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Boost Gauge Fitting Mk2.5 Focus 1.6Tdci


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#1 footfistart

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 04:31 PM

Hello all,
I am wanting to fit a boost gauge in an air vent above the centre console but I don't know whether I need a vacuum type gauge or non? And how would I wire it up and also get it to light up and then dim when lights are on. Also where would I put the pipe I know after the turbo bit where about. Here's a bot of engine. Doesn't reveal Much because cover is on.

Hoping someone knows a thing or two :)

Cheers

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#2 salsheikh

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:31 PM

Lenny has made a guide on how to plumb it all in.

 

For the pod gauge, contact mark kinetic_cars@yahoo.co.uk and tell him i sent you as he can sells the trim for the pod.



#3 Lenny

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:54 PM

Hello all,
I am wanting to fit a boost gauge in an air vent above the centre console but I don't know whether I need a vacuum type gauge or non? And how would I wire it up and also get it to light up and then dim when lights are on. Also where would I put the pipe I know after the turbo bit where about. Here's a bot of engine. Doesn't reveal Much because cover is on.
Hoping someone knows a thing or two :)
Cheers

  
Welcome to the forum Ryan,
Diesel turbos work differently compared to petrol so you won't have vaccum just positive pressure,
Your turbo is also a variable vain which means its the new age economical type.
Its turbine blades contract and expand to provide boost at different levels through out the rev range then the boost drops off as the engine picks up to speed.
The boost reading you can expect is up to 27psi so I'd purchase around a 2bar positive gauge.
Also see my st pod fitting guide for advise on pluming and electrical splicing aswell as auto dimming of gauge for night time driving.
http://www.fordowner...895#entry157895
If you have any questions I'm more than happy to assist,
I highly recommend fitting a boost gauge, some feel its a boy racer thing to do but its really not true,
Because when you can view your boost level, you can then drive in a more economical fashion that uses less boost saving you more fuel.
Also see my guide on fitting auto dim relay to gauges or DRLs
http://www.fordowner...-gauges-or-drl/
Purchasing the gauge,cable,pipe adaptor and pod can add up,
If you would prefer a more plug&play option I suggest you purchase a ScangaugeII
Plugs in to your OBD port, cable can be easily hidden it displays various gauge readings including boost,
Its backlight colour can be adjusted via the menu to match your interior backlight display.
It can also be flush fitted inside an ST dash pod if desired.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a83369575

Lenny has made a guide on how to plumb it all in.
 
For the pod gauge, contact mark kinetic_cars@yahoo.co.uk and tell him i sent you as he can sells the trim for the pod.

Thanks mate ;)

#4 footfistart

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 07:01 PM

Wow thanks for that guys. I wasn't expecting anything from anyone yet. Well as much as I would like to have an st pod fitted I don't really fancy cutting into my dash unless on you are willing to assist.... What I was thinking is that I can ditch a blower which will be centre right and get a blower holder which will just clip straight in as if it was the blower itself. And as I'm changing my centre console as in getting it hydro dipped ( I have a topic open if your willing to have a peak) so I was thinking perhaps do it all at once instead of pulling trim apart one time and then again a few weeks later. Makes more sense. Well it does to me. I'm getting the car remapped and dpf removal ( casing staying put to satisfy mot :) ) and dpf back exhaust with hidden exits to try and keep it looking standard.

Saying about driving more economically I'm getting 65mpg and climbing. And reason for mapping ect ect is to make the car even more economical. I still drive to the limit of the roads but having abit more power would be beneficial for over taking purposes.

Long life which is local to me said they'd map exhaust and dpf delete physically and mentally will be 899 inc vat :) so as soon as mot has been and gone ( first ever one ) things will start to happen :)

Again thanks for your input so far. Very helpful :)

#5 Lenny

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 08:03 PM

No prob Ryan,
Excellent price from long life,
In my opinion mate a single sided double exit exhaust will be just as much performance and lighter than a duplex exhaust,
Since your hiding out from view,
The only reason I went duplex is for the viewing pleasure mate.
Ask long life about it though and see what they say

I've gotta go now but I'll have a look at that thread you mentioned, tomorrow
Blanking your egr will increase performance too.

#6 footfistart

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 10:24 AM

Yeah I've blanked my egr valve as I said it only took 20mins to fit... Has made a difference. Car now averaging over 65mpg doing normal bit of everything driving... Also boost is more progressive instead of aggressive. You'd get to about 1800rpm then it will jump to about 3.5k in first wheels spinning and traction control going mad. But now I don't get wheel spin as much and it's much smoother... So how much would a gauge be? Would income with piping, adaptor and electrical cables? Because as I said above I don't want to cut I to my dash. Although it would look awesome... I think I'm going to ditch one of the vents and place the gauge there.... As I. Getting my air vents carbon covered I may as well get it done all at once.
Yeah I though that was a food price. Might try and get a thrown in aswell. But won't be happening until feb march next year. Pror planning prevent pee poor performance :)

Thanks for your help mate :)

#7 Lenny

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 02:57 PM

So how much would a gauge be? Would income with piping, adaptor and electrical cables? Because as I said above I don't want to cut I to my dash.
Thanks for your help mate :)

Their are two types of boost gauge available, "mechanical" or "electronic" the end results are the same readings but I personally prefer mechanical as its more responsive.

The mechanical boost gauge operates
By running a feed from the "ignition positive feed" to illuminate the gauge, followed by a "positive feed from interior lighting" connect this interior light feed to your "dimmer relay"

Finally you run a boost pipe from the rear of the gauge, through the grommet at the rear of the glovebox, in to the engine bay and on to the "turbo to intercooler" outlet pipe.
A special adaptor is required to make this connection possible, because the 1.6TDCi doesn't have a small boost pipe for us to tap in to.
Connect the boost pipe to the fitting using "Teflon tape" to seal from leak
And your ready to go.

I recommend fitting an "inline boost filter" this is easily replaceable and costs Penny's,
It will prevent contaminants from reaching your boost gauge.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5659c9eb4e

That is the full setup for a mechanical boost gauge in your car.
I will explain "electronic boost gauge" in another post because it is irrelevant to your requirements.

I will now update this post with a shopping list of parts so please check back in 20 minutes
Basically you require:
3amp cable,
Auto dim relay,
Boost pipe
Pipe inline filter
Boost gauge
2 female spade crimp connectors (10p each)
2 male spade crimp connectors. (10p each)

Now purchasing a gauge.
Its your choice on price and the all operate the same,
You can spend up to £200 on a boost gauge or as little as £8
There all the same size and fit the same way, generally the more boost they display then the more expensive they are.
Ive chosen a "Ford Racing" gauge which reads 4 bar boost 60PSi now this reading I will never see in my focus unless I use it to check tyre pressure perhaps lol
But I chose it because it had the ford logo and looks oem, they are available from £100-£120.

After fitting it though I regret not getting a 2bar gauge instead,
Because my gauge reads 4bar; the needle never sweeps the full face of the gauge,
If you fit a 2bar gauge, then the needle will sweep the almost circumpherence of the gauge and in my opinion looks much better.

A gauge like this one from VDO reads a maximum 15psi
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c23fa0f1d
This gauge needle will sweep the face when driving but you need one that reads up to at least 25psi
This is a nice little alternative from another good brand "AutoMeter"
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43a838dd8f
But to save you having to keep a conversion app on your phone to convert Psi to Bar every time someone asks you what boost your running?
Americans use Psi
Europe use Bar
So 25Psi is 1.72Bar pressure
This gauge from Demon tweaks in the uk looks to be good value and although displays a small level of vacuum, it sweeps the way you would like to see it.
Also supplied with boost pipe and T piece, but our turbo actuator hose is not long enough to T in to.
Which I will explain in a moment,
Anyways here's the gauge
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4cf7a9ab03

As you can see, the cost of the gauge is down to design and personal preference aswell as matching the output of the engine.
In our case a 1.5 bar gauge is too small of reading limit for our engine, but 2bar is what we require and if possible no display of vacuum on the gauge.

The next item you will require is one of these self sealing nipples to allow you tap in to the turn outlet pipe and obtain a boost reading.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a300cd467

Prior to purchase contact the seller of your chosen boost gauge and pipe, ensure that your boost pipe will fit the nipple and the gauge, I think it says 4mm

#8 Lenny

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 04:08 PM

Once you have chosen your mechanical boost gauge, got you're boost pipe, adaptor and inline filter.
Its your time to move on to the wiring of the gauge.

Because your boost gauge is mechanical it doesn't require and electricity to produce/display a boost reading on the gauge.

You only require power to illuminate the gauge.
However you will require power from two sources

You will require an ignition positive feed
And
An interior illumination positive feed (see fitting guide)
http://www.fordowner...-gauges-or-drl/

Following this you will require an auto dimmer relay
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35ca4a5716

Now "what does this all mean?

Your ignition positive feed will illuminate the boost gauge automatically when you start the car.
Then at night when you switch on your lights the gauge illumination will dim 50% to prevent glare at night driving and blend in to the factory illumination setup.

Next is some 3Amp cable,
I recommend from this supplier:
http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649
In this case 5m is too much cable but auto star only supply 5m lengths or above.
Don't worry though, this cable can also be used for foot well lighting front&rear, boot light, puddle lights etc. So I'm sure you will use it up at a later stage.

That's all the parts required,
I can also tell you what cables to splice in to for the ignition feed and lights on feed to power the relay,
Simply see my guides:

http://www.fordowner...-gauges-or-drl/

And here

http://www.fordowner...895#entry157895

#9 footfistart

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 07:19 PM

Right Lenny I'm going to go for a mechanical one as that's seems by your description seems easier to install. Well I say that but as I am wanting to ditch an air vent ill then also need to take the radio out then glovebox so I can then feed the pipe work through the grommet. As you said about getting a self sealing nipple would it be easier to drill a 4mm hole into the rubber boost pipe? Would you be able to and I know this will be a pain in the backside but would you be able to take pics of wiring for dimming and the positioning where to plumbed your boost pipe in? Anything will be a great help as that will make things easier :)
Also pics of cables to splice into for dimming gauge would be great. How would I gain access to the cables anyways?
Also location of teeing off for boost piping also would be awesome. More pics the better as then I could and when I do piece together a guide for other people so they don't struggle.

The vent I wish to buy hold a 52mm gauge and I have found a gauge but would like to know what you think of it..
http://www.ebay.co.u...d=330572606211

I think that will be more than enough as when car is mapped I'm sure pressure will be higher?

What's the special adaptor I need for it? And the auto dim replay? Where can I get that. Sorry was quite abit of info to take in and I've never ever done anything like this before so I want to get everything right first time. Car are " slightly " different to private aircraft I work on lol.
And also what did you mean when you were saying about having no vacuum and requiring a 2 bar gauge I understand that bit just but about no vacuum?
Any other information would be great.

Hope all is well and thanks for your help

#10 Lenny

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:00 PM

Hi mate no problem I was in your shoes once,
I've linked the auto dimmer relay in the post above,
Also linked the installation guide for the auto dimmer, this guide shows the cables you need to slice in to for dimming etc.
I've linked my guide fitting st pod to tdci focus, if you scroll through the guide it continues to show a guide on installing a boost gauge on a 1.6TDCi showing the routing of the boost pipe etc.

Here are some pictures from both guides

Image1729-1.jpg

Image1746-1.jpg

Image1749-1.jpg

Image1751.jpg

Image1758.jpg

Image1754.jpg
The gauge you linked looks great, but you won't need the vacuum section because diesel turbos don't suck in vast quantitys of air for compression like petrol turbos do,
The gauge will only show positive all of the time when fitted to your diesel.
Even though it is capable of showing vacuum, there won't be vaccum.

I've had my 1.6TDCi mapped and its maximum reading is 25psi
The focus boost limiter is set to 27psi so its impossible to run higher boost unless you upgrade the boost limiter.
I'd sooner fit a bigger turbo though.

You can fit an electronic boost gauge if desired,
Only difference is you would have a sensor cable feeding to your gauge instead of a pressured pipe.
A sensor fits to the pipe in the engine bay and sends an electronic reading to your boost gauge to display the pressure,
Same difference really. I just prefer mechanical

And yes you drill a hole in your intercooler pipe then seal it with the boost nipple,
All pipes must be air tight to perform 100%

I used a Roose sport 1/6NPT tapping adaptor in mine but the cost £55
The 4mm I linked you is the same results for less.

Here are some pictures from the st pod guide

Image1599.jpg

Image1602.jpg

SelfSealKitStep4.jpg

SelfSealKitStep13.jpg

SelfSealKitStep20.jpg

SelfSealKitStep21.jpg

SelfSealKitStep1.jpg

Remove the glovebox, and in the engine bay, remove the battery and battery box to access this grommet.

Image1640.jpg

Image1654.jpg

Image1653.jpg

Image1651.jpg

#11 footfistart

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 11:06 PM

Right ok then so your adapter you got where did you get that from? What about that self sealing nipple? Where does that come into it. Does that come in if your not Using adapter. I saw on a different forum think it was TDOC someone had a fiesta 1.6tdci and he/she had a adapter made which meant the rubber boost pipe was chopped to accommodate the peice. It consisted of what looked like a steel tube just smaller diameter than the pipe with a small pipe welded on which would be where the gauge pipe would go... But then looking again the engine is obviously different and the adapter would have to be tiny due to the nature of the pipes shape. I'm sorry for all these questions but here's another.... Why do you need to live feeds one from interior light and interior dash? Is that so it will auto dim? I think so looking at the relay.. talking of which where can I get that type of relay from? Thanks for linking the guides in. I get abit lost going back and forth then I loose where I was reading lol. Just noticed also that the gauge pipe does need to travel along way to the gauge. A good 6ft if you were to go right around edge of car right? Instead of taking more of a direct route but that would involve heat from going near engine? How does the hose react with the heat? I'd it ridged pipe but with some for of flexibility? I think I'd get the mechanism side of things working so if it does work once I know everything I need and got everything I need then that will boost my confidence in getting the light working :) those gauges you showed me before where they non vacuum type. EBay is abit hit and miss in description. Which is why I guess you said to email them when buying gauge hey?. One more question inline filter... Does it matter where you put it. I'm sure it doesn't bit of a stupid question really? Again many thanks for your help :)

Ryan

#12 Lenny

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 08:59 AM

Right ok then so your adapter you got where did you get that from? What about that self sealing nipple? Where does that come into it. Does that come in if your not Using adapter. I saw on a different forum think it was TDOC someone had a fiesta 1.6tdci and he/she had a adapter made which meant the rubber boost pipe was chopped to accommodate the peice. It consisted of what looked like a steel tube just smaller diameter than the pipe with a small pipe welded on which would be where the gauge pipe would go... But then looking again the engine is obviously different and the adapter would have to be tiny due to the nature of the pipes shape.

No prob
Your questions asked have some explaining, so I'm going to quote each question individually when responding,

You don't need to purchase the adaptor I've gotten and a self seal nipple,
You only need one or the other.
Even cheaper still if you can create that pipe saw on TDOC that fits in to the hose,
Perhaps even purchase a nipple and have a local exhaust specialist weld it to your front intercooler metal pipe.

Main objective is to get that boost pipe connected to the turbo outlet pipe,
3 ways of doing it using various adaptors.

. Induction.png

#13 Lenny

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 09:09 AM

Why do you need to live feeds one from interior light and interior dash? Is that so it will auto dim? I think so looking at the relay.. talking of which where can I get that type of relay from?

Correct,
The light in the gauge will always be powered from the ignition live feed,
Running the power from an ignition source though the relay and in to the gauge.

The relay then has a shall we say "sensor feed" we connect this to an interior light positive.
When this feed senses power in the interior lights,
It cuts the power going from your ignition feed to your gauge by 50% thus dimming the light.

The relay I used is from Genlabs and is there model "DRLR2 it comes with a lifetime warranty
I've linked it above but here it is mate.
http://go.redirectin...6tdci/?p=283181

And this is a link to fitting guide:
http://www.fordowner...-gauges-or-drl/

Image1731.jpg

#14 Lenny

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 09:57 AM

Just noticed also that the gauge pipe does need to travel along way to the gauge. A good 6ft if you were to go right around edge of car right?
Instead of taking more of a direct route but that would involve heat from going near engine?
How does the hose react with the heat?
Is it ridged pipe but with some for of flexibility?
I think I'd get the mechanism side of things working so if it does work once I know everything I need and got everything I need then that will boost my confidence in getting the light working :) those gauges you showed me before where they non vacuum type.
EBay is abit hit and miss in description.
Which is why I guess you said to email them when buying gauge hey?.

All boost hoses are either plastic or rubber,
Personally I'd always make best efforts to avoid running anything close to the engine given the heat it produces perticurally engines with DPF's
I think the hose I got with the ford racing gauge was 10m and it took the full length of it,
By running it tidy and leaving some excess in places.
I run it long the passenger wing, across the front panel and back up close to the radiator resivour tank.
Most boost gauges come supplied with a 10m hose but as said; contact the seller prior to purchase to find out what exactly your getting with the gauge,
This way you can ensure you will have all items required when the parcels arrive at your door.

Now there's no problem fitting a 2 bar gauge that displays vacuum,
It will never show vacuum in action, but your mates mite like to point out "why does your gauge display vacuum, when diesels don't have it"
Avoids the question to which there is no responwe ,
However all mechanical boost gauges are the same so you can buy cheap now and upgrade without any hassle at a later date.

#15 Lenny

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 10:19 AM

One more question inline filter... Does it matter where you put it. I'm sure it doesn't bit of a stupid question really? Again many thanks for your help :)
Ryan

Not a stupid question mate,
Its best fitted around 4-5" away from the engine side of the boost pipe,
This will prevent contaminants from filling the boost pipe all the way to your boost gauge.

So when changing the filter, you only need to replace that 4-5" of boost pipe,
Rather than the whole line to the back of the gauge.

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