Replacing A Timing Belt On A 1999 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec

[wase16ll]

apologies..doing this from memory and long time since i did 1.25 with AC

looking at the pic, i can see now that the nuts are on reverse side, thought they were just studded bolts.

so going by that pic, the third is hidden same side but tucked closer to engine block, you might be able to view it easier from under car

[wase16ll]

you may also find the nut or bolt is now reverse so unscrewed towards you as you stand at the wing

[pbmitchell]

In fact, the p/s pump is held on by two bolts (not nuts as I said above, confused cos the Ford Workshop manual says 'nuts').

Here's a pic taken from the driver's wing, looking downwards.

The two bolts, one vertically above the other, are arrowed in red.

Where's the third bolt in relation to these two?

[wase16ll]

im convinced your undoing the wrong bolts there.

if you compare your pic to the ford one, you can see the bolts you have undone are not the ones arrowed.

in your pic, you can see one of the studs you want directly above the bolt you have undone in the foreground..the bolts you want are verticle fitted, not horizontal

[wase16ll]

sorry...horizontal, not verticle

[pbmitchell]

in your pic, you can see one of the studs you want directly above the bolt you have undone in the foreground..the bolts you want are verticle fitted, not horizontal

The stud directly above the bolt I have undone in the foreground goes straight into the exhaust manifold.

The two bolts I have undone go straight into the p/s pump, through a mounting plate.

[wase16ll]

now im totally confused.

the manual illustration matches your pic, yet the bolts indicated to remove are not the ones you have undone.

cant really see clearly from your pic, but on the illustration, the stud above the one in the foreground is in thje illustration, the bolt that illustration indicates to be undone is just behind it.

so unless the illustration is not the correct one for removing the pas then i have no idea where that 3rd bolt will be

[wase16ll]

think one of the bolts you want is below that exhaust stud and set back a little, photo is blurred but you can just make it out.

[wase16ll]

put another way, you maybe undoing the bolts securing the mounting plate to engine,[probably find there is another one hidden for that too}

what your looking for is PAS pump to mounting plate bolts

[pbmitchell]

The strange bolt in the exhaust manifold has a reverse torx head and the manifold is held on by other similar bolts along its length.

What's interesting is that I now see two similar torx bolts holding the p/s pump mounting bracket to the engine. These are in line with the exhaust manifold torx bolt in the pic but below it.

The manual talks of moving the pump 'back' by 10 mm and if that means 'towards the back of the car', the bolts I've undone must be wrong. I thought moving it back meant moving it away from the engine.

Also, if by 'pull the p/s pump back' they mean 'pull the p/s pump (still attached to its bracket) back', we could be onto something here.

In fact, based upon your explanations, the diagram in the manual looks very clear now.

Thanks!

[wase16ll]

pleasure...we'll get there :)

[pbmitchell]

And I've just found the third torx bolt - exactly where the manual's diagram suggested it would be.

I don't have a set of reverse-torx sockets so it's off to the shops tomorrow.

I don't even know how they attach anything tightly to anything (as they have no head) but we'll see what happens when I turn them.

[wase16ll]

almost sure you will find nuts on them, slacken the nuts then undo the torx studs...i doubt it will just be torx stud

[pbmitchell]

A bit of good news.

The reverse torx studs were a red herring. The studs don't need to be undone. They stay in place and the p/s pump bracket just slides over them and is bolted tight by nuts on the studs.

With the nuts undone, the bracket will slide back a bit but I'm not sure why the p/s pulley has to be moved back. I'm assuming it's to clear the timing belt upper cover which is unbolted but seems to be trapped by its out-of-sight corner near the p/s pulley.

[pbmitchell]

A mystery has now arisen.

I tried rotating the crank to find TDC (with a long slim length of wood through No.1 spark plug hole) and, although the crank turns fine in an anti-clockwise direction, it will only turn a few degrees clockwise before coming to a dead stop and refusing to budge further.

I've rotated it 5 or 6 revolutions anticlockwise and it turns fine.

There are no locking pins in place and it turned just fine before I removed the crank pulley bolt.

If the timing has slipped, I should able to set it right when I adjust the camshafts, shouldn't I?

But why will it turn anti-clockwise ad infinitum, but locks up after a short rotation clockwise?

The answer appears to be that, with the crank pulley bolt removed, the timing belt is now able to slip on the crank pulley and was doing so when I turned the crank clockwise but, for some reason, didn't do so when I turned it anti-clockwise.

I tested it last night by turning the crank 90 degrees - and the cams didn't move even though the belt is still firmly in place on their pulleys.

Talking about the crank pulley, even with the bolt removed I can't get it off so I've sent off for a pulley puller.

When it arrives, I'll post further updates,

[pbmitchell]

Buggeration!

The set of three 3-claw pulley pullers has arrived and there isn't nearly enough space to use any of them.

The pulley is 5" diameter and only about 3" from the chassis.

I've seen a flat puller (looks like thick disc) on eBay but I'm reluctant to keep throwing money at tools that might not fit.

Any ideas?

[wase16ll]

have you removed the engine mount on that side, if so, with engine supported by a jack, you should be able to lower that side of engine enough for pulley to clear the chassis/

be very carefull of turning crank without cams, its possible to bend a valve

[pbmitchell]

have you removed the engine mount on that side, if so, with engine supported by a jack, you should be able to lower that side of engine enough for pulley to clear the chassis/

Sounds like a good idea.

The crank pulley will need to drop at least 2" on that side to allow a longish puller-bolt to access the hole in the pulley, and a 2-claw puller will be needed instead of a 3-claw, I think, as it needs less overall space,

The engine is still attached to the gearbox and thus to the drive-shafts so I don't want to bend anything. :o

Will the pulley drop 2+" without damaging anything?

[wase16ll]

no problem with dropping the engine on that side, iirc, think the engine ony drops enough to access the whole puley, before the sump sits on the subframe and cant go any lower..engine can also be raised higher to make access easier for all the other gubbins, but dont over do it as it can stress some hoses/cables etc, only need to raise it above the norm a few inches to make things bit easier..just be sure engine is supported properly throughout.

[pbmitchell]

Okay, the engine is dropped on the driver's side and I can now get the puller on if I loosen the inner 'mud shield thing' and pull it out of the way.

I'm using the 6" puller from a set of Am Tech pullers.

http://pics.kozy-homes.co.uk/supersize/02361-00-1.jpg

The pulley certainly doesn't want to budge and, the snag is that, when I tighten the puller to attempt to pull the pulley off, the jaws (behind the rear of the pulley) tend to slip outwards and, although still touching the back of the pulley, they're exerting pressure on the front lip as they try to move inwards as well as away from the engine.

I'm worried I might crack a chunk or three out of the front lip if I exert too much pressure.

Looking on Youtube at people removing pulleys with pullers, their pullers seems to be pulling the pulley without attempting to crush it at the same time.

Do I need a different (better) puller?

Maybe a 2-arm puller instead of a 3-arm?

(P.S. I might have made progress. See next post)

[pbmitchell]

Limited success?

After struggling with the puller (I've never used one before), I think I might have moved the pulley about a quarter of an inch - but I'm not sure.

Looking at the centre, it looks as if it's moved.

I attach a pic and hope someone can confirm either that it's moved a little or it hasn't.

Pulley bitmap small.bmp

The snag is that I had no more thread available on the puller bolt by the time it had moved that far so (if it has moved) I'll have to see if I can adjust the legs to give me a bit more thread.

This is a real bugger of a job!

[pbmitchell]

Let joy be unconfined! :D

The pulley is off!

To gain some extra 'unscrewing distance', I inserted two 1p-pieces into the centre of the of the pulley hole and that gave me about an inch more to play with.

A few more turns on the puller and the pulley came off. :P

[georgen]

use a socket or a round spacer where the bolt goes to give the puller more pull, you should always put something before the hole to protect the threads, i normally leave the bolt in a few threads and use the puller onto that.

[pbmitchell]

use a socket or a round spacer where the bolt goes to give the puller more pull, you should always put something before the hole to protect the threads, i normally leave the bolt in a few threads and use the puller onto that.

Excellent advice, Georgen.

As soon as I read it, I grabbed the crank bolt and tried it in the threads - it went in perfectly so I was obviously lucky I didn't damage them.

Phew!

I've now got both timing covers off and I can see the timing belt in all its glory.

I was expecting to be at this stage after about an hour's work from the moment I opened the bonnet on Day 1.

It's taken ten days to get this far, and I'm seriously hoping it doesn't take another ten to get it finished.

[pbmitchell]

I've just removed the old timing belt and it looks fine to me after 138,000 miles.

No splits, no damaged teeth, and it's not overly bendy.

I'm still going to change it (obviously).

I'm no expert on timing belts but can anyone give an opinion based on the pic below?

Timing Belt old small.bmp