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Anti Freeze & Fuel Filter


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#1 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 09:56 PM

 Hi, I'm about to service my car(51 Plate Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec), I've got my oil(http://www.eurocarpa...fd39a8c3), oil filter(http://www.eurocarpa...b098fc63)ordered( I have a K&N air filter), but I want to change the fuel filter as the car hasn't been used in quite some time(I've started in every so often and made sure the clutch was depressed), but I can't remember which version of the filter I need. I did have the part code written down but I've lost it while I was moving.

 

 Now the other thing I'm wanting to do is change the coolant since I'm not sure when it was last done, I've been looking at this stuff, is it good enough quality and is 1L enough as I also can't remember what ratio you need to mix to.

http://www.eurocarpa...f2aaa7ed

 

 Do you think it is a good idea to change the sparks or do they not deteriorate when not used?

 

 Thanks in advance

 

 P.S. Long time since I last posted. 



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#2 FOCA

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:51 PM

  • Firstly you will need a lot more than 1 litre of anti- freeze/ coolant - it is either 50-50 anti-freeze/ distilled water (not tap water) or 100% (pre mixed- no water is to be added)  also - check that you have the correct stuff - you get 2 main types organic and non - organic   - you will probably need several litres - (check this) -
  •  
  • its a good idea to change the spark plugs - Ford or "quality" plugs are best - you may need to "gap" them if they are not pre - gapped
  •  
  • is the K&N filter a "cone" type or a panel filter that fits in the stock airbox? -
  •  
  • how long has the car been sitting - the fuel can go stale
  •  
  •                                                                                                                                                                                                       


#3 Stoney871

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:03 AM

I'd also change the pollen filter underneath the scuttle panel at the base of the windscreen, take care when refitting though as the seals can become pinched and lead to water ingress.

#4 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 01:19 PM

 The K&N is a panel filter, I already have the degreaser/cleaner and the oil. Is this the right stuff(distilled water)http://www.halfords....tegoryId_255205? I'm not sure what type of anti freeze that is as they have not got a spec sheet listed on the site and can't find a manufacturers site. I'm not sure which plugs to go for, there are two Bosch ones listed but does not make it clear what the difference is.http://www.eurocarpa...com/spark-plugs

 

 This is what it says about the anti freeze

"TRIPLE QX Red Antifreeze/Coolant 5Ltr

Our High quality Red Antifreeze and Coolant has a powerful formula with 5 years protection for all seasons. It is suitable for any vehicle currently using Redantifreeze / coolant and meets GL12+ Standard. recommended by Car Mechanics Magazine who rated it on potency, heat capacity, versatility and value

  • Triple QX Red Concentrate Antifreeze is an extended life, ethylene glycol antifreeze/coolant providing effective heat transfer and all climates, year round performance meeting BS6580. It contains Organic Acid Inhibitor technology and is free from nitrates,"

 The fuel has been in it about a year, but have less than a eighth of a tank(according to the fuel gauge) so I'm going to be sticking in 30-40 quid of fuel along with some redex.



#5 johnH

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 04:48 PM

One way to tell is check the colour of the coolant...either red or blue.

#6 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 05:43 PM

One way to tell is check the colour of the coolant...either red or blue.

 Do you mean if it's organic or non organic? The stuff in the car at the moment is a orangy red colour so I'm assuming it's the motorcraft super 2000.



#7 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 08:14 PM

 Ok had to give up tonight as I'm having a nightmare refilling the system to flush. I tried flushing by filling through expansion tank, but got worried as the engine was getting hot and temp gauge going up, but the hoses to the radiator were not and the water in the expansion tank was cold. So looked in the Haynes manual and it says about filling the 1.6 from the heater hose at the back of the engine, but I'm having trouble getting the clamp of as it's one of those annoying ones you have to pinch with pliers and the best part is some wise guys fitted it so the bit you need to pinch is facing down slightly. Can any of you help me out and explain to me why the 1.6 says it needs to be filled in this manner or if I just did something wrong when trying to flush through the expansion tank?



#8 FOCA

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 09:56 PM

You have to follow the instructions to the letter - otherwise the system has not been flushed properly (so large parts of the system are full of old fluid) or the system is full of air ("air locks")

 

The clip may have been done from under the car when it was on ramps  

  

The expansion tank is often "seperate" from the main system (like a trunk line or an "appendix" )

 

The way the cooling system works is the waterpump (that turns all the time the engine is running proportional to the engine speed)  fills the engine with "cooled" or "temprature controlled" water, which circulates round a "water jacket" (which encloses the block and head) the engine combustion heats up the water - it comes out at the top (usually at one end of the head) here, it can turn 2 ways - one way it goes to the heater matrix, under the engine and back to the pump (usually through small diameter hoses eg - 19mm) 

 

(so this is the flow untill the thermostat opens)

 

The other way is blocked by a thermostat, untill the thermostat opens at about the engines operating temp, then, the flow hoes through the larger hoses - through the radiator (which cools the water) then back to the pump

 

Because the water has gone through the radiator, it lowers the temp, once it has dropped to a certain temp, the thermostat closes, diverting the water away from the radiator, thus, the temprature is controlled

 

So untill the thermostat opens (from the 1st cold start of the day) the large radiator hoses will be cool (and other parts may be hot) - the hoses coming out of the radiator may be a lot cooler than the ones going in (thats the radiator doing its job)  

 

On a cold day, (with the heater on taking the heat out of the system) the engine may not heat up fully or the thermostat open, ditto if the engine is just "ticking over"

 

To bleed the system, the thermostat(/s) must open, (there may be more than one) the expansion tank water level can drop when this happens (as other parts of the system fill up with water and the air is expelled)

 

The reason the water is pressurized is to increase the boiling point (the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure is 100 degrees C - under pressure, it is higher)

 

The fan operating temp is usually a few degrees higher than the thermostat opening temp, (so on many cars, it hardly comes on) above 40mph, the fan is not nessesary because there is sufficient flow through the radiator  (so often ommited on race cars)

 

The heat sensor (that goes to the engine control unit) may be in the head (so it reads the actual head temp - not the water temp) this has the advantage if the water runs dry the ECU can shut down the engine - the ECU also uses this temp for fuel/ air ratios, when the engine is warming up etc

 

There may be additional thermostats (ie - for the oil cooler) but the basic system (mechanical watrpump, thermostat & radiator)has been around for 100 years, some more advanced cars now have electronically controlled electric waterpumps for better performance, economy, faster warm up, with less engine wear and less emmissions (eg Golf) - the Preus evenhas a insulated chamber (like a thermos flask) to keep the water warm when sitting idle after a start  

 

The old type of anti-freeze had to be changed every 2 years, and is poisonous to plants/ animals - it outperforms the other stuff, with a lower freezing point and higher boiling point & thermal conductivity- it can be used with white metals (brass and copper) the modern stuff OAT - "organic antifreeze technology" cannot - the modern stuff can last 5-10years, it is normally associated with red/ pink color, and the old stuff with blue color, but they may be dyed any colour - the 2 types cannot be mixed  

 

With all this information it will help you understand what is going on wuth your cooling system - you would be amazed who does not understand this stuff (that should)



#9 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 10:14 PM

 Ok, I've got 2 hours in the morning to get this done, as it's booked for an MOT( I didn't have this trouble with my mates Corsa, just filled through expansion tank and self bleed), so let me try and make a quick list to see if I have this correct.

 

  •  I need to get the heater hose off
  • Fill through heater hose till it comes out of engine block(according to Haynes manual) then refit hose
  • Then fill expansion tank?


#10 FOCA

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 10:28 PM

If you are in a hurry don't bother with the hose -  just fill up the expansion tank to the "high" level,(never higher) then run the car untill its warmed up/ the thermostat/s open (once warmed up/ the thermostats open it should be self bleeding) and top it up if nessesary - take coolant with you and check the level again after you have driven down for the MOT (keep an eye on the temp and stop immediately and recheck the coolant level if the temp goes up) -  let them know you just refilled it/ to keep an eye on the level  



#11 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 10:43 PM

 Thing was tonight when I put water in it to flush it, I left it for around 10-15 minutes and the gauge had gone up to about half way and the heater was blowing out hot air, but the radiator hoses were not warm, which concerned( I didn't want to be overheating the engine do to no water going though it) me so I quickly switched off and used a cloth to remove expansion tank cap and the water in there was stone cold  :unsure:

 

 To be honest I feel a bit of a ****, I had everything else done, fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter, spark plugs, pollen filter all the main stuff to get it though the MOT, but no that wasn't good enough for Mr Smart **** :oops:



#12 FOCA

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 11:14 PM

Good luck with the MOT



#13 artscot79

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 03:46 PM

the hoses wont get hot if you have the heater on hot as well run the car up to temp till the hoses get hot then switch the heater on



#14 HeadShoT2009

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 06:13 PM

 I got it done. Failed for a front light and it being incorrectly aligned, but they sorted it for £20ish. But got some advisories 2 which are relatively easy exhaust mounts corroded and one of the anti roll bar links gaiters. But the other thing is the break lines which they have said are slightly corroded. But last March I had (this is quoted of the recipe) the N/S/F & O/S/F Flexi Brake hoses and manufacture & fit N/S/R copper brake pipe. 

 

 Have these guys ripped me off or are the brake pipes Halfords have said are slightly corroded different ones? But any hey I'm ok for now.



#15 FOCA

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 06:28 PM

Good that you got it done, thats the main thing.  

 

MOTs are often "nit picking" over things and its getting tighter, its amazing how much corrosion you can pick up in the UK over the winter with our salted roads, but  they often "nit pick" on things thy can make money on (funny that)



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