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georgen

My Mk2 Focus Estate

59 posts in this topic

Well went to the post office, luckily its at the top of my street :)

this is what I got today, Ive had a nightmare getting hold of this for sensible money :)

007_zps53dab049.jpg

More stuff to do this weekend then :D

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Could've had mine if you'd found me a 4 spoke with CC buttons! ;-)

georgen likes this

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that will be a rarer beast to find me thinks ;) , Got this one for £55 delivered including airbag so not complaining, just ordered the tuning box so we will wait and see what that does, it does come with a 30 day money back guarantee if you dont like so for the price of return postage its worth the risk.

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Will you be selling your 4 Spoke airbag after you have fitted your 3 Spoke wheel?

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I never thought about it, was going to keep to replace if I got shot, but with two focus's now I could swap over, could always swap for you three spoke one :)

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Well this afternoon I sorted the boot release switch, slight cheat as I fitted a new ford unit :ph34r: , also fitted the new steering wheel. :)

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got any pics of the streering wheel

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Fitted

001_zps64988a16.jpg

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Nice! Will let you know about Airbag swop!

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looking good

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Well today the tuning box I bought arrived so I looked at the destructions that came with it and the nice colour pictures and thought No that's not where the sensor is LOL. so before we start, if you thought fitting a egr blank was a nightmare don't attempt this, you will get frustrated and end up wasting your time taking stuff off your car only to refit it again.

So anyway the common rail plug I had to disconnect on my 1.6 tdci focus is located above the starter motor and beneath the egr valve so in a really easy place to get at....NOT. first I had to remove the bracket that goes around the fuel filter by removing the five bolts, you will need a 8mm socket for this, you then lift the fuel filter and prop to one side without disconnecting the pipes.

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Now its time to locate the plug you have to disconect, the first picture below if you look at where the screw driver tip is the sensor is down there, on the second picture below I have moved the pipe holder and you can just see a bit red in the centre of the pic, this is the plug you have to disconnect.

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Now the problem here is when you put your hand down and under the pipework you can feel the underneath of the plug but you cant get your fingers on top of the plug where you need to be to release the catch on the plug to remove, so I bent a piece of metal so I could hook the catch so when I pulled the plug catch released allowing the plug to unplug. I tried for about 10 minutes without this and couldn't do it, here is a pic of said bent metal.

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It took about 2-3 attempts then it released.

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Now the tuning box has two wire plugs one male and one female and there are black not highly visible red so I first put some blue tape around plug so when I want to remove it, I will be able to see it easier.

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So of the two plugs from the tuning box one goes to the connector on the rail you have just removed the wiring plug from and the other goes into the wiring plug you have just removed, its as simple as that, you then secure it in a sheltered position using cable ties and refit what you have removed.

068_zpsfea8bd27.jpg

Took car for a spin it has more power and pulls smooth and consistent but does not give the gains the manufacturer claim, there is no smoke so for what I paid for it cant grumble and at least my clutch will last longer than it would have if it was an aggressive tuning box.

Lenny likes this

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Looks like a nightmare to fit mate,

That fuel bracket has become your best buddy in recent times lol I've got a brand new from ford metal one of it, if you ever want it, says its part of the engine cover mounting, but I never fitted it, was stable enough without it.

I'll time you with a stop watch, you must be an expert at removing it by now ;)

Have you noticed an increase in MPG ?

Also your gains would increase with a Green Cotton induction filter fitted or similar type of free flow induction,

Not sure if you had one fitted yet or not.

georgen likes this

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Looks like a nightmare to fit mate,

That fuel bracket has become your best buddy in recent times lol I've got a brand new from ford metal one of it, if you ever want it, says its part of the engine cover mounting, but I never fitted it, was stable enough without it.

I'll time you with a stop watch, you must be an expert at removing it by now ;)

Have you noticed an increase in MPG ?

Also your gains would increase with a Green Cotton induction filter fitted or similar type of free flow induction,

Not sure if you had one fitted yet or not.

Box not been on long enough to tell mate but I've complained about there exaggerated claims and there dodgy installation guide, I have told them where it is located now so should help others down the line LOL,In reply to my complaint they have asked for the serial number so watch this space, I haven't got a performance filter yet but will get one when funds open up a bit as still trying to sell megane so her focus was funded with the only spare cash I had. on the bracket front it is a mount for the cover which I dont have but as I am used to removing now and refitting only takes a minute lol

Lenny likes this

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Try resetting the ECU - that can help the performance as the ECU will have "learnt" from when the 'box was not fitted, now that the box IS fitted once the ECU is reset the ECU will set the parameters (fuelling etc) for that

Is the tuning box adjustable? does it have different settings/ maps etc? if you can turn it up you can usually get a bit more power out of it - i have simple techniques i can let you know about to set up the tuning box to optomise the power/ acceleration with the minimum amount of wasted fuel etc

As Lenny has said, the air filter often makes a noticable difference, on a turbo car it can help the engine respond quicker/ more power at low revs (especially before the turbo spools up) even a new, pattern filter (i can pick ones up for mine for £6) is better than a old, choked one,(when did you have yours last changed) and can improove MPG too

Ive been doing a lot of research on air filters recently and although the green cotton filter is expensive,(and usally more expensive than the K&N), it is better than the K&N, because 1 - the green colour means you can tell it is dirty, you can't so well on a K&N because the K&N filter material is black/ dark 2 - the green cotton filter uses a better method of bonding so there is less "bleed" onto the filter element, this, along with deeper pleats, results in a larger surface area (for a given filter size/ application), compared to a K&N or stock filter, which can increase airflow/ reduce through the filter - the K&N and green cotton use a similar type of oiled cotton filter material, it flows better than a paper filter but does not filter as well (tiny dust particles can get through, especially when the filter is new) that is why i use a stock/ pattern filter but change it every 6 months/ 6k, but i have a cool air feed in the wing that picks up a lot of dust via an opening near the front/ left wheel, once i redesign/ relocate this to behind the grille i plan to fit a green cotton filter myself at some point (remember this is all "academic" if the filter itself is not the most restrictive part of the induction system- small tubes before the filter box may be more of a "bottleneck"- in that case you may as well fit a stock or pattern paper filter and change it frequently)

the tuning box increases fuel so its important that the air is not restricted with an old/ clogged air filter

Often with a tuning box it boosts the low- end and midrange torque - the performance improvement (on a diesel) can be very deceptive - you often don't notice yourself qoing quicker instead everything else seems slower - the torque/ power curve may now be diifferent and you may be quicker changing up at lower revs - eg 3.5k (to keep it in the torque) or using a gear higher than normal (eg, for overtaking) - i agree "they" often egzaggerate? power/ torque figures but would you have bought it if it claimed (for example) a 12HP gain? (when all their competitors are making ridiculous claims and punters might buy one over another because it clains slightly more power? )

Thats a great tuning box fitting guide and you should copy it out as is and add it to the "guides" section

georgen likes this

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My air filter is a pattern one but new, I always service a car when i buy it even if its just being serviced, i am generally hard on cars but I do pamper them at service, the leon used to get £20 oil put in then dumped after 10 min running, then oil filter and long life synthetic oil put in but oil and filter changed every 6k, of course I wont go to that extreme with the focus diesel but it has got a decent oil in it. and was flushed first. dont like oiled filters as they tend to take Mafs out but do like ITG and pipercross ok too. the leon had a cold air feed and I used to find gravel in the airbox lol, with the focus 3.5 k is higher than i would normally change gear more high 2k-3k as its different with 90 bhp as opposed to 240ish bhp. :blink:, the box isnt adjustable as in past if you can turn it up you will max it out :D and as the old saying goes no smoke no poke :P. they might not do anything but you never know, I bought a german one as my last box was german and spot on so we will see what happens. :unsure:

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My air filter is a pattern one but new, I always service a car when i buy it even if its just being serviced, i am generally hard on cars but I do pamper them at service, the leon used to get £20 oil put in then dumped after 10 min running, then oil filter and long life synthetic oil put in but oil and filter changed every 6k, of course I wont go to that extreme with the focus diesel but it has got a decent oil in it. and was flushed first. dont like oiled filters as they tend to take Mafs out but do like ITG and pipercross ok too. the leon had a cold air feed and I used to find gravel in the airbox lol, with the focus 3.5 k is higher than i would normally change gear more high 2k-3k as its different with 90 bhp as opposed to 240ish bhp. :blink:, the box isnt adjustable as in past if you can turn it up you will max it out :D and as the old saying goes no smoke no poke :P. they might not do anything but you never know, I bought a german one as my last box was german and spot on so we will see what happens. :unsure:

There is some debate as to whether oiled cotton filters (Greeen Cotton, K&N etc) actually contaminate MAF sensors, K&N claim theirs do not, and it is only if they have been over-oiled (by the user, after cleaning) that this happens, (this was tested by K&N - so you can take it with a "pinch of salt") my car does not have a MAF so it does not effect me anyway

Other filters like Pipercross etc (dry foam) cannot contaminate MAF sensors with oil off the filter element, and have been found to flow better than stock paper filters, but at the expense of filtration - thier seems to be a link between filtration efficiency and flow restriction within the filter and if you want a free- flowing filter you may have to compromise filtration efficiency (smaller particles of dust get through to contaminate the engine that would not get through a stock (paper) filter)

i could not find the power/ torrque curves/ plot for the 90HP 1.6, but here is the 110HP -

http://www.mybluefin.co.uk/curves/focus16tdci110bhp.pdf

As you can see the peak power of the engine is at 4100rpm, so that is the best revs to change gear, for maximum acceleration, no point in revving it higher (than 4100rpm with the engine on the graph) "through the gears" or changing up earlier (at lower revs) (this is called "short shifting") - if you change up at 2k or 3k you are slowing the car down (unless your peak power is at 3k- which is unlikely)

You will accelerate faster if you change up on your peak power - it is nothing to do with whether you have 90, 240, or 1000hp, but at what revs peak power is made (on the engine (tdci 1.6/110) on the graph, its 4.1k)

There is lots of misinformation about things like this on the net - for example, there were some "experts" :lol: on another forum that thought they would accelerate faster if they missed out gears ("block" shifting) like 1st to 3rd to 5th, complete rubbish! :lol::lol::lol:

It probably won't surprise you if i told you ive plotted the acceleration in every gear and set the boost, and all other settings, as well as the optimum speed and revs to change gear - on mine its 3.6k, (for now- and its a "low revving" 2.0L TDDI with stock turbo & injectors) if i changed at 2 or 3k, it would slow the car down - a lot. 2 or 3k is ok for "crousing" or economy, but if you want your car to "shift" - time your changes right (changing at peak power)

georgen and Lenny like this

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I dont shift when i do because I think its the peak power, think its just getting used to diesel engines again, the tdci is a noisy bugger over 3k and at 90 bhp isnt going to set my world alight so whats the point. one thing I noticed is you class bhp as peak power but infact torque is the measurement that moves any mass from a to b, and it spikes at about 2400 rpm. bhp is nothing without torque, thats why theres diesels out there that worry some fit cars.

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Well got reply from box company today, they asked me to open it up and change settings from 4 to 3, I did this to no marked difference so I have reported back to them as asked.

here is what it looks like inside, all i need now is the complete list of settings.

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Well being bouncing a few e-mails back and forth about the tuning box, and found out, what ever one switch is on the other has to match, also each position up equates to 1.5% increase alternatively down is 1.5% aswell. apparently some cars are more/less sensitive than others so I have to play with settings and if I am still not happy they will gladly have a look at my unit for repair, replace or full refund so cant be any fairer than that.

Lenny likes this

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I've just spotted you digital volt meter built in to the battery lid mate looks good,

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I've just spotted you digital volt meter built in to the battery lid mate looks good,

Where you been Lenny, that was weeks ago LOL

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Well being bouncing a few e-mails back and forth about the tuning box, and found out, what ever one switch is on the other has to match, also each position up equates to 1.5% increase alternatively down is 1.5% aswell. apparently some cars are more/less sensitive than others so I have to play with settings and if I am still not happy they will gladly have a look at my unit for repair, replace or full refund so cant be any fairer than that.

Often, the distributors of the tuning boxes are not the manufacturers (+ English is not their 1st language) 1 box may fit several different vehicles or similar engines but with different specs (eg 90, 100, 120PS versions of the same engine) - exact models may not even have been tested (by the companies themeslves) so the tuning box makers set the boxes on a "conservative" setting and/ or rely on their customers' feedback to help them choose the right settings

With the feedback from customers being unreliable (inconsistant results due to different conditions / driving techniques)

(eg - if the engine produces 90hp at 4k, its probably less than 70Hp at 3k, and even less at 2k)

+ performance can be very subjective - you can be going slower and if feels faster and vice- versa

So the box must be set up with scientific precision -preferably on a dyno but can be set up "on track" the conditions must be the same each test and timed accurately- randomly changing the settings without testing it properly is liable to make it worse

The tuning box can be set up for optimum power , economy or a balance between the 2- if yours is the type that increases the common rail pressure, if it is turned up too high it can put the injectors/ seals under un- nessesary stress - there is a point at which the performance is "maxed out" (the "sweet spot") but the box can be adjusted for even more pressure - (putting the injectors/ seals under un-nessesary stress) - to find this point takes knowledge, patience and precision

Before you set the box up you must find the best revs/ changing points to get the most out of the engine- this is to optomise the box for best performance, but also, of course an "underpowerd" car needs every hp/ advantage, compared to a powerful one

PS - you may need the reset the ECU for any changes you make to the tuning box to take effect

georgen likes this

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Well I haven't adjusted the box away from the setting it was delivered with, and this £40 of diesel lasted 272 miles, not bad since I have kicked its puddings in a bit since finding out it has a dpf lol. I am going to drive a bit more normal for this £40 worth and see what I get.

Lenny likes this

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Well I haven't adjusted the box away from the setting it was delivered with, and this £40 of diesel lasted 272 miles, not bad since I have kicked its puddings in a bit since finding out it has a dpf lol. I am going to drive a bit more normal for this £40 worth and see what I get.

Sounds good George,

Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

FOCA and georgen like this

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Sounds good George,

Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

When it needs it mine will be getting emptied completely ;)

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