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Fiesta Reversing Camera And Screen

reversing camera backup camera

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#16 Sweeney367

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 11:13 PM

I am so doing this! If for the 'Gucci' gadget factor if nothing else at that price lol

TomRoscoe can you get a pic of the back of the car like from a distance? I'm curious asto how well it blends into the car please (:

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#17 cuke

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 08:43 AM

Hi, can a camera be integrated into the Sony DAB as fitted to our Titanium X so it uses the centre screen?



#18 tomroscoe

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 08:53 AM

@cuke, I wish I knew. ls such a camera not available on the Fiesta options list?
@Andy, picture coming up, but if you imagine a bumper-fitted reversing sensor then my camera looks just like that. Only it's fitted on the black bit of the bumper and lower than beeper sensors, so it's even more invisible.

tom.

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#19 BrownMotoring

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 09:23 AM

Hi, can a camera be integrated into the Sony DAB as fitted to our Titanium X so it uses the centre screen?

 

I had to get a wing mirror repaired at my local dealer and asked this while I was hanging about. It's a bargainous £250 option when ordering new (I didn't have that luxury) and the dealer claimed initially it would be mind boggling expensive, I mean really expensive. They quoted £299 for rear parking sensors alone. She then went off a got details and said it wasn't possible to retrofit it.

 

I was a little skeptical and tried a few local aftermarket parking sensor fitters (thinking that was the next best option until tomroscoe came to the rescue). One of those aftermarket fitters specialises in integrating with existing systems (screens, stereo etc) where possible but they said they could't locate a suitable adaptor, not yet anyway.

 

So the long and short of it is that it appears to be somewhere between expensive/impossible for the main dealers and impossible at the moment for aftermarket fitters, and even they they charge £100-200 for sensor and fitting alone, let alone anything more interesting.

 

Tom's got the best solution and clearest instructions. I've ordered the components he's found and will have a go. If I hit problems I'll just find an autoelectrician to help finish off the tricky bits but suspect it'll be okay.

 

If your spec'ing new motor then get the camera and/or sensors fitted when you order it to avoid disappointment.

 

Having said that, £25 and a couple of hours elbow grease sounds better to me either way.



#20 BrownMotoring

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 09:31 AM

Hi, can a camera be integrated into the Sony DAB as fitted to our Titanium X so it uses the centre screen?

 

Yes, but only as a factor fit option it seems. I've asked my local dealer and after market fitters and nobody can help for various reasons. Having said that there isns't a lot of detail as to why other than one suggesting they couldn't get hold of a suitable adaptor. The factor fit option on the current Fiesta displays through the existing screen in your dash. The previous Fiesta could be spec'd with a reverse camera that used a screen integrated into the rear view mirror.

 

See my other post about lack of deal/aftermarket retrofitting options :(



#21 Livesms

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 03:36 PM

May be you can help me?



#22 cuke

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 04:36 PM

Hi, thanks for all your answers. It is something that can be spec'd from new with the Sony Sat Nav but I was just wondering if anyone has seen the back of the Sony DAB to see if there are any video inputs, as, if there were then this would be possible. It's not a big deal really as I don't drive the car often enough, it's my partners car, and really for the size of car it is I don't have a problem reversing or parallel parking it. However it might be of a benefit to my partner :huh:



#23 tomroscoe

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 08:37 AM

I thought more pictures might be of interest.

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#24 BrownMotoring

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 06:34 PM

Dead easy to fit to a current Fiesta.  You have this model?  

 

I looked at various camera positions but didn't much want to drill steel, so I chose the black bit of the bumper where it's concave.

 

I drilled the plastic bumper and opened up the hole with a file.  No need for accuracy as the camera's flange covers any slight mistakes.  Behind that black bit of the bumper is a reinforcement and I've used this with a tiny bracket to make the camera 'look upwards' slightly as it's rather a low-down fixing point.  If you really make a hash of things then a rubber grommet will let you cover the hole.

 

The camera comes with two wires, one is a power feed and the other is the signal feed.  Take off the off-side real lamp cluster (removing the boot carpet in the vicinity is the difficult bit) and wire the camera to the reversing light power lead.  Run the signal cable into the car via this rear light cluster and from there to the boot, past the rear seat and up to the centre console under the driver's seat.

 

The monitor's power is taken from the fuse box which sits behind the glove box (I chose to use the reversing light's fuse), and it's a simple matter to hide the wire between the top and bottom half of the centre console as it goes to feed the little 4.3'' monitor.  You can just see this wire leading to the monitor in my picture, but you could do an even neater job by drilling a hole for the cable in that pretty useless cubby hole that the monitor now blanks off.

 

The monitor is a bit low in actual practice - it would be grand in the info screen's position and you can get 'fold-down' screens if you fancy going that route.  Selecting reverse powers the camera and the signal sent to the monitor turns that on - so everything is automatic and dandy.  The camera works in very low light though of course your reversing lights help a lot.

 

And that's about it.  You'll still use your door mirrors, but the camera will let you get to with a few inches of the car parked behind you, far far closer than bravery allows.  What would have been good is if the camera's image went out of focus when objects were 12'' away, say,  But the image is sharp from 1'' to infinity amazingly, so they've missed a trick there.

 

Need more info?  Just holler. 

 

Hi,

 

TomRoscoe, I've got the camera and screen and ready to have a go soon. I was wondering though if you could tell me the route you took the cables from the back of the camera into the car? Just been having a shufty about in the boot and can't figure it out. Any guidance appreciated.

 

Regards,

Phil.



#25 tomroscoe

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 07:19 AM

Hi Phil. Lie under the car looking up at the underside of the rear bumper. You'll run the camera's signal cable and its power cable towards your left if you've removed the off-side rear light cluster and the signal cable will connect to the 6 metre wire they supply. Both this wire and the power taken from the reversing light bulb will go up behind the rear wheel arch and into one of the holes that's exposed when you take off the rear lamp cluster. From there the signal cable will enter the boot behind the boot's side carpet trim panel, and from there past the rear seat hinge, alongside the lower door trim valance and on towards the centre console.

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#26 tomroscoe

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 01:16 PM

Just wondered how you guys were getting on fitting the reversing camera kit. Any news, any thoughts?

#27 BrownMotoring

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:50 PM

Hi Tom,

 

My ears were burning and now I know why. As it happens, yes. I finished it this very afternoon and it's great. I'll post more info this weekend as I did it slightly differently. I'll do a step by step too for those who want to know, and a pic or two hopefully. Anyway, it's ruddy awesome, really entertaining and very effective. Brilliant! More info/details/news to follow.

 

Phil



#28 BrownMotoring

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 01:53 PM

Hi TomR,

 

I decided to scribble down some notes and took some pics and stuck it all in a guide on how I did mine:  (http://www.fordowner...era-and-screen/). It's much the same as yours with the main variation being how I cabled in the power to the screen and camera. I soldered directly into the same reverse bulb cable, just further down the loom. Works a treat. Anyway, got to say a big thinks for your help and loving reversing everywhere now, lol. Catch you later, lets see if anyone else fits a camera. :)

 

Regards,

Phil.



#29 tomroscoe

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 04:01 PM

Phil, you've done a magnificent job. Your pdf file is a little work of art and your workmanship puts mine to shame. I just wondered if your day job involves such work - you don't work on new car instruction books or something like that do you?
One question - could you clarify how you lift the gear lever gaiter? l don't want to break off any clips or scratch it, but l can't see how it pops off.
Next, my dash cam is better than yours, so there. Well, maybe. It's the SJ1000 and l have a pdf file of my mag write-up. Under £56 delivered.

#30 BrownMotoring

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 05:19 PM

I work in IT management but I guess years of meddling about in computers has helped a bit. I’m no electrician and had to really work hard at that bit. Sweated buckets fretting over which wire was which and in the end it was pretty obvious. Just not confident in it. Biggest problem I had with installing this lot was the ruddy rage. I’m okay for a bit but then I just get impatient and start reaching for the hammers. Soldering wasn't too bad either. Bit rusty but subscribed to a less is more approach to soldering, worked out okay though.

 

The instructions go hand in hand with writing computing related instructions now and then I guess. Boring as hell but still managed to get some knitted chickens in at the end. If it helps other folks then job done, it’s definitely worth doing.

 

Your camera is indeed better, lol. I was hit from behind April 1st last year in Bath by a drunk estate agent (the scenario from hell). It was a slightly messy insurance claim and I went for the camera after to cover me if needed in the future. The stuff you record is beyond words sometimes though but it was a good buy and gives a lot of peace of mind.

 

That gear gaiter is a weird component, pretty over engineered thing comprising of three or so interconnected parts clipped together. It’s fairly chunky so not too easy to break. I worked on the assumption that trying to loosen the bezel would be more difficult and end in me scratching the shiny black dash facia around it. So, I found if you give it a gentle but firm inward squeeze/pull around the side and back edges of the leather area inside, and it should loosen and ease out. You should be able to feel through the leather and have a fumble round inner edges of the frame beneath. It wasn’t clipped in heavily on mine and there wasn’t any noticeable clicks or those nasty cracks from clips releasing or breaking. It was more a case of working inward to distort the shape which seemed to release the clips holding it in place. Don’t overdo or you’ll risk separating the leather from its bezel but working from inside to loosen worked. I think a lot of these Ford parts and panels just need a good firm hand. Nothing over the top but it takes a bit of nerve I've found.

 

Hope that helps.

Phil.



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