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Replacing A Timing Belt On A 1999 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec


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#31 pbmitchell

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:45 PM



in your pic, you can see one of the studs you want directly above the bolt you have undone in the foreground..the bolts you want are verticle fitted, not horizontal

 

The stud directly above the bolt I have undone in the foreground goes straight into the exhaust manifold.

 

The two bolts I have undone go straight into the p/s pump, through a mounting plate.



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#32 wase16ll

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:03 PM

now im totally confused.
the manual illustration matches your pic, yet the bolts indicated to remove are not the ones you have undone.
cant really see clearly from your pic, but on the illustration, the stud above the one in the foreground is in thje illustration, the bolt that illustration indicates to be undone is just behind it.

so unless the illustration is not the correct one for removing the pas then i have no idea where that 3rd bolt will be

#33 wase16ll

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:08 PM

think one of the bolts you want is below that exhaust stud and set back a little, photo is blurred but you can just make it out.

#34 wase16ll

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:17 PM

put another way, you maybe undoing the bolts securing the mounting plate to engine,[probably find there is another one hidden for that too}
what your looking for is PAS pump to mounting plate bolts

#35 pbmitchell

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:30 PM

The strange bolt in the exhaust manifold has a reverse torx head and the manifold is held on by other similar bolts along its length.

 

What's interesting is that I now see two similar torx bolts holding the p/s pump mounting bracket to the engine. These are in line with the exhaust manifold torx bolt in the pic but below it.

 

The manual talks of moving the pump 'back' by 10 mm and if that means 'towards the back of the car', the bolts I've undone must be wrong. I thought moving it back meant moving it away from the engine.

 

Also, if by 'pull the p/s pump back' they mean 'pull the p/s pump (still attached to its bracket) back', we could be onto something here.

 

In fact, based upon your explanations, the diagram in the manual looks very clear now.

 

Thanks!



#36 wase16ll

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:32 PM

pleasure...we'll get there :)

#37 pbmitchell

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 10:32 PM

And I've just found the third torx bolt - exactly where the manual's diagram suggested it would be.

 

I don't have a set of reverse-torx sockets so it's off to the shops tomorrow.

 

I don't even know how they attach anything tightly to anything (as they have no head) but we'll see what happens when I turn them.



#38 wase16ll

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 11:08 PM

almost sure you will find nuts on them, slacken the nuts then undo the torx studs...i doubt it will just be torx stud

#39 pbmitchell

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 09:15 AM

A bit of good news.

 

The reverse torx studs were a red herring. The studs don't need to be undone. They stay in place and the p/s pump bracket just slides over them and is bolted tight by nuts on the studs.

 

With the nuts undone, the bracket will slide back a bit but I'm not sure why the p/s pulley has to be moved back. I'm assuming it's to clear the timing belt upper cover which is unbolted but seems to be trapped by its out-of-sight corner near the p/s pulley.



#40 pbmitchell

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 10:28 AM

A mystery has now arisen.

 

I tried rotating the crank to find TDC (with a long slim length of wood through No.1 spark plug hole) and, although the crank turns fine in an anti-clockwise direction, it will only turn a few degrees clockwise before coming to a dead stop and refusing to budge further.

 

I've rotated it 5 or 6 revolutions anticlockwise and it turns fine.

 

There are no locking pins in place and it turned just fine before I removed the crank pulley bolt.

 

If the timing has slipped, I should able to set it right when I adjust the camshafts, shouldn't I?

 

But why will it turn anti-clockwise ad infinitum, but locks up after a short rotation clockwise?

 

The answer appears to be that, with the crank pulley bolt removed, the timing belt is now able to slip on the crank pulley and was doing so when I turned the crank clockwise but, for some reason, didn't do so when I turned it anti-clockwise.

 

I tested it last night by turning the crank 90 degrees - and the cams didn't move even though the belt is still firmly in place on their pulleys.

 

Talking about the crank pulley, even with the bolt removed I can't get it off so I've sent off for a pulley puller.

 

When it arrives, I'll post further updates,



#41 pbmitchell

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 03:21 PM

 Buggeration!

 

The set of three 3-claw pulley pullers has arrived and there isn't nearly enough space to use any of them.

 

The pulley is 5" diameter and only about 3" from the chassis.

 

I've seen a flat puller (looks like thick disc) on eBay but I'm reluctant to keep throwing money at tools that might not fit.

 

Any ideas?



#42 wase16ll

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 04:51 PM

have you removed the engine mount on that side, if so, with engine supported by a jack, you should be able to lower that side of engine enough for pulley to clear the chassis/

 

be very carefull of turning crank without cams, its possible to bend a valve



#43 pbmitchell

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 05:18 PM

have you removed the engine mount on that side, if so, with engine supported by a jack, you should be able to lower that side of engine enough for pulley to clear the chassis/

 

Sounds like a good idea.

 

The crank pulley will need to drop at least 2" on that side to allow a longish puller-bolt to access the hole in the pulley, and a 2-claw puller will be needed instead of a 3-claw, I think, as it needs less overall space,

 

The engine is still attached to the gearbox and thus to the drive-shafts so I don't want to bend anything.  :o

 

Will the pulley drop 2+" without damaging anything?



#44 wase16ll

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 05:39 PM

no problem with dropping the engine on that side, iirc, think the engine ony drops enough to access the whole puley, before the sump sits on the subframe and cant go any lower..engine can also be raised higher to make access easier for all the other gubbins, but dont over do it as it can stress some hoses/cables etc, only need to raise it above the norm a few inches to make things bit easier..just be sure engine is supported properly throughout.



#45 pbmitchell

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 12:37 PM

Okay, the engine is dropped on the driver's side and I can now get the puller on if I loosen the inner 'mud shield thing' and pull it out of the way.

 

I'm using the 6" puller from a set of Am Tech pullers.

 

http://pics.kozy-hom.../02361-00-1.jpg

 

The pulley certainly doesn't want to budge and, the snag is that, when I tighten the puller to attempt to pull the pulley off, the jaws (behind the rear of the pulley) tend to slip outwards and, although still touching the back of the pulley, they're exerting pressure on the front lip as they try to move inwards as well as away from the engine. 

 

I'm worried I might crack a chunk or three out of the front lip if I exert too much pressure.

 

Looking on Youtube at people removing pulleys with pullers, their pullers seems to be pulling the pulley without attempting to crush it at the same time.

 

Do I need a different (better) puller?

 

Maybe a 2-arm puller instead of a 3-arm?

 

(P.S. I might have made progress. See next post)



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