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jamesm182

Ford Focus Mk1 Common Problems Thread

102 posts in this topic

Just bought Mk 1 Focus . Lesson learned , when buying used car , take someone with you , who has experience , Dealer knew that the keys were badly worn . Had to haggle to get them to pay for new ones . Not cheap !! . Dealer also knew that Clutch release bearing was on the way out , New clutch !!. Also cam- belt / auxy belt needed to be replaced , £300 ! . Power steer fluid , black as night , another £40 . BEWARE.

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Locking problem with the remote key fob or manual locking via central locking on 2.litre Focus Estate (2001, mk1)

When I go and lock my wife's car, the car locks and unlocks within seconds.

I have looked at the locking button on the passenger side and noticed it seems to be stuck.

Her car has stood on the drive for a couple of days now (not good in South Wales), and has been unlocked the hole time.

I have gone through the unlucky pleasure of taking the passenger door apart and disconnected the power from the bottom of the central locking motor.

I can now lock all of the doors (including the boot), although the light on the dash shows that the passenger door of open.

The front passenger door now has to opened manually from the inside, which is okay for now.

At least now I can lock all the doors, as I couldn't before.

Just hoping than I can fit another central locking motor when it arrives, and all is okay?

Simon

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Cheers for this very useful thread and info, chaps. :) I own a Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI (115bhp) as my first car and it seems to be running as sweet as a nut at the moment. The only issue being that there wasn't a history of the car when I bought it, and only one key. I'm going to renew my timing belt, tensioner and water pump soon. I have the parts here, just reading up on how to fit them myself.

As for only having one key: if I were to buy a replacement key from eBay for £12.99 including the chip and battery inside, would I be able to take that into my local key cutting shop and have them match my original key? I would also need to get the key programmed, but as far as I'm aware, that can be done in a matter of minutes by myself at home? Cheers!

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You need two programmed keys to add another one (up to a total of 8 ).

A key shop may be able to programme one but I reckon an auto locksmith may ultimately become involved.

Focus 115 likes this

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You need two programmed keys to add another one (up to a total of 8 ).

A key shop may be able to programme one but I reckon an auto locksmith may ultimately become involved.

Ah, bugger. <_<

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This may have already been covered but, my latest issue is one of the over-revving kind! when driving and changing gear, the revs are slow to react and drop when shifting up. this does not happen when shifting down however.

also, if anyone knows how to fix this problem, it would help me a hell of a lot!

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Hey guys I'm back again with another issue for you to solve. I have a knocking noise when I wiggle the steering wheel left to right. Not full lock or anything just literally a little wiggle. It sometimes knocks over bumps too.

When it knocks it feels as if it's coming from the steering column at the bottom or the footwell area.

Can anyone suggest any places to look or parts to replace? For what it's worth when the front wheels are off the ground and I wiggle the steering wheel it doesn't knock at all, But when the wheels are on the ground it does.

So far I've changed the track rod ends and the drop links on both sides

I'm thinking more of steering column, inner tie rods, CV joints? (They don't clink but look a bit battered) and wishbone rubber joint thingys.

Any advice is, as always, much appreciated.

Cheers guys!

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Check the steering knuckle for play.

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Ok so i checked the knuckle all is snug there no problems. I had my apprentice (5 yr old son) rock the steering wheel left to right whilst I was underneath, I have narrowed the knocking down to the rack / inner tie rod area. Visibility and space wasn't ideal but my super human ears picked up the noise from inside the rubber boot on the drivers side (99% sure on this)

So my question now is, is it likely to be the inner tie rods or something a little further up into the rack? What's the average life span on these inner tie rods? My focus has covered 125k. I've purchased new inner rods as they were only 8 quid each on fleabay so not really a expensive job.

Cheers again!

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Hi people sorry hope you don't mind me asking this here but not entirely sure where to ask it and actually get replies. I'll start with the problem I have with my mk1.5 focus ebony and that is the battery warning light usually comes on. Did have it all checked by local garage and turns out it's a fault with the ecu. Anyway the other thing I wanted to ask was that my car is now 12 years old and probably could do with the cam belt being changed. Does the cam belt also drove the water pump????

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I believe the belt drives the pump yes, However you don't have to change the pump but it's advisable if you're going to all that effort anyway. As for your battery, is it a silver calcium one? Ford's don't really like any other kind of battery and anything but silver calcium is bad for the smart charge system.

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Thanks for the reply. After asking on Facebook and looking on you tube by the looks/sound of it the belt doesn't drive the water pump tbut I think it may be in that area and for only saving about £30 thinking I may as well just get it done. Has anyone upgraded their headlights?? I like the thought of changing to devil eye headlights as they have DRL built in. Apparently they have to be wired into the sidelights. Is this easy and how do I know which is which wire to put them on??? I been researching them for a while and know you use scotchblocks to connect them. Thanks for any replies.

Oh and yes the battery and everything is as it should. Basically it is a mixture of things but it generally points to the ECU not controlling the charge that goes to the battery. It doesn't actually affect the running but does dim lights slightly at night when warning light is on.

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Hello, my dad's 1.8 tdci focus has an intermittent fault. When driving the glow plug light starts to flash and the car develops a misfire. As soon as he turns it off and starts again it runs fine. Sometimes it will happen a few times a day, sometimes it will be weeks between. A local mechanic has looked for fault codes but none were registered

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Having worked at a Ford bodyshop in my experience the early mk1/1.5 focus and the early mondeo produced up until 02 focus and 03 mondeo suffered from a faulty door skin sealer that went very brittle and fell off. This then caused the door to collect water in the joint (skin to frame) and rust ,not just the doors either seen plenty of bonnets and tailgates affected but mainly on focus

noil likes this

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my focus did this really is annoying ,the cause was a crank case breather pipe was split (can get off ebay) I used flexi fuel pipe same diameter to replace worn section ,problem was solved (draws to much air in ) Reply for Jay from Somerset over revving /idleing issue

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aaronmaher47 in reply to your question ,are you sure its not the lower wishbones that need replacing

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Problems with a 2000 zetec 3dr. Certainly the weld seam sealant on doors,tailgate and bonnet has become brittle and come off in some areas, also rust under the windscreen 'rubber'.

Remote locking plays up now and again and I've have the tailgate open by itself a few times years ago but hasn't since pulling the connector apart and reconnecting.

I've found that the heated windscreen seems to work mostly on one side with a few untouched lines and the opposite effect the other side of the windscreen.

Also the rubber seal attatched to the headlight via the white plastic bit becomes very brittle and breaks easily.

ESP can go gaga and still haven't got it sorted out yet.

Plus it looks like one of the side rear windows is becoming unbonded from the car.

Tailgate rust on the mid point lower of the rear window and about 30cm each side of that too, also rust from tailgate handle/numberplate area.

Interior seems to be ok apart from noticing slight buckling of the A pillar trim (about 45% up the screen, seen this on a few other MK1's too)

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This may have already been covered but, my latest issue is one of the over-revving kind! when driving and changing gear, the revs are slow to react and drop when shifting up. this does not happen when shifting down however.

also, if anyone knows how to fix this problem, it would help me a hell of a lot!

I have this exact same issue, I have only had the car for around 6 weeks so thought it was me trying to get used to the clutch but I don't think it is.

Any possible causes for this?

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I have this exact same issue, I have only had the car for around 6 weeks so thought it was me trying to get used to the clutch but I don't think it is.

Any possible causes for this?

I noticed this after removing and refitting (and a few months later, replacing) the idle control valve. Its somewhat settled down now, only does it when cold and having been driving and then stopping after a hundred metres or so from first starting the engine.

Got a broken HVAC position selector dial. Stuck on windscreen thankfully so while safe, it does leave me with cold feet. Easy/cheap to repair?

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I noticed this after removing and refitting (and a few months later, replacing) the idle control valve. Its somewhat settled down now, only does it when cold and having been driving and then stopping after a hundred metres or so from first starting the engine.

Got a broken HVAC position selector dial. Stuck on windscreen thankfully so while safe, it does leave me with cold feet. Easy/cheap to repair?

Thanks the Idle Control Valve has been mentioned a few times, also someone suggested the temperature sensor which sits between the spark plugs on the top of the engine?

For you HVAC selector issue this may give you an idea of work involved: http://youtu.be/Jm9ehs1OScY

Part number may be different though!

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Thanks the Idle Control Valve has been mentioned a few times, also someone suggested the temperature sensor which sits between the spark plugs on the top of the engine?

For you HVAC selector issue this may give you an idea of work involved: http://youtu.be/Jm9ehs1OScY

Part number may be different though!

I guess the temperature sensor could be involved given (for me at least) it only occurs when cold.

Thanks. I'll probably leave it until the MOT in November now and see if it passes that first, its more of a mild annoyance than a real problem.

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Hi everyone, posting an appeal for someone to hopefully help me out with a query regarding the replacement of a speedo sensor.

Having a bit of trouble locating it :iim: so would be grateful if anyone could give me any pointers.
Got a new one in hand to fit, have jacked up the car, removed the n/s/f wheel and the arch liner (as per the Haynes manual), but I am struggling to find the location of the sensor and the pin that holds it in.

Have been told I should be able to see it from above if I look down near the brake fluid reservoir, but I am at a loss. I know I have to work from underneath, but trying to just visually find it is doing my crust in.

Many thanks in advance if anyone can help.

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Hi New to this club and I have a problem with my Ford Focus MK1 1.8 TDCI.

The problem is that the car was running fine (just bought it last week) Although the nearside headlight bulb was not working. Came to start it after it had been stood for 2 hours and the car is not trying to crank the engine on start. All of the electrics work fine including the radio windows etc. The central locking works with the single key on all 3 buttons. I have googled the problem and these are the steps I have followed so far.

PATS - I have tried the steps associated with gaining a PATS code in case it is the immobiliser however the single flashing alarm light (above the clock) Does not blink rapidly or differ in any way from its normal armed pulse (one flash every 3 seconds) Nevertheless I tried resetting the key using the reprogramming instructions and this seemed to work fine.

I have removed the blue clutch sensor switch and tested it with the switch extended and it is reading 0 OHMS of resistance as per specification.

I have checked the ignition system and there seems to be good current at the starter etc. There is 0 resistance from battery negative terminal to chassis.

I realise that the time has come where a visit to the garage may be necessary this will mean that this car will have to sit on the drive until finances improve.

I just wondered if there is something that another owner knows about with the 1.8 TDCI that might be the cause of the problem.

Summary

All electrics seem to work at position 2 on start no solenoid clicking or attempt to crank the engine.

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Is "pinging" "pinking" a common problem on focus mk1 ? if so how do i solve it? will a low octane fuel additive work? or will the ECU need to be checked out (which will put the car off the road for at least a week) be worth doing ? mines a 2003 model is it worth it or do i just live with it?

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Hi All,

Please bear with me as I have no idea about cars but was hoping someone might be able to point me in the general direction of the fault!

I have an old ford focus which generally runs quite well and has only recently passed its MOT but it has just started making a loud running noise (from the back left of the car I think). It sounds as though the car is struggling to move, a bit like it is driving up a steep hill when in fact it is on a flat road. This noise only seems to happen when I am over 20mph but the rev meter doesn't seem too high. No warning lights come up but it really doesn't sound good and I'm not sure where to start looking for a fault (or getting my dad to)!

Thanks for any help!

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