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Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise


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#16 FOCA

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 01:34 AM

I like the plan of having the audio on a desperate circuit,
And I plan to have a kill switch hidden somewhere too,

I've found some soundproof speaker enclosures available in various sizes that may suit the rear 6.5" speakers,
You said previously in the plan that some MDF enclosures around the rear 6.5" speakers would help them aswell as prevent noise contamination from the sub,
Well I found these, would be rights than MDF and a straight fit.
. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

If they don't work, I can give them to Vicki for flower pots :lol:

This battery's you linked look great, I'm sure they are very expensive though,
I did find some braile light 18kg I think,
Car battery says its suitable for boo install and doesn't give off gasses or leak acid,
Costs around 180 pounds, and says it will last 7-8 years
S I reckon its worth that price f it lasts that long and can be fitted inside the car then it should be good.

The enclosures look good - a good find and a neat solution -

 

the actual internal volume of the enclosures looks small though, so it could mean the 6" cones don't have enough room to "breathe", the fact that they are only being used as midrange may mean thats ok though (as the cone excursion won't be as large as a bass speaker) but mabee go one size bigger on the enclosure size for more internal volume, and add some acoustic wadding/ foam to the bottom of the enclosure to help stop the out-of-phase sound energy from the rear of the speaker "rattling about" the enclosure to to find its way back through the cone (thinking aloud i suppose they could be vented to the cabin/ not the boot)

 

A good battery is a must for an ICE install and with it being close to the amp i think it would work well and negate the need for a capacitor - if it was in the middle far-forward in the boot it will probably help the balance (and traction on a RWD car) - i think it would be a neat addition    



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#17 FOCA

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 02:48 AM

Thanks foca,
Last message you posted got a bit tangled with the quote,
I've edited the quote to only contain your post but I don't have moderation of this forum section,
So I can't edit your post to reflect the quote,
However you can edit it yourself and copy the section I've quoted above,

Anyways back to topic,

So its like this for the rear speakers.

Headunit ---- X over ----- Amp ---- each rear speaker

Then the front speakers will be fed directly from the head unit yes?

The front of the Levin has stock tweerers inside the wing mirror corresponding covers,
So I'd link to fit a set of 6" component speakers up front with inline crossovers to power the tweeters.

I wouldn't bother with tweeters in the back,
If I could get the rear 6" speakers to be concentric for the rear then the sub would provide sufficient base,

Am I correct so far?

I'd prefer not to have tweeters in the back because I don't want to draw the sound focus away from the front,
I'd like to keep vocal and high up front and the lower sounds coming from the rear, backing up the front.
Am I correct on that idea ?

Spot on with the "audio chain" for the rears. if the head unit did not have seperate pre outs and power-amp ins (for the 4 power amps you would normally get in a powered head unit, f(ront, R+L, and rear R+L) then the (speaker) output (from the head unit) that would normally go to the front speakers would go to the (front) tweeters, and the output that would normally go to the rear speakers would go to the front 6" speakers - this is not a problem but the front/rear fader control would just balance the 6"/tweeters in the front (if you follow) you could add an extra "rear volume control" seperate from the head unit to work as a front/ rear fader , the "overall" voume control would act as normal, turning all speakers up/ down, any EQ built into the head unit would act on all channels/ amps/ speakers  

 

the tweeters would need passive x-overs for the front, and the 6" fronts may need passive hi-cut/ low pass filters/ x-overs, - it would be nice to have infrasonic filters on the 6", - this would increase the headroom/ power handling - they would have to be passive (between the amp and speaker) -  with seperate amps for the front as well (or seperate pre/ power connections on the head unit) - active x-overs could be used, with better power/ control etc (but more compexity/ expense) - using all 4 amps in the head unit is a good, neat compromise though   



The sub that you have mate,
Is it designed for automotive installation ?
And with the X-overs I'll still only need the one amplifier ?

 

Yes, one 4-channel amp with 2 of the channels "bridgeable" (tied together) to end up with 3 channels, one high-power for the sub, and 2 smaller ones for the 6" rears, i might think of them as 4 "amps" in one "box" - and think of the head unit as having 4 "amps" inside it

 

The 8" "sub" i have was not designed for automotive applications, there are advantages and disadvantages in this - the disadvantages are -

1-  it looks "industrial" / basic, it is not "styled" in any way and looks "old fashioned" to the untrained eye - the technology is inside it (as you say they will be behind the grilles, though)

 

2 the impedance/ power handling is set-up for massive "pro" mains-powered amps - they are eight ohms - car speakers are normally 4- ohms or less the car amp will have to be carefully chosen to drive it (and the 2 6", if they are similar) with serious power into 8 ohms (i think its do-able with a bit of "tweaking")  

 

3 weight - 3 kilos is quite heavy for a "little" 8" speaker (see "advantages" )

 

Advantages -

1 - the little 8" speaker has a massive magnet on it - as big as some 12" or 15" speakers, - the 8* speaker can outperform many 12" or 15" speakers though - in terms of power handling/ output - so is lighter than the equivelant 12" or 15" sub (epecially without having a cabinet)

 

2 massive power handling - the speaker has things like a vented,  large diameter voice coil, using special techniques/ technology, it has a cobalt magnet and is electrically a lot tougher than an automotive speaker -  it can take a real "thrashing" and is tested to twice its rated power - the power figures are "true" and not eggzagerated like car speakers are

 

3 - efficiency - the speaker is very efficient, especially compared to an automotive speaker - if 1 watt is applied, it produces 94dB - at one meter - this will help when choosing an amp too, and help offset the 8-ohm impedance

 

4 - they were designed for PA systems for bands, nightclubs, djs etc - regular car use will hardly "stress" them           



#18 Lenny

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 08:09 AM

The enclosures look good - a good find and a neat solution -
 
the actual internal volume of the enclosures looks small though, so it could mean the 6" cones don't have enough room to "breathe", the fact that they are only being used as midrange may mean thats ok though (as the cone excursion won't be as large as a bass speaker) but mabee go one size bigger on the enclosure size for more internal volume, and add some acoustic wadding/ foam to the bottom of the enclosure to help stop the out-of-phase sound energy from the rear of the speaker "rattling about" the enclosure to to find its way back through the cone (thinking aloud i suppose they could be vented to the cabin/ not the boot)
 
A good battery is a must for an ICE install and with it being close to the amp i think it would work well and negate the need for a capacitor - if it was in the middle far-forward in the boot it will probably help the balance (and traction on a RWD car) - i think it would be a neat addition    

I meant to get back to you sooner mate,
:lol: the morning you wrote the above post I was in the middle of reading it when "ding dong" followed swiftly by a "buff, buff, buff" rap on the door,
It was the post man requiring a signature for one set of 6.5" Boom Mat's

I've only purchased one set for 6.5" for the moment,
I figured if there not good enough for the rear to protect from the sub, then i can fit them in the front doors to shelter the speakers there.

Here's what they are like,

IMG_20130929_090955_zpsb0eb5dc2.jpg

IMG_20130929_091019_zps95916b3c.jpg

Says they measure 7" wide X 7" High X 3.5" Deep

They feel like polystyrene but they are soft like rubber to move around and spring back to shape when compressed,
They weigh practically nothing aswell,

IMG_20130929_091052_zpsd7918e09.jpg

IMG_20130929_091113_zps43f0356b.jpg

IMG_20130929_091149_zps7645ec22.jpg

IMG_20130929_091113_zps43f0356b.jpg

If they work for sheltering the rears from the neighbouring 8" sub when fitted,
Then I'll purchase a second set for the front doors.

#19 FOCA

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

I took pictures of the 8" speaker -

 

high power 8 inch speaker - 400x600 front 001.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker 400x600 front side 002.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker- 400x600 back 003.jpg

 

The speaker wiegs 3kgs, it has a 2" voice coil (air cooled with a vent on the back of the huge ferrite magnet)  the voice coil is aluminium /polymide, the basket is heavy duty steel

 

The magnet, voice coul is bigger than those found on many 12" or 15" speakers

 

the effeciency is 95db (1 watt at one meter) and it is eight ohms - it has a huge power handling for an 8" speaker (it was the most powerful i could find this size when i built the speakers - 450w )  

 

 

I have hardware / bits like heavy- duty speaker cable, pro-grade audio cable, acoustic foam etc that might be useful to you - and some electronic components like passive infrasonic/ high pass ("subsonic") filters you could use for your front door speakers

 

I may also have sourced a suitable amp for the sub/ rear speakers (online, i don't have it) and will be getting the full amp specs soon   



#20 Lenny

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:04 PM

I took pictures of the 8" speaker -
 
attachicon.gifhigh power 8 inch speaker - 400x600 front 001.jpg
 
attachicon.gifhigh power 8 inch speaker 400x600 front side 002.jpg
 
attachicon.gifhigh power 8 inch speaker- 400x600 back 003.jpg
 
The speaker wiegs 3kgs, it has a 2" voice coil (air cooled with a vent on the back of the huge ferrite magnet)  the voice coil is aluminium /polymide, the basket is heavy duty steel
 
The magnet, voice coul is bigger than those found on many 12" or 15" speakers
 
the effeciency is 95db (1 watt at one meter) and it is eight ohms - it has a huge power handling for an 8" speaker (it was the most powerful i could find this size when i built the speakers - 450w )  
 
 
I have hardware / bits like heavy- duty speaker cable, pro-grade audio cable, acoustic foam etc that might be useful to you - and some electronic components like passive infrasonic/ high pass ("subsonic") filters you could use for your front door speakers
 
I may also have sourced a suitable amp for the sub/ rear speakers (online, i don't have it) and will be getting the full amp specs soon   

Thanks foca,
I'll defo take the sub off you next month mate email me details of price,
I plan to purchase new component speakers for the front and 6.5" singles for the rear,
I'd appreciate it if you could recommend a new amp online to power the speakers and you sub,

I'll be able to post more detailed pictures of the car boot space in three weeks time when I collect it,

Here it is on the left,
But different alloys on it now,

5204a35e-a360-4c3d-812d-0c1e9e3bb3ee_zps

#21 FOCA

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:16 PM

No worries - that will be some ice setup when its fitted!

 

I like it in the black - suits it (more "menacing")(i know you wanted white)

 

i see you have a new avatar - thats not a diesel engine :lol:



#22 Lenny

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:37 PM

No worries - that will be some ice setup when its fitted!
 
I like it in the black - suits it (more "menacing")(i know you wanted white)
 
i see you have a new avatar - thats not a diesel engine :lol:

:) the black is growing on me mate,
Easier to look after I suppose, but the engine is 100% and speakers were untouched,
Also has a Clifford G5 alarm fitted,
So the appeal was high,
I've paid half off it so collection soon,
The engine in the aviator is a Toyota 4AGE 20 valve twin can engine also known as a black top.

Exact engine that's in the Levin,
I've got more pictures of it on email, I'll get them up tomorrow,
Looking forward to fitting the speaker system with amp,
I'm thinking jbl components up front and a dounle din pioneer head unit?

#23 FOCA

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 05:39 PM

:) the black is growing on me mate,
Easier to look after I suppose, but the engine is 100% and speakers were untouched,
Also has a Clifford G5 alarm fitted,
So the appeal was high,
I've paid half off it so collection soon,
The engine in the aviator is a Toyota 4AGE 20 valve twin can engine also known as a black top.

Exact engine that's in the Levin,
I've got more pictures of it on email, I'll get them up tomorrow,
Looking forward to fitting the speaker system with amp,
I'm thinking jbl components up front and a dounle din pioneer head unit?

Head unit -

 

Ive used Pioneer pro equipment, like decks, etc and rate them, but it was a head unit like this i was considering for myself -

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_8776wt_1141

 

 

It has a dvd with fill HD 1080p output, touch screen, SD card,. USB port and i-pod connectivity (with lead included, i think) this one has GPS built into it and you can choose the display color and the screen "opening" logo  (eg "Ford"/ "Toyota")

 

it also has a reversing camera input (+ "guide lines") with auto switching when reverse is selected, it has an additional video input and output (could be for rear headrest monitors etc) - it could be possibkle to hook up a rear recording device as well

 

+ bluetooth with phone book/ call history

 

+ FM/ AM with RDS (so its "fully loaded" - the only significant thing missing is a DAB radio)  

 

Some of these have different specs - some do not have GPS, or the GPS is a cost-option  

 

Some have amps (can power speakers directly without extrenal amps) built in,(which would be mor convenient for many) this one does not, which makes it more suitable for those that want to install a high-end ICE system, (eg - you) with the line- outs it means a high end amp selected to match the speakers can be used and/or an active x-over, with more power/ control (eg - you are not "stuck" with the head units built-in (low power) amps (typically 20 to 50w per channel) )

 

+ the front/ rear fader control will work as intended and active x-overs/ filters etc instead of passive in the front speakers 

 

Front speakers -

 

Jbl is a top make, but the car speakers i looked at were very inefficient compared to the pro speakers so the fronts would need more power than the backs just to be as loud - then at higher volume levels the fronts will start to distort (as the amp starts to clip) long before the backs do - so it may be better to have pro- audio speakers in the front doors as well, to match the back/ to achieve a more "balanced" system, (acoustically as well as sound level/ power handling)

 

The pro-audio speakers come with more technical data (including things like frequency response, and detailed tech data etc) and are genarally a much higher efficiency, power handling etc and are surprisingly affordable considering the spec

 

typical spls / db graph with high power/ high efficency drive units -

jbl gto938       450w 8"

6x9 100w       component sub    

94db               95db   1 watt (rms, at 1 meter) (8" speaker ) doubling the power makes a 3db increase -

97db               98db   2 w

100db             101db  4w

103db             104db  8w

106db             107db  16w

109db             110db  32w

112db             113db  64w

115db*            116db  128w

---------            119db  256w

 

*exeeds rated power (100w)

 

jbl gto938 -

 

http://car-speakers-...ers-review.html

 

so the jbl with a (very high for a car speaker) 94db efficiency but with only 100w powe handling is less than 1/2 as loud as the 8" 450w at full power

 

so, yes, the speaker is capable of producing 119db at 256w, but at a mere 4watts its producing 101db, putting less strain on the amps and cars' electrical system, - it would be very hard for an "ordinary" car speaker to keep up with that, it is difficult to design speakers with a high efficiency and a high power handling -  

 

db calculator -

 

http://myhometheater...calculator.html

 

 

jbl gto609c - 90w/ 92db 3 ohm 6-1/2" speaker -

 

http://caraudiosecur...m-270w-speakers

 

jbl gto range -

 

http://uk.jbl.com/tl...s (English).pdf

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 ,



#24 Lenny

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 08:34 AM

Head unit -
 
Ive used Pioneer pro equipment, like decks, etc and rate them, but it was a head unit like this i was considering for myself -
 
http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_8776wt_1141
 
 
It has a dvd with fill HD 1080p output, touch screen, SD card,. USB port and i-pod connectivity (with lead included, i think) this one has GPS built into it and you can choose the display color and the screen "opening" logo  (eg "Ford"/ "Toyota")
 
it also has a reversing camera input (+ "guide lines") with auto switching when reverse is selected, it has an additional video input and output (could be for rear headrest monitors etc) - it could be possibkle to hook up a rear recording device as well
 
+ bluetooth with phone book/ call history
 
+ FM/ AM with RDS (so its "fully loaded" - the only significant thing missing is a DAB radio)  
 
Some of these have different specs - some do not have GPS, or the GPS is a cost-option  
 
Some have amps (can power speakers directly without extrenal amps) built in,(which would be mor convenient for many) this one does not, which makes it more suitable for those that want to install a high-end ICE system, (eg - you) with the line- outs it means a high end amp selected to match the speakers can be used and/or an active x-over, with more power/ control (eg - you are not "stuck" with the head units built-in (low power) amps (typically 20 to 50w per channel) )
 
+ the front/ rear fader control will work as intended and active x-overs/ filters etc instead of passive in the front speakers 
 
Front speakers -
 
Jbl is a top make, but the car speakers i looked at were very inefficient compared to the pro speakers so the fronts would need more power than the backs just to be as loud - then at higher volume levels the fronts will start to distort (as the amp starts to clip) long before the backs do - so it may be better to have pro- audio speakers in the front doors as well, to match the back/ to achieve a more "balanced" system, (acoustically as well as sound level/ power handling)
 
The pro-audio speakers come with more technical data (including things like frequency response, and detailed tech data etc) and are genarally a much higher efficiency, power handling etc and are surprisingly affordable considering the spec
 
typical spls / db graph with high power/ high efficency drive units -
jbl gto938       450w 8"
6x9 100w       component sub    
94db               95db   1 watt (rms, at 1 meter) (8" speaker ) doubling the power makes a 3db increase -
97db               98db   2 w
100db             101db  4w
103db             104db  8w
106db             107db  16w
109db             110db  32w
112db             113db  64w
115db*            116db  128w
---------            119db  256w
 
*exeeds rated power (100w)
 
jbl gto938 -
 
http://car-speakers-...ers-review.html
 
so the jbl with a (very high for a car speaker) 94db efficiency but with only 100w powe handling is less than 1/2 as loud as the 8" 450w at full power
 
so, yes, the speaker is capable of producing 119db at 256w, but at a mere 4watts its producing 101db, putting less strain on the amps and cars' electrical system, - it would be very hard for an "ordinary" car speaker to keep up with that, it is difficult to design speakers with a high efficiency and a high power handling -  
 
db calculator -
 
http://myhometheater...calculator.html
 
 
jbl gto609c - 90w/ 92db 3 ohm 6-1/2" speaker -
 
http://caraudiosecur...m-270w-speakers
 
jbl gto range -
 
http://uk.jbl.com/tl...s (English).pdf
 
 ,

Great information thanks very much,
The stereo you linked looks great, I've been reading about them and thinking,
If I was to purchase a Bluetooth for the car on its own I'd choose a parrot system so that would be 200 euro
I've got a TomTom in the focus but it needs to stay there encase of emergency etc. Its good to have it equipped,
So I'd need to purchase one for the Levin if I was purchasing one I'd choose s TomTom would be another 200 euro

And purchasing a stereo I'd like one with an aux port and reverse camera would be nice, I'd be looking to spend around 400
So getting all of the above built in to one stereo from eBay will save me around 300 euro

I've had a look at pro audio speakers online mate and I hear what your saying,
They are more efficient but I'd prefer to fit some car speakers in there like JBL or maybe clarion,
I've decided to keep the standard body kit on the car so that has saved me some money that I can turn around on the audio,
I don't mind working an extra few weeks for it,
I'd be looking at a set of these for the front
. http://www.caraudiod...wer-165kr2.html
I'd like advise on purchasing something similar in 6" or 6.5" non components for the rear,
Your 8" sub
And also an amp to power it and the rears,

#25 Lenny

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 08:39 AM

Getting back to the battery relocation and difference between light weight ones etc.

I've found a company in the uk called fensport,
http://www.fensport....Category_6/4148
The supply various parts for the Levin, one perticular being a light weight battery, says there 300 exc. Vat but considering the spec, if it was 100% capable of performing just like a standard battery I'd purchase one.

Here's what they say:
Evo 2, Racecar Battery 1.6 kgs
16 Cell, Lithium Ion
Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery
Up to 35 lbs Lighter than the stock battery you are replacing!
Weight 1.6kg (3.5 lbs)
Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions
Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA
Completely dry technology so batteries can be mounted
in any direction
Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped
Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc
Tested extensively by professional race teams
Impact and water resistant
Works with the original equipment charging system
No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Specifications:-
Dimensions : 122MM (L) x 86MM (W) x 148MM (H)
Negative Terminal Location: Left
Terminals 6mm female:- (Optional terminals in accessories)
Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
Amperage:- 28 Pb-eq A/H
Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
Charger Time: 15 minutes at 2A
Warranty: Covered by an industry leading 3 year warranty.

IMG_20131005_092202_zpsfff26b6f.jpg

IMG_20131005_092004_zps71bba4d5.jpg

#26 FOCA

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 12:14 PM

Getting back to the battery relocation and difference between light weight ones etc.

I've found a company in the uk called fensport,
http://www.fensport....Category_6/4148
The supply various parts for the Levin, one perticular being a light weight battery, says there 300 exc. Vat but considering the spec, if it was 100% capable of performing just like a standard battery I'd purchase one.

Here's what they say:
Evo 2, Racecar Battery 1.6 kgs
16 Cell, Lithium Ion
Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery
Up to 35 lbs Lighter than the stock battery you are replacing!
Weight 1.6kg (3.5 lbs)
Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions
Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA
Completely dry technology so batteries can be mounted
in any direction
Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped
Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc
Tested extensively by professional race teams
Impact and water resistant
Works with the original equipment charging system
No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Specifications:-
Dimensions : 122MM (L) x 86MM (W) x 148MM (H)
Negative Terminal Location: Left
Terminals 6mm female:- (Optional terminals in accessories)
Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
Amperage:- 28 Pb-eq A/H
Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
Charger Time: 15 minutes at 2A
Warranty: Covered by an industry leading 3 year warranty.

IMG_20131005_092202_zpsfff26b6f.jpg

IMG_20131005_092004_zps71bba4d5.jpg

The racing battery is very light but is it powerful enough for a road car - at 28AH its fine for a stripped out race car (no stereo or accessories) - it might be borderline for getting you through the winter (you must include the extra load of the ICE system and any other additional loads on the electrical system- so it may neen a (slightly) higher capacity than the stock battery)

 

The one i was looking at was about 40Ah (36AH), it was a (little) bit heavier at (just over)  2kgs, but cost about the same at £300 (350 dollars) - i will see if i can find links/ pictures data for it - it uses the same technology as that one (L-lion) so its sealed/ does not need vented etc - apart from the cost i have a problem on the Ford - the high voltage of the smart charge system exeeds the max votage the battery can take - this may not be a problem on your Levin

 

36AH 540 cold cranking amps (same cca as the one fitted to my 2.0L diesel Mondeo)

charging requires 13.2v at idle and maximum of 15.2v (not to be exeeded)

 

2.25kgs -  350 dollars -

 

http://shoraipower.c...x36a3-bs12-p126



#27 Lenny

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 12:32 PM

The racing battery is very light but is it powerful enough for a road car - at 28AH its fine for a stripped out race car (no stereo or accessories) - it might be borderline for getting you through the winter (you must include the extra load of the ICE system and any other additional loads on the electrical system- so it may neen a (slightly) higher capacity than the stock battery)
 
The one i was looking at was about 40AH, it was a (little) bit heavier at 2kgs, but cost about the same (£300) - i will see if i can find links/ pictures data for it - it uses the same technology as that one (L-lion) so its sealed/ does not need vented etc - apart from the cost i have a problem on the Ford - the high voltage of the smart charge system exeeds the max votage the battery can take - this may not be a problem on your Levin

Thanks mate,
Sorry to read of the difficulty's and hopefully there is a way around this for both of us,
I'm off to work now, I'll catch up later lol
Joys of purchasing car working 6 days a week until purchase date :rolleyes:

#28 FOCA

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 02:25 PM

Thanks mate,
Sorry to read of the difficulty's and hopefully there is a way around this for both of us,
I'm off to work now, I'll catch up later lol
Joys of purchasing car working 6 days a week until purchase date :rolleyes:

350 dollars works out at just about 220 pounds GPB (approx 260 euros ) so the Shorai 2.2kg battery is more affordable than i expected

 

The 15.2v may may not be a problem on the Levin if it does not have a smart charge system, im working on fixing this on the Ford  

 

When would you like the 8" speaker?



#29 Lenny

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:43 PM

350 dollars works out at just about 220 pounds GPB (approx 260 euros ) so the Shorai 2.2kg battery is more affordable than i expected
 
The 15.2v may may not be a problem on the Levin if it does not have a smart charge system, im working on fixing this on the Ford  
 
When would you like the 8" speaker?

Say the 14th November I'll purchase the sub from you mate,
How much
And check out parcel2go.com for a range of prices on shipping,

How would I know if Levin has smart charge?
I doubt it does though as it was built before the ozone cracked and the world became eco

#30 FOCA

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 05:40 PM

Say the 14th November I'll purchase the sub from you mate,
How much
And check out parcel2go.com for a range of prices on shipping,

How would I know if Levin has smart charge?
I doubt it does though as it was built before the ozone cracked and the world became eco

Will get the speaker/ shipping costs sorted - ive found some acoustic foam will sort the rest out soon

 

Update on the smart charge/ lithium battery - 

 

Iv'e been swatting up on the Ford smart charge system and basically the ECU controls the output of the alternator, boosting the voltage when the car is warming up, (using the IAT and engine temp) - it can boost the voltage as high as 16v - this is bad for the lithium battery (or for non silver calcium/ smart charge batteries) as it cant exeed 15.1v  im working on a way round this as thats a big weight saving on the (my) car  

 

Im confident the Levin will not have a smart-charge system, as it does not have an OBD port, it probably pre-dates this, so i recon you can fit the lightweight battery ok      



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