• Share Your Car Experience
      Share Your Car Experience
    • Huge Range of Ford Parts
      Huge Range of Ford Parts
    • Get Your Club gear
      Get Your Club gear
    • 1000's Of Fords For Sale
      1000's Of Fords For Sale
    • Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
      Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
    • Join Premium & Save
      Join Premium & Save


jamesm182

Ford Focus Mk1 Common Problems Thread

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, 

This is my first post here and I am already in need of some help! I recently bought a 2001 MK1 Focus, 1.6 Petrol Automatic. It has around 120k miles on the clock. After only a few days of driving the car; I was on the way home from work one day when the car began to stall while stopped at traffic lights. Luckily the lights went green and I was able to accelerate and stop it cutting out, until I got into my driveway and it died. It then wouldn't start even though it was turning over fine, just not starting. A friend connected his diagnostics kit and it gave the camshaft position sensor error code and he proceeded to disconnect and reconnect the battery and it fired first time. The car then ran fine for almost 2 weeks until it happened again and left me stranded in the middle of nowhere. After spending the weekend in the mechanics it then fired up straight away for them on their first attempt. On my way to auto electrician it then happened again while driving along in traffic, which is very nerve wrecking not to mention dangerous. 

From researching the issue it appears to be relatively common but I have tried all of the common faults and so far no joy! It has had the ignition coil, cam and crank shaft sensors replaced and was running perfectly for the mechanic but died on the two occasions I have collected it from them. I have suggested the gearbox speed sensor but the auto electrician said this would only cause rough gear changes and not cause the car to stall and not re-start. 

Apart from trying to get a refund form the seller (unlikely as it was a private sale) I am out of ideas at what I can do to find a solution. Does anybody have any other ideas on what could possibly be causing the issue?

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Brought a Mk1.5 1.6 LX the other day and joined the forum.  Picking it up tomorrow.... Now I'm scared to drive it home after reading this thread.  Ha ha!  I did check the car out first of course but had to keep in mind that this car is 14 years old now and well under a grand.

Anyway, hope I get it home and then I can start checking all the little things and will probably start with replacing the coil, leads and plugs to be on the safe side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

Looking for a bit of advice.

Got a 2003 Focus 1.6 LX Auto which has just over 96000 miles on it.

Basically when I go to accelerate, which involves the kick down, it just isn't responsive, and doesn't really move anywhere (which is a massive pain when you're driving and want to accelerate quicker or overtake someone!!)

Does anyone know what this possibly could be?

Over all the engine is sound, and runs fine, it's just this gear box issue which is becoming a massive issue.

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys of got a problem with my mk1 tdci focus it revs slow and when it is gear and i drive it dosent go over 3.7 revs its like its lacking power turbo sounds ok and no noise what can it be??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The wiring loom going into the hatch from the roof has a tendency for the insulation on the wires to get brittle with time, this results in the wires snapping and shorting over, causing problems with the boot electrics.

Common symptoms are-

  1. Rear wiper not returning to it's park position on the intermittent wipe function.
  2. The high-level (third) brake light does not function.
  3. The boot lock opens itself when the engine is running leading on later to the boot lock not releasing when the interior button or keyfob button are pressed due to the lock solenoids burning out because of the constant power via a short circuit.
  4. Rear demister element stops working.

Pretty sure mine has some of those problems. Would love to get a quick guide on how to remedy them...

The interior boot release doesn't work and my fob doesn't either so it's a pain to unlock the boot without the key. I'll be getting a new fob soon so hopefully shouldn't be much more of a pain but I wouldn't mind the interior boot release to work. Where can I find the lock solenoids? Is it relatively easy? I'm a beginner to be honest. First car and all that.

Some of the rear demister elements are slow to work which may mean are on thier way out. Is this a replacement rear screen job or is there something easier I can try?

I think the rear bushes are perishing but I'll be getting my mechanic to do those for its MOT in Sept 2017.

Also above the 'cluster' is mentioned. The EML keeps coming on allbeit it is faded, and not a full light and only does it when it's cold which would maybe indicate an electrical issue rather than an Engine Management one.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On 09/10/2013 at 11:37 PM, Stoney871 said:

The wiring loom going into the hatch from the roof has a tendency for the insulation on the wires to get brittle with time, this results in the wires snapping and shorting over, causing problems with the boot electrics.

Common symptoms are-

  1. Rear wiper not returning to it's park position on the intermittent wipe function.
  2. The high-level (third) brake light does not function.
  3. The boot lock opens itself when the engine is running leading on later to the boot lock not releasing when the interior button or keyfob button are pressed due to the lock solenoids burning out because of the constant power via a short circuit.
  4. Rear demister element stops working.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all, first post, just got myself a mk1.5,  1.6 ghia, 185000 miles ,but you wouldn't know it to look at it, I have boot electrics issues I have, n/s brake light not working,( though tail light is) tried new bulb but no joy. 

High level brake light u/s

Boot lock u/s,  off key button and interior button. 

Rear demister 

Rear wiper

Are these all linked in any way?  All help greatfully received . 

Cheers all Jason 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello all, first post, just got myself a mk1.5,  1.6 ghia, 185000 miles ,but you wouldn't know it to look at it, I have boot electrics issues I have, n/s brake light not working,( though tail light is) tried new bulb but no joy. 
High level brake light u/s
Boot lock u/s,  off key button and interior button. 
Rear demister 
Rear wiper
Are these all linked in any way?  All help greatfully received . 
Cheers all Jason 


My OS brake isn't working but the NS and top one is... along with both rear tail lights. Poss a bulb. The connectors are usually at fault though so I've heard.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 02/01/2017 at 8:05 PM, clarkeehull said:

 


My OS brake isn't working but the NS and top one is... along with both rear tail lights. Poss a bulb. The connectors are usually at fault though so I've heard.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

 

Fixed the n/s brake light,  was a new bulb which was dodgy, different bulb, sorted.

 Now onto the blowers,  resistor arrived today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys I have focus mk1 1.6 Zetec. Really struggling to find out what's up with it!! Few months ago I drove 5 miles,went shopping for say 20 mins when I returned to car it wouldn't fire. The engine turned but didn't fire. Whilst waiting for a friend to arrive say 30 mins it started! About 5 weeks later I jumped in it from cold one night it done the same engine turning but not firing. Next day started first time! Couple weeks later it happened again this time in the hospital multi storey level 6!! Nightmare! Anyway got my friend to give me jump start and nothing. Throwing it down ramps and trying to bump it but nothing. Left there overnight. Next day started first turn of key! Had my alternator and battery checked was told alternator fine but battery had dead cell. Bought new Bosch s4 silver calcium put it in n few days later it wouldn't start again turning not firing. Gave it to local garage they had it 2 days and it started 1st time every time! Put code reader on it and nothing. They can't find anything wrong with it and I'm stumped and can't really use it as it'll prob happen again while I'm out. I must add the car is hardly being used in last few months could that have anything to do with it. Help please!! Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/24/2017 at 11:43 AM, Raffa123 said:

Hi guys I have focus mk1 1.6 Zetec. Really struggling to find out what's up with it!! Few months ago I drove 5 miles,went shopping for say 20 mins when I returned to car it wouldn't fire. The engine turned but didn't fire. Whilst waiting for a friend to arrive say 30 mins it started! About 5 weeks later I jumped in it from cold one night it done the same engine turning but not firing. Next day started first time! Couple weeks later it happened again this time in the hospital multi storey level 6!! Nightmare! Anyway got my friend to give me jump start and nothing. Throwing it down ramps and trying to bump it but nothing. Left there overnight. Next day started first turn of key! Had my alternator and battery checked was told alternator fine but battery had dead cell. Bought new Bosch s4 silver calcium put it in n few days later it wouldn't start again turning not firing. Gave it to local garage they had it 2 days and it started 1st time every time! Put code reader on it and nothing. They can't find anything wrong with it and I'm stumped and can't really use it as it'll prob happen again while I'm out. I must add the car is hardly being used in last few months could that have anything to do with it. Help please!! Cheers.

Id be looking at the coil pack and/or the camshaft positioning sensor. normally if its the coilpack it leads to poor running. The turning ouver but no firing sounds like a camshaft sensor to me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just dumped my 1.6 mk1.5 on my local EH dealer and to be fair, it was more reliable than the mk3 mondeo I had before it.  Not as nice to drive but far less time on the ramps.

 

Main issues I had were exhaust heatshield bolts TOTALLY rusted away (had to secure with milliput),

Front wipers not returning if wipers cancelled mid wipe.

Speed sensor (speedo would drop to 0 and accel/deceleration was VERY jerky at low speeds - On the upside the odo wouldn't record the miles covered while the sensor was out =])

Rear washer leaked into boot if held on for more than a few seconds - probably a simple fix but never invesitgated

Worst was the ECU crapping out due to coil pack fault.  That was a very expensive £400 resistor...

Front brake judder even on new discs/pads

Steering rack leaking fluid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all
I have been given a MkI which I have worked on for the previous owner and after failing the MOT he got a different car.

After completing all the items on the fail sheet, (Welding rear arches, front wishbone, rear bearing etc) I had it MOT'd on Tuesday which it failed on just the windscreen washer not working. 
I purchased a new pump and fitted it exactly as it was previously. 

The issue I have is the water comes out of the rear when I use the front wipers and out of the front when using the rear wipers. 

I don't know if this is an issue that has just come about or an old one from before the previous owner had it but I'm stumped.

I'm guessing there are a couple of solenoids as there is only one pump with two hoses coming out of it. 

any help in location them or what else the problem might be would be fantastic. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Andy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know for certain in an automotive application, but from experience of my actual job I'd agree and say there are wires crossed somewhere between switch and solenoid...

Or simply swap the hoses over on the pump =D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 06/07/2017 at 6:08 PM, Andy808 said:

I'm guessing there are a couple of solenoids as there is only one pump with two hoses coming out of it.

On the Mk2 Focus, the front/rear wash selection is done by reversing the direction of the pump motor. If it is a normal centrifugal pump, the direction of the outlet pipe (relative to the rotor rotation) will determine which one gets pressurised. If there are just one pair of wires to the pump, then it is likely to be the same for the Mk1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First post alert!

I've got a 2004 1.6 zetec which I've owned for three and a half years, absolutely love it, however it has been demoted from the family car to my commuting runaround (which admittedly means I get to have more fun in it :)).

Love the fact that the car is so reliable and so easy to fix when things do go wrong (including changing the expansion tank for £15 after a fun morning of driving through Hampstead with steam gushing out from under the bonnet!).

Have a few things which I still need to fix (one of which is that last summer I think the heater matrix sprung a slight leak which has become less of a problem over the past year), the important one being that anything which utilises the air conditioning compressor causes the engine (at idle) to stutter and then stall with a loud clicking noise coming from under the bonnet (which I'm pretty sure is coming from the compressor as it powers up and then disengages). For the past month I've been driving without the blower on any setting which might engage the compressor and it's been absolutely fine, with a bonus of stretching my MPG from an average of 37 to 43!

Has anyone else come across this, and if so did you find a fix? If it's just a case of replacing the compressor then that's not too bad, if it's a reset of the ECU then can I do that myself?

 

On a more positive note, I can answer this one!

On 18/05/2017 at 9:23 PM, Phil21185 said:

Rear washer leaked into boot if held on for more than a few seconds - probably a simple fix but never invesitgated

The washer pipe, located behind the top brake light, can be pushed loose from the sprayer. You just need to unscrew the top brake light cluster, push the pipe back onto the spigot and all is well :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Dymetrie said:

the important one being that anything which utilises the air conditioning compressor causes the engine (at idle) to stutter and then stall with a loud clicking noise coming from under the bonnet (which I'm pretty sure is coming from the compressor as it powers up and then disengages).

 

Ooh ooh I had this one too! Garage thought it was the compressor too. In the interim they unplugged it (easy to find cable running to the centre front of the engine bay) as putting the window demister on caused it to kick in automatically.  After a while I plugged it back in to see if it might have cured itself (yeah I know) and ended up snapping the auxiliary belt so that's a no no.

Sadly I never got round to replacing the compressor, though I did buy one online for about 15 quid. I simply ran it without until I traded it in earlier this year...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Dymetrie said:

anything which utilises the air conditioning compressor causes the engine (at idle) to stutter and then stall with a loud clicking noise coming from under the bonnet

I think Phil's garage had the right idea, disconnect it, or remove the A/C fuse.

If the compressor has failed internally, then it will have contaminated the a/c system with debris. Cleaning that out is a long and, at a garage, expensive job. Then it may be necessary to replace the de-humidifier. Then pressure test, evacuate & refill the system. So even if you can get a cheap compressor, it is not a very cheap job.

To test a compressor, I think I would remove the aux belt, engage the compressor clutch, and try turning it by hand. If if feels and sounds horrible, then it is dead! I think the compressor clutch will engage just with the ignition & a/c on, but have not tried this. Otherwise the engine should run ok (for a few minutes) without the belt (as long as the water pump is not on the aux belt), or disconnect the clutch & hook up 12v to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm. You'd think after 110 years of building cars, there shouldn't be any such thing as a 'common fault'...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Ooh ooh I had this one too! Garage thought it was the compressor too. In the interim they unplugged it (easy to find cable running to the centre front of the engine bay) as putting the window demister on caused it to kick in automatically.  After a while I plugged it back in to see if it might have cured itself (yeah I know) and ended up snapping the auxiliary belt so that's a no no.

Sadly I never got round to replacing the compressor, though I did buy one online for about 15 quid. I simply ran it without until I traded it in earlier this year...

 

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I think Phil's garage had the right idea, disconnect it, or remove the A/C fuse.

If the compressor has failed internally, then it will have contaminated the a/c system with debris. Cleaning that out is a long and, at a garage, expensive job. Then it may be necessary to replace the de-humidifier. Then pressure test, evacuate & refill the system. So even if you can get a cheap compressor, it is not a very cheap job.

To test a compressor, I think I would remove the aux belt, engage the compressor clutch, and try turning it by hand. If if feels and sounds horrible, then it is dead! I think the compressor clutch will engage just with the ignition & a/c on, but have not tried this. Otherwise the engine should run ok (for a few minutes) without the belt (as long as the water pump is not on the aux belt), or disconnect the clutch & hook up 12v to it.

Thanks, gents :)

From the sound it makes, it's like the compressor is shorting out, which is then putting pressure on the electrical system and the ECU is trying to compensate but failing.

In the short term I'll look to disconnect it so that I can run the demister without fear of stalling (or messing with my newfound awesome fuel economy!) and hope it hasn't contaminated the entire system and a simple replacement part will fix it completely.

Next thing in the list is to find where the hose for the drivers side blower has come loose so that I can get some cool air on my face, again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/08/2017 at 6:47 PM, Phil21185 said:

How did you get on bud?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

Annoyingly, between work and entertaining the kids I haven't had a chance to get under the bonnet to even try and find what to disconnect :(

 

Managed to wipe the dust off the dashboard the other day, though :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Iirc, you don't have to go under the car. It's visible more or less in the centre at the front of the engine bay, though quite low down.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi I have a 02 tddi estate .love the car but has a oil leak from sort of fuel pump area any ideas.ps just had belt and front crankshaft oil seal done

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dont know if it is worth a mention, mk1 02 focus 1.8 ghia tddi wiring going into the egr connector has become brittle and broke away from connector, to be fair though the car is 15 yrs old though, Bodywork still in good nick. Small spot of rust on corner of outer sill, a bit more on inner sills though, one clutch and timing belt replacement in its life and still on the factory fitted exhaust so no real complaints on it longevity. Now its a non start 😣 fuel pump and timing tension mentioned in Forscan so it needs a bit investigation or sent to the big scrappy in the sky.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now