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Boost Gauge Fitting Mk2.5 Focus 1.6Tdci


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#31 Lenny

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 01:25 PM

If I was to get a smoked gauge would I still need to get a auto dim relay?

A smoked gauge would have less glare at night, case of trial and error I suppose mate,
Try it at night then if you need a dimmer purchase it later

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#32 footfistart

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 07:22 PM

I've decided I'm not going for smoked. Looks tackie and cheap. How much boost would my car be running at on a standard map? Just curious to be honest.

#33 Lenny

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 08:07 PM

I've decided I'm not going for smoked. Looks tackie and cheap. How much boost would my car be running at on a standard map? Just curious to be honest.

I think is around 20psi standard but won't be any more than 27psi regardless of map because the standard boost cut off is that.

It could be 25psi peak on standard map the same as performance map,
The only difference being I comes on at lower rpm,

You see because the turn is variable vain your boost comes on only under acceleration then levels back down t a consistent 10-15psi
On motorway speed driving,

#34 footfistart

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 09:07 AM

Oh right ok. I didn't know it was that pressure. I guess you can adjust manually the cut off pressure? Not that I would want to because that could cause engine problems right? I'm ordering a gauge today along with wiring and dimmer and I should be ready to go. So hopefully on my next four off everything will be here for me to get cracking. Oh I'll also need the sealing nipple.

#35 Lenny

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 02:42 PM

Oh right ok. I didn't know it was that pressure. I guess you can adjust manually the cut off pressure? Not that I would want to because that could cause engine problems right? I'm ordering a gauge today along with wiring and dimmer and I should be ready to go. So hopefully on my next four off everything will be here for me to get cracking. Oh I'll also need the sealing nipple.

The boost limit is electronicly set,
You can fit a bleed valve but I wouldn't recommend it on a variable vain turbo such as modern diesel engines because a bleed of air at low revs could blow the turbo at high revs,
Not really worth the gains, the ecu remap will make the most of the performance without using bleed valves,

If you had a Japanese turbo petrol car I'd say fit a cockpit adjustable bleed valve and a boost gauge.
But not on a modern diesel.

#36 footfistart

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 10:36 PM

Yeah I thought so... Yeah don't fancy blowing up my car. Oh I've tried the vent in my car. Looks great. Bit of a pain to remove the vent. Best way I found was to start at the bottom and then get your fingers under the vent and pull and pulls out. I found another rubber grommet to the left of the battery. Do you think I'd be able to go through that instead. Not sure where it goes though. Do you think it it goes into the radio area. Here's a pic to show you..

image.jpg .

What do you think? Just trying to make less work for myself really to be honest.

#37 Lenny

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 03:05 PM

What do you think? Just trying to make less work for myself really to be honest.

OK you have removed the air vent the hard way,
Get two small flat head screw drivers,
Look in the top of the vent,
Push a screw driver in to the clip in weather side top inside the vent,
Push uk screw driver handles and slide out the vent no problem,

The rubber grommet you found is the only rubber grommet leading from inside the car to the engine bay,
Remove the glove box to get access to it on the inside,
Obtain stereo code
Disconnect battery,
Remove battery and battery box to gain perfect access to engine side of grommet,
Remove tape from grommet to allow yourself fish the boost cable through,
Maybe a good idea to purchase some 10amp cable and run a length through while your at it,
You can store it rolled u inside the battery box
For any future mods such as DRLs on a switch or oil pressure sensor for a gauge etc.
Running the cable while doing the boost gauge pipe will save you the hassle in the future.

#38 footfistart

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 04:36 PM

The hard way. Oh right I'll have to have another look when everything arrives. I found it fairly easy to remove after figuring out how much movement I had before anything started to break. Nothing broken though lol. Oh right now by the previous descriptions oh removing the battery was making me think that the grommet was behind the battery. I've got aload of welding wire so I could tape the piping to that and feed it through the grommet that way without removing the battery. Is there anything I need tor do to the car before removing the battery. It won't activate anything so that the car goes into some dead lock mode or something. And how do I get the code. Is it within the radio menu. On the off chance it could be written down in the car hand book.

So now just waiting for everything to arrive now. Got a carbon gauge, wiring, dimmer and sealing nipple. Possibly need more boost piping through. Depending on how much pipe comes with the gauge. Was an expaexpansive four off as iI had to buy four tyres as well. Never ending spending money on cars.

#39 Lenny

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 05:47 PM

The hard way. Oh right I'll have to have another look when everything arrives. I found it fairly easy to remove after figuring out how much movement I had before anything started to break. Nothing broken though lol. Oh right now by the previous descriptions oh removing the battery was making me think that the grommet was behind the battery. I've got aload of welding wire so I could tape the piping to that and feed it through the grommet that way without removing the battery. Is there anything I need tor do to the car before removing the battery. It won't activate anything so that the car goes into some dead lock mode or something. And how do I get the code. Is it within the radio menu. On the off chance it could be written down in the car hand book.
So now just waiting for everything to arrive now. Got a carbon gauge, wiring, dimmer and sealing nipple. Possibly need more boost piping through. Depending on how much pipe comes with the gauge. Was an expaexpansive four off as iI had to buy four tyres as well. Never ending spending money on cars.

Hopefully the stereo code is printed in the manual mate or on a card in the manual folder,
Just unbolt the terminals from the battery and lift it out,
Don't store it on the ground though,
Keep it up on a table or something because sitting them on the ground will zap the life something to do with the damp in the ground or something,
And I totally agree mate spending on cars, I've been modding 3 years now on the focus, I'd love a few pints but keep finding more mods and favour the mods over the pints lol as result I haven't had a drink since 25th december ,
I'll celebrate next month though after dpf internal removal,

#40 footfistart

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 06:04 PM

Yeah I'm hoping so but who knows... If you haven't drank for that long you should have a decent beer fund lol. I dont drink at all so more money for me :) do you not have the dpf done at all then? I would think you'd see some decent power gains perhaps another 10bhp. I'm hoping to probs see around 140 but still to keep the car safe. Don't want to blow the turbo or injectors. What sort of mpg do you get? My car is still climbing sice I blanked the egr off. 66mpg. And when it was blanked I was reading 62.7 and I do the same journey. So all good :)
Thanks mate for your help. Oh crap I need to buy those crimps I've forgotten them lol

#41 Lenny

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 07:11 PM

Yeah I'm hoping so but who knows... If you haven't drank for that long you should have a decent beer fund lol. I dont drink at all so more money for me :) do you not have the dpf done at all then? I would think you'd see some decent power gains perhaps another 10bhp. I'm hoping to probs see around 140 but still to keep the car safe. Don't want to blow the turbo or injectors. What sort of mpg do you get? My car is still climbing sice I blanked the egr off. 66mpg. And when it was blanked I was reading 62.7 and I do the same journey. So all good :)
Thanks mate for your help. Oh crap I need to buy those crimps I've forgotten them lol

No dpf work done yet mate,
My exhaust is standar from the flexi pipe to the manifold,
Hope to get the flexi changed to 2.5" after christmas to make it a straight through 2.5" from turbo to tip
Ive been driving as economically as possible lately using the boost gauge for gear changes,
The more I can drive with less boost the more economical I become,
Driving at 62MPH using 2psi boost Currently getting 74.6MPG that's the best I can do,
Takes me an exta 5 minutes to get to work instead of a motorway run but its fun having 125bhp under the bonnet and 74.6Mpg in the tank lol
I'm expecting 10-15bhp increase from dpf internal delete with a reduction in spool time on the turbo due to increased free flow on the exhaust.
The say MPG will increase too but it has to burn something lol
So we will see what happens

#42 footfistart

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 04:09 PM

Wow really that's good. I normally go by the shift light which lights up around 1900. So I'm sure using the boost gauge I'll get even more mpg. Yeah I would of thought about ten to fifteen horses. Be very
noticeable esespecially with the torque :). You got standard clutch or have you updated that?
So you getting the dpf housing split and the breese block removed lol.
My self sealing nipple arrived today along with the wiring. The nipple looks very good and looks strong :) and wiring well it's wiring lol. I might just get dpf removed and deleted and see what sort of gains I can get.

#43 Lenny

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 04:28 PM

Wow really that's good. I normally go by the shift light which lights up around 1900. So I'm sure using the boost gauge I'll get even more mpg. Yeah I would of thought about ten to fifteen horses. Be very
noticeable esespecially with the torque :). You got standard clutch or have you updated that?
So you getting the dpf housing split and the breese block removed lol.
My self sealing nipple arrived today along with the wiring. The nipple looks very good and looks strong :) and wiring well it's wiring lol. I might just get dpf removed and deleted and see what sort of gains I can get.

I do need to upgrade the clutch if I'm honest mate,
I don't like spending money on clutch or brake upgrades because there not much fun lol but I've been watching this clutch for a while
http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649
I look forward to your images of the gauge fitted,
If you get stuck just ask,
And my focus 1.6tdci was the 90bhp standard so you will get bigger gains from mapping because your turbo is bigger than mine.

#44 footfistart

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:01 PM

Stage two? What's stage one? How easy/hard is it for clutch change then? Is that a direct swap? Oh right you still have a good increase in power from 90-125. See what you should do and what other people have/should be doing with lower powered tdci is to upgrade the injectors I.e your 90 to my 110 and again with turbo. I'm sure it doesn't take too much modification hey? I've spoken to someone and he had 186bhp from a 1.6tfci. But its heavily tuned. Lol I bet it pulls like a freight train. Yeah I can't wait either got everything accept gauge. Grrr oh well next four off it will be fitted :)

#45 Lenny

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:38 PM

Stage two? What's stage one? How easy/hard is it for clutch change then? Is that a direct swap? Oh right you still have a good increase in power from 90-125. See what you should do and what other people have/should be doing with lower powered tdci is to upgrade the injectors I.e your 90 to my 110 and again with turbo. I'm sure it doesn't take too much modification hey? I've spoken to someone and he had 186bhp from a 1.6tfci. But its heavily tuned. Lol I bet it pulls like a freight train. Yeah I can't wait either got everything accept gauge. Grrr oh well next four off it will be fitted :)

From research on this the injectors are the same and the Garret Gt1544v that you have is a straight swap,
Which would take me up to 140bhp
And regarding the clutch I presume stage 1 is the stock clutch lol
To change the clutch the engine needs to come out from the gear box,
So I was going to purchase the clutch and wait till timiming belt is due,
Get water pump, clutch and timing belt all done while its out.
140bhp would be enough power, anything higher and you will need the gear box worked on,
Then it gets in to silly money all together.
I'd sooner purchase a 2000reg Toyota Levin BZR with a 1.6 N/A 168bhp black top engine
I'd like an electric blue one,
Bomex body kit, lowered on some white 17" folk TE47 alloys.
Can be picked up now for under 2000euro
A hybrid turbo alone for the focus is 1100

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