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Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

focus ford mk2 common problems

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#1 jamesm182

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 04:32 PM

Hi all,

 

In a similar style to the MK1 Focus thread I started yesterday I am also looking for common problems on MK2 Focus models. I will also be looking to eventually put together a buyers guide for these models so any feedback you could give would be much appreciated!  :)

 

James



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#2 artscot79

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 07:41 PM

Rear light clustets boot hinges and spoiler seal all leak tell tale signs is a damp or wet boot process of elimination though its best to use quality sealant and seal all 3 suspected areas.

Power steering hose just behind the radiator and at the join to the pump are prone to leaks from corrosion recommend every 6 months applying grease to the area such as vaseline to prevent this.

Noisy aircon pumps can be from either the bearing or the system needing regassed since the regass is cheap its best trying this first also the ti vct uses a different aircon pump a vss pump which varies the gas so it does not click on and off regularly like older pumps but runs continously.

The heated windscreen can fail on one side either its a simple fuse issue to which there are 2 1 for each side or some cars under the scuttle panel have the electrical ribbon loose which gets rubbed by the wipers when in motion causing it to fail.

Rear hatch gathers water so when it rains and the boots opened water pours in ford sell 2 self adhesive plastic strips which is supposed to address this issue it helps but doesnt prevent it happening.

The design of the door seals means after or during rain once the doors opened water runs into the car there is no fix and its a common issue on the mk2

The aircon drain can get blocked or detatch allowing water into the dtlriver footwell the drain is found behind the plastic panel at the drivers left leg a poke through with a wire hanger usually clears it if loose its best to reattatch with silicone.

Dash displays stay lit after the car is locked for between 20-40 minutes the ecu remains live storing vehicle data for this period of time monitoring under bonnet temperatures once the ecu shuts down the display remains off displays which stay on for long periods such as overnight usually have pcm issues which bbereman can repair cheap.

Despite fords its galvanised claims the focus rusts particularly on the front and rear sills as well as front and rear arches therefore its imperative you deal with paint chips pretty quickly.

Rear bushes like the mk1 are prone to wear around the 5 year mark some are easy to change some are not.

The ti vct can go into limp mode with no power this can be either the ti vct timing relays on top of the engine or the cam itself the cam unit is not easy or cheap to repair so should be left to a dealer the cambelt will also need replaced during this average cost £500 minimum.

Worn or cheap brake pads and disks can cause a distinct click when braking.

A noise like a knock or thump between 10-15 mph is the abs test and is normal should happen only once usually when first using the car.

Poor idle can be due to the pcv valve needing replaced the springs weaken and can gunge up for the sake of £10 its best to replace this.

Rear drums prone to sticking in cold damp weather a clunk will be heard from the rear as it unsticks getting under the rear and spraying wd40 on the rear handbrake cables both sides before winter sets in can cure if not help this.

Paint removal on the sills lower doors front and rear is common a plastic protector should be attatched though this helps its advised to fit mudflaps even this will not stop road salt blasting paint away but reduces the effects dramatically.

Wind noise from the front windows is common often sounds like the window is open slightly when its not ford have no fix for this the mk2.5 recieved thicker door seals and glass to prevent this.

Rattles from under the car more often than not are loose heatshields or a broken rear or midfle exhaust hanger a new exhaust is not needed since the hanger detatches at the exhaust removing from the hanging rubber and buying a bracket clamp from ebay for £8 solves the issue and is easy to fit.

Rear washers not working can be a detatched hose inside the spoiler or a detatched hose in the car at the driver rear in the headlining where it stops at the boot

For winter a good screenwash used pure down to -10 -20 such as preston is needed as the screenwash bottle is under the wheel arch liner and will freeze heated washers wont defrost this.

 

leaky washer jets is common upgraded parts available but still leak only answer is to silicone them

Check all electrics work as they should let the car idle and sit in it any bad shudders could indicate the coil pack plugs and leads need replaced to solve misfires its best to do all 3 and use dielectric grease on the spark plug terminals at the plugs and coil pack.

Dpf failures are common and expensive however its possible to get companies to remove the dpf fault by removing the dpf altogether saving a small fortune and endless headache

Diesel issues ill leave to the diesel owners



#3 Stoney871

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:31 PM

Hoses from the intercooler to the turbo can split or collapse.
Dirty fuel filters bring up an engine fault light.
If the fuel filter seal is not replaced at the same time as a filter change it can cause air in the fuel line and problematic starting.
Original Ford fuel filters are a must.

Badly designed bonnet locks can cause problems with opening.

#4 jamesm182

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 11:44 AM

Thanks guys much appreciated



#5 Stoney871

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 12:49 PM

I think I cursed myself with mentioning the intercooler hose.
It's happened to mine yesterday.
Sod's law.

#6 tommy1340millar

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 01:36 AM

I think I cursed myself with mentioning the intercooler hose.
It's happened to mine yesterday.
Sod's law.

 ditto here :(



#7 Stoney871

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 02:34 AM

I reckon Ford have a master switch somewhere.
Warranty expired - 'click', 80k on the clock - 'click', bit short of cash one month- 'kill switch'.
Rotten swine ;)

#8 leggy666

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 10:37 AM

Hi I am new to this site I have a 2005 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec and I am currently having a problem where in the morning the battery light comes on when i rev it first thing and stays on for about 20mins during this time the lights dim down and go bright again. I have just put a new Silver Calcium battery on from Ford as the one before was a normal battery. The wires in the connector going into the alternator was showing bare metal and had them repaired. The alternator on it is a reconditioned 105 amp which i had put on about 10 months ago not sure if its a genuine ford one. Any info would be greatly appreciated.



#9 Carl0s

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 08:43 PM

Dont know it this is common, i know 2 cases + mine so go figure... ~300 000km on the clock. Regulary serviced by the book at the dealer. During the yearly inspection, when they measure the emissions and redline the engine, you start to hear knocking from the engine. Cause: 1 or more Camfollowers are worn out. Mine had all 16, the guy that sold me the injectors had 6 and the third was peugeot whit the same engine and it had all 16 also. 

 

When the camfollowers were worn out, and the engine is revved they can "jump" out between the cam, the follower and the valve, and after that they start to spin around in the valvetrain. Result = Busted camshafts, busted valves, and ofc, the worn out followers that were 60e each... and you have 16 of those... 

 

Ironicly the service shedule ends on 280k km... :D 



#10 luke.grimbley

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 03:47 PM

Problem with the ABS self test on Mk2's. First time you hit 12mph after you first start the car the ABS will self test (same time as the seat belt alarm goes off).It is quite common this will be accompanied by a noticeable clunk and sometimes a rather scary grinding noise. Ford are aware of the problem but will not recall or look at it under warranty as they claim it is not a safety concern and will not harm the car.

 

Think there is a thread open on this site about this but it was just to make more people aware

 

Luke



#11 Birch_RB

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 01:39 PM

Hi all,

 

I have recently bought a 2010 (60 plate) Black Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 Petrol- overall happy with it but have noticed a distinct clunk or more of a spinging noise when i change from 1st to 2nd gear. It doesn't happen everytime but i recon about 70% of the time i hear this noise, i have taken it to the garage they can't see any problems with it and they have taken it for a drive and have not heard to noise. Has anyone had a similar problem of know if this is a common problem?

 

It sounds like it is coming right out of the drivers footwell and it is loud enough for a passenger to hear as they have noticed it too.

 

Any help/ advise would be greatly apprecaited.

 

Thank you.



#12 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 03:13 PM

Thats the ABS self test as discussed one post above your question ;)



#13 Birch_RB

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 03:42 PM

Thank you everyone you have put my mind at ease :)



#14 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 03:53 PM

No worries :)



#15 shaun2111

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 12:50 AM

Can anybody help me here.

I have a 59 plate st 40,000 mile and I have a grinding noise at low speeds 0 to 30 miles a hour coming from passenger wheel. I was thinking it was a wheel bearing but had it at garage and says there's nothing wrong wi it but it's getting a little worse as weeks go on. Thanks

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