nice to hear it solved the problem =)
Gombal: Ford Fusion 1.4 Tdci Trend 2004
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Posted 26 July 2013 - 12:45 PM
Yes, that's true but i still it's strange that it's possible to suck in exhaust fumes. If i didn't remove the cat you would have never know that you're breathing exhaust fumes because the cat was masking the smell.
I think it's a very serious design flaw. Can't be healthy to breath in exhaust fumes, even if you don't smell them, they're still there.
And i know, it's only when driving under 45 mph with the windows slightly open but it's ridiculous that that won't be possible on a modern car. If it was China made i wouldn't be surprised but from a Ford i expect something else.
If it continues to be nice weather i will investigate it further next week, let the motor run, blower on max and than lie under the car and see if i can locate any holes, slits, cracks or whatever under the trunk that will blow air. If it can come out it also can go in! Maybe with some soapy water to make it visible.
If i can find anything and i can reach it than i'm gonna put body kit on it to seal any opening that can be sealed without causing moisture to stay in. Don't want an airtight car that will rust 3 times faster
Posted 27 July 2013 - 01:31 PM
Got my two blank spare keys made. One's without remote control, the other with.
Few weeks back i already programmed the remote control one so i could start with it (removable key bit). Have a chinese VCM clone and i don't know hoe i did it but it worked .
With two working keys it's easy to program the other one, first key in, 3 seconds on contact, second key in (within 10 seconds), also 3 seconds on contact, unprogrammed key in, 3 seconds on contact and it's programmed.
Nice to know i have a working spare key now (and a key for my wife).
Ordered them online, ordered an extra key bit because i first wanted to make the key bits myself, the round Ford keys are super simple to make, small file and some patience.
I did actually manage to copy my key myself, not as neat as the keymaker did but it starts the car. It doesn't open the car door however.
Probably because i filed away a bit to much and the ignitionlock has been used a lot more and will be worn more.
But was nice to try and see that it worked
Posted 28 July 2013 - 10:42 AM
Was thinking yesterday, everytime i take the car and drive i notice that the fuel consumption is a bit (0,5-1,0 lpk on the Scangauge) higher while the engine hasn't reached it's working temperature. i can test and compare that very easily cause were about a kilometre away from a 12 km long 60 mph way. So everytime i get on that i swith on the cruiscontrol (it has 3 memories so the speed will be the same everytime i select the 60 mph button) i notice that.
With these outside temperatures and summer that's not a problem but i wonder what it will be like in winter when it's freezing.
So i looked at the fuel preheater but i can not find any info on that as to temperatures. (Already post this question in the Fiesta forum, could have done it in the Fusion forum but the Fiesta forum has more visitors and also has this engine)
Also don't know if the ecu does anything with the fueltemperature.
Then i remembered the preheater which is on my Benz. It's al mechanical, has a thermostat and regulates the fuel temperature all year round so it will be at least 25 degrees Celsius.
One advantage of this is that the injectors will have a better spray pattern because the diesel is less viscous at 25 degrees as opposed to -5 degrees.
Have to look at it but the perfect spot for the Benz preheater would be to disconnect the EGR cooler and use that coolant stream to heat the diesel. Don't know how much and which temp the coolant is there (hot side or the cooled side, will have to follow the hoses) but even if it is just 50 degrees it would be sufficient.
The beauty of this system is that it can be used all year round, it will stabilize the fuel temperature so it will be at least 25 degrees all year round. (off course when it's 30 degrees outside the diesel will also be 30 degrees )
An other thing to think of is the inlet air flow, in summer you want it as cold as possible. In winter though i guess that will work against you. So i'm thinking of making an extra airduct, connect it to the heatshield of the turbo (like in the old days when the cars needed warm air to keep the carburator from freezing)
What i need to let that regulate it automatically is a heat activated inletflap from an old carburator car. Will have a look on the scrapyard next week to see if there still around. Otherwise a hand activated one will do.
This will have, in my opinion, the following benefits in winter. Engine will be at working temperature sooner and because of that my fuel consumption will be lower sooner.
Just theoretical but the only way to know will be to make it and test it in winter.
As i can see most sensors on the Scangauge and my tablet i can see if it works or not.
Sadly the only sensor i can't see is the fueltemperature sensor. I would really like to see that, especially in winter. in the Benz i did put an aftermarket outside temperature gauge on the fuelline, that will be the next best thing to the original sensor.
Posted 02 August 2013 - 10:48 AM
Haven't been to the scrapyard yet, to hot and to busy .
Did a little thing in the car this morning though. Despite of the "DTM style" exhaust tailpipe the smell was still noticable sometimes.
So took the angle grinder and cut off half of the extra tailpipe. Then took the last piece of bend i had laying around and made an downwards facing pipe. The same as the original but now it extends behind the bumper instead of under/in the bumper.
With the "DTM style" tailpipe and a cold engine you could see the smoke in the rearview mirror when accelerating, only in second and third and in the first kilometer. After that you couldn't see any smoke/soot.
When i looked at the finished pipe i noticed it has a strange bend in it, maybe when i have nothing else to do i will make a nice straight pipe but for now it will suffice.
Took it for a spin and now i really didn't smell anything anymore! Hope it stays that way, was beginning ti think to put the cat back because when cruising with my wife she doesn't like it when you smell the exhaust inside the car (don't like it myself either but it's only diesel........... ).
Posted 04 August 2013 - 01:54 PM
Another little modification to the Fusion. Because i didn't got around to go to the scrapyard i made an extra cold air feed to the air inlet.
Very simple but this way the engine has plenty of air to choose from .
First wanted to get it from behind the lower grill but after i looked at it the fake perforated plastic next to the foglight would be an even better place.
So cut the drilled piece out, no flow restrictions also this way.
When attaching it to the car i had to guide it a little bit, there's a piece of metal that's in the way, didn't pay attention when i looked where to put the hose . But it fitted almost perfectly, because of the ducttape the hase could move/get loose a bit so no problem. (Just hope it stays put but wil have to get a cheap wide mouth piece for a vacuumcleaner so i can fix it properly.)
It goes into the side of the air intake, also not the perfect position but hey, you got to start somewhere. And i still hope to loose it all in favor of a real cold air intake with the airfilter relocated.
Posted 06 August 2013 - 08:30 AM
looking good and looks like you have got loads going on
Posted 06 August 2013 - 10:59 AM
Thanks, most of the things i wanted are done, just the rerouting of the airintake has to be done but that's just a matter of finding the right solution (without spending to much )
I'm not the guy for the blue interiour lights and the Tupperware on the outside. (Although the Ford logo puddle lights are on my list, that's something i do like.)
Was just standing next to a bit newer Fusion at the local DIY, if i ever find such a car on the scrapyard and it still has all the black plastic spoiler/skirt thingies on it then i will take them. With it the wheel arches look a bit smaller so the wheels fill the arches a bit better, looks better. Also i think it reduces drag, one of the reasons i removed my rear mudguards. They stick out the side of the wheels and scoop air. With the spoiler/skirt thingies the shape of the car in front and behind the wheels is less obstructing and maybe it will help to lower the fuel consumption even more.
And even if it doesn't do anything for the fuelconsumption, i just like the look of it . And although you could also call it Tupperware, it's original so in my book that doesn't qualify as Tupperware than.
A Fusion with the spoiler/skirt thingies:
Posted 06 August 2013 - 07:05 PM
Went to the scrapyard today , always like to walk around there. Even when i don't need anything, just like to look at all the cars and see if there's anything i can use or something i can modify to use in my own car.
Got two airfilter boxes, one from a Peugeot 206, looks very much like a Fiesta MK7 one, just the inlet is located somewhere else.
The other one was just lying around on the ground but when i googled the filter number it said it's from a Ford Ka.
Both are not plug and play (wouldn't that be great) but i will have to look and see which one will fit the easiest. Thinking of relocating the ECU, that will give me a bit more room, maybe just enough.
Also got a thermostatic airinlet valve from a Golf or Polo, don't know if it is still working but if it isn't, there were more where this one came from . Took it so if i wanted a warm air inlet in winter maybe i can use it.
Also took the strange bend part of a 1.4 HDI inlet pipe (same as my inletpipe) so if i want to modify that i now have a spare!.
Posted 12 August 2013 - 06:00 PM
Removed the extra cold ait intake hose, somehow it was messing up my fuel consumption. Don't know 100% but the strange thing is the fuel consumption rose after i connected the extra cold air inlet. Might be something else but this is the easiest thing to test.
Also checked the airfilter, the first thing i saw is that the direct air inlet works! (Drove behind a lorry full of hay bales this morning )
Then i checked the space for an alternative airfilter location, the 2 airboxes i got from the scrapyard won't fit, i tried but the ECU and the coolant hoses to the radiator are in the way.
There is an other solution, i could relocate my battery. It could go in the boot, there are 2 ways i could fit it there. The plastic battery box can easily be fixed there and the battery bracket is also no problem to attach, just a little bit of drilling some holes.
(Top of Peugeot airbox just to get an idea of the size, is just as wide but not as long)
Then there's lots of space to fit an airbox on the former battery location. Cold, direct air is close by and also the turbo is next to it. The ideal location.
Will have to run 2 thick wires to the boot to hook up the battery.
Just don't know if i can just relocate my battery legally. Don't think it's a problem though, there are more cars were the battery is located in the boot (Mercedes W210) or underneath the drivers seat.(Citroen Picasso)
(Edit: just looked up our MOT rules, APK overhere and the only thing written about the battery is that it should be secured properly. That's it so relocating will give no issue with the APK)
Also removed the resonator box and hose, just to see how clean or filty it was. There was a bit of oil in it so i do want an oil catchcan and let it breath outside instead of back into the inlet. Will keep the turbo and the rest of the inlet oilfree.
The outlet of the turbo:
The butterfly valve:
Agsain the butterfly valve but you can see the EGR connection in the back:
Hose between resonatorbox and butterfly valve, you can see the inlet temp sensor:
Posted 21 August 2013 - 05:42 PM
Nice weather today so i decided to replace the left rear wheel bearing. Last time i had the wheels off to replace the brake fluid i noticed that the left wheel bearing made noise, you can also hear it whilst driving, especially in the right turns.
I know from my Mercedes the center nut could be a problem to get off, had to drill it in half to get it loose.
Surprisingly the center nut came off very easy. Then the next thing was to get the drum off. Had to loosen the handbrake cable but still nothing, the drum was loose but wouldn't come off, you could feel it sticking on the brakeshoes. So i put my wheel back on with 2 nuts so i had a bit more leverage. That way it came off with just a little pursuation.
Then the next thing was to get the old bearing out. Removed the retaining clip and put the drum on two pieces of wood. Got a 32 mm socket and a big hammer. Gave it a few good whacks but nothing. So i heated the drumpart where the bearing is in, not to hot but nice and just not touchable. A few whacks further it went a bit, half of the inner ring fell out so i heated the drumpart again and put some ice cubes in the bearing. Waited a bit and hammered it right out.
Cleaned the whole thing with brake cleaner, sprayed some teflonspray on the in the drum (not on the brake surface off course!).
i put the new bearing in a plastic bag and put it in a bowl with ice cubes to let it "shrink".
Heated the drumpart again and with a little hammering the bearing went in. (First with a piece of wood between the hammer and the bearing, then used the old bearing as an auxiliary tool to get the bearing totally in)
Put a new clip in, cleaned the whole drum again with brake cleaner again and put the ABS signal ring on. It's a circular magnet, put a plastic bag over it, a piece of wood and gentle tapping with the hammer put it right on.
Then i put the drum back on the axle, fastened the center nut with the right torque (235 Nm), readjusted the handbrake, put on the new cap and refitted my wheel. Took it out for a test drive and all was well .
Old and new ABS ring:
Socket and old bolt to whack the old bearing out:
Rear brake internals:
ABS sensor "looking" at the magnetic ring:
Fitted the drum, turned it a few times and removed it again to see if nothing touched. You can see all the little magnetic segments:
Handbrake nut loosened:
Handbrake nut readjusted:
Posted 29 August 2013 - 11:43 AM
Was wondering if my powerbox really made a difference in fuel consumption. Also wanted to make a plug to by-pass the powerbox in winter, diesel is thicker than so when the outside temp. drops below 5 to 10 Celsius i want to by-pass the powerbox so my ip has a bit less stress.
Ordered some Sugru (self curing rubber, heard about it here on the forum), cut a little piece of wire and made my own plug. (If you're wondering what the white stuff is, it's baking paper, wanted some clingfilm but couldn't find it. Thought that it wouldn't stick on baking paper but i was wrong. At least this way i could get it of the plug easily)
Also put in 2 nuts from an old laptop so i can really attach the cable to the by-pass plug.
To test it i refuelled this morning, put the by-pass plug in at the tankstation, zeroed the Scangauge and drove home. My original intent was to let it sit for a whole tank. But after what i saw on the way home i decided i'd seen enough!
On a 80 km/hr road (i have 3 presets in my cruiscontrol so the speed will always be the same) the consumption with the powerbox was between 2,5 and 3,2 ltr/100km.
On a 100 km/hr road the consumption with powerbox was between 4,5 and 5,2 ltr/100km.
On the way back, about an half hour later the consumption without the powerbox on the 80 km/hr road was between 3,0 and 3,6 ltr/100km.
On the 100 km/hr road without powerbox the consumption was between 5,3 and 6,2 ltr/100km.
There was no wind and the outside temp. was still the same.
Didn't test 120 km/hr cause i had no need to go on the motorway.
Also strange but less conclusive is the fact that 2 days ago i also refuelled and drove home (same road, a bit more traffic then so a little more stopping time at trafficlights and round abouts but a little warmer outside, 22 instead of 19.) and the Scangauge gave 3,6 ltr/100km when i got home (20 km drive) This morning without the powerbox it gave 5,3 ltr/100km when i got home.
So i didn't have to think twice, when i got home i immediately reconnected the powerbox!
Did some math and if on average i consume 1 ltr/100km less with the powerbox it already saved me 45 euros the last 3350 km (that's when i installed it.)
The powerbox was the cheapest i could find, 60 euros on Ebay, so after an other 1500 km's it already paided for itself and after that it's saving me money on fuel consumption.
Not a bad investment and i also have noticable more torque with the powerbox connected. The box i got was dailed in for economics, not max power. You can adjust the box with a little screw, i gave it one turn after raising the boost so still not maxed out on power but i don't care about that, bought it to save money on fuel.
Posted 03 September 2013 - 05:00 PM
Did a nice job today, i changed my timing belt! Milage: 146.825 kilometre and 9 years old. Not yet needed (160.000 km or 10 years) but i will hit 160.000 this winter and then it will be to cold to lay under the car on the driveway.
Printed the instuctions from ETIS, read them before i started and just begun.
Drained the coolant, removed some plastic bits and then i could see my timing belt.
The instructions from the ETIS are very strange, you need 3 blocking pins but you don't use them together. After you change the belt you have to turn the engine 10 times and check everything again.
Don't know why they wrote it like this, it's very confusing and this way it looks like only very experienced mechanics can do it.
So i followed the guidelines to the point where i lined up the camshaft sprocket so i could fit the blocking pin in the sprocket. Then i inserted the blocking pin for the crankshaft.
In the instructions they speak of 2 different ways to line up the IP, one's with a blocking pin, the other is the allignment of some holes in the sprocket and a hole in the engine block.
Mine is the latter version so to make sure i wouldn't turn the IP sprocket when i removed the timing belt i marked a tooth and a bolt so i would know and see that it would be at the same position when i would install the new timing belt.
So that's the way i did it, i renewed the timing belts of several petrol engine's in the past and the trick then was always, don't turn anything when the belt is off, this is the way to make sure the new belt is installed correctly. And it doesn't matter if the marks where lined up properly, if the new belt is fitted exactly as the old one it's always ok.
The ETIS instructions also state explicitly not to touch the outer ring of the small crankshaft pulley, it has little magnetised sections, exaclty like the ABS ring in the reardrum. But they do want you to remove the pulley, bit strange, only ups the change of damaging the ring. So instead of removing the pulley i removed the sensor, one M6 bolt and there's enough room to get the belt in and out between the pulley and the engine block so don't remove the pulley, remove the sensor!
So i just removed the old belt, replaced the coolant pump and put on the new belt. Because 2 of the 3 sprockets where fixed it was a piece of cake, just had to make sure my own made mark on the IP sprocket was in the right position and voila!
Did have a little thinking about the gasket for the coolant pump, the original pump is a Pierburg with a metal gasket. My new pump is a Bosch with a paper gasket.
So i first thought about re-using the metal gasket, is easier to position and it looked real good, almost new.
The only thing stopping me is the fact that if it would leak i would have to do it all over again and that's something i just don't want to do.
So i put in the paper Bosch gasket.
The next thing is the belt tensioner, they instructions say you have to position something between the marks but you just can't see what it is on the drawings.
But the moment i moved the tensioner with the Allen key i saw what they meant. Still a pita to get it right, you just can't look, move the Allen key and tighten the bolt in one go. So after trying and messing up 3 times trying to make it perfect this is how it ended up but i'm happy with it, it's a bit tight but it's spring loaded so there's just a little bit of tension extra this way, negligible i would say.
Put al the rest of the stuff back and topped up the coolant with 4,5 litres. (draining by pulling of the bottom hose of the radiator was about 3 litres, when you loosen the bolts of the coolant pump don't stand/lie under it, there was a bout 1,5 litres coolant draining from the pump so you can get pretty wet if you don't expect it )
Turned the key (ETIS says to disconnect the battery, i didn't do that because i didn't want to loose my tripcounter and have to reprogram my Scangauge) and the engine came to life! No strange sounds, everything worked like it should so job well done and a bit smarter then Ford wants you to do it .
The old and the new belt:
New and old coolant pump:
Fans old and new coolant pump:
New pump in place:
My own marking on the IP sprocket and the blocking pin in the camshaft sprocket:
New belt in place and motor support already put back on:
So i don't forget when i changed the belt:
Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:55 PM
Did a little thing today after work.
Had an old aluminium drinking bottle which i converted to an oil catch can.
Forgot to take pictures of the "build" so only a few pics of the finished product.
Removed the cap, was plastic and a brass waterconnector threaded in nicely. The counterpart of the connector had a hose connection and i could slide in a 15 mm copper pipe, let it stop about 2 cm above the bottom. I soldered the pipe in place so it's fixed and watertight. Drilled about ten 4 mm holes in the side of the pipe, all on one side on a row.
When i install the pipe all the holes are on the opposite side of the outlet in the side of the bottle.
The outlet is just a quickcoupling which i installed in the side of the bottle, just drilled a hole and put it in and sealed/glued it with silicon sealant.
Filled the bottle with stainless steel pan scrub things, don't know the english names but they will keep the oil in the can and let the air out.
I had a hose from a Ford Ka from the scrapyard and that was just the right lenght to get from the PCV to the top of the bottle and to cut of a little bend piece to fit on the outlet.
Used the original short rubber hose, removed the plastic insert which sits in the turbo inlethose and fixed it to the Ka hose.
To close the hole in the turbo inlethose i took a 16 mm Allen bolt, put on a retainer and a nylock nut and cut off the remaining threaded piece. The Allen head fits the hole in the hose nicely, the retainer prevents it from being sucked in, could do a lot of damage!
Sadly no pics of the installed stuff, began to rain very hard so had to run inside
Posted 06 September 2013 - 04:05 PM
I must say that your thread has been very well hidden amongst these forums, but I have to say I am extremely impressed with your modifications and successes. By far though, I feel that your Cruise Control modification was the best one to date! I have never seen someone take it and make it as you have done.
How possible would it be for you to write up a thorough "how to" guide on installing cruise control completely from scratch? I know that we have a few where you just add the buttons, change the setting and done, but I think it would be an excellent addition to the forum for someone to say "here's a car that never would have otherwise had Cruise Control, and here it is working!"
Keep up the good work, and now that I know your thread is here, I look forward to reading more delights!!
- Gombal likes this
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