Buying A Used Focus (1.8 Tdci Zetec) Advice

[Gazanimal]

Over the coming weekend I'm going to look at a 2006 '56 plate Focus diesel with 58k on the clock from a local(ish) franchise dealer.

Has anyone got any good advice on things to look for with regards a diesel Focus, or just general car buying advice in general.

I will be trading in my current 2001 Focus 1.6 LX against any potential buy.

Thanks in advance for any helpful hints :)

[stef123]

I would look out for the usual things, service history, any receipts etc.

maybe keep an eye out for anything indicating that the rear bushes are worn or deteriorated as they can be a pig to do meaning they can be costly.

Might also be worth having a squint at the exhaust as if its original it could be close to being replaced. the last 1.8tdci focus I changed the exhaust on was about the same mileage/year and was pretty bad.

Apart from that, hope everything goes well and you get your new car

[karlos the jackal]

I've had mine for 3 months now. The 1.8 engine is rather ancient tech but is supposed to be very reliable, and there's no DPF to worry about. The only real potential for trouble will be the dual-mass flywheel. Listen carefully for any rattling sound at idle that goes away when you press the clutch, and any knocking noise when you turn the engine off. A colleague of mine has just had his go on his Mondeo and it cost him £900 to put right.

Other than that check that it's been serviced regularly and check for stone chips to the front sills by the wheels.

[Stoney871]

If a 1.6 be sure that the DPF is serviced and topped up with Eolys fluid.

As stated the 1.8 is better as it has no DPF to worry about, check flywheel as said and check service history.

I'd make sure that the fuel filter/seal have been changed and for original Ford ones as aftermarket ones are no good and cause starting/running problems due to crap seals.

The engine is bombproof and at 58k the belts should be in good order (worth looking though).

Check all electrics for functionality as per usual and keep an eye on the clocks when the ignition goes on, if the needles sweep then ask about a new silver calcium battery (the only type the car should be fitted with).

Have a test drive and don't let them fob you woith a short jaunt, take it around a varying routr with plenty of corners/roundabouts, the car should feel crisp and steady with no body roll.

Brake should be precise and gearbox should be smooth.

Be aware that the clutch pedal may seem to have a high bite, this is normal but make sure the bite is not too high, put the car into gear with the handbrake firmly on and and slowly let the pedal up, the engine should strain/attempt to stall at about 2/3 of pedal rise, if not then ask about the condition of the clutch.

Check wheel arches and bonnet lip for corrosion and also around the door/hatch shuts.

Other than that make your choice and enjoy.

My personal preference is the 1.8 as it drives like a champ and has good acceleration/cornering, you'll not be disappointed.

[Hyrule]

My experiences have all been private sales so some of the advice may not be relevant with regards to dealers. But when I bought my focus, I had done HPI checks and been to see at least 10 previous cars, before I found the one that ticked all the boxes.

Main thing to remember is an honest seller, will let you check everything and be able to answer the majority of your questions, and most importantly take your time. Any seller trying to rush you, fob you off or unwilling to answer questions or provide documents, should be avoided. It's a buyers market so there will always be other cars:

THINGS TO DO (not exhaustive but from experience)

HPI Check: dont buy the cheap ones that cost a few quid, get a full comprehensive check covering outstanding finance, theft, accidents, plate changes, accidents, write offs etc. I used https://www.mycarcheck.com/ , plenty of cars I was going to look at on paper that seemed great, had a hidden history.

Check the VIN number matches the logbook and the name on the logbook is of the person who is actually selling the car. You don't want to end up in a situation where someone is selling a car that doesn't belong to them. VIN should be located on the passenger side of the front windscreen just above the bonnet.

Enquire about service history, when the MOT is due and certificates, and is the car taxed. A reluctance to provide this or lack of could indicate an issue.

Check the engine, for any signs of oil, coolant, or fluid leaks etc. Check the oil level using the dipstick. Does the key open the bonnet and does the bonnet open without issue?

Check the tyres for signs of damage and get a tread gauge to measure how much is left on each tyre (nothing worse than buying a car to find out you have to replace all four wheels at your expense)

Look for signs of rust on the wheel arches, check the bodywork for faded paint or discolouration, which could indicate shunting or a respray over damage.

Turn the car on to make sure it starts first time, listen to the engine, any rattling or unusual noises?

Check all the electrics and functions of the car work. You will be surprised how many people do not check the basics:

Lights (external and internal), indicators, Door Locks (central locking if it has) Windscreen wipers, Washers, Windows, radio. Does everything work smoothly. Get the seller to turn the ignition to point II, with the handbrake on, put the car into reverse and ensure the reverse light comes on. Check the rear fog, front fogs, main, dipped, indicators and sidelights.

Heater controls, does the aircon work if included in this model. Heating.

Check the instrument cluster. Any warning lights on the dash or errors on the cluster? does the mileage tally up with the MOT certificates?

Check the seatbelts (MOT failure if they do not work), seat controls, can you adjust the seat backwards and forwards, up and down etc.

Check the boot, is a spare wheel kit available. Boot tray. Boot light works.

Do another check of the body work, look for chips, scratches etc, You should expect some with age and general wear and tear, but anything major like dents or signs of repair could indicate unreported damage.

TEST DRIVE: if you are allowed drive it yourself. I'd advise you to do this on a quiet road if you can find one:

Drive slowly and take your hand of the wheel briefly. Does the steering veer to the left or right. If so could indicate and issue with wheel alignment.

As the car should be warmed up now, listen to how it drives. Any strange noises, rumbling, rattling. Any smoke coming out of the exhaust?

How does the car feel to drive? Brakes should be responsive, clutch and gear changes should be smooth.

Give the car another once over and if you have any questions no matter how trivial you think they maybe...ASK.

You can take some time to think about it but if you are happy then it could be the car for you.

Once again don't let the seller pressure you or rush you.

Good Luck

[Stoney871]

One final point, if they only have one key for the car walk away.

Extra keys are a faff to sort out and you don't want to be stuffed if you lose or break your only key.

[Gazanimal]

Cheers guys.

Plenty of stuff to remember and take onboard and I appreciate all the input.

The car is at a franchised dealer and I've done a basic HPI check on it anyway and it's come back clean.

Just need to jot down some notes about what to look for.

Thanks again.

[Gazanimal]

Just an update guys.

Went to see the Focus this morning and had a good test drive in it. Felt really nice and drove really smooth and without any squeals, knocks, bangs creaks etc.

It had a couple of cosmetic issues which they are going to sort out in the paint shop tomorrow and will be collecting it on Tuesday morning all being well.

Thanks for all the advice & fingers crossed it'll be a great car as was my old Focus.

Here's she is :D

[Stoney871]

Titanium or Zetec model?

[Gazanimal]

Titanium or Zetec model?

Zetec

[Stoney871]

Nice.

Good effort there.

[artscot79]

Check the boot for water open the boot and on tge right and left of the plastic boot panel pull the carpet to the side and pop youre finger in if its wet then its the rear light screws and the spoiler leaking easy to fix but it can go unnoticed for a long time also ask if the tops of the boot hinges have been sealed youll see all 3 sides are done but the tops are not and they do allow water in so ask for them to be sealed and ignore if the bumper looks a shade different than the rest its a common mk2 trait in the way the paint fades on the plastic to the metal more noticeable on certain colours in certain lights