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My Mk2 Focus Estate


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#46 georgen

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:07 PM

I've just spotted you digital volt meter built in to the battery lid mate looks good,

Where you been Lenny, that was weeks ago LOL



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#47 FOCA

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:43 PM

Well being bouncing a few e-mails back and forth about the tuning box, and found out, what ever one switch is on the other has to match, also each position up equates to 1.5% increase alternatively down is 1.5% aswell. apparently some cars are more/less sensitive than others so I have to play with settings and if I am still not happy they will gladly have a look at my unit for repair, replace or full refund so cant be any fairer than that.  

Often, the distributors of the tuning boxes are not the manufacturers (+ English is not their 1st language) 1 box may fit several different vehicles or similar engines but with different specs (eg 90, 100, 120PS versions of the same engine) - exact models may not even have been tested (by the companies themeslves) so the tuning box makers set the boxes on a "conservative" setting and/ or rely on their customers' feedback to help them choose the right settings

 

With the feedback from customers being unreliable (inconsistant results due to different conditions / driving techniques)

 

(eg - if the engine produces 90hp at 4k, its probably less than 70Hp at 3k, and even less at 2k)

 

+ performance can be very subjective - you can be going slower and if feels faster and vice- versa

 

So the box must be set up with scientific precision  -preferably on a dyno but can be set up "on track"  the conditions must be the same each test and timed accurately- randomly changing the settings without testing it properly is liable to make it worse

 

The tuning box can be set up for optimum power , economy or a balance between the 2- if yours is the type that increases the common rail pressure, if it is turned up too high it can put the injectors/ seals under un- nessesary stress - there is a point at which the performance is "maxed out" (the "sweet spot") but the box can be adjusted for even more pressure - (putting the injectors/ seals under un-nessesary stress) - to find this point takes knowledge, patience and precision

 

Before you set the box up you must find the best revs/ changing points to get the most out of the engine-  this is to optomise the box for best performance,  but also, of course an "underpowerd" car needs every hp/ advantage, compared to a powerful one

 

PS - you may need the reset the ECU for any changes you make to the tuning box to take effect          



#48 georgen

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:24 AM

Well I haven't adjusted the box away from the setting it was delivered with, and this £40 of diesel lasted 272 miles, not bad since I have kicked its puddings in a bit since finding out it has a dpf lol. I am going to drive a bit more normal for this £40 worth and see what I get.



#49 Lenny

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 11:35 AM

Well I haven't adjusted the box away from the setting it was delivered with, and this £40 of diesel lasted 272 miles, not bad since I have kicked its puddings in a bit since finding out it has a dpf lol. I am going to drive a bit more normal for this £40 worth and see what I get.

Sounds good George,
Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

#50 georgen

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 12:32 PM

Sounds good George,
Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

When it needs it mine will be getting emptied completely ;)  



#51 Lenny

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 02:46 PM


When it needs it mine will be getting emptied completely ;)  


Go on ya mad fella :lol: that's hardcore right there

#52 georgen

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 05:30 PM

Not hard core just dont know which the  Cat and which the DPF so both must die when the time comes  :D

 

What have you started lol, broke the Vax out and give the seats a quick going over as they were black when I got it, first sprayed the seats with this stain remover foam from asda 99p a tin on special  ;) , then done the seats with the wet vax, 40min from start to finish cos I can keep mine and do another time  :P

 

Before

 

 

After still damp but better

 



#53 FOCA

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:30 PM

Sounds good George,
Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

+1

+  no more problems with or money needed to be spent to clean, repair, or replace the DMF anymore  



#54 b4zz

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 06:42 AM

looks like the seat came up well.

think I may have to invest in a wet vac at some point



#55 georgen

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 03:59 PM

For the quick going over I gave them I thought they would need redoing when dry, but they are spot on LOL. got a damp !Removed! going to work this morning and windscreen was all misted up but left the windows down a touch at work and lovely sunny day, so when got back in car this afternoon, was all dry. :)  



#56 Lenny

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:29 PM

For the quick going over I gave them I thought they would need redoing when dry, but they are spot on LOL. got a damp !Removed! going to work this morning and windscreen was all misted up but left the windows down a touch at work and lovely sunny day, so when got back in car this afternoon, was all dry. :)  


Jammy !Removed! :lol:

#57 georgen

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:40 PM

Jammy !Removed! :lol:

LOL, I have a headstart on you tho mate, Many moons ago I owned a valeting business so have done it once or twice before :P, must be like riding a bike  :D 

yours must be cleaner than they left the factory now tho ;)   



#58 georgen

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 12:06 PM

Well today I changed the complete thermostat housing thermostat and sensor, the reason behind this was two fold, first since buying the car the temp gauge never even gets to the quarter position, its always being half way between cold and the quarter, and secondly when I fitted the tuning box I noticed water on top of the gearbox and the tell tale red marks around the housing plus was loosing a small amount of water, so thought well on the temp front either thermostat or sensor dodgy and on the leak front the plastic housing has dis-formed causing a leak. Well Its fitted but temp still the same so I will have to have a think why its showing so cold, pipes are hot, hot air comes from heater and when you put it into test mode the needle sweeps as it should, Next stage will be to short connection out to see if gauge reads hot and ill go from there, will post a couple of pics later of process.

Heres a few pics

 

Fistly this is the place you need to look, its to the left of the battery bolted onto the side of the head.

002_zps9007b59a.jpg

 

Remove your airfilter to turbo intake pipe, also unfasten your fuel filter and put to one side still connected to its pipes but remove the wire connection. disconnect your vac pipe from the pump

Remove temp sensor wire plug and the three water pipes.

004_zpsccb9b16b.jpg

 

Now with a quarter drive 8mm socket and small extension remove the four securing bolts. there is another torxs screw hiding underneath the fastness another pipe to the unit that has to be removed, here is a pic of said screw with unit out so you can see.

007_zpsd44aa6ea.jpg

 

you can now remove the unit and clean around mounting face, I use a stanley blade for this then wipe with cloth, I then used a hose and flushed all pipes including the expansion tank.

005_zps5a0a1f8f.jpg

 

Now its reverse your actions to refit new one

008_zpsd850f5b6.jpg

010_zpsb9db22d6.jpg

 

once refitted fill with new coolant, for a 50% mix on a empty system this would be 3.5 - 4 litres.

009_zpsb93050d5.jpg

start car with heaters on hot with cap off and squeeze pipes and watch air come out of system. add mor coolant or water if the level drops below the max level. after about 5 minutes put cap on and take for a drive, when you return recheck level but remember to let it cool down before removing cap on a hot engine.



#59 Lenny

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 12:26 PM

Well today I changed the complete thermostat housing thermostat and sensor, the reason behind this was two fold, first since buying the car the temp gauge never even gets to the quarter position, its always being half way between cold and the quarter, and secondly when I fitted the tuning box I noticed water on top of the gearbox and the tell tale red marks around the housing plus was loosing a small amount of water, so thought well on the temp front either thermostat or sensor dodgy and on the leak front the plastic housing has dis-formed causing a leak. Well Its fitted but temp still the same so I will have to have a think why its showing so cold, pipes are hot, hot air comes from heater and when you put it into test mode the needle sweeps as it should, Next stage will be to short connection out to see if gauge reads hot and ill go from there, will post a couple of pics later of process.

Good to have this job done before the frost comes in mate,
May have made the seal worse

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