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Focus C1281 Lateral Accelerometer Circuit Failure


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#1 SkinnyB

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 05:24 PM

Alright folks, just me again.

Right so my ESP light came on a while ago briefly looked into it then forgot about it but now its annoying me now.

So i hocked up the car to my elm and i get the code Code C1281 = Lateral Accelerometer circuit failure.

So my question is has anyone had a similar problem and what did you do to fix it, last thing i want to do is to take it to the stealership and for them to charge me the best part of 500£.

Is it the sensor that needs replacing or might the problem be somewhere else ie wiring or module??

the plan was to start by using the elm cable to try and recalibrate it.i237psz2t50ps9hkluq.jpg

if that doesnt work then replace the whole thing and before someone has a go or tells me off i have located the sensor and read the massive warning thats on it(something too do with this device is vital for the safety of the vehicle please bla bla bla dont remember the rest but quite scary lol)

 

ive taken all the wheel sensors and cleaned them

disconnected battery for the whole night and still the light stays on.

any help or advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers

 



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#2 JW1982

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:39 AM

The Lateral Acceleration Senor is combined with the YAW rate sensor and is located in the steel reinforcement beam under the driver seat.

 

graphic10.jpg

 

This sensor is a very sensitive part which can be damaged if shaken or shocked.

 

 

 

The DTC Code = Lateral Accellerometer circuit failure C1281 basically means there is an open circuit or short circuit connection between the Lateral Acceleration Senor / YAW rate sensor and the Brake Control Module (which is combined with the ABS/ESP pump located in the engine bay).

 

In my opinion the first thing you can do is inspect all of the wiring and connectors of the system. The Lateral Acceleration Senor / YAW rate sensor is connected more or less directly to the Brake Control Module. The wiring consists of only 4 wires. 2 analog signal wires are spliced/connected to the steering angle sensor. The other 2 wires are twisted CAN-bus wires (this is a dedicated CAN-bus system which is only used for the ESP system).

 

A schematic of the ABS/ESP wiring system can be downloaded from the following link:

 

http://rapidshare.co.../Schema IVD.jpg

 

 

 

If the wiring is in good condition it can be excluded as the source of the problem. In this case it is most likely the problem is caused by a broken Brake Control Module or Lateral Acceleration Senor / YAW rate sensor. Boh of them are quite expensive. In my opinion the only way to exclude the Lateral Acceleration Senor / YAW rate sensor is to mount another one (from a scrap car for example).



#3 SkinnyB

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 04:09 PM

cheers for the info mate, but as far as i know if you replace the Lateral Acceleration Senor / YAW rate sensor you will need to recalibrate it to the car so am i not better off just trying that first????

right anyway the plan is (if it not raining tomorrow) got to scrappies tomorrow and pick up a replacement sensor

remove the seats and trace the wiring as far as possible to see if there is any obvious damage or short

try and recalibrate the old sensor see if that helps

replace my old sensor and see if the problem is with the sensor

if none of the above works then i will have to start looking towards the brake control module(which is going to be my least favorite job) i might just see if i can pick up an ABS pump/ brake control module when im at the scrappies as well.



#4 JW1982

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 05:16 PM

The Lateral Acceleration Sensor / YAW rate sensor indeed needs to be calibrated. This can be done with the ELMconfig program. For calibration the car must be positioned on a flat/level surface.

 

The DTC code you mentioned should have nothing to do with the calibration of the sensor but you can give it a try. In my opinion this DTC code indicates a wiring problem.

 

 

Another possible cause of your problem can be the 47-Pin connector of the Brake Control Module. Water ingress into this connector can cause similar problems.

 

 

Buying the Lateral Acceleration Sensor / YAW rate sensor or ABS/ESP pump from a scrapyard could be a risk. These parts are very delicate and can easily be damaged (internally) in a crash or dismantling the car. My advise is do not buy these parts from the shelf from a scrapyard but disassemble them yourself (if possible). The ABS/ESP pump must still be filled with brake fluid and transported/stored in its original position. Otherwise there will be air trapped in the pump which is almost impossible to remove. After changing the ABS pump it needs to be bled with the Ford IDS system.

 

 

A few months ago I retrofiited the complete MK2.5 ABS/ESP system into my MK2 (which previously only had ABS). I bought all nescessary parts from a scrapyard and disassembled them myself. I paid only €100,- for all parts and sensors from a 2011 MK2.5. My advise is to call several scrapyards and ask for the price first. Some of the scrapyards may think these parts are made of gold and charge you big money.



#5 SkinnyB

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 08:40 PM

i'm with you on the DTC pointing more to the wiring. 

Ok so now i'm a bit nervous :blink:  :o  about getting the ABS pump but i'm always up for breaking stuff that i probably wont be able to fix again lol

in your opinion mate, how hard is it a job to remove and replace the ABS pump? out of 10?

never like buying parts from the shelf usually prefer taking it off myself especially if its anything electrical .

i might try all other avenues for now and leave the ABS Pump for when all else fails as i do not have access to a Ford IDS system.

Now you have mentioned the 47-pin connector to the brake control module im starting to suspect that had a quick look at it today but i will have a proper look at it tomorrow before i got to the scappies.

Cheers for all the info it good to hear that someone has tried this before, hopefully i wont run into any problems if i do i will be in touch  :D



#6 aussiefocusfan

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 04:14 PM

I am so glad I found this post. I have the same problem c1281 - we must be one of the only people on earth to have this! There is not much advice anywhere!

 

Rest assured I have been dealing with this code for 18months now, with no solution thus far but I am closer to it.

I have tried to reset my brake module with ELM even reset yaw rate sensor etc with NO luck.

 

I also removed the drivers seat, and checked and cleaned the yaw rate sensor wires. They all appeared to be ok.

 

I don't know how to access the Brake control module or it's location which I guess is in the engine bay?

Anyway I have cleaned sensors on wheels and reset batteries also. I even changed the front wheel bearings and hubs. Did not fix it.

 

I am about to purchased a "used" yaw rate sensor from a scrap yard, It has 35K on the clock this car. My car was 78K.

 

But before I do , I wanted to check the wires in the BCM. SkinnyB please feel free to contact me via private message. We can work this out together! :)



#7 aussiefocusfan

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 04:17 PM

i'm with you on the DTC pointing more to the wiring. 

Ok so now i'm a bit nervous :blink:  :o  about getting the ABS pump but i'm always up for breaking stuff that i probably wont be able to fix again lol

in your opinion mate, how hard is it a job to remove and replace the ABS pump? out of 10?

never like buying parts from the shelf usually prefer taking it off myself especially if its anything electrical .

i might try all other avenues for now and leave the ABS Pump for when all else fails as i do not have access to a Ford IDS system.

Now you have mentioned the 47-pin connector to the brake control module im starting to suspect that had a quick look at it today but i will have a proper look at it tomorrow before i got to the scappies.

Cheers for all the info it good to hear that someone has tried this before, hopefully i wont run into any problems if i do i will be in touch  :D

Mate I suspect ABS pump would be a hard job it links to the brake line



#8 JW1982

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:18 PM

The Brake control module is located in the engine bay (passenger side).

 

P3020016.jpg

 

 

You have to remove the air filter, Battery and battery box before you have access to the Brake Control Module. The Brake Control Module is positioned on a mounting bracket and connected to 6 brake lines and the 47-pin connector.

 

If you want to buy a second hand Lateral Acceleration Sensor / YAW rate sensor from a scrap yard make sure it is the right type of sensor. Depending on the production date of the care there are 4 different versions  which are not compatible because of the different connector.  



#9 Mr_Spock

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:32 PM

I had the C1288 faulty pressure sensor on my abs-pump. Bought a new Hydraulic Control Unit - you don't need to change the entire pump:

 

IMG_8397web.jpg

 

New part in place:

 

IMG_8400web.jpg

 

Not so complicated job, took less than 2 hours, including bleeding the brakes. Be careful with the bolts on the brake lines - and use fingers to enter them to the hydraulic unit.



#10 SkinnyB

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:47 AM

Right guys i've managed to clear the ESP light on my car and the cleared the DTC and touch wood it hasn't come back yet, and this is what i done. first of all i checked and cleaned the 47pin connector for the brake control module (as it was the easiest :P ) no luck. tried to recalibrate the sensors no luck either was getting an error code on my ELM.

So went to the scrap yard REMOVED MYSELF the yaw sensor form a 2008 titanium, easy enough as the seats where already taken  out. 

Took my drivers seat out and a few trim bits, pulled the carpet out and replaced the bugger! Turned on the ignition on the light came back on then turned straight off as if the car was doing the checks and all was ok. Tried to recalibrate the sensors again and still same error on my ELM so i just left it like that.

Changed the sensor on Tuesday and like i said neither the code C1281 nor the ESP light have come on.

 

Richard, i know the feeling trying everything but nothing works. i would go that route as well (buy or if possible go to the scrap yard and take it off yourself, if you cant then i suppose just buy one) it seems you have checked everything else like i had done so the two next things are to replace the sensor and or the brake control module.

i would start with the sensor yes its not the cheapest but its definetly the easier of the two  :lol:

Just for arguments sake if the problem was related to the brake control module would the ABS light not be on as well?? :mellow:

 

Wilco, cheers for all the info. Much appreciated. 



#11 aussiefocusfan

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 10:31 AM

Right guys i've managed to clear the ESP light on my car and the cleared the DTC and touch wood it hasn't come back yet, and this is what i done. first of all i checked and cleaned the 47pin connector for the brake control module (as it was the easiest :P ) no luck. tried to recalibrate the sensors no luck either was getting an error code on my ELM.

So went to the scrap yard REMOVED MYSELF the yaw sensor form a 2008 titanium, easy enough as the seats where already taken  out. 

Took my drivers seat out and a few trim bits, pulled the carpet out and replaced the bugger! Turned on the ignition on the light came back on then turned straight off as if the car was doing the checks and all was ok. Tried to recalibrate the sensors again and still same error on my ELM so i just left it like that.

Changed the sensor on Tuesday and like i said neither the code C1281 nor the ESP light have come on.

Yes you are very right about trying everything but nothing works.. :) I am going to go to the scrap yard I think. In my country which such an expensive parts car they will likely not allow you into the scrap yard. I will try my luck though! If not I will take their word and get a warranty that it is not a faulty yaw rate sensor.

 

Sorry a little confused with what you've written... you said you changed it over and still had the same error on ELM (c1281) 

 

Then you changed the sensor on Tuesday and have not seen C1281 or ESP light?

Just to confirm did you change it and still have the error and then it just went away...?

Was the 2008 titanium the same model yaw rate sensor? I know the ST and RS have different ones?

 

I am touching wood for you - how long has it been? you know you have to boot it a little to get the c1281 light - normally by driving it a little hard!

Also what did you use to clean the 47 pin connector?  I have maf sensor cleaning spray? Would that work? Also can I access and remove the 47 pin without removing battery etc.



#12 SkinnyB

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 10:14 AM

Yes you are very right about trying everything but nothing works.. :) I am going to go to the scrap yard I think. In my country which such an expensive parts car they will likely not allow you into the scrap yard. I will try my luck though! If not I will take their word and get a warranty that it is not a faulty yaw rate sensor.

 

Sorry a little confused with what you've written... you said you changed it over and still had the same error on ELM (c1281) 

 

Then you changed the sensor on Tuesday and have not seen C1281 or ESP light?

Just to confirm did you change it and still have the error and then it just went away...?

Was the 2008 titanium the same model yaw rate sensor? I know the ST and RS have different ones?

 

I am touching wood for you - how long has it been? you know you have to boot it a little to get the c1281 light - normally by driving it a little hard!

Also what did you use to clean the 47 pin connector?  I have maf sensor cleaning spray? Would that work? Also can I access and remove the 47 pin without removing battery etc.

Appologies if i was not clear enough mate, what i meant to say was i eventually got it working after trying a few things that did not work ie cleaning the connector and trying to recalibrate the sensor. 

After that did not work thats when i changed the sensor and BINGO ESP light was gone and DTC code was cleared and has been gone since. You should have seen the smile on my face  :D .

Yes it was the same model yaw rate sensor, straight swap. I am really not sure if the ST and RS have a different one but i would assume so. best way of going about it then if you cant go into the scrap yard yourself is to check the model number on your yaw rate sensor and cross check it with the one from the scrap yard before you buy it and the warranty would be helpful just in case.

I changed sensor on the 25TH of June so its been a week now and all is still well.

i used electrical contact cleaning spray not really sure if the maf sensor cleaning spray would work or damage anything mate sorry.

Highly unlikely mate from what i saw you will need to take the battery out and the battery housing has to come off as well if you wish to access the 47 pin connector. See how the cleaning goes if that does not work i am hopping that its a faulty yaw rate sensor for you as well.

 

Jus a quick question are you the same person that started a similar topic on the Australian ST Owners Club? 



#13 aussiefocusfan

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 07:53 AM

I started another thread but it was on a South African focus site. Not an Australian site.

 

I called a local scrap yard and they have a Focus ST 225 2008 same year as mine. Funny enough the model of yaw rate sensor is   8M51-3C187-BA which was the one that was in a Focus RS in the Uk on eBay.

My focus ST225 has 3M51-3C187-EA.

So I purchased that for $90AUD and I am waiting on the yaw rate sensor to arrive. I will give it a go.

It is going to be posted as they are located in another State. I couldn't find any locally that I could remove myself.

They are going to offer a 90 day warranty if there is any issues. I just purchased electrical cleaner spray, so I will attack the 47 PIN connector when I do the YWS.

 

My other question is did you clear the built up C1281 error with your OBDII port reader? I use torque with a bluetooth OBDII port reader to clear errors. I hope this will work? I do not have any luck clearing with ELMconfig 0.2.6. I will just use ELMconfig to do the Yaw rate sensor calibration.

 

SkinnyB, one more question. Does the traction light come up for you while driving? Not just when first starting the car?



#14 aussiefocusfan

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 11:30 AM

I got my replacement Yaw Rate sensor from the scrap yard but the  8M51-3C187-BA does not fit, the plug is different. I sent it back and hopefully they can find a 3M51-3C187-EA for me.



#15 andysvision

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 02:16 PM

I had the C1288 faulty pressure sensor on my abs-pump. Bought a new Hydraulic Control Unit - you don't need to change the entire pump:

 

IMG_8397web.jpg

 

New part in place:

 

IMG_8400web.jpg

 

Not so complicated job, took less than 2 hours, including bleeding the brakes. Be careful with the bolts on the brake lines - and use fingers to enter them to the hydraulic unit.

 

Hey mate thanks for the info,i have same problem c1288 failure,thei charged me for a new ABS pomp,crazy expensive.Please can you help me how did you do it?were did you buy the part,and the cost?And explain me the hole procedure,i would realy apritiate it :Thanks.Savior of the day!



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