Boost Gauge Fitting Mk2.5 Focus 1.6Tdci

[FOCA]

Right so I've bought a cardbon wrapped air vent pod. So outstanding shopping list is: correct me if I'm wrong and add if desired...

Gauge ( in progress)

3amp cable...not bought (how long do I need)

Autodim relay... Not bought

2x male and female red spade type crimps.... Not bought.

Inline filter for gauge... Not bought as no longer on eBay.

..

Cheers Ryan

Here are some suggestions -

You can hook up an analog mechanical gauge with no electrics at all - i did -

The gauge can just be connected directly to the inlet manifold / suitable boost hose (via the "self seal boost nipple" - as lenny suggested)

The inline filter is nice to have but not essential (sometimes the needle can "jiggle" if one is not fitted - it can smooth out "pulses"- i fitted a big, cheap, inline petrol filter to mine) - a bit like this -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-INLINE-FUEL-FILTER-ANF822-/320891966557?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab6a6d45d#ht_499wt_932

The volume of the filter reduced the "jiggling needle" - i don't know if you could just dispence with it and still not get "jiggling"

(it was from the gauge picking up the pulses from the pistons- i relocated the pick up point and i did not need the filter )

You will get a different PSI reading depending where you fit the gauge pick-up-point, Ie - there is a pressure-drop through the intercooler, and a smaller pipe has a higher velocity but a lower pressure (everything else being equal) - but it will give you an idea what is going on anyway

You should be able to see the gauge in daylight (it may not need to be lit up in the day - you might be able to see it fine) so you just need to light it up at night - so you just connect the light to the cars lights/ sidelight switch (no dimmer relay required)

It depends on the type of boost gauge you get - but the above is true for one like mine

I hope these suggestions/ ideas are useful :)

PS - i had planned to fit a (color matched) LED to my boost gauge - but ive gone and bought a smoked (blackout when off) boost gauge now and a load of other gauges which i plan to fit when i get round toit

[footfistart]

Right new update... Gauge bought for $65 all in instead of $150 :) just waitng for him to update eBay for postal costs as PayPal won't letme pay for the item. Now you ser iI'm crap with electrics but as it looks relatively easy to do I'll give it a bash but first thing first it's tohet the gauge working. Got a feeling iI need to buy more boost piping as this won't be long enough but you never know with americans. Thank you for suggestions FOCA. as you say ill get it plumbed in and see about the light. I don't really do slot of night driving. Well winter is in its way and I work 8 til 8 so it will be dark soon. I'll see how I go. And oh right I see I didn't know about pressure change. Well I knew it would go up and down. But I'm thinking of going into the rubber boost piping in my picture. I believe that's come straight from the turbo and then into the cooler then back up the right hand side into the engine right? I've got tape. I'll get the spades and amp cable as I'm sure it will get used up in time. I'd imagine it's a tee peice but you never knwo.

[footfistart]

Gauge sent and on the way. Inline filter on its way. Just need 3amp cable. Went into maplin today and saw these lenny. Would these be the same as the connectors you used?

[Lenny]

Gauge sent and on the way. Inline filter on its way. Just need 3amp cable. Went into maplin today and saw these lenny. Would these be the same as the connectors you used?

Those connectors in the image on the left

Won't connect

To those in the image on the right

They are spade connectors on the left image and bullet connectors on the right image.

Here is what you require insulated spade connectors, ask the maplins staff for assistance aswell they are generally very helpful

.

[footfistart]

Small update.... No boost gauge. Got a refund from the American. I didn't trust what he was doing. Saying thing and not actually doing them and the item hadn't been shipped and it's been a week so I've binned him and got money back now. So on the hunt again. This weekend I'll get some spades from maplins I'll show them the pics and go from there. If I was to get a smoked gauge would I still need to get a auto dim relay? So bit crappy really nothing much to say. Just need to sort the blank out I've received and fit to see what it will look like. Will post tomorrow.

[Lenny]

If I was to get a smoked gauge would I still need to get a auto dim relay?

A smoked gauge would have less glare at night, case of trial and error I suppose mate,

Try it at night then if you need a dimmer purchase it later

[footfistart]

I've decided I'm not going for smoked. Looks tackie and cheap. How much boost would my car be running at on a standard map? Just curious to be honest.

[Lenny]

I've decided I'm not going for smoked. Looks tackie and cheap. How much boost would my car be running at on a standard map? Just curious to be honest.

I think is around 20psi standard but won't be any more than 27psi regardless of map because the standard boost cut off is that.

It could be 25psi peak on standard map the same as performance map,

The only difference being I comes on at lower rpm,

You see because the turn is variable vain your boost comes on only under acceleration then levels back down t a consistent 10-15psi

On motorway speed driving,

[footfistart]

Oh right ok. I didn't know it was that pressure. I guess you can adjust manually the cut off pressure? Not that I would want to because that could cause engine problems right? I'm ordering a gauge today along with wiring and dimmer and I should be ready to go. So hopefully on my next four off everything will be here for me to get cracking. Oh I'll also need the sealing nipple.

[Lenny]

Oh right ok. I didn't know it was that pressure. I guess you can adjust manually the cut off pressure? Not that I would want to because that could cause engine problems right? I'm ordering a gauge today along with wiring and dimmer and I should be ready to go. So hopefully on my next four off everything will be here for me to get cracking. Oh I'll also need the sealing nipple.

The boost limit is electronicly set,

You can fit a bleed valve but I wouldn't recommend it on a variable vain turbo such as modern diesel engines because a bleed of air at low revs could blow the turbo at high revs,

Not really worth the gains, the ecu remap will make the most of the performance without using bleed valves,

If you had a Japanese turbo petrol car I'd say fit a cockpit adjustable bleed valve and a boost gauge.

But not on a modern diesel.

[footfistart]

Yeah I thought so... Yeah don't fancy blowing up my car. Oh I've tried the vent in my car. Looks great. Bit of a pain to remove the vent. Best way I found was to start at the bottom and then get your fingers under the vent and pull and pulls out. I found another rubber grommet to the left of the battery. Do you think I'd be able to go through that instead. Not sure where it goes though. Do you think it it goes into the radio area. Here's a pic to show you..

.

What do you think? Just trying to make less work for myself really to be honest.

[Lenny]

What do you think? Just trying to make less work for myself really to be honest.

OK you have removed the air vent the hard way,

Get two small flat head screw drivers,

Look in the top of the vent,

Push a screw driver in to the clip in weather side top inside the vent,

Push uk screw driver handles and slide out the vent no problem,

The rubber grommet you found is the only rubber grommet leading from inside the car to the engine bay,

Remove the glove box to get access to it on the inside,

Obtain stereo code

Disconnect battery,

Remove battery and battery box to gain perfect access to engine side of grommet,

Remove tape from grommet to allow yourself fish the boost cable through,

Maybe a good idea to purchase some 10amp cable and run a length through while your at it,

You can store it rolled u inside the battery box

For any future mods such as DRLs on a switch or oil pressure sensor for a gauge etc.

Running the cable while doing the boost gauge pipe will save you the hassle in the future.

[footfistart]

The hard way. Oh right I'll have to have another look when everything arrives. I found it fairly easy to remove after figuring out how much movement I had before anything started to break. Nothing broken though lol. Oh right now by the previous descriptions oh removing the battery was making me think that the grommet was behind the battery. I've got aload of welding wire so I could tape the piping to that and feed it through the grommet that way without removing the battery. Is there anything I need tor do to the car before removing the battery. It won't activate anything so that the car goes into some dead lock mode or something. And how do I get the code. Is it within the radio menu. On the off chance it could be written down in the car hand book.

So now just waiting for everything to arrive now. Got a carbon gauge, wiring, dimmer and sealing nipple. Possibly need more boost piping through. Depending on how much pipe comes with the gauge. Was an expaexpansive four off as iI had to buy four tyres as well. Never ending spending money on cars.

[Lenny]

The hard way. Oh right I'll have to have another look when everything arrives. I found it fairly easy to remove after figuring out how much movement I had before anything started to break. Nothing broken though lol. Oh right now by the previous descriptions oh removing the battery was making me think that the grommet was behind the battery. I've got aload of welding wire so I could tape the piping to that and feed it through the grommet that way without removing the battery. Is there anything I need tor do to the car before removing the battery. It won't activate anything so that the car goes into some dead lock mode or something. And how do I get the code. Is it within the radio menu. On the off chance it could be written down in the car hand book.

So now just waiting for everything to arrive now. Got a carbon gauge, wiring, dimmer and sealing nipple. Possibly need more boost piping through. Depending on how much pipe comes with the gauge. Was an expaexpansive four off as iI had to buy four tyres as well. Never ending spending money on cars.

Hopefully the stereo code is printed in the manual mate or on a card in the manual folder,

Just unbolt the terminals from the battery and lift it out,

Don't store it on the ground though,

Keep it up on a table or something because sitting them on the ground will zap the life something to do with the damp in the ground or something,

And I totally agree mate spending on cars, I've been modding 3 years now on the focus, I'd love a few pints but keep finding more mods and favour the mods over the pints lol as result I haven't had a drink since 25th december ,

I'll celebrate next month though after dpf internal removal,

[footfistart]

Yeah I'm hoping so but who knows... If you haven't drank for that long you should have a decent beer fund lol. I dont drink at all so more money for me :) do you not have the dpf done at all then? I would think you'd see some decent power gains perhaps another 10bhp. I'm hoping to probs see around 140 but still to keep the car safe. Don't want to blow the turbo or injectors. What sort of mpg do you get? My car is still climbing sice I blanked the egr off. 66mpg. And when it was blanked I was reading 62.7 and I do the same journey. So all good :)

Thanks mate for your help. Oh crap I need to buy those crimps I've forgotten them lol

[Lenny]

Yeah I'm hoping so but who knows... If you haven't drank for that long you should have a decent beer fund lol. I dont drink at all so more money for me :) do you not have the dpf done at all then? I would think you'd see some decent power gains perhaps another 10bhp. I'm hoping to probs see around 140 but still to keep the car safe. Don't want to blow the turbo or injectors. What sort of mpg do you get? My car is still climbing sice I blanked the egr off. 66mpg. And when it was blanked I was reading 62.7 and I do the same journey. So all good :)

Thanks mate for your help. Oh crap I need to buy those crimps I've forgotten them lol

No dpf work done yet mate,

My exhaust is standar from the flexi pipe to the manifold,

Hope to get the flexi changed to 2.5" after christmas to make it a straight through 2.5" from turbo to tip

Ive been driving as economically as possible lately using the boost gauge for gear changes,

The more I can drive with less boost the more economical I become,

Driving at 62MPH using 2psi boost Currently getting 74.6MPG that's the best I can do,

Takes me an exta 5 minutes to get to work instead of a motorway run but its fun having 125bhp under the bonnet and 74.6Mpg in the tank lol

I'm expecting 10-15bhp increase from dpf internal delete with a reduction in spool time on the turbo due to increased free flow on the exhaust.

The say MPG will increase too but it has to burn something lol

So we will see what happens

[footfistart]

Wow really that's good. I normally go by the shift light which lights up around 1900. So I'm sure using the boost gauge I'll get even more mpg. Yeah I would of thought about ten to fifteen horses. Be very

noticeable esespecially with the torque :). You got standard clutch or have you updated that?

So you getting the dpf housing split and the breese block removed lol.

My self sealing nipple arrived today along with the wiring. The nipple looks very good and looks strong :) and wiring well it's wiring lol. I might just get dpf removed and deleted and see what sort of gains I can get.

[Lenny]

Wow really that's good. I normally go by the shift light which lights up around 1900. So I'm sure using the boost gauge I'll get even more mpg. Yeah I would of thought about ten to fifteen horses. Be very

noticeable esespecially with the torque :). You got standard clutch or have you updated that?

So you getting the dpf housing split and the breese block removed lol.

My self sealing nipple arrived today along with the wiring. The nipple looks very good and looks strong :) and wiring well it's wiring lol. I might just get dpf removed and deleted and see what sort of gains I can get.

I do need to upgrade the clutch if I'm honest mate,

I don't like spending money on clutch or brake upgrades because there not much fun lol but I've been watching this clutch for a while

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180982110154?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I look forward to your images of the gauge fitted,

If you get stuck just ask,

And my focus 1.6tdci was the 90bhp standard so you will get bigger gains from mapping because your turbo is bigger than mine.

[footfistart]

Stage two? What's stage one? How easy/hard is it for clutch change then? Is that a direct swap? Oh right you still have a good increase in power from 90-125. See what you should do and what other people have/should be doing with lower powered tdci is to upgrade the injectors I.e your 90 to my 110 and again with turbo. I'm sure it doesn't take too much modification hey? I've spoken to someone and he had 186bhp from a 1.6tfci. But its heavily tuned. Lol I bet it pulls like a freight train. Yeah I can't wait either got everything accept gauge. Grrr oh well next four off it will be fitted :)

[Lenny]

Stage two? What's stage one? How easy/hard is it for clutch change then? Is that a direct swap? Oh right you still have a good increase in power from 90-125. See what you should do and what other people have/should be doing with lower powered tdci is to upgrade the injectors I.e your 90 to my 110 and again with turbo. I'm sure it doesn't take too much modification hey? I've spoken to someone and he had 186bhp from a 1.6tfci. But its heavily tuned. Lol I bet it pulls like a freight train. Yeah I can't wait either got everything accept gauge. Grrr oh well next four off it will be fitted :)

From research on this the injectors are the same and the Garret Gt1544v that you have is a straight swap,

Which would take me up to 140bhp

And regarding the clutch I presume stage 1 is the stock clutch lol

To change the clutch the engine needs to come out from the gear box,

So I was going to purchase the clutch and wait till timiming belt is due,

Get water pump, clutch and timing belt all done while its out.

140bhp would be enough power, anything higher and you will need the gear box worked on,

Then it gets in to silly money all together.

I'd sooner purchase a 2000reg Toyota Levin BZR with a 1.6 N/A 168bhp black top engine

I'd like an electric blue one,

Bomex body kit, lowered on some white 17" folk TE47 alloys.

Can be picked up now for under 2000euro

A hybrid turbo alone for the focus is 1100

.

[footfistart]

That's a nice car. Being a jap car you'll see plenty of power to be squeezed out of that :) do I have the same gearbox as you I would of thought so. See all you need is all the bits off of my car and onto yours and youll have a winner :) when is your belt due it's change then. You can't of put many miles in that surely? My gauge will arrive Saturday :) so everything will be fitted on my next four off. Just need a drill the same size or slightly smaller so try and intimate any possible leaks. And a good thing about the industry I work in I can get hold of alotnof stuff. Especially piping. So I've just sourced aload for the gauge :)

[Lenny]

That's a nice car. Being a jap car you'll see plenty of power to be squeezed out of that :) do I have the same gearbox as you I would of thought so. See all you need is all the bits off of my car and onto yours and youll have a winner :) when is your belt due it's change then. You can't of put many miles in that surely? My gauge will arrive Saturday :) so everything will be fitted on my next four off. Just need a drill the same size or slightly smaller so try and intimate any possible leaks. And a good thing about the industry I work in I can get hold of alotnof stuff. Especially piping. So I've just sourced aload for the gauge :)

Lol only your turbo is different and remapped I'm only losing 15bhp compared to being remapped with the same turbo as your car, your gearbox etc is all the same

I'm very happy with the car I have, but I'm tempted to purchase a Levin for fun as they use velocity stacks induction

I think timing belt is due around 150,000 miles but not 100% sure, I've got 82,000miles on it now

You don't need to drill the grommet leading to the engine bay,

Just undo the PVC tape and push it through the hole then tape it up again.

[footfistart]

Oh right mines due at 125000k. I was looking at my self sealing nipple at it has two rubber washers. I'd imagine and correct me if I'm wrong that one of the washers will go inside and the other to go on the outside to stop it from leaking? Also I forgot to say that drilling I meant drilling into the rubber boost pipe. Sorry lol

[Lenny]

Oh right mines due at 125000k. I was looking at my self sealing nipple at it has two rubber washers. I'd imagine and correct me if I'm wrong that one of the washers will go inside and the other to go on the outside to stop it from leaking? Also I forgot to say that drilling I meant drilling into the rubber boost pipe. Sorry lol

Yes that's correct mate

One washer inside

One washer outside

Then bolt down tight,

This prevents splitting under heavy pressure.

[footfistart]

Hello mate right fitting gauge today got everything. Could you please send me a pics of what wires I need to splice into? I had to modify the vent as the gauge wouldn't fit. So had to do abit of chopping and now all is well :)