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Notchy Gears


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#1 john j

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 08:59 AM

I have a Fusion 1.4 TDCI 03 reg which has done 174k. Gear selection is generally more difficult with all the gears. Particularly first , reverse and changing down from 5th from high speed when engine is hot. I recently had to have a brake pipe replaced at the n/s front brake. I wonder if air managed to get into the clutch hydraulic system as they both have a common reservoir filling cap. Has anyone out there had simular problems ?

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#2 Gombal

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 06:02 PM

Was it changing gears difficult before the brake pipe change or did it start after it?

 

If before it was changing gears easily and after not it's indeed possible there's air in the system, simply bleed it and you should be fine.

 

If that doesn't fix it (and it was already there before the brake pipe change) there's also a way to adjust the gear select cable.

Select third gear.

Remove the gearshift cables cover.

Release the selector cable adjuster locking insert

Depending on whether you're car is from before 08/2003 or 08/2003 onwards push or pull the orange knob on the selecter cable.

Lock the selector cable adjuster.
Press down the clip on the adjuster.

Install the gearshift cables cover.



#3 john j

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 09:20 AM

Notchy gears

#4 john j

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 10:05 AM

Hi Gombal, got potentially big problems to the tune of £900 if garage are to be believed. They reckon I need a new clutch although I had clutch and slave cylinder renewed 35k ago. I tried bleeding the clutch to cure the notchy gears but then couldn't get any pressure on the peddle and couldn't change gear at all. Called AA , chap came and pumped the peddle like crazy for a while and the gear change was fine (better they they had been for a while, not notchy at all. He went away and I then drove a couple of miles up the road and then I couldn't.change gear again. Called a second AA bloke out and he had a look and .bled clutch again and this seemed to cure the problem again. But just to be safe he towed me to a garage. The garage said they could see fluid all round bottom of engine and bellhousing implying that something was leaking inside bellhousing such as the slave cylinder and contaminating the clutch plates. But when AA man bled the clutch he disconnected the hydraulic hose at the bellhousing next to the bleed nipple and got me to pump the peddle and he reckoned the fluid was airated at that point which suggested that the problem was the clutch master cylinder under the dash which is attached to the peddle but the garage say if it was that there would be fluid leaking there..but I did think sometimes things can let air in but not let fluid out. As for the mess under the engine, I think that could be oil as engine has a leak somewhere and clutch fluid as the AA man didn't use a vessel to catch the fluid. As the gearchange is ok at the moment I going to drive the car to my local jet wash and clean her up underneath and see if anything leaks out the bellhousing. Just hope that the problem stays away long enough for me to do that

#5 Gombal

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 05:42 PM

Wow, what a story. That air can come in but no fluid out i can confirm that. Not with the Ford but with my Mercedes, Couldn't get the rear brakes bled with just pumping the brake pedal. Not even in the garage with a vacuumtool.

Then i build my own pressure bleed tool and then it worked in 5 seconds.

I recently renewed my brakefluid and also the clutch fluid. With a pressure tool it's 2 minutes work and your pedal will stay hard. (Made a how to in the Fusion how to section)

 

I don't like to bleed the brakes (clutch doesn't matter) by pumping the brake pedal, it can damage the internals of the masterbrake cilinder because you push it further in as normal. With the clutch pedal that isn't the case, you Always push it in completely.

 

Good idea to clean everything, that way you can detect leakages much easier instead of seeing old leakages.

 

Hope it solved now!



#6 john j

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 08:47 AM

Hi again Gombal, didn't bother with jet wash. But managed to get a clutch master cylinder from my local Ford dealer for £45. Going to fit it this morning. Ive taken the engine air filter housing off to make access to the two connecting pipes to theclutch master cylinder on the bulkhead more simple. The top union from the reservoir is simple, just have to squeeze it and it will pull off.But the bottom union that goes to the clutch looks like its going to be a !Removed!. It wouldn't be normally but its got two air conditioning pipes in front of it that cant be moved or disconnected. The union has a semi circular clip on it that has to be slid to one side in order to release the pipe. Trouble is I cant get to it. Do u know if when this clip is moved does it come right off because if I do manage to get at it, I will have to be careful that I dont drop it and lose it

#7 Gombal

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 10:15 AM

Just go to this page: http://ford.workshop...ndex.php?id=611

it's the whole workshop manual, index on the left side, very good site if you want to do something on you're car.

 

You can see how to release the quick coupling, just pull out the clip a little and that should be it.



#8 john j

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 07:13 AM

Hi Gombal, thanx very much for all your advice. I fitted a new master cylinder and everthing is ok now. It was one hell of a job due to restricted access to fit sockets, spanners etc. under the dash. If anybody is is doing this jod its a good idea to smear Vaseline or something simular on the foam pad that insulates the master cylinder from the bulkhead. It makes locating the pegs on the master cylinder into the holes in the peddle pivot box possible. Thanks again Gombal.

#9 Gombal

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 10:35 AM

Glad you got it sorted out!




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