Jump to content


Photo

Guide: Fitting Ford Projector Puddle Lights Mk2 & Mk2.5 Focus 05-12 Front Doors

Puddle Light Ford logo lights projector puddle lights ford logo illumination fitting puddle lights focus puddle lights

  • Please log in to reply
63 replies to this topic

#1 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 01 August 2013 - 11:44 AM

Hi all,
I've searched the internet to find a guide or some sort of information on fitting these ford logo projector puddle lights to the focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 but I've found nothing,

So I've decided to do something about that and here we are.

Shopping list:

3Amp cable purchased from AutoStar electronics aswell as tape, purchasing as many items as possible from the same seller saves money on postage and Dave is top man at AutoStar, my number 1 supplier through out all of my Guides.
http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

4 x Small Spade connectors Male
4 x Small Spade connectors Female
1 x Roll PVC electrical tape
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a05a8fb8f
1 x Roll Nylon tape
. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27b1823837

1 x set Ford Logo projector puddle lights
Purchased from Tom at Bad Boy Classics these units are the 4th Generation model of the puddle lights as result they contain Cree 5w bulbs which are led and high quality 6000kelvin white aswell as low power consumption, worth every penny,
http://stores.ebay.c...d=p4634.c0.m322

Tools Required:
IMG_20130801_221026_zpsb480e310.jpg

Not sure yet the size of the Allen key will be required to roatate the angle of the logo on the lens of the projector unit.
So I'll remove either image once I receive the projector lights,

Electric Drill,
Dremal or small drill bit for electric drill will do the same job
Stanley blade
Socket wrench
Socket reduicer
Socket extension
8mm Socket
10 km Socket
Cable cutters
Flat head screwdriver
PVC electrical tape
Nylon tape
Hammer
Long nose pliers
3/32 Allen key

There are many bolts to be removed but most require a 10mm socket with extension
I'd recommend taping the 10mm socket on to the extension because it can fall in to the door cavity when removing the bolts.

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...

Sign up to FOC Premium Membership To Remove These Ads

#2 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 02 August 2013 - 02:11 PM

To start I've rolled out the 5m of cable and tapped one end on to a length of plastic pipe to make it easy to fish through holes and grommets
IMG_20130801_221110_zpse53a4d27.jpg

IMG_20130801_222212_zpsf2f8dab4.jpg

IMG_20130801_223143_zps5233ded9.jpg

IMG_20130801_223227_zpsb48dcb5b.jpg

IMG_20130801_224102_zpseaca1aae.jpg

IMG_20130801_224343_zps5b06eebd.jpg

IMG_20130801_224631_zps89745775.jpg

IMG_20130801_224745_zps5f911239.jpg

IMG_20130802_122158_zpsff9d745c.jpg

IMG_20130802_122521_zps6d17f03c.jpg

IMG_20130802_122849_zps668e0b98.jpg

IMG_20130802_123421_zpsef73ee47.jpg

IMG_20130802_123727_zps033337cc.jpg

IMG_20130802_125412_zps5565bd3e.jpg

IMG_20130802_125622_zpsbb94a859.jpg

IMG_20130802_130121_zps63dab643.jpg

IMG_20130802_130510_zps6e117471.jpg

IMG_20130802_130802_zpsd600c6fa.jpg

IMG_20130802_131107_zps1e9ce51f.jpg

IMG_20130802_131346_zpscbfdc88d.jpg

IMG_20130802_131707_zpsb5b0dd3d.jpg

IMG_20130802_131855_zpseb0c3a69.jpg

IMG_20130802_132244_zps73e41e66.jpg

IMG_20130802_132434_zps66be7bfc.jpg

IMG_20130802_132629_zps8abba224.jpg

IMG_20130802_132758_zpsa1647ae5.jpg

IMG_20130802_132934_zps79ea6422.jpg

IMG_20130802_133441_zps2eeb7dd4.jpg

IMG_20130802_133513_zpscdf6e734.jpg

IMG_20130802_133839_zpsdb85b1e1.jpg

Image3407_zps350d5962.jpg

IMG_20130802_134213_zpsa17c38e5.jpg

IMG_20130802_134441_zps431031b5.jpg

IMG_20130802_134656_zps84ca64ad.jpg

IMG_20130802_134842_zpse2848d00.jpg

IMG_20130802_135039_zps1543fa4b.jpg

IMG_20130802_135405_zps3e8111be.jpg

IMG_20130802_140027_zps21e3a6a8.jpg

IMG_20130802_140523_zpsfd078832.jpg

IMG_20130802_140815_zpsadc06c6f.jpg

IMG_20130802_142515_zpsf27ca0b3.jpg

Remove all surrounding bolts except for one top centre, keep this bolt in place until you are ready to catch/support the panel in your hands.

IMG_20130802_142725_zps15d2eec1.jpg

#3 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 02 August 2013 - 04:54 PM

Gently tap the centre of the three plugs using the screwdriver and hammer,
Now I don't mean ''hammer them home'' God no
Just a ''1, 2, 3, Tap''
They will fall inside the door where they can be easily retrieved and stored later.

IMG_20130802_151222_zps37beb751.jpg

IMG_20130802_151511_zpsa95cd466.jpg

IMG_20130802_151918_zpsa510abcf.jpg

IMG_20130802_152148_zps9f53a471.jpg

IMG_20130802_152503_zpse7018e2b.jpg

IMG_20130802_153111_zps6b6933e3.jpg

IMG_20130802_153447_zpsee2c2dc8.jpg

IMG_20130802_153804_zps8a019430.jpg

IMG_20130802_154104_zps540eebfa.jpg

IMG_20130802_154458_zpsa238c2c0.jpg

IMG_20130802_155010_zpsc762dc91.jpg

IMG_20130802_155208_zps269b9f51.jpg

Once the grommet has been freed and all bolts removed,
You should be able to part the panels enough to reach in and unplug the loom from the central locking module and lock. As pictured below

IMG_20130802_160328_zps3f2e4611.jpg

IMG_20130802_160756_zps620f0fe8.jpg

On the upper left side of the door close to the mirror, you will see this grommet securing the cables,
Unplug this grommet to release the excess cable allowing easier movement of the panel

IMG_20130802_155552_zpsd268c133.jpg

When the central locking plug is disconnected and the grommet holding the excess loom has been unplugged,
gently remove the panel from the door ensuring the electric window brackets on the inside of the panel don't catch on removal as they can be easily bent.

The loom will remain part of the panel,
So rest the panel in the foot well of the car but take care: the edge on the panel is very sharp and can scratch so take care when resting it in the foot well while working inside the door

IMG_20130802_161150_zpsa830b706.jpg

Now the panels removed you can retrieve those plugs that were tapped through earlier
Store them safe for returning later.

IMG_20130802_161636_zpsdbeec119.jpg

Finally here we see the part we have been long awaiting to find,
The entrance/exit of cables to the grommet.

IMG_20130802_161906_zps2389dc89.jpg

Gently push the grommet to the outside of the panel

IMG_20130802_163359_zpsd1e8df47.jpg

IMG_20130802_164139_zpsb55d5185.jpg

At this point in the creation of the guide "Thunder Struck" and the rain began
so I grabbed a bin liner and some tape to shelter until the rain passed,

IMG_20130802_164419_zps9c8634ff.jpg

IMG_20130802_164730_zps483288e3.jpg

How's that for blacked out windows ;)

Now that we have removed the grommet that is inside the door; to the outside

We can now temperaly return the panel to the door and secure it with one or two bolts to support it,
While we begin to remove interior panels.

Image3431_zpsa29691b6.jpg

Now on to the interior panels

IMG_20130802_165052_zps74ba119b.jpg

IMG_20130802_165213_zpsd5e228b9.jpg

IMG_20130802_165601_zps62d61fa9.jpg

IMG_20130802_165842_zpsd2f5bef9.jpg

Using the T25 Torx, remove the screw from the panel
When removed, gently pull the panel on a horizontal level straight towards the rear of the car.

IMG_20130802_170129_zpsab506873.jpg

IMG_20130802_170455_zpsfb68db99.jpg

#4 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 02 August 2013 - 08:18 PM

IMG_20130802_175758_zps7a0cf552.jpg

Image3462_zps22ba870f.jpg

IMG_20130802_185033_zpse42dd3ee.jpg

IMG_20130802_190205_zpse7739a5f.jpg

IMG_20130802_190914_zps0cd6c3e4.jpg

IMG_20130802_191607_zps2cad0648.jpg

IMG_20130802_191940_zpsc33bb29a.jpg

IMG_20130802_192256_zps4059ed16.jpg

IMG_20130802_192703_zps43b1905a.jpg

IMG_20130802_193828_zps7fee88a9.jpg

IMG_20130802_194252_zps60bc8835.jpg

IMG_20130802_194612_zps3d62ae36.jpg

IMG_20130802_194836_zpsd9a96ea9.jpg

IMG_20130802_195117_zpse3b2b4d6.jpg

Due to sharp edges on the panels, I recommend wrapping the cable in nylon tape to help protect the cable from being cut when rubbing off the panels not only on installation but every time the car moves.

Take a section around 3 feet long and wrap along this is enough to get you inside the door and foot well,
Don't wrap rite to the tip because it doesn't peel off again, and you need around 3" at the end for crimping sockets and splicing in to the footwell loom,

IMG_20130802_195412_zpsf5cd7a44.jpg

IMG_20130802_195901_zps35c9d0cd.jpg

Wrap by rotating the tape at a 45 degree angle rotating around while moving forward along the cable,
When finished cut the tape with a Stanley blade,
This tape won't snap when pulled its not like PVC tape.

IMG_20130802_195955_zpsf54a8b9b.jpg

IMG_20130802_200230_zps4cd04700.jpg

Enough length for attaching crimp terminals later when fully installed,

IMG_20130802_200535_zps5eac521e.jpg

IMG_20130802_200838_zpsb54733bc.jpg

Carfull when drilling the grommet,
Set the drill to lowest speed possible and set it on a piece of wood
So if the drill goes through the grommet, it goes in to the wood and stops.
Rather than looking like Quentin Tarantino in "Dusk till Dawn" lol

IMG_20130802_201123_zps15ea8b62.jpg

IMG_20130803_194027_zps1db159b3.jpg

IMG_20130802_201535_zpsfe5dafc6.jpg

Image3486_zpsa161fb4f.jpg

IMG_20130802_202602_zps909a8195.jpg

Much like pulling an ear lug,
Grab hold of the grommet hose and pull it outwards,
Ensure the cables are clear from the rear left hand side and slowly drill a hole,
Small hole is good, the rubber needs to be tight on the cable to prevent water engress.

IMG_20130802_203041_zps3961721f.jpg

IMG_20130802_203153_zps94dc82c2.jpg

Image3491_zps460a26ee.jpg

Image3492_zpsc247e2b2.jpg

Prior to fishing the cable through the rubber hose,
Ensure the cable is feeding between the top and bottom door hinge,
Because you don't want to have to remove it at a later time to correct it.

Image3495_zps485490ff.jpg

IMG_20130802_203638_zps4335c3bd.jpg

#5 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 03 August 2013 - 01:10 AM

Image3496_zps2e19cae1.jpg

IMG_20130802_214807_zps8d469281.jpg

IMG_20130802_215055_zps6409ff13.jpg

IMG_20130802_215329_zps9cff47e2.jpg

IMG_20130802_215624_zps92e40022.jpg

IMG_20130802_215806_zps668a5890.jpg

IMG_20130802_220031_zps24cda7e0.jpg

IMG_20130802_220304_zps8e84b734.jpg

IMG_20130802_220722_zpsf44c673f.jpg

IMG_20130802_220804_zps88993835.jpg

IMG_20130802_221154_zpse948775c.jpg

IMG_20130802_221620_zps257867a0.jpg

IMG_20130802_222404_zps86bb3bc4.jpg

IMG_20130802_222700_zpsd5a73db3.jpg

IMG_20130802_222920_zpsb7984a09.jpg

IMG_20130802_223612_zps4444af1f.jpg

IMG_20130802_223851_zps4e1cd69e.jpg

IMG_20130802_224140_zps9ab324e4.jpg

IMG_20130802_224523_zps786005c7.jpg

IMG_20130802_224720_zps5f8ba171.jpg

IMG_20130802_224924_zpsa7c41e4b.jpg

IMG_20130802_225134_zps64925b89.jpg

IMG_20130802_225535_zps14e433af.jpg

IMG_20130802_225826_zps5c5a1c18.jpg

IMG_20130802_230131_zps502dc3af.jpg

IMG_20130802_230348_zps7db4e7ed.jpg

IMG_20130802_230656_zps601a34c2.jpg

IMG_20130802_230948_zpsd76aee43.jpg

IMG_20130802_231146_zps79b6b132.jpg

IMG_20130802_231403_zps687b4d6c.jpg

IMG_20130802_231624_zpsb97acef3.jpg

IMG_20130802_231833_zps044ce47c.jpg

IMG_20130802_232202_zps5d6e4e9e.jpg

IMG_20130802_232444_zpsbf276703.jpg

IMG_20130802_232947_zps6b8bc531.jpg

IMG_20130802_233203_zps5612441a.jpg

IMG_20130802_233609_zps24a04884.jpg

Had to call Vicki to lend a hand with refitting the OBD port socket,
I spread the clips while Vicki directed it in to place ;)

IMG_20130802_233834_zps55996262.jpg

IMG_20130802_234100_zps7ec8f01f.jpg

IMG_20130802_234445_zps17580bcd.jpg

IMG_20130802_234728_zps3a5e29a5.jpg

IMG_20130802_170129_zpsab506873.jpg

Image3548_zpsbac85a32.jpg

Gently pull the lug from outside the door panel until the lip forms a tight seal around the door frame again.

Image3549_zps14b168b0.jpg

Ensure there is enough excess cable in the area to allow the door fully open without strain,
Aswell as ensuring there's not too much excess that the cable is likely to scuff the body.

A clear view can be obtained from outside the door looking inwards,

Image3550_zps35edb3c9.jpg

IMG_20130803_000105_zps95a03fb1.jpg

IMG_20130803_000338_zps44e78cda.jpg

IMG_20130803_000604_zps6afc3339.jpg

Temperally connect the window switch to the door and turn on the ignition to allow power to the windows,
Look through the pad holes and ensure the bolts are lined up for tightening on to the window by one 24 hour rotation of the socket,
Then close window,
Remove key from ignition
Disconnect panel on door

IMG_20130803_000857_zps325aabff.jpg

IMG_20130803_001202_zps73ff8049.jpg

Image3561_zps85d307ba.jpg

Use some nylon tape to help reseal the pads on the window holes

IMG_20130803_001436_zps81ef1e2b.jpg

IMG_20130803_001636_zpscf930e43.jpg

IMG_20130803_001917_zpsdbe657e7.jpg

Refit rubber seal strip to inside door sill

IMG_20130803_002224_zps4cd0a902.jpg

IMG_20130803_002249_zps619901d5.jpg

Cable routing on drivers door complete,
Now to repeat process on passenger side is much the same but differs with the involvement of:
Removing the Glove box and side dash panel,

IMG_20130804_100256_zpsa3c8556f.jpg

Looks mad with door cards removed inside lol

IMG_20130803_002544_zpsce7b7123.jpg

End result cable run in to passenger side ready for crimp terminals

IMG_20130803_002713_zpsa4c2304e.jpg

IMG_20130803_002831_zpsd0b49aee.jpg

My location of choice for splicing the cables in to the interior loom is;
the foot well loom in the drivers side next to the centre console,
So here is how to remove the side centre console panel in the drivers foot well.

IMG_20130803_003116_zps15281013.jpg

IMG_20130803_003307_zpsc4e09f1f.jpg

IMG_20130803_003603_zps1e1949c4.jpg

I haven't spliced them in yet because we need to fit the female crimp terminals prior to making the cables live

Next is Crimping and stripping,

IMG_20130803_003810_zps0c9ce2da.jpg

It is very important when fitting insulated crimp terminals that you always fit the female connectors to the cables that are supplying the power to the device, in this case puddle lights.

The reason for this is,
In the event of a live cable being unplugged for any reason,
There is no risk of electrical exposure due to an exposed spade

I have chosen to fit spade connectors to the loom because they are a very easy to use way of connecting devices and provide great comfort in the event of a puddle light requiring replacement in the future it is very simple to unplug and replace without the need to snip cables or tape up connections,

Start by stripping the cables using the stripping and crimping pliers

IMG_20130803_004251_zps6e809fc3.jpg

I've stripped a bit too long,
So I've set the female spade connector next to the stripped core,
In order to get the correct length and trim to size,
Prior to inserting the exposed cable in to the terminal and crimping tight.

IMG_20130803_004434_zpsc32a362d.jpg

IMG_20130803_004543_zps732d8ed3.jpg

IMG_20130803_004709_zpsb3a41838.jpg

Drivers side complete,

IMG_20130803_004808_zps445fa9bc.jpg
Passengers side now done too

#6 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 03 August 2013 - 01:11 AM

Time to unpack the puddle lights,

IMG_20130806_100218_zps091388a1.jpg

Enclosed with the two puddle light units is a 19mm holesaw,
its a good size to have in the toolbox aswell because 12v rocker switches also fit in to 19mm holes.

The puddle light units themselves are smaller than a match stick in height,
The casing is made of aluminium and powder coated black theres no plastic involved except for the lens which I suspect is perspex,

IMG_20130806_100352_zps4576f6eb.jpg

IMG_20130806_100237_zpsb510ec0d.jpg

The factory fitted loom on the puddle lights is at most 1 Meter long it wouldn't be possible to fit these units to the focus without running the additional cable in to the doors with spade connectors,

IMG_20130806_100254_zps723e0516.jpg

IMG_20130806_141205_zpscf011ee3.jpg

I then measured a comfortable length of loom on the puddle light and cut it at a length to fit SME male spade connectors,

IMG_20130806_141524_zpsab59592b.jpg

Next I stripped the cable to fit the male crimp connectors,

IMG_20130806_141714_zps3deff127.jpg

As suspected the loom cores are very thin and brittle when stripped, as result I recommend fattening them up to strengthen them and ensure they crimp correctly,

How to do this?

Using an off cut section of the 3Amp cable,
Strip a core and twine it to the stripped core of the puddle light factory loom as saw below

IMG_20130806_141934_zpsc4291dfc.jpg

Then cut the excess 3Amp cable from the loom resulting in a heavier more stable tipped core on the puddle light loom for crimping.

IMG_20130806_142140_zps359aa6e8.jpg

IMG_20130806_142342_zps9aca0dc7.jpg

IMG_20130806_142342_zps9aca0dc7.jpg

Crimp the terminals and tape around the cable & crimp to prevent stretching of the cable aswell as water ingress, remember to mark the positive cable when wrapping in tape because both look the same when wrapped.

IMG_20130806_142617_zpsdea6b9dc.jpg

End result:

IMG_20130806_144257_zps31d3e00b.jpg

The next step is to drill the door panel and fit the puddle light unit,
My location of choice is close to the inside of the door,
I used the location of the panel clips as a marking to ensure I get the same location on both panels.

IMG_20130806_144741_zps3c1c4f2f.jpg

IMG_20130806_144446_zpsde892deb.jpg

For best spread of light ensure you drill the hole low down on the panel as saw below,
This ensures the light beam won't get caught by the door once fitted.

IMG_20130806_150123_zps510a4e0b.jpg

IMG_20130806_154147_zps0ffedfee.jpg

IMG_20130806_150815_zps4fa95b98.jpg

When drilled through,
Gently insert the puddle light loom followed by the unit,
It takes some time to the the puddle light fully flush fitting because the base of the puddle light is threaded,
As result you need to turn it on entry,
To thread its way through the door panel, this is difficult but 100% worth it in the end because you get a good tight fit which helps maintain the alignment of the logo on the ground when set.

PLEASE NOTE:

When !Removed! in the puddle light unit, the cable in the unit will become twisted,

IMG_20130806_151843_zps9686b9cd.jpg

Keep a close eye on this cable and untangle the twist every time it happens,
To prevent the cables from snapping or stretching.

IMG_20130806_152309_zps48b7da07.jpg

IMG_20130806_152541_zpsb2a79fe4.jpg

When the puddle light unit is fully seated,
Unpack the threaded washer and Allen head screw,

IMG_20130806_151423_zps65e34e70.jpg

Insert the puddle light loom in to the threaded washer and screw the washer down on to the inside of the puddle light housing.

IMG_20130806_151933_zpsc5f8d58c.jpg

When screwed down,
Don't fully tighten yet,
The purpose of this washer with bolt is to allow you align the beam then thread this washer tight and bolt tight to hold the puddle light beam in that set location.

IMG_20130806_152737_zps63491a60.jpg

I then taped the puddle light loom over to the housing of the neighboring door clip,
Ensuring the cable was not stretched, then tapped it down tight as saw in image below,

IMG_20130806_145007_zpsb3f14130.jpg

Doing this,
Helps to protect the puddle light from damage in the event of the door panel being pulled off by ford for any reason,
It is the taped section of the loom that will be pulled and not the light unit.

The door panel is now ready to be brought back to the car,
But before we connect it all back together, We need to splice the door cables in to the footwell loom,
In order to make the puddle lights active when plugged in,
So as the logo beam can be correctly aligned prior to refitting the door.

At this point of the guide; my focus will differ from others because my focus didnt have factory fitted foot well lighting, if your focus doesn't have factory foot well lighting either,
then see my fitting guide listed below this post.

But if your focus has got factory fitted foot well lighting,
Then unclip the light socket,

Splice red positive from the doors loom
To
orange positive on the footwell lighting loom

Then black negative from the doors loom
To
Black negative on the foot well lighting loom

Tape up all connections using PVC tape
And keep all connections separate, only splice one at a time to prevent shorting and blowing fuse.

Now back to fitting the door,
At this point it would be ideal to have the assistance of a second person to hold the door panel,
While you get on the ground and correctly align the beam of the puddle light,

Firstly connect the positive and negative spade connections and tape over each spade connection separately to prevent water ingress.

IMG_20130806_153105_zpsb749bfb6.jpg

Remove the two bolts from the door that were previously hand threaded in there for storage and to prevent loss.

IMG_20130806_155041_zps36ae72ec.jpg

Correctly align the beam

IMG_20130806_153400_zpsf17379f7.jpg

Followed by !Removed! down the threaded washer tight and securing with the bolt.

IMG_20130806_152737_zps63491a60.jpg

Once secure and correctly aligned,
Hold the outside of the door with one hand,
And slap the panel back in the the other hand ensuring a flush fit around the door,
This can be saw from the side of the door.

IMG_20130806_153947_zps8d4db26b.jpg

Next re-insert the two bolts to the under side of the panel and plug in the electrics

IMG_20130802_125622_zpsbb94a859.jpg

IMG_20130802_122521_zps6d17f03c.jpg

Align outer door pane and gently slap in to place

IMG_20130806_153647_zps94e60e5a.jpg

Refit inner door handle cup and push in to place,

IMG_20130802_131346_zpscbfdc88d.jpg

Finally ensure the tweeter panel is correctly positioned within the main door card panel prior to closing the door and repeating the installation on the passenger side.

IMG_20130806_154556_zpsf9b5925a.jpg

IMG_20130804_093546_zpsdb39e8d0.jpg

Image3652_zpsc928d7f5.jpg

Job Done,

Thanks for viewing my Guide and I hope it has helped to achieve satisfactory results.
I have created many Guides all available here on fordownersclub.com all created in my spare time,
in recent times my image host for the guides has began to charge for hosting the images that display within my guides.
So im now paying a monthly subscription in order for these guides to function,
If you would like to help keep the guides full of images,
Donations under £1.00 welcome via PayPal
Address: leonard.woods@live.ie
Thank you.

Is Your Focus Rusting Click Here For More Information ---------- Guide To Activating Single & Multi Door Unlock on yor Ford Click Here
Guide To Spraying Rear View Mirror Click Here ---------- Guide To Changing Lower Front Grill On Mk2.5 Focus Click Here
The Ultamate Reverse Bulb Click Here ----------- Guide to Fitting Custom Built Climate Controls on Focus Click Here
Guide to Converting Rear Fog Light To Clear Click Here -------- Custom Lazer Cut Interior Parts For Your Ford Click Here
Ford Serial Number Without Removing Stereo Click Here --------- Guide to Fitting New Ford Mist Type Jets on all Models Click Here
Guide to Fitting additional Boot Light Click Here -------- The Ultimate Rear Seat Protection Click Here
Guide To Storing Vehicle For Long Periods Click Here -------- Guide To Fitting ST Gauge Pod To Focus Dash Click Here
Guide To Fitting Focus Led Badge Light Click Here -------- Guide To Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2.5 Click Here
Guide to Fitting Auto Dimmer Unit to Gauges or DRL's Click Here --- Guide to Fitting additional 12v Socket in Boot of Focus Click Here
Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here ---------- Guide to Fitting Footwell Lighting In Your Ford Click Here
Guide to Induction Filter Upgrade in Your Ford Click Here ----- Guide to Fitting Custom Bonnet Dampers Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here
Guide to Wiper Blade Change Focus Mk2 Mk2.5 Click Here ----- Guide to Fitting EGR Blanking Plate 1,6TDCi Click Here
Guide to fitting Ford puddle lights Focus 05-12 Click Here
.
dac79eb9-9a0d-40c2-b131-78ca357b1a3d_zps

#7 yunii

yunii

    yunii

  • True Ford Enthusiast
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 618 posts
  • Name: yunii (nickname)
  • Ford Model: FOCUS TITANIUM-S
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Yorkshire
Contributor

Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:11 PM

thats simply an awesome how to guide , a purely proffessional write out, do you want a job at Haynes manuals? <_<
simply brilliant, but i wont be doing this unless i put them in place of my mirror puddle lights.
yunii

#8 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 03 August 2013 - 06:09 PM

thats simply an awesome how to guide , a purely proffessional write out, do you want a job at Haynes manuals? <_<
simply brilliant, but i wont be doing this unless i put them in place of my mirror puddle lights.
yunii

I could do version 2 of Haynes ford focus modification lol shame they only created that book for the Mk1 and Mk1.5 model focus,

You could easily run a feed down from your wing mirror puddle lights without removing the window etc.
I'll have a look at your new mod now,

#9 Focus-Jonny

Focus-Jonny

    Heresss Jonny!!!!!

  • Budding Enthusiast
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 338 posts
  • Name: Jonathan
  • Ford Model: Ford Focus Mk2.5 Zetec S 1.6 Ti-vct
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Antrim

Posted 04 August 2013 - 12:31 AM

Lenny great guide!! Always an interesting read cant wait until later this week! Would love to have the confidence to pull off a complex mod like that well done mate!

#10 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 04 August 2013 - 08:06 AM

Lenny great guide!! Always an interesting read cant wait until later this week! Would love to have the confidence to pull off a complex mod like that well done mate!

Thanks Jonathan,
Its really not as hard as it looks mate,
Take your time there's n rush with it and can be walked away from, at any stage of the process for a break.
I wouldn't take on the job of changing engine oil or pollen filter but I'd do this again no problem,
Its just removing lots of bolts in a set formation, looks daunting but its really not.

#11 georgen

georgen

    Too much time on the boards

  • FOC Supporters
  • 965 posts
  • Name: george
  • Ford Model: focus est 1.6 tdci lx
  • Year: 2005
  • Location: Tyne and Wear

Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:17 PM

Spot on write up Lenny. B)



#12 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 04 August 2013 - 05:30 PM

Spot on write up Lenny. B)


Thanks mate took a lot of time to create this one.

#13 jeebowhite

jeebowhite

    Resident Loon

  • Super Mod
  • 17,727 posts
  • Name: James
  • Ford Model: Sea Grey Mondeo MKIV 1.8TDCi 140ps Zetec
  • Year: 2007
  • Location: Kent
Contributor

Posted 06 August 2013 - 11:59 AM

How much time have you invested into this so far?



#14 Hassen

Hassen

    Too much time on the boards

  • FOC Supporters
  • 721 posts
  • Name: Hassen
  • Ford Model: Ford Focus Mk 2.5 1.6TDCI 2010
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Offaly

Posted 06 August 2013 - 01:27 PM

Great read as usual. Top job so far. Will be watching this space on the progress.



#15 Lenny

Lenny

    Retired Moderator

  • FOC Supporters
  • 10,097 posts
  • Name: Leonard
  • Ford Model: Focus ZetecS
  • Year: 2010
  • Location: Ireland
Contributor

Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:21 PM

How much time have you invested into this so far?

Less than 30 pounds mate,
As i had a roll of tape and nylon tape already to hand, i just needed the cable, puddle lights and spade connectors, 100% worth it,
The guide has taken almost two days and still requires more editing but fitting time would be possible over a weekend.

  

Great read as usual. Top job so far. Will be watching this space on the progress.

The puddle light units arrived this morning very well packaged,
I've completed the rest of the guide and I'm proud to say they are now fitted to the doors and he car is all back together 100% very happy,
I've spent from 12:00 - 16:00 uploading the rest of the guide to photo bucket,
Now unfortunitly I must go away until Friday,
So I will complete this guide then along with some night pictures,

Here's a preview:

.Image3652_zpsc928d7f5.jpg
I highly recommend these lights.

IMG_20130806_143900_zps1ea9e307.jpg

Smaller than a match stick

IMG_20130806_100352_zps4576f6eb.jpg

IMG_20130806_100237_zpsb510ec0d.jpg

IMG_20130806_145250_zps76e233dd.jpg

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...


Not what you're looking for?

Register now, we have a huge community of enthusiasts to answer any questions you might have




Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Puddle Light, Ford logo lights, projector puddle lights, ford logo illumination, fitting puddle lights, focus puddle lights

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users