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Mk3 Tdci Replacement Dmf Help


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#1 Wappygixer

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 01:48 PM

I need to replace the DMF in my 2006 MK3 mondeo. It's idling lumpy from a warm start and gives a metalic noise. It seems fine from cold. I suspect when its cold it contracts to make it sound and work OK. Once running and tickover revs are reached it drives OK but it is just getting it to reach tick over. Yesterday it stalled twice after I stopped at Tesco to do some shopping and when it first starts id idles very lumpy around 500rpm. I'm not happy about DMF but I always knew it was a gamble on a card of this milage and I paid a reasonable price for it.

 

I have a Haynes manual to help me along the way.

 

Having read up throught the manual is says about releasing the steering column in order to remove the subframe. Can anyone confirm if this is actually required? I have read others that have said they have removed the gearbox just by dropping one side of the subframe. This however I have read can damaged some of the bushed the the subframe mounts to.

 

I'm doing this on the road side. I have axle stands and a couple of trolley jacks to help. I'm also going to look at the clutch while its apart. It's done 114K miles from new and has a full Ford history up until 106k miles, I'm the second owner. Can anyone suggest any issues I may face on the way or other things to look out for?

 

Cheers for any help



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#2 flying clutchman

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 10:37 PM

I'm assuming your Mondeo is a diesel. If it's not then it's very unusual to have to replace the DMF. As regards releasing the steering shaft this is absolutely essential but very, very easy. It's a single 10mm headed bolt at the bottom of the shaft inside the car. Onece you've removed it the bracket pivots round and you can pull the shaft free. It's only neccessary to remove the nearside subframe bolts. You'll need to take off the gearchange turret(put a cloth in the hole to stop anything falling in) and you'll be able to pull the gearbox (with a lot of huffing and puffing) clear of the engine onto the wishbone. I've done scores of these and it still takes me 4-5 hours (petrol clutch only) or 6-7 hours (diesel clutch+DMF). I work normally at the roadside with axle stands like you are.



#3 callumthemechanic

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 12:27 PM

Well!! I've just done this myself I'm a ford trained mechanic and I was taught to take the steering rack of compleetly but now not working for ford I work with 30 mondeos (diesel) I can say that you are right you can drop one side of the subframe undoing the 18 on the steering wrack through the wheel arch! It is very hard and will take you a lond time! By the sounds of it you could be having slave cylinder problems too make sure when you take it of have a look and see that it hasn't collapsed if so its 3 8m bolts on the inside of the bell housing

#4 FOCA

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 12:36 PM

Because of the work involved (and the expense if you pay someone else to do it) its normal to replace the clutch and CSC( (concentric) slave cylinder) as well if you are replacing the DMF (dual mass flywheel)  

 

If the clutch has already done 114k miles it would be a good idea to change it, ditto the CSC

 

Normally it would cost £250- £400 or more for labour to get this done, (or 6-7 hours) you don't want to be doing it too often



#5 callumthemechanic

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 04:22 PM

It takes me around 4 hours with a 4 post ramp so a lot longer on the floor

#6 Wappygixer

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 05:04 AM

Well it's all done and went well.

Took quite a few hours due to getting stuck on a few things like removing the gear link cables.Haynes manual tells you to press the middle and pull but I found out you just pull lol.

It already had a new clutch, csc and flywheel in it.These were all made by LUK. The flywheel did have some play in it but not much. This is the only part I replaced as the clutch had no wear to it.

 

Changing my flywheel has not solved my problem unfortunately. It's going into Ford for a software update this week which I'm hoping will solve the problem



#7 callumthemechanic

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 06:19 AM

Could just be an injector leaking off or not pressurising up?

#8 Wappygixer

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 03:58 PM

Cars now been a local garage who has IDS and a software update has calibrated something to do with the fuel pump pressures when warm.

Car now runs sweet as and starts first turn even when warm.

He checked my injectors too and thinks they are pretty new as his readings were very good.

 

Changed my DMF for nothing really but at least I have peace of mind



#9 FOCA

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 06:58 PM

Cars now been a local garage who has IDS and a software update has calibrated something to do with the fuel pump pressures when warm.

Car now runs sweet as and starts first turn even when warm.

He checked my injectors too and thinks they are pretty new as his readings were very good.

 

Changed my DMF for nothing really but at least I have peace of mind

Its always annoying getting work done/ spending money you dont have to (ive seen a few horror stories about garages replacing £1000s of pounds worth of hardware (inc injectors etc) for it to be something cheap like the EGR)- should be good for a fair few mils now though  

 

If the old DMF is in good nick you should stick it on ebay - must be worth something 




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