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Replacing A Timing Belt On A 1999 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec


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#46 pbmitchell

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 02:50 PM

Limited success?

 

After struggling with the puller (I've never used one before), I think I might have moved the pulley about a quarter of an inch - but I'm not sure.

 

Looking at the centre, it looks as if it's moved.

 

I attach a pic and hope someone can confirm either that it's moved a little or it hasn't.

 

Attached File  Pulley bitmap small.bmp   1.92MB   32 downloads

 

The snag is that I had no more thread available on the puller bolt by the time it had moved that far so (if it has moved) I'll have to see if I can adjust the legs to give me a bit more thread.

 

This is a real bugger of a job!



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#47 pbmitchell

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:33 PM

Let joy be unconfined! :D

 

The pulley is off!  :lol:

 

To gain some extra 'unscrewing distance', I inserted two 1p-pieces into the centre of the of the pulley hole and that gave me about an inch more to play with.

 

A few more turns on the puller and the pulley came off. :P



#48 georgen

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:34 PM

use a socket or a round spacer where the bolt goes to give the puller more pull, you should always put something before the hole to protect the threads, i normally leave the bolt in a few threads and use the puller onto that.



#49 pbmitchell

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 04:55 PM

use a socket or a round spacer where the bolt goes to give the puller more pull, you should always put something before the hole to protect the threads, i normally leave the bolt in a few threads and use the puller onto that.

 


 

Excellent advice, Georgen.

 

As soon as I read it, I grabbed the crank bolt and tried it in the threads - it went in perfectly so I was obviously lucky I didn't damage them.

 

Phew! 

 

I've now got both timing covers off and I can see the timing belt in all its glory.

 

I was expecting to be at this stage after about an hour's work from the moment I opened the bonnet on Day 1.

 

It's taken ten days to get this far, and I'm seriously hoping it doesn't take another ten to get it finished.



#50 pbmitchell

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 10:04 AM

I've just removed the old timing belt and it looks fine to me after 138,000 miles.

 

No splits, no damaged teeth, and it's not overly bendy.

 

I'm still going to change it (obviously).

 

I'm no expert on timing belts but can anyone give an opinion based on the pic below?

Attached Files



#51 wase16ll

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 02:09 PM

wouldnt worry about condition of old belt unless there are clear signs its not running true., such as more wear on one side of teeth than other..from that pic, cant see any problem..but as you've said, changing it anyway is good practice, replacing a used belt is a gamble that could cost

dont forget you really need to change tensioner too, should be supplied if you buy a timing belt kit



#52 pbmitchell

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 02:20 PM

Cheers, Wase.

 

I've just fitted the new belt and tensioner, and the Ford Workshop Manual talks about tensioning the belt using an allen key.

 

However, I'm sure I read somewhere that on this 'newer' type of tensioner, I just bolt it on then pull the pin (hand grenade style) and Bob's my uncle. Tensioning is done automatically.

 

Is that correct?



#53 wase16ll

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 03:47 PM

they are different tensioners, not sure if they are interchangable.

 

think there were 2 types of tensioner that were sprung loaded and adjusted with allan key [again, not sure if they were interchangable)

the other was an auto tensioner that once all was bolted up/timing set, pull the pin

 

so depends which type you have, if new one is different, would double check if they are interchangable



#54 pbmitchell

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 06:50 PM

The old one and the new one are the same - and the new one had a pin to pull out. The old one had a hole where the pin would have gone so I assume they both tension automatically.

 

On another note, I've tightened the crank pulley bolt but I'm not sure I've got it to 40 Nm plus 90 degrees - mainly because my screwdriver slipped put of the flywheel while I was tightening it those 90 degrees.

 

Be that as it may, I ended up pushing hard on a 23" handle attached to an 18mm socket on the bolt and it wouldn't turn any more. I've got it to about 150 Nm.

 

Will that be enough?

 

Needless to say, it would be something of a nuisance if I tore the head off the bolt or even rounded the corners, rendering it immovable.

 

And why can't Ford just give us a total tightening torque in Nm?  :huh:



#55 georgen

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 07:04 PM

As long as its tight I would not worry about it, as you say it would not move any more, personally as for this type of thing I dont get hung up on torque of bolts, rebuilding an engine yes, putting something on No, so I would of put a little bit thread lock on for good measure and piece of mind as torque of bolts can be affected by dirt in threads old bolts to new bolts ect so as i said in these cases I take it with a pinch of salt, you know if its tight enough.



#56 pbmitchell

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 08:12 AM

The job's done and the car started perfectly - and it drives as well as it ever did too! 

 

Many, many thanks to all who've offered advice and support on this thread.

 

:D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D     :D



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