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saklak

Mk2 Not Entering Learning Mode

28 posts in this topic

Hi All,

First of all nice to meet you ( as I'm new to forum ) and sorry for my english ( not a native speaker ).

My problem appeared 6 months ago. I was just found out about the car self test, I unlocked the car

using the remote entered the self test, looked around there, exit the car, tried to lock it using the remote,

but was not working anymore. If I lock placing key in the door, central locking is working fine. I have a normal 3 button

key with remote on it.

What I tried:

First thing I checked the battery and change it. also cleaned all contacts in there, tried to reprogram the key, no luck. I tried several times,

after the procedure ( 0-II 4 times), I don't hear any sound to confirm entering learning mode.

Second I checked fuses, no fuse regarding central locking was damaged. checked all fuses (gem + motor) nothing wrong here.

I went to be checked by a mechanic, he had a diesel from 2006, he changed his key with mine and tried to program his key

on my car, no luck ( no learning mode ). he also checked fuses.., then he changed his gem with mine and tried with my key

to reprogram it ( but no luck here either, no learning mode ). He said to come another day.. when he has more time ... to check

the wires then I called him, no answer or to call him another day, I gave up on him. Forgot to tell he made also a electronic diagnose

(I think that's how is called) but no errors regarding my key fob.

Finally I went to a local ford dealer, telling that lady on the phone, that I can't reprogram my key. After 2 hours of tests and whatever

they did there, they gave my car back saying that the car is not entering learning mode :) and to come another day if I want, because

needs reprogramming ( I don't know about what was talking here) and they need to check all wires, but it costs alot and is not worth it...

said that guy. They also did an electronic diagnose, which shows no error.

One last thing I tried last few days, I've read about the "service mode" and how sometimes this does not exit how it should and some

car functions are not working ( I was not doing that when stopped working but I said to give it a try) so I saw an reset service mode and tried that, it enters

that procedure, I hear the sound, I followed the procedure but I don't hear the 3 beep at the end of the procedure, when key pos is at 0.

so I think the reset is not done as it should(tried a few times also) ...

I don't have any other electrical problem, just a thing which I'm not sure of, when I have the switch on headlamp and you open the door with no ignition key should

beep right? I think this stopped working at the same time. All other sounds work fine ( door open ... ). As a conclusion I have no

sound when key is at 0 position :)

Car is a focus petrol 1,6 ti-vct, build date 12.2004, mk2

Can someone have any ideea on what might be wrong, an electrical scheme would be nice (just saw the all wiring is here), where is positioned the remote receiver for this car, in GEM or ?

Sorry for the long post, hope that someone can give an advice because I'm tired and frustrated on finding the problem.

Thanks.

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I only scanned your post so sorry if I have missed anything - I have the same problem, where it wont enter learning mode. The problem with mine is the transponder chip I think? They opened my key up and someone had tried to fix it - so it was pretty messy. Why dont you try buying a new key off ebay (£100 from Ford - Im currently winning one for £2.77) and try and reprogram that with. It would probably be easier for you take it to Ford as it is a whole new key so the blade has to be changed over and all that! Good luck

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learning mode is 0 to 2 4 times with the beep happening on the fourth turn as it returns to 0 then press the button on the fob you should get a beep within 3 secs press the button on any spare remotes youll get the beep now switch car on to 2 thenb off thats it no 3 beeps at the end

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@jacksargent93 - already tried that, I went to a mechanic, he has also focus. placed his chip with my blade but same thing. didn't entered learning mode. so I doubt

it would be the key. I would change it but since it costs £100 and if it won't work I'll probably go insane.

@artscot79 - etis sais I - II, 4 times within 6 seconds. tried all of them 0 - 2, 1 - 2 but no beep sound confirming that has entered learning mode. like I said, went to Ford,

I doubt that they don't know how to reprogram a key.. problem is somewhere else.

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if you call a mobile locksmith they can completely reprogramme it may be that too many keys have been programmed once 8 has been done in total the system will not enter learning mode as the maximum has been done all keys would have to be wiped off and restart it again at 0 which sounds like the issue a mobile locksmith is cheaper and will be able to wipe the keys off and reprogramme the original ford will take £100 for the key and cutting £90 to reprogramme

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The procedure which is used to program a new remote control will automatically erase all of the remote controls which are programmed in the GEM module/Fuse box. If the procedure is performed none of the previously programmed remote controls work anymore. You can check the (number of) programmed remote controls with a modified ELM327 interface and the ELMconfig software.

I have seen this problem a number of times now and in my opinion it is caused by a defective GEM module/Fuse box. Some of these GEM modules/Fuse boxes which are not entering the learning mode will still accept entering the serial number of the remote control manually. This can also be done with the ELMconfig program. To find out the serial number of the remote control it may be nescessary to program the remote control to another car and read the serial number with the ELMconfig program.

In few cases it was also not possible to enter the serial number manually. In this cases fitting an reprogramming a new (or used) GEM module/Fuse box did solve the problem.

Programming a used GEM module/Fuse box to your car can easily be done by yourself with the ELMconfig software. The model number of the module must be the same or higher than the current module. It is also possible to fit an MK2.5 GEM module/Fuse box to an MK2 (as a spare part there is only one version available for both the MK2 and MK2.5. This version contains all of the possible options). My experience is that a used GEM module/Fuse box can easily be found at a scrap yard for a fair price. Last year I paid €25,- for a high level 2010 MK2.5 GEM module/fuse box which contains all possible options.

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Like I said, the mechanic changed GEM with his one.

Here's my question now. When you replace the GEM always should be programmed with the car ? It will not enter learning mode if it's not programmed for that car ?

I've read myself that GEM modules are defective, but since my GEM was changed with another one... I thought I eliminated the GEM.

I believe that an ELM327 is usefull anyway... but I want to eliminate the receiver at least or other problems.

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There are some differences between vehicles. Some vehicles do have a seperate external receiver which is mounted between the headliner and the roof of the car. In this case the internal receiver function of the GEM module must be switched off in the software. Other vehicles do not have the external receiver and use the internal receiver of the GEM module. In this case the internal receiver function of the GEM module must be switched on.

If you fit a GEM module from a different vehicle it will only work correctly if all of the settings are correct for your car. If the setting for the internal/external remote control receiver is wrong this function will not work at all.

In the past I have done some experiments with the remote control system and as far as I can remember a defective remote control receiver will generate a DTC code which is stored in the GEM module. These codes can only be read with dedicated software like ELMconfig. Generic software will not show these codes at all.

In my opinion you should read the DTC codes of the GEM module first. This possibly can point you in the right direction. If there are DTC codes stored erasing them can in some cases also solve the problem.

My GEM module stored a DTC code of the rain sensor (which occured after changing the sensor). At the moment that the DTC code was active the rain sensor did not work at all. After erasing the DTC code everything was working correctly again.

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Ok thanks alot all of you. For now I'll try to make my ELMconfig(like JW1982 suggested) and see what I can do. I'll keep you updated with what I've done.

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not being funny but i reckon a mobile will look at it and solve it quickly

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have you tried...replacing the battery in the remote? simple and cheap yet effective.

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@artscot79 - I didn't dropped your solution. Will I be able to do it by myself using elm?( I'm not done yet reading all topic about it), because I don't think that there is

an equivalent of mobile locksmith in my country :D

@johnH - yes around 5 times, tested batteries with a multimeter, cleaned the contacts, checked the contacts, placed my blade on an working chip - nothing changed,

so I think my key is working.

weird thing is that I don't know what caused the desynchronization. I did not dropped the key or something...

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Maybe the remote ariel inside the cars the issue if thats not picking up the signal it wont work

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I was thinking to that also. but not sure how to test it. and like JW1982 said some cars have a separate sensor some integrated into GEM. When I have some time

I'll look into wire scheme and my care to see if I spot something.

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Im not sure where it is ive heard some say in the head lining others say in the boot some say in the dash the locksmith i use has a device that when cutting the key he places the key in the machine and presses the remote the machine picks up the rf signal and displays the code showing it works if theres anywhere near you that does this they may take a tenner to test the remote but if its working then you have a starting point

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There should usually be two RCL antennas.

One is either in the headlining to the rear of the courtesy light or under the console.

The other if fitted is to stop the boot locking if you inavertently leave your keys in the boot and close it when the doors are locked.

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I got my elm :D. bad news is that I could not find anything with it. It seams that there was only one key programmed on the car. I deleted that code,

tried to reprogram my key nothing, entered again same code, still nothing. now I'll try to reprogram my key on another car to get the code maybe is not

the one I found.

I got an error on HEC instead. u1900-20 not much about it on internet, it seams that needs to have other errors along with it to understand it... I have deleted,

didnt appear back, I'll check in a few days(was present when I went to ford also, they deleted I think and was back). Anyone seeing any connection between this and key fob ?

I'm also thinking to reprogram HEC to the new version(509) does it worth ? no error code regarding GEM and I've been able to enable auto-lock ( not to many features to enable for mk2 :D)

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The HEC error is normal. This error code appears sometimes when a diagnostic interface is connected.

The firmware update of the instrument cluster is only suitable for a MK2.5 instrument cluster. The MK2 instrument cluster can not be updated with ELMconfig.

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I'm not sure if this is because of no being able to synchronize the key ( entering leaning mode ) with the car but I realized the my immobiliser led does not flash when

I switching off the ignition. When I put the key to II it lights the red led between the temp and fuel but closes right after that, and does not flash ( for an error code ) or something. I read

the manual that the system is armed 5 seconds after switching off the ignition and the indicator flash every 2 seconds, mine does not flash at all. It is because because of the sync problem or the problem is connected somehow.

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anyone a clue why it does not flash ? they stopped in the same time and I thought that the led is from remote locking or something, reading more it seams not.

in ELMconfig, HEC level 2/3 what should be checked there for mk2, Standard PATS ?

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The led is the immobiliser. If it stays on solid when key is in it wont start as it is wrong code. If it blinks really fast there was a problem getting the code of the key. If its stopped working sounds like the system is faulty and will stop you doing anything.

PATS i believe is the keyless entry system to the car. When i do anything on mine using ids i say no to pats

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well the car starts with no problem and I never had problems starting the car. that led has gone since the remote locking has stopped working so I know

for sure that was not disabled or something.

I wonder what the ford mechanic did in 3 hours while checking my car and he didn't spot that the immobilizer is faulty. Another weird thing is why there is no error anywhere.

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PATS is Passive Anti-Theft System or more commonly known as the Immobiliser and has nothing to do with the remote central locking.

The transponder chip in the key is for the PATS system, and it is coded to the car, which allows it to start.

The RCL in the fob is the circuit board located in the top half of the key just behind the buttons you press to lock/unlock the car, there can be a number of reasons these can fail, dry joints on the buttons, cracked circuit boards, flat batteries, and a bad contact from the battery can all cause the fob to stop working.

Another yet uncommon problem can be the remote module in the car itself, they can also fail and need replacing, if this happens to be the problem then it MUST be replaced with one from the same make, model, and year.

You will also have to check that the serial number on the remote module is the same as the one you plan to replace, as an incompatible module may not work.

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Another yet uncommon problem can be the remote module in the car itself, they can also fail and need replacing, if this happens to be the problem then it MUST be replaced with one from the same make, model, and year.

You will also have to check that the serial number on the remote module is the same as the one you plan to replace, as an incompatible module may not work.

The Focus MK2 and MK2.5 does not have a seperate remote module. All central locking functions including the remote functions are fully integrated into the GEM module / fuse box. If you need to replace the GEM module / fuse box there is also no need to buy one of exactly the same modelyear and vehicle type. All of the Focus MK2/MK2.5 C-max MK1/MK1.5 and Kuga MK1 GEM modules are (backwards) compatible. You only have to check which version you need because there are several types of GEM module which support different functions. Ford offers just 1 version for replacement of a defective GEM module. This is the latest version which support all of the possible functions.

I retrofitted a 2011 Kuga GEM module which supports all possible functions to my Focus MK2 (2005). This module is required for my future plans to retrofit the Keyless start, Keyless entry an factory alarm function which all are supported by the module. You only have to reprogram the module if it is fitted into another car.

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My car has been in service for the last week and I was just called that they found the problem.

They changed my instrument cluster ( the watches ) with another ones(for testing purpose) and the problem was fixed. I don't see the connection now. No error when diagnose was made.

Do you see any connection ? ( I have no chime sound when exterior lights switched on and door open, no sound also when ignition is off and I press hazard light switch - they are working outside but no sound inside )

Another thing which bothers me is that he said that I have some kind of shaking on the instrument cluster needles and that engine coolant temp and fuel gauge should go to 0 and than to where should be ( can someone confirm this ? ) mine go directly where should be and all this is a sign that I don't have the real km on the instrument cluster - although I have service manual for it. Anyone heard about this ?

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