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2006 1.6 Tdci Elecrical Fault


mojoegoonie
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Hello guys and girls so i have a problem with my car and im hopeing one of you good people can help me get to the bottom of the problem ,ive had the car about a month now and the car seemed good till a couple of days ago.

I was driving at about 30mph and the car just cut out all the lights came on the dash and i lost all power, i pulled over and when i was trying to turn the car over nothing happened at all just all the lights were lit on the dash and the imobiliser light was flashing like crazy i couldnt get it started so i left the car and walked home.

When i got home i did a bit of reading and learned about the imobiliser codes so went back to the car and looked at the flashes and it was code 16 after giveing the key a wiggle the car started right up again.

Ive went out in the car yesterday and it cut out once but came stright back on ,then i took it out to day and it cut out for about 2 mins then came back on i got it home and now it wont start at all it doesnt even turn over which makes me think it has to be an electrical problem.

The imobiliser is still giving the same code 16 which is some thing to do with faulty wireing from PATS to ECU ? im thinking of buying a cheap code reader will it show up a code that might give more detail ? has anyone ever had this problem before?

Any help is gretly appreciated .

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ok so ive been out looking around the car and its starting up again.....very strange?

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Tbh i no nothing about this area, but are your batt terminals tight and not loosing contact over bumps etc?

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I would start with looking for a poor earth gear box to chassis chassis to engine as above battery terminals being tempi mental sounds like a loose earth to me

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ive read it can be a faulty cluster so i went to take it out and look for loose wires and guess what 2 small screw driver cracks on the cluster well looks like previous owner sold it for a reason

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have you got a spare key? if so, try the spare and see if the error occurs?

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Certainly sounds like the cluster may be related.

Have you disconnected the battery for an hour or so? has it made a difference?

if not, give it a go!

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Ok quick update when i took the cluster out i cleaned the circuit board and connectors with electrical cleaner took it out for a drive about 8 miles and it hasnt happend,

I have phoned loads of garages ,auto electricians to day and none of them are sure what it is and im not paying out yet i get my obd11 reader tomorrow,but i did phone one company who repair clusters and they seem positive its the cluster and can send me a new one for about £130.(not sure if hes saying its cluster because he sells them or hes just right ?)

i have also discovered (for any who don't already know ) you can get a few instrument cluster fault codes off the cluster by holding in the mileage reset button while turning ignition to position 2 ,mine did bring up 2 codes but i cant find any thing about them.

I will keep updating this post in the hope i find out what the problem is and it helps out someone else one day.

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what error codes did you get?

The codes displayed on the cluster are not the full story, so when you get your code reader, that will give a bigger picture.

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Ok i got my obd reader and its showing code u0073-- Ctrl Mod Comm Bus Off ,i've had a look on the net and i've seen one person saying he has replaced a few clusters on these and its solved it ,and i've seen some people saying wiring to the ecu can be shot or ecu shot. ------ !Removed! this is sounding expensive :s

Can anyone tell me were i can find the ecu? so i can check wires please,.

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Well i just phoned ford to see if they can help but apparently they don't give out information for free lol the women on the desk told me we don't give out free information and that the codes dont mean any thing and i have to book it in.

Nice to know ford like to help out there customers didn't want free information but surly i have a right to know if its something you can fix/herd off or even has been called back.

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So the ECU I believe is in the driver side wheelarch, behind the trim, but the problem is, the wiring issue could be ANYWHERE in the bonnet wiring harness. Ford recently quoted me about £500 (off the top of my head?) for a new wiring harness (wasn't necessary in the end) so that would be the bill for that. If the ECU is shot, that's the best part of a grand if not a few quid more.

Finally the cluster, that is probably the easiest and cheapest. Start by removing the cluster, and drown the circuit board in WD40 and leave it to air dry. Try reinstalling and see if this helps. If it does, Hoorah! if it doesn't... Start looking around at breakers yards, and see what they say, you could probably pick up an instrument cluster for a not too great sum, and it would be handy to start your investigations.

Unfortunately the scope of your problem has just escalated, and it really depends on what is the best for you : do you take a gamble, try and get some clusters for cheap, fit and try (maybe waste however much if thats not the problem?). Otherwise you may need to spend more if it is a wiring issue, otherwise, the alternative is to get rid of the car. It could be one of those fixes that is dirt cheap, or it could be your worst nightmare.

Having started to review your error code, I see that there are a few possibilities:

Your error code of U0073 may in fact be : U1073 which is invalid or missing engine coolant temperature. This could be part of the problem, and could be a simple thermostat / sensor issue.

It could also relate to the Braking system (stability control) and given that your car doesnt have ESP (highlighly unlikely on an LX) then the issue may be instead masked as an ABS sensor issue, the problem is though, it shouldnt cause electrical failings...

Now in relation to this, I came across this post: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/1199500-post5.html the guy cleared the DTC's and this allowed his motor to start again, so may be worth exploring before you venture into costly repairs.

Start off with this, clear the DTC's and then disconnect the battery for half hour. Reconnect and try to start the car. If the problem comes back, get your scanner out and tell us the codes that come up and we will start again. Also if the error does occur, keep your eye on the engine coolant temperature gauge on the dashboard, and watch it carefully.

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I have allready too out the cluster and i cleaned the curuit board with a proper electrical cleaning fluid (the board was very dirty) i had no choice but take the car out today and it ran fine over 40 miles and never cut out which leads me to think cluster problem.

I have also just found a post on the ask a ford engineer were someone had the same same problem and code and one engineer said hes seen a few and he changed the cluster and it sorted it,but another engineer give a different opinion.

I dont think you can use a cluster from scrappy it has to match the ecu but ive found company who repair them with 1 day turn around for £135 so i think ill go down this route next week and report back with the results.

Thanks for your help jeebowhite

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no worries :) to be fair you wouldnt get much change from that from a scrappie either so its a good place to start :)

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  • 4 years later...

I've got the same problem now too but coincidently mine happened after I blanked out the EGR and ran fine for 10 mins. But when I went to start later on in the evening it started for 15 seconds and cut out, nothing since.

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The NecroPoster strikes again!!!

Mwahahahahaaaaaaa!!!!

 

If you are getting the exact same issue (immobiliser code 16 - one flash, pause, 6 flashes) then it's likely you are suffering the common cluster fault on these.

@Tdci-Peter has an excellent and extensive guide on fixing this if you have a bit of skill with a soldering iron.

If it is related to the egr in some way then your fix may be different. Have you tried taking the blanking plate out again to see if it cures the problem?

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On 10/3/2017 at 11:37 AM, S4DNX said:

after I blanked out the EGR and ran fine for 10 mins. But when I went to start later on in the evening it started for 15 seconds and cut out, nothing since.

Symptoms of IC failure are: Odd lights like ABS, Steering, ESP coming on for no good reason; Dashes in the odometer display; Immobiliser failure with flash code 16.

It does not usually make the engine cut out once running, but this is possible.

I would check with a code reader for EGR codes. IC failure generates lots of U codes, CAN bus related ones.

For a bit more info, see:

 

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Got it running today! Removed the EGR blanking plate and got a hand pump to bring some fuel to the fuel pump and bingo! Did check the cluster connections and was perfect.

 

After speaking to my uncle who is a mechanic, certain cars cannot have the egr blanked and will cut off as mine did. He has experience this on some Renault's and also Nissan Navara's.

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Glad you got it sorted! Usually foci are ok to be blanked, no?

Edit: wait, why was your fuel pump dry after blanking an egr?

Sounds like the car was fuel starved not choked...

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9 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Glad you got it sorted! Usually foci are ok to be blanked, no?

Edit: wait, why was your fuel pump dry after blanking an egr?

Sounds like the car was fuel starved not choked...

+1

Can't see how blanking the EGR would cause fuel starvation.

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Did you disconnect any fuel pipes to fit the EGR blank?

1.6TDCi are ok to blank but you should leave it plugged in.  Might show a fault light on some models but won't stop it starting.

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5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Did you disconnect any fuel pipes to fit the EGR blank?

1.6TDCi are ok to blank but you should leave it plugged in.  Might show a fault light on some models but won't stop it starting.

Yes I unplugged the filter to access the egr valve. It's weird why it did it as I have ready many other focus done no issues but mine didn't like it.

Drove it for about 30 mins last night no problems.

 

The fuel pump being dry was something I could not work out, used a manual pump in the end that did the trick.

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16 minutes ago, S4DNX said:

Yes I unplugged the filter to access the egr valve. It's weird why it did it as I have ready many other focus done no issues but mine didn't like it.

Drove it for about 30 mins last night no problems.

 

The fuel pump being dry was something I could not work out, used a manual pump in the end that did the trick.

In the TDCi's once the system is no longer sealed/air tight the fuel tends to run back to the tank, filling the system with lots of not very useful air.

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As above, it had nothing to do with the EGR itself.  It was removing fuel pipes that caused your issue.

There's no tank pump on these so any time you disconnect a fuel pipe you need to prime the system with a hand pump.

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