Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Ford Focus Mk1 Common Problems Thread


jamesm182
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 2/21/2021 at 11:58 AM, Steve M, 2003 Focus said:

I have a Mk1 2003 model 1.4 CL, had the car for about 6 years now and it's just up to a genuine 64k miles.

As people say the 1.4 is under-powered, but as most of the time it's just doing a 10 mile daily commute, it's OK and apart from the usual consumables on a car, the only big thing that has gone wrong was the Instrument Cluster, but that was fixed last year.

Main problem I've got with it now is  "they all suffer from leaking rear lights"  from the pic below the small compartment at the rear of the inner 3/4 panel fills up with about 1/2" of water and then overflows across the lip into the spare wheel well.

How/what is the best way to fix this? Is it the seals at the base of the light just don't seal onto the body, so you just use a sealant or is it where the lens fix to the back of the light so that the water goes into the light itself that's the problem?

Hope somebody can advise, then I can put the trim and carpet back into the boot.

 

Steve

 

Mk 1 Focus, inside hatchback, nearside rear.JPG

The light cluster has one external screw fixing.This is where I was getting water ingress.Maybe it’s the same for you.

It’s difficult to make this water tight because of the design.After several attempts with clear bathroom sealant I eventually succeeded.Update us on how you did👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

On 2/22/2021 at 6:04 PM, williamweb said:

The light cluster has one external screw fixing.This is where I was getting water ingress.Maybe it’s the same for you.

It’s difficult to make this water tight because of the design.After several attempts with clear bathroom sealant I eventually succeeded.Update us on how you did👍

Thanks for that info, I'll have a go with that and let you know how I get on.

Got the MOT booked in for early next week, so will get the checks for that out of the way first over the weekend and sort out the leaks after then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had 2 mk1’s 2002 and 2000. Currently have 2000 model. On both I have had to change rear wheel bearings the boot latch doesn’t latch properly and when shutting the boot it bounces open. I have just had a problem rear it’s head on mine not sure if it’s common. But where the hydraulic line goes to the concentric slave cylinder there is a 20mm ish nut that joins unit and line. I can’t think what they call these but mine has split along the length causing the fluid to leak out and not release the clutch properly. Like I say not sure if common or not and also if anyone knows the name of this part that would be a great help 😂😂👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Hi folks, I have a MK1 2003 Focus Zetec 1.6 with a very annoying intermittent problem and I would really appreciate any advice you lot might be able to give.

It's a lovely car and runs like a dream normally with no issues....BUT!

Over the last 4/5 years, on 5 occasions now, it suddenly refuses to start. It turns over and sounds like it's about to start with the engine firing up briefly, but then sounds like it has no fuel left and the starter motor just turns over and that's it. If I try again after a few seconds, it again fires up briefly then wont start. I know I'm probably stating the obvious but it's as if when I first turn the ignition, some fuel gets to the engine, then there is no more fuel until I start it again, then starting it again, the fuel again dries up ad infinitum. If I walk away and come back in half an hour or so, it starts perfectly as though it's never had a problem and will happily run like that for a year or even longer.

And then one day it does it all over again. I've had Green Flag bring me home on at least two occasions and as soon as the car is offloaded from the pick up it starts no bother.

I'm quite happy for it to be looked at but as it only happens rarely and is then fine, would any mechanic be able to diagnose it?

Any thoughts please?

Thanks in advance...hopefully!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Robd63 said:

as it only happens rarely and is then fine, would any mechanic be able to diagnose it?

It would probably be very difficult for them. If you used a good diagnostic scanner (like Forscan) on the car straight after an event, it might pick up an error code (DTC). Leaving it several days to get it done by a garage may well result in the code(s) disappearing. You can get Forscan for under £20 on a laptop, or a little more on a smartphone.

In the old days, the basic diagnostic procedure was: Ignition, Fuel, Compression. If you have all 3 at the right time, then it must start. The list remains the same now, but with all the sensors & electronics, there are more possibilities, and testing each item is harder. DTCs are not 100% reliable, but they usually point in the right general direction.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 3 months later...
On 10/9/2013 at 6:57 PM, artscot79 said:

Do we have enough room lol

1.4 is underpowered and best avoided they all suffer from leaking rear lights so check the boot for damp the pollen filter is another common problem so check the passenger front footwell for damp

the central locking can play up locking and unlocking the doors usually due to water removing the top torq screw on the offending door and spraying wd40 at a downwards 45 degree angle can help solve it

many are fitted with incorrect batteries so any electrical issues check the battery is a silver calcium one

Missfires are common due to the coil pack a very common issue giving uneven idle and poor running best to change the plugs leads and coil pack

The cluster can go faulty mainly to poor soldering or damp look for the display light not going out or random lights coming on and going off for no reason

The 1.8 has an issue with the vacume hose at the rear of the throttle body collapsing easy to locate its the only one at the rear with a bend in it this causes poor running poor idle rev the car whilst observing the hose you will see it being sucked together replacements are ford only and easy to replace its best to wrap several layers of tin foil round the new one and secure with a cable tie to orevent the heat destroying it.

the gearbox speed sensor is prone to failing symptoms are the car cutting out when slowing or stopping the speedo drops to zero whilst driving

Smart charge faults are easy to check for enter dash diagnostics by holding the trip reset down then whilst held down start the car it will show test each press scrolls through search for bat it should show 14.4 v at idle with no electrics lower than 13.4 with no electrics indicates a fault

Uneven idle if light is nothing to worry about and normal due to the low idle soeed of the car and the way it balances the emissions

Rear trailing arm bushes go after 5 years or so not easy to do youreself as the whole rear end bolts are usually ceased have these inspected before buying or test drive and feel for wandering at the rear under cornering

2keys there should be 2 keys with the car most only have one so haggle if thats the case blank keys with remotes are cheap enough most mobile locksmiths will come out supply and cut the key for around £100 best to have 2 as the keys wear and can fail to start the car

Hi, you seem to know what your talking about matey I have a Ford Focus 2008 1.8 with a charging issue. Replaced alternator and battery due to original battery going flat. Tested original alternator showed no voltage at battery so both replaced. Now car worked fine for 3-4 days then charging light comes on and battery goes flat. Odd thing alternator shows charging at 13.8 volts with all electrics on?? Any ideas matey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Capricorn said:

Odd thing alternator shows charging at 13.8 volts with all electrics on??

The alternator 'Smart Charge' function is not working and it has defaulted to standard charge as a fail safe option.

Two possible causes (a) the alternator itself is faulty. (b) the battery sense wire from the smart plug has high (or open) resistance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, unofix said:

The alternator 'Smart Charge' function is not working and it has defaulted to standard charge as a fail safe option.

Two possible causes (a) the alternator itself is faulty. (b) the battery sense wire from the smart plug has high (or open) resistance.

Arh great thanks I’ll check out ow to resolve the issue now you’ve suggested smart charging, it’s a new alternator so hopefully not that,  thank you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Sent my Mk1 to the scrappy with 134k on the clock last year. 😢

Was a great car, but the rust got her in the end. 

Rusted sills and rear arches are an issue.

Water ingress in boot - had that problem throughout my ownership of the car, and could never be arsed to find the source of it. Suspect failed welds/seam sealant somewhere behind the trim in the boot.

Clutch pedal return spring - snapped about 2 weeks after buying the car. Had to lift the pedal occasionally to make the clutch disengage properly or the car wouldn’t go into gear. A nightmare to change, so just left it. Still have the replacement spring. 

Rear bushes were expensive to replace. Time consuming job. 

Front wiper mechanism went caput. No used available. Very expensive to buy from ford, although I believe there’s a cheap fix for the issue on the internet.

2 x failed ABS pumps. Which lead to ABS light and handbrake light being on constantly - MOT fail point. Brakes still worked fine though. 

Handbrake cable snapped.

Drivers window mechanism failed - snapped cable. Easy DIY fix, although the window squeaked from then on.

2 x exhaust back boxes rotted off.

Needed a new ignition coil at around 80k.

Very reliable car overall tho. Needed tyres, pads, clutch, belt and water pump. Usual wear items. Did 80k in it without it really skipping a beat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I hope that someone can give me some advice.

 

I have an irritating problem on my 2002  Focus  1.6 L

 

Occasionally I turn the ignition key and nothing happens, battery seems OK.,  voltage is usually around 12.5. 

 

Sometimes after many tries it will start unexpectedly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Timby said:

Occasionally I turn the ignition key and nothing happens

Do you mean nothing at all, no lights on dash etc. Or just no click when turning to start position, and no cranking.

If there are no unusual indications on the dash when turning to start position, then the starter motor solenoid or pinion engagement mechanism may be faulty. There should be a small click, more audible under the bonnet, if this is the case. Though usually this is repaired simply by replacing the whole starter motor. Cleaning it, replacing just the solenoid & other repairs may be possible for DIY nutters (like me!).

No unusual indications on the dash and no under-bonnet click at all, even a faint one, suggests an electrical fault, maybe in the ignition switch, or the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box, or a fuse, or wiring. Inspection and DMM voltage tests can, with some difficulty, locate these type of problem.

Unusual dash indication, like lights going dim, out or on unexpectedly, or immobiliser LED flashing, will indicate another type of fault altogether.

12.5v on the battery when it is doing nothing is not a reliable indicator of a good battery. But the intermittent nature of this suggests a bad connection or mechanical fault rather than a bad battery.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter, Thanks for your reply. It is much appreciated. 

 

No unusual dash indication, lights are fine, I have  checked  the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box, the starter motor is lively when it works so I don't suspect the battery.

I suspect that the solenoid is sticking, usually when it does not start I connect a battery charger and it will start at once.

Next question,  how easy will it be to change the solenoid?

I can’t see how it is fixed,  hopefully I can reach it from the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Timby said:

Next question,  how easy will it be to change the solenoid?

Not easily as they are part of the starter motor and are intended to be replaced as a unit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Timby said:

how easy will it be to change the solenoid?

It will almost certainly mean removing the starter motor. But the hardest part may be finding a spare solenoid. As Unofix & I said, they are not usually changed separately. I had to hunt high & low to find one, Mid-Ulster Rotating Electrics were the source I found, and some guesswork was involved.

To determine if it was the solenoid, I had to test the starter motor on a workbench, which is an operation to be undertaken with a lot of caution! Messing about with car batteries, thick wires, and powerful motors needs planning and care. Removing the solenoid was another hurdle, I bent a Torx bit on the small but very tight fastenings. I managed to repair mine for just under £21 (in 2015), and was very pleased with the result, but it is not a project I would recommend to everyone! I may be a bit of a DIY nutter, but I also have respect for, and experience of, testing potentially dangerous electrical equipment, it is part of my job.

A second hand replacement motor, or even a reconditioned one, would be a better bet in most cases.

Your comment about the battery charger also makes me think. It could be the battery not providing enough voltage under load. Also the solenoid has to push the pinion into engagement with the flywheel before it can fully pull in and get the motor going, so the pinion could be sticking on its shaft or jamming as it enters the flywheel. Before I changed my solenoid, I knew the battery was good and quite new, that the pinion was free to slide, and that cleaning the solenoid contact did allow it to work reliably for a while, so I was certain it was wear on the contact itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Thank you both for your input,

The problem predates a battery change so that just about leaves the solenoid as a suspect.

It looks like solenoids are available on eBay but  I will get the whole  motor replaced professionally as I am getting too old the crawl about underneath.  

Unless someone can think of something else?

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 2 months later...

Fixed one common problem on my MK1.5 Wagon, or perhaps a disadvantage which is a interior cabin filter bracket which wasnt in the car the whole time apparently. Thats right the ford threw out this option from the car and replaced it with a more expensive bracket with just a mesh. 

disgusting and horrifying 

also slapped slapped on aftermarket HID headlights which is another disadvantage replacement due to poor illuminati at night. Now HID is blasting well just have to upgrade the god lights to LED

 

Here is the VID enjoy the show

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hq6mM5kNfTs

 

photo_2023-01-17 13.03.25.jpeg

photo_2023-01-17 13.03.28.jpeg

photo_2023-01-17 13.03.30.jpeg

photo_2023-01-17 13.07.23.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share





×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership