost the most weight with the EGR cooler) and the turbo will reach the boost a little earlier because of the smaller inlet content.

Also will remove the throttle valve to see if there a smart way to remove the "butterfly" disc, i know it's attached to the axle with 2 small screws but because the disc is horizontally when the engine is stopped. Probably will get the screws out but i also have to put them back and if that isn't gonna work i will have a problem!

If i get the disc out i will measure it and make a stainless steel one myself but then with a hole or a flat side on it. That way it can't close off the complete inlet and that's essentially what i want. And that way i can test it if it works and if there will be an error because the MAF will see more flow then it will expect. If there's no error it can stay in, if there's an error i can put the original disc back in.

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Before i forget, last week i sprayed the whole underside of the car with underside coating, there was still no rust so better to protect before anything gets attacked by rust.This way it's ready for winter.

Today i (hopefully) finally did the last hing about the EGR. Removed my installation and refitted the EGR valve in it's original position. Before fitting it i blocked the outlet with a double layer of very thick aluminium foil, it's just to keep the dirt out, not to keep any pressure in. Put the original clamp around it so it will stay in place.

Off course i also put the solid blanking plate in between the EGR valve and the cylinderhead but that's a no brainer.

Then i installed the plug in the inlet where the EGR pipe connected before. I put liquid gasket between every layer of metal of the plug to make sure there's no where to let pressure escape.

Also put in 2 O-rings, black one is from a Peugeot, the green one is my original one but it has a little notch out of it. But this way it's double sealed.

After that i removed the throttle valve body. The axle with the disc is springloaded so you can push it vertical. This way you can reach the 2 screws holding the disc. So i removed the disc and made an other one. But when i was about ready to install it i thought, why am i doing this, why not test directly without the disc? But because the new disc was as good as done i still put in, just to see what would happen.

So installed everything, also plugged the hole in the airfilter box lid, no pics of that. Just 2 retainers, bolt and nut and 2 pieces of EPDM.

Drove a little testround, no errors so went home and removed the complete disc, no more throttle valve bothering me!

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I swear, by the end of this, your car cant actually be called a Ford, as none of the systems will behave as they were originally designed, and there will be so little left of Ford in there, it will be a new manufacturer altogether ;) lol!

Loving it!

Gombal likes this

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Thanks James!

Well, if they designed it like they should i wouldn't have to change so much ;) .

Talked about my side mirrors with a colleague this morning and to my surprise he said that a lot of other brand cars also work this way, mirrors heat when activating the rear window heating. Just can't imagine why they do it that way, what is more comfortable and easy then letting the mirrors decide for them self, simple thermostat and every body is happy. If they just looked at a 27 year old Mercedes ;)

I can't remember one time with the Mercedes that i wanted to turn on the mirrors myself, the chosen temps of the thermostats were perfect.

So will have to see of that mod can be implemented before fall really kicks in, would be so convenient.

(I still think they designed this way of activating the mirrors manually when they were drunk but that's my opinion)

So, back to the EGR/throttle mod.

When driving to work today after about 17 km driving my engine light lit up :) . Looked in the Scangauge and it was error P0103. Didn't know what it was at that point but looked it up later. To much flow through the MAF, nice, just what i was after!

Tried to clear the code whilst driving (in our Suzuki Wagon R+ that's no problem) but it refused. so drove to work and cleared it there.

On the way back no error. Don't know if it's because the system is learning or because the outside temperatures where higher (about 7 degrees higher, 16 this afternoon, 9 this morning) but we'll see tomorrow morning.

Hope the system is learning, my colleague had a VW Golf and it took 3 times clearing the code because it's EGR was blanked and after that the error never came back. Hope the Ford system is just as "smart".

If it isn't i will have to make a disc for the throttle that has a hole in in that's just big enough to let in enough air but small enough to keep the error away. If the error will come back the coming days i will make a couple of discs, all with different size holes drilled in it. Hope it doesn't come to that ;) .

What are the advantages of the complete EGR valve blanking and also removing the EGR pipe and removing the disc from the throttle?

1) My EGR valve was leaking internally, i didn't knew that till i experimented with my own fresh air supply system. If i look at my boost pressures now you can clearly see the difference. At 1800 rpm (80 km/hr in 5th) i have 0.1 bar more boost, at 2200 rpm (100 km/hr in 5th) i have 0.2 bar boost more and at 2800 rpm (120 km/hr in 5th) i have 0.35 bar more boost. Max boost is the same, 1.25/1.30 bar.

So EGR valve was leaking big time but you don't see it till you blank the EGR.

Boost rises so incredible fast now, amazing. Also the removal of the complete EGR piping will have a little part in this.

2) The removal of the throttle disc makes the boost come on as soon as the rpm rises above idle speed, you can now drive at idle speeds and slowly increase the throttle and the engine will pickup so smooth you can't imagine it's the same engine! So that's why i hope the ECU will just learn the new situation and stop throwing errors ;)

Curious to see what happens tomorrow morning!

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Im curious also, it seems odd that its misreading like that...I didnt think you could have too much air flow? as long as you had enough fuel, air shouldnt be a problem?

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