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footfistart

Boost Gauge Fitting Mk2.5 Focus 1.6Tdci

74 posts in this topic

Hello mate right fitting gauge today got everything. Could you please send me a pics of what wires I need to splice into? I had to modify the vent as the gauge wouldn't fit. So had to do abit of chopping and now all is well :)

Easiest way to show you at the present time is for me to refer to Preee's led cup holder illumination guide

. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/28100-guide-to-fitting-smd-leds-to-cup-holder/

And quote an extract from it because photo bucket is failing me at the moment

As press says below splice in to the plug for switched positive live, meaning the gauge illuminates along with your interior lights.

Splice in to the large black cable at the rear of the climate controls for an earth feed.

STEP 5)Using a flat head screwdriver , start from the bottom of the radio surround , insert screwdriver covered witha cloth and using a twisting action work your way from the bottom / middle and upwards until radio surround is free.20111105115825.jpgBy preeee at 2011-11-05http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/2724/20111105115917.jpg%5DByBy preeee at 2011-11-05STEP 6)Using T25 HEX screwdriver undo the two retaining screws and remover , un-clip the set of buttons.You can now see the wiring for the buttons , i found two live feeds when lights are turned on.Furthest right (on mine)is the wires used for the ESP or Electric roof on CC models Orange/White = +. Left of that are the wires for the Rear Demisterwire is Orange/Black + both of these are live when side lights are turned on.

.20111105120640.jpg

Alternatively if you want the gauge to illuminate on the ignition start,

Then splice it in t the large red feed at the rear of the climate controls

georgen likes this

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Right ok yeah I thought photo bucket is down as I was trying to go back through the pics and well I can't see them which was why I was asking. Right ok so surround off the radio out as I need to get behind it for pipe routing and give box to be removed to access the grommet. I've got to wait a while for the car to cool down as I've been out and about. I went to the dealership to get radio code as I didn't have one in the end. All free of charge of course :) also found out how to find your serial code out without removing the stereo :) I think I'll worry about electronic bits later as in tomorrow as I just want to get it mechanically working. If I get stuff I'll post pics so watch out :)

Lenny likes this

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Right ok yeah I thought photo bucket is down as I was trying to go back through the pics and well I can't see them which was why I was asking. Right ok so surround off the radio out as I need to get behind it for pipe routing and give box to be removed to access the grommet. I've got to wait a while for the car to cool down as I've been out and about. I went to the dealership to get radio code as I didn't have one in the end. All free of charge of course :) also found out how to find your serial code out without removing the stereo :) I think I'll worry about electronic bits later as in tomorrow as I just want to get it mechanically working. If I get stuff I'll post pics so watch out :)

Look forward to pictures of results mate,

My photobucket is down because they want me to pay for the usage on there server,

I'll sort it out Thursday

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Right i had the gauge fitted not electrically but mechanically and now I've encountered a problem. The gauge has stopped working..... I have no idea what's up with it. When it was installed it was making a whooshing noise to begin with but that was because the gauge side wasn't air tight enough. But the gauge registered 22psi peak but that wouldn't affect it as it's goes up to 30psi.. I checked to see if the pipe had came off the gauge but no. Then checked the filter. No nothing. So I have no idea. I've replied to the guy on eBay explaining basically what I've said to you. So just waiting for reply now. What do you think I should do?

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So radio out.....

post-27911-0-86421000-1378154914_thumb.j

Vent out

post-27911-0-66234600-1378155048_thumb.j

Boost pipe before.

post-27911-0-75177200-1378155191_thumb.j

Boost pipe after. Please note that cable ties were added after...

post-27911-0-50930800-1378155271_thumb.j

Gauge fitted...

post-27911-0-70071300-1378155403_thumb.j

So there would of been more pics of it working but I'm having trouble with it :( please help!!!

georgen likes this

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Gauge not working = pipe is broken/ disconnected or blocked - check it has not come off / is not kinked where it goes through the firewall & is the bonnet pressing against it when it closes?

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Boost gauge looks great fitted,

As foca says check the line mate,

And its worth noting boost won't rise when you rev the car or drive at consistent speed below 80mph

As I've said before the diesel turbo is a variable vain which helps the engine naturally reach speed then dies off as the engine naturally reaches the point of providing the speed.

So in some cases driving below 80mph it won't display consistent boost

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Boost gauge working again... The rubber grommet that I passed it throught was too tight areund the hose causing it to crush and cut off the reading. Then I heard a hissing noise coming from the gauge itself. And the pipe that was crushes had part of that but the other part was that where the pipe connects to the gauge was loose sink managed to get another 1/4 of a tern on it without it breaking. It's quietened down a lot but still there. I guess that's what you get with a £20 gauge. But works well. It's just wiring now. I need full details to be honest. I'm a dump !Removed! when it comes to electrics. Basically I want the gauge to be lite when I turn the lights on. And also would like gauge lite when lights are also off?

Thanks for your help to diagnose my first initial problem :)

Lenny likes this

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Boost gauge working again... The rubber grommet that I passed it throught was too tight areund the hose causing it to crush and cut off the reading. Then I heard a hissing noise coming from the gauge itself. And the pipe that was crushes had part of that but the other part was that where the pipe connects to the gauge was loose sink managed to get another 1/4 of a tern on it without it breaking. It's quietened down a lot but still there. I guess that's what you get with a £20 gauge. But works well. It's just wiring now. I need full details to be honest. I'm a dump !Removed! when it comes to electrics. Basically I want the gauge to be lite when I turn the lights on. And also would like gauge lite when lights are also off?

Thanks for your help to diagnose my first initial problem :)

Do you want the gauge to dim when you turn the lights on,

Or

Stay illuminated just the same weather lights are on or not?

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I would like it to come on and dim when lights are turned on...but the thing is I don't know how bright the bulb is I guess I can try the bulb by using a battery and test it that way surely? But I do want it dimmed :)

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I would like it to come on and dim when lights are turned on...but the thing is I don't know how bright the bulb is I guess I can try the bulb by using a battery and test it that way surely? But I do want it dimmed :)

To get it dimmimg you will need to purchase a genlabs relay that I've linked you to in earleier pages of this thread.

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Yeah I brought all of that crimps and cabling album all ready to wire up

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Yeah I brought all of that crimps and cabling album all ready to wire up

OK so you have the dimmer relay to hand ?

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Yeah I've got it at hand. I've got some scotch locks as a temp measure for now. Just need to know whether the wires are under the radio or the climate control? And what colours. Possible pictures would help as I'm a dummy

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I've got a slight issue... My dimmer only has 5 wires? Is That still ok? So do I run the 3amp cable from my gauge positive and negative down behind the radio where the relay will sit? So because I do t have the extra wires am I able to dim it?

post-27911-0-15341300-1378309238_thumb.j

So if its the case how to I wire ot up without dimming. Will had more pics of my wiring

This is radio wiring. I have no idea what wire does what. Im struggling to get the climate controls out. I have no idea how they come out.

post-27911-0-14244100-1378310906_thumb.j

Here's the cable thickness of the gauge which tells me hardly any power is required

I've tested the bulb and seems to be not as bright as I thought it would be. As it's a yellowish light it's shouldn't be as much glare as you would have with a white light?

post-27911-0-74649400-1378311480_thumb.j

I have found a wiring diagram of the radio I'll add a pic of it below for you to have a look at. Maybe easier to come off the ignition live which is pin 16 and the wire is yellow/green and then pin 12 is ground... Which is green/black.

post-27911-0-38270900-1378313586_thumb.j

post-27911-0-59312000-1378313621_thumb.j

Would I need anything else as I don't think I can use the relay.

Here is the diagram of plug

post-27911-0-82318400-1378313692_thumb.p

I think that is all I can add for now.....

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The relay operation will be

Two cables for feed inwards,

That's a positive and negative from your ignition.

Two cables feed outwards,

That's positive and negative feeding to your gauge.

One cable sensor feed,

This cable connects to an interior light positive

When it séances power in the line it will dim the flow to the gauge by 50%

Sorry for my lack of response this week mate,

I'm working nights and can be drowsey while online during the day,

Becomes a struggle to get in to technical discussions as I tend to become weak and black out on occasion lol

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That's alright no worries mate. Would you be able to tell me what colours do what on my module? And where will I find the interior light positive? So I need to splice into the positive and negative feed from ignition? What colours are the ignition cables and where will I find them? How do I remove the climate controls? Will the cables be behind that? All mine is all taped up keeping it neat ant tidy.. but to be honest I'm really confused on what does to what and what goes to where? Like the two feeds in? Where do they go. What colours am looking for? The two outs the go direct to to the gauge as in wire positive out and negative out to positive on gauge and negative on gauge right? So yeah sorry sorry for being like this. But I have no clue what's so ever. So wouldn't I be able To use the radio wiring?

Lenny likes this

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Hi - since your gauge is not that bright save youself a lot of hassle and just wire it up without dimming -

If you simply wire it up so it lights up when the (side) light are switched on - it should not need to be lit when the light are off

first of all you need an earth for your gauge - connect the black wire to anything metal - the head unit might do - extend the wire if nessesary

then you have to connect the positive (red wire) on your gauge to the lights feed - i think this is pin 14 on your head unit

The wire has to stay connected to the head unit - you just "tap" into it with the scotchblok

Otherwise you can connect it to the lighting on your centre console - you may have to extend the wire and if you like you can fit an in-line fuse (as a precaution)

You should not need to remove the climate controls and you wont need access to the ignition either

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Awesome that sounds loads better :) ill give that ago today once I've been down to my allotment (big project I've just picked up yesterday ) so yeah I thought I could use the radio wiring :) I'm glad now as I can do that and won't take me long at all. Thanks FOCA :)

FOCA and Lenny like this

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All wired up and now working... Happy days I'll post pics this evening when it's dark :) many thanks to all who has taken interest :)

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All wired up and now working... Happy days I'll post pics this evening when it's dark :) many thanks to all who has taken interest :)

Look forward to the pictures mate,

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Small update.... The gauge that I have has an internal leak. I believe it's a failed solenoid and let's air out. I've leak checked everything and it's the union itself. I managed to get a quarter of a tern on it but didn't make any difference. The gauge works but it seems to measure a lot of boost when on the move. In comparison with yours at 60mph my car is producing around 10-12psi and if I'm going down a hill it will drop to about 8psi. It peaks around 22-25psi depending on weather. So I'm not sure if the gauge is out of calibration. It flutters on tick over anything from -5psi to +2psi. I've got a inline filter to stop this flutter but doesn't seem to make any differences.

Here's a pic of it at night

post-27911-0-37038700-1378996992_thumb.j

And during the day.

post-27911-0-39040800-1378997061_thumb.j

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Fit a larger filter (larger internal volume) the flutter should stop - its the gauge reading the "pulses" from the cylinders - the closer the pick up point is to the inlet manifold - the bigger the "pulses" - if you fit the gauge pick-up-point at the output of the intercooler - you may not need a filter (the filter is required for its "volume"- a sealed can or container can work, too)

if the guage pick-up point is close to the compressor outlet - it can pick up the compressor "surging" etc

Your boost goes up and down in normal use - when you are accelerating hard, going uphill etc, or on "full throttle" the boost goes up, running downhill, "crouising" on the flat, at tickover - the boost comes down - the gauge measures this - it may just be doing its job

are you actually hearing hissing/ air escaping? or a lack of performance?

PS - a mechanical boost gauge does not have solenoids, or electrical parts (apart from the light ) - its a bit like a barometer (its a realatively simple mechanical device) they are fairly reliable, mostly, they are accurate give or take +- 2PSI - you will get a different reading depending where you put your pick-up-point (high on the outlet of the compressor, lower after the intercooler(due to the pressure drop))

The reason you place the pick-up-point after the intercooler is it takes the intercooler pressure-drop into account and gives a more accurate idea of the boost "seen" by the engine - on advanced set-ups there may be 2 boost gauges to measure the pressure drop through the intercooler or measure the output of the compressor to optimise it, etc

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I loosened The union and found that it was cracked. I received another boost gauge from the same company I asked on the off chance if you could send me another one as an exchange so I plumbed that in and the needle knocked and vibrates alot and I'm not prepared to take it apart so I'm going to send them both back when I get a yes on refund. Pain in the backside really. My pick up is on the rubber boost pipe just after the turbo. The filter I've got is big enough I know I can always go bigger but it just means more money really. Nevertheless I'm going to carry on and loon for a better gauge. Goes to show that price on somethings does mean better quality...

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