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TitaniumSteve

! Guide ! Installing A Sub Box To Mk7

77 posts in this topic

I am also looking at the Pioneer TS-WX 11A. Do you think it would fit under the spare wheel?

I cant justify £100 extra for the TS-WX77A

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I am also looking at the Pioneer TS-WX 11A. Do you think it would fit under the spare wheel?

I cant justify £100 extra for the TS-WX77A

not sure but i would be a little concered with air flow and cooling if it was in the spare wheel compartment...

i thought the 77 was £140 more? i know the rrp is stupid on the 77! Im planning to put the 11 under drivers seat and just leave it there!

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couple of things, i know i haven't posted much so i hope you don't mind, with the power cable running next to the audio cable you are likely to get a slight whistling sound as you accelerate from the subwoofer. the best way to avoid it is to run the cables either on opposite sides or run one up the middle of the car and the other down the side.

is that power cable fused? if not i would get a fuse in their sharpish, no point paying out good money for a car and audio equipment and frying it when you get a voltage peak and burn out the power cable to the amplifier. as you said, it runs passed sound proofing which is quite combustible.

one last thing, why point the sub to the rear of the car? just makes the boot vibrate and makes a decent guitar riff sound crap if turned up.

what direction would you point the sub in then matey?

without it looking poo...

cheers

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Can anyone tell me wires are for the front speakers and which are the rear. I want to make sure my sub is on the front speakers as sometimes I fade sound to the front only as it gets too loud for passengers in the rear.

Hi there,

Is titaniumsteve still about?

I too would love to to know what the colour codes are for the front (4 speakers) and the rear (2 speakers) on the back of the headunit?

Anyway of getting a wiring diagram for this from anywhere? There is nothing in the manual that i can see.

Mark.

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Just a suggestion, all install I do, I run the power cable under the car, cable tie at regular inetrvals normally to the other cables running underside, then come up in the boot either through a drainage plug (hole in it, then sylcone) or drive a hole, seal and grommet.

Just need to jack up the one side!!

Think I may consider amping just the speakers and replace standard speakers...

Or the spare wheel well is a handy size...could build a sub box to fit in there or you can gt compact sub boxes...means you wouldn't lose room :)

Good guide....still don't get how you got the two speaker jacks to amp to go into the multipoint connector??? :huh:

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Right, my 12" Vibe CBR Active Sub is in my boot, I've run my audio cables driver side and my power cables passenger side! (All Good)

I'm running the sub through the rear speakers, if your going to do this i recommend doing it properly, i see where Steve is coming from and it can be taken out without anyone knowing but i can see the wires popping out all the time! and the effort to get the dash out is not worth the hassle

i have scalpeled off the plastic coating on 2mm of the wire b4 the multiblock, you dont even have to take the cd player out. just disconnect the multiblock below it. i then soldered on my converter cables (2 postive, 2 negative and a ground cable) then i put insulation/electrical tape round the joins. this way there is a solid connection, it will not come out and it will sound better.

this is how a professional fitter would do the job! you could take all off it off and all you would see is a bit of bare cable on the speaker cable, this would be covered by insulation tape and it would be back to normal.

Its been asked a couple of times now which cables are the rear speakers, the top level are positive and the bottom are negative, the rear speakers are not next to eachother on the block, they are the WHITE/BROWN AND BLUE/BROWN the other rear speaker is GREEN/WHITE AND BROWN/YELLOW

Also on my 59 Fiesta, might be different from steves but i wouldnt of thought so, there is a couple of extra cables in the multiblock next to the speaker cables, they have a 3/4 V current passing through them, im not entirely sure what these are for but leave them be! dont connect speakers too them, i think it could get ugly! use a multimeter to find these cables and steer clear :) other than that a pretty simple install, just take your time.

This job is definately worth doing its a really good upgrade!

Any questions please ask :)

Mikey

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Any pics of where you have connected stuff up? power, earth, and suchlike?

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ill take pics of it all tonight and post on, steves original place of grounding for the sub is perfect.. works a treat.

i found a cheeky hole while the bonnet was open for the power cable to go through, it then goes into the car via the main door gromet, so you cant see any cables unless you look seriously hard haha its then fed down into the door well along with the remote (battery) live cable

was my first fit (had done some speaker changes before though) and went really well! :)

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Thats idiotic!!! You have a live cable running along the passenger door on the outside, then along the side of the rear passenger!

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Thats idiotic!!! You have a live cable running along the passenger door on the outside, then along the side of the rear passenger!

beatty36 your clearly an idiot and have no idea what your going on about....

the live cable is fully insulated and fused and both ends...

live cables run all the way through the car...

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Hello there...

Do you have a link to this or any more information?

I looked on the Halfords site but could not find it.

thank you,

Mark.

Hey mate, sorry it took so long. But yeah i dont know where they are on the halfords site but if you go onto ebay its called a vibe fast plug. Really neat wee gadget. Hope this helps.

GingerFlame likes this

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beatty36 your clearly an idiot and have no idea what your going on about....

the live cable is fully insulated and fused and both ends...

live cables run all the way through the car...

Clearly, lol thinking of somthing else.

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Did you manage to get some photo's of what you were describing about part of this install.

I want to finish a list of stuff i need before i start this upgrade.

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hi , ive got an amp and bass, im wandering does it connect to the orginal ford head unit (mk4 fietsa) cheers

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i have scalpeled off the plastic coating on 2mm of the wire b4 the multiblock, you dont even have to take the cd player out. just disconnect the multiblock below it. i then soldered on my converter cables (2 postive, 2 negative and a ground cable) then i put insulation/electrical tape round the joins. this way there is a solid connection, it will not come out and it will sound better.

I'm looking at fitting an active sub, the low profile Pioneer one, into my Zetec. However, why would you make a permanent change to the Ford loom (albeit hidden) when you could get an SOT (also known as a Parrot lead) from Autoleads like this:

http://bit.ly/eAcIl0

Then you have converted the Ford loom to an ISO loom inline and you can make a custom ISO lead to take off just the outputs you need to run to the rear of the car (i.e. the rear speakers or RCAs and ignition power). All this without effecting the operation of the OEM head unit. That's what I'm going to do I think. Any reason why this is a bad idea? Is there enough room in the dash for this approach?

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Right, my 12" Vibe CBR Active Sub is in my boot, I've run my audio cables driver side and my power cables passenger side! (All Good)

I'm running the sub through the rear speakers, if your going to do this i recommend doing it properly, i see where Steve is coming from and it can be taken out without anyone knowing but i can see the wires popping out all the time! and the effort to get the dash out is not worth the hassle

i have scalpeled off the plastic coating on 2mm of the wire b4 the multiblock, you dont even have to take the cd player out. just disconnect the multiblock below it. i then soldered on my converter cables (2 postive, 2 negative and a ground cable) then i put insulation/electrical tape round the joins. this way there is a solid connection, it will not come out and it will sound better.

this is how a professional fitter would do the job! you could take all off it off and all you would see is a bit of bare cable on the speaker cable, this would be covered by insulation tape and it would be back to normal.

Its been asked a couple of times now which cables are the rear speakers, the top level are positive and the bottom are negative, the rear speakers are not next to eachother on the block, they are the WHITE/BROWN AND BLUE/BROWN the other rear speaker is GREEN/WHITE AND BROWN/YELLOW

Also on my 59 Fiesta, might be different from steves but i wouldnt of thought so, there is a couple of extra cables in the multiblock next to the speaker cables, they have a 3/4 V current passing through them, im not entirely sure what these are for but leave them be! dont connect speakers too them, i think it could get ugly! use a multimeter to find these cables and steer clear :) other than that a pretty simple install, just take your time.

This job is definately worth doing its a really good upgrade!

Any questions please ask :)

Mikey

Hey Mikey,

i've just fitted a sub to my fiesta but im getting a popping sound from one of the phono cables. Its not power or interference from the air as when you swap the connections round the interference switches to the other lead. Im stumped and dont know here to go from there. Can anyone help please? Thanks.

Kemik.

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im using one of these My link but i have connected everything up and no sound is coming from the sub, can anyone help?

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im using one of these My link but i have connected everything up and no sound is coming from the sub, can anyone help?

wow! That looks really cool, much better than using other methods..... but my only worry s the lack of a trustworthy brand.

But back to your problem. You will need to give a bit more detail.... first off, is your amp turning on? Fuses all connected and ok?

If you're amp's power light is coming on, then it can only really be between the head units RCA's, or the wiring to sub.... maybe headunit settings? checked the bias goes to rear as well as front? If you don't have the option of front and rear bias (which some Fez's don't) then that could be your issue if the unit is only outputting front signal.... I think Ford can update the cars software to fix this so no big deal I don't think.

Danny

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yer they are so simple just plug in and play but not sure if they actually work :P

to your questions the light in the amp is on and fuses are good. i have tryed changing the earth and making a better connection to the sub from the amp but still nothing. do you think the problem will be with the rca's?

Also im a bit confused, do you have to conect the amp to the rear speakers?

cheers

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if the amp is on then you definitely have no problems with your earth, live or remote cables.

I've just done some reading up on this, after googling the serial number of it.... and it turns out those RCA's are for input. E.g. get a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable and plug in your iPod.

That's the reason you're getting no sound, coz they're not outputting anything ;)

You're gonna need to get a couple of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLI-Line-Level-Car-Rear-Speaker-Wire-RCA-Converter-/140508487826?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item20b6f56092#ht_3040wt_982

and plug them into the rear speakers wires. I just linked first set I found with a reputable name, but do a search for RCA Line Converter and see what you find.

Danny

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top man cheers for that think ill prob pop to halfords cos i know they sell them.

thanks for the help hopefully ill have it up and running tomorrow :)

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Nice Guide Mate cool.gif

will help lots of people

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finally got my sub going, when you have it all conected you apreciate how good this guide is!

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Hello I am also working with a subwoofer for my ford fiesta MK7 of 2011 I've done all the steps that can be found here onshow your topic, I have only 1 problem and that is the remote, you can help me sometimes? by easy to explain exactly where he should sit or with photographs to

Thank you

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