Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

[webby37]

Hi All. I have sold my 2009 Zetec S TDCI and bought a  1.8 2009 Focus Titanium TDCI, mainly for extra space. It has the uphill assist thing going  on though not sure it works as if I let my handbrake off on a hill it rolls back.

 

Anyhow, my issue is the engine. So you guys all know it's a duratec and i need to know if there are known issues with it? It's done 72000 miles, one retired owner from new, FSH so pretty clean. However, it drives pretty badly in that it holds back in first and second gear but once it gets going it's smooth. If I put my foot down hard through the gears, in 3rd and sometimes 2nd, it hits 3000 revs then nothing, like it's in limp mode, but it isn't because if you back off for a second or 2, the power is there again. I am getting about 47 mpg average on a run, which is way down on the Fiesta's 60 mpg but not sure if that's about right or the possible problem I am having is lowering the mpg. I know I need to get ti to a garage for a plug in check, but wondered if anyone else has had this issue or knows what the possible cause could be

 

Thanks in advance

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, webby37 said:

So you guys all know it's a duratec and i need to know if there are known issues with it? It's done 72000 miles,

Just a minute, the Duratec is the petrol 1.8! Can you confirm it is the diesel (Duratorq) 1.8TDCI?

Assuming it is the diesel (and 47mpg would be very good for the petrol 1.8 !), then 2 things to look out for are the injectors, and the lower timing belt.

There was a bad batch of injectors for the whole 1.8TDCI family in 2008, that may affect some 2009 models. There is a batch number ending in 3 on the questionable ones. There is more info on this site.

The earlier 1.8TDCIs had a lower timing chain, and an upper belt. The chain was replaced by a 2nd belt in about 2007. Although the official service life is 100k & 10 years, If I recall, there have been reported failures earlier. And some garages do not seem to know about the change, and do not service the lower belt, which is a much harder job to replace than the upper belt. At 72k this is probably close to needing doing.

I rarely take my 1.8 much over 3000rpm, there is not much point as max torque is 1900rpm, and although max power is about 4000, there is not a lot to be gained by holding in the lower gear. But it does go smoothly through the 3000 mark. So I am not sure what would cause that. The turbo should be fully up to speed before 2000rpm, so it would not seem to be that.

Air filter & fuel filter are two simple things to try changing if they are of unknown make, age or condition.

A garage check may well not reveal much, as they can not do any power tests unless they have a (very rare) dynamometer. A system like Forscan is available for as little as £16, and allows you to log Turbo boost and many other parameters while driving, under real conditions.

 

[webby37]

Must be a Duratorq engine as it is definitely a diesel. I did look at the engine without my glasses on so that may explain it....

 

Great information, thank you. It has a FSH and was serviced not long before I bought it so I can only imagine the air and fuel filters have been changed recently. 

 

I'll have a check of the injectors, I'll check the site to find out where the batch number is on the injector.

I did notice this morning that from cold it didn't seem to hold back at all but started when the car warmed up so i'll have to investigate that further too but i'll check the things you mention.

To use Forscan, do I need other tools, like a laptop? I have googled it and can see it's a download but imagine you have to have something plugged into the car while you are actually driving

[TomsFocus]

This shape Focus doesn't have hill hold assist, it was the Mk3 (2011 on) that got that feature...  

You need a laptop, tablet or smartphone to use FORScan.

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, webby37 said:

To use Forscan, do I need other tools, like a laptop?

This is my standard intro to Forscan:

Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

The Tunnelrat ELM327s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig.

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992
or
https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM.  Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations.

Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster).

The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from:
http://forscan.org/download.html

Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

-----------------

I can guide you through the process of doing data logs while driving if you wish. It is a bit fiddly to set up, but once running should not interfere with or distract from driving the car.

Here is a link to some info on the injectors:

It is a bit long and confusing in places. But the symptoms you describe do not match up with the symptoms described for this injector failure. It is usually hesitations under acceleration, followed by the MIL coming on with injector error codes stored.

So hopefully this does not apply to your car!

Re MPG: I got 56 on a m/way run this summer. My normal mileage is no m/way, about one third is with a trailer & heavy load, quite a lot on little lanes, and some short trips, with just a few decent main road runs. Even there I get about 50 mpg in summer, 47mpg in winter.

So if your 47 is on a decent main road run, that is a little low.

[Tdci-Peter]

19 hours ago, webby37 said:

known issues with it

Another note on the lower (wet) timing belt. I just looked at one thread on this, and a mechanic said Ford changed back to the chain on the '09 engine. You should be able to check with Etis, or a main dealer or spares site, which system your engine has.

See:

 

[webby37]

On 11/16/2017 at 9:49 AM, TomsFocus said:

This shape Focus doesn't have hill hold assist, it was the Mk3 (2011 on) that got that feature...  

You need a laptop, tablet or smartphone to use FORScan.

Thanks for the info. The car was advertised with Hill start assist, which is why I mentioned it. I did wonder why the car rolled back on a hill .I guess it's best not to believe all you are told

[webby37]

On 11/16/2017 at 11:26 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

This is my standard intro to Forscan:

Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

The Tunnelrat ELM327s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig.

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992
or
https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM.  Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or Bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations.

Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster).

The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from:
http://forscan.org/download.html

Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

-----------------

I can guide you through the process of doing data logs while driving if you wish. It is a bit fiddly to set up, but once running should not interfere with or distract from driving the car.

Here is a link to some info on the injectors:

It is a bit long and confusing in places. But the symptoms you describe do not match up with the symptoms described for this injector failure. It is usually hesitations under acceleration, followed by the MIL coming on with injector error codes stored.

So hopefully this does not apply to your car!

Re MPG: I got 56 on a m/way run this summer. My normal mileage is no m/way, about one third is with a trailer & heavy load, quite a lot on little lanes, and some short trips, with just a few decent main road runs. Even there I get about 50 mpg in summer, 47mpg in winter.

So if your 47 is on a decent main road run, that is a little low.

Thank you for the info, I appreciate it

[webby37]

So just an update. I have got to the point now that if I accelerate in any gear to anywhere near 3000 rpm and sometimes 2500 rpm, I lose power as in it feels like the engine has run out of steam. As soon as I back off the accelerator, then put my foot down again, it picks up and can accelerate again. I need to get it into a garage at some point but wonder if anyone else has had the same problem on their 1.8 TDCI?

[Stevesixty7]

On 15/11/2017 at 6:10 PM, webby37 said:

Hi All. I have sold my 2009 Zetec S TDCI and bought a  1.8 2009 Focus Titanium TDCI, mainly for extra space. It has the uphill assist thing going  on though not sure it works as if I let my handbrake off on a hill it rolls back.

 

Anyhow, my issue is the engine. So you guys all know it's a duratec and i need to know if there are known issues with it? It's done 72000 miles, one retired owner from new, FSH so pretty clean. However, it drives pretty badly in that it holds back in first and second gear but once it gets going it's smooth. If I put my foot down hard through the gears, in 3rd and sometimes 2nd, it hits 3000 revs then nothing, like it's in limp mode, but it isn't because if you back off for a second or 2, the power is there again. I am getting about 47 mpg average on a run, which is way down on the Fiesta's 60 mpg but not sure if that's about right or the possible problem I am having is lowering the mpg. I know I need to get ti to a garage for a plug in check, but wondered if anyone else has had this issue or knows what the possible cause could be

 

Thanks in advance

I can't help with you engine issues I'm afraid, but as for the uphill assist, I have a 17 plate company van that has it and I have never tried it using the handbrake on a hill (I will now) but using the foot brake it works a treat. Hold on foot brake, release and it will hold it for a couple of seconds, but it will release when you lift the clutch so there is no way you can roll back. Not something I've ever needed to be honest but it is a good feature.

[Tdci-Peter]

20 hours ago, webby37 said:

if I accelerate in any gear to anywhere near 3000 rpm and sometimes 2500 rpm, I lose power as in it feels like the engine has run out of steam. As soon as I back off the accelerator, then put my foot down again, it picks up and can accelerate again.

And no lights or messages? Odd one that. A sticky turbo actuator could do it, it will back right off when you release the accelerator, then come in quickly when you put your foot down, so may get past the sticky bit. But then I would expect to see an error like P0299. On my car, that error puts the Engine Systems lamp on, but only till the next ignition off/on cycle. Also it does not show up on a standard OBD2 code reader, only on a Ford specific system like Forscan.

It is hard to come up with other logical faults: Fuel starvation due to air ingress or clogged filter should also give error codes, and would not go away so readily. Same with air flow, MAF or MAP problems. Might be worth checking the turbo hoses for leaks and splits though. (From turbo, via intercooler to inlet manifold).

You could check for smoke when in the losing power state, or do an in depth (not just standard OBD) error code read.

On my car I can get P0299 quite regularly by making it work a bit too hard at low RPM (1500 or below). That might be a dodgy turbo actuator, but it could be just clogged inlet manifold passages due to EGR over 160k miles of use! It has no noticeable effect on driving though.

[webby37]

32 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

And no lights or messages? Odd one that. A sticky turbo actuator could do it, it will back right off when you release the accelerator, then come in quickly when you put your foot down, so may get past the sticky bit. But then I would expect to see an error like P0299. On my car, that error puts the Engine Systems lamp on, but only till the next ignition off/on cycle. Also it does not show up on a standard OBD2 code reader, only on a Ford specific system like Forscan.

It is hard to come up with other logical faults: Fuel starvation due to air ingress or clogged filter should also give error codes, and would not go away so readily. Same with air flow, MAF or MAP problems. Might be worth checking the turbo hoses for leaks and splits though. (From turbo, via intercooler to inlet manifold).

You could check for smoke when in the losing power state, or do an in depth (not just standard OBD) error code read.

On my car I can get P0299 quite regularly by making it work a bit too hard at low RPM (1500 or below). That might be a dodgy turbo actuator, but it could be just clogged inlet manifold passages due to EGR over 160k miles of use! It has no noticeable effect on driving though.

So last night on the way home, when the power went, I kept my foot on the accelerator to see if it would clear itself and the Engine Malfunction triangle light came on as well as the ESP light? The light that has the car and the skid marks behind it. I pulled over, turned the engine off and waited a couple of minutes. Restarted the car and it drove normally again and all the lights had gone out. Suffice to say I haven't put my foot down since and I am going to book a visit to my local garage

[Hobgoblinpie]

My Car has developed a strange fault, so I'm going to give a precise rundown of events. I'll try to be as brief as I can without sacrificing crucial detail.

I bought the car back in October, and there seemed to be no problems. After about 2 weeks it develops an 'Engine Systems Fault' which reduces the acceleration mostly in gears 1 and 2, but also makes smooth gear changes very difficult without intentionally slipping the clutch. I check the oil level, and it's incredibly low (barely on the dipstick at all) which was odd given that it was 3/4 of the way between the low and high parts of the dipstick. I fill it up with a generous amount to bring it back to that level, but the engine fault doesn't disappear immediately. Later that evening, the check engine advisory light comes on, followed sometimes with the Engine Systems Fault, sometimes not. I bring the car home, and the second time I use the car it disappears for good (until this last week). 

A pipe from the engine that connects to the airbox was loose, which I assume is letting out oil vapour, and has now (as of 3 days ago) been repaired. I didn't however check the actual error code, because seeing that it was so low on oil I assumed that would be it - and the oil 'fixed' the issue so I thought nothing of it. Note however that no Low Oil light ever came up.

Cut to last week where the dreaded Engine Systems Fault comes up. I assume the same issue, and check the oil. The oil is now just under the low marking, but not at the real of being too worrying, so I just add some more. This doesn't solve the issue and it comes up 75% of the time I go out driving, but only seems to come up when I'm either braking or stopped (never when accelerating). As before, it reduces acceleration and makes it more annoying to drive so I put it in for repairs, since it now comes up 100% of the time. The garage determine it to be a throttle error, and order in a new throttle pedal. They try it, but the car has exactly the same issue, so it's not the throttle pedal assembly. I drive it away from the garage, and 500m down the road the Engine Systems Fault comes on, but the throttle cuts out completely. I turn it off, turn it back on again, and it seems to work so I head back to my destination. When I return to my car, the throttle has once again died, but this time I can't revive it. I call the AA, the guy comes out and reads the error codes (P2121), but when taking the throttle off and diagnosing, we can both clearly see that the throttle itself works. I drive it back to the garage with the AA guy following me and no problems - the issue didn't come back. I sit in the car with the engine on for 30 minutes, and the fault doesn't come back, so I chance it back to my house. AA guy basically states he has literally no idea what's wrong with the car, since the error code is wrong as the part clearly works.

I've driven it around today for a decently long drive, and the error hasn't resurfaced. However I'm just assuming it will come back with a vengeance any time now. Until the error code resurfaces I'm not taking it to a garage since I'll be billed for essentially wasted time. 

My thoughts are either Instrument Cluster problem, ECU problem, or wiring problem. 

Any thoughts or ideas are much appreciated.

[Hobgoblinpie]

Can't edit the post, so adding an update. Today the same thing happened where the throttle stopped working completely. I was at the crest of a hill so had to keep going. I pulled over between two roundabouts, turned the car off then back on again. The throttle still didn't work (or wasn't detected, since the pedal did absolutely nothing). I was pretty close to home so decided to chance it, and these two roundabouts were going downhill anyway so thought I could pick up some decent speed. Once I got to 4 or 5mph, the throttle started working again (I had it fully pressed in hopes that it might work anyway) and the car drove as normal, but with the Engine Systems Fault message on.

Anyone have any ideas why reaching a certain speed would cause the throttle to re-engage?

I'm going to either do diagnostics on it myself with Forscan (need to buy the cable), or take it to the main dealer. I'll likely do diagnostics myself first, but apart from that everything in the car seems mechanically and electrically sound, so I'm at a real loss. I'd prefer to keep the car, but I don't want to sink £1k into a car barely worth just over that.

[Tdci-Peter]

20 hours ago, Hobgoblinpie said:

reads the error codes (P2121)

P2121: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'D' Circuit Range/Performance.

I saw a similar error code on a FIesta:

P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A/B Voltage Correlation.

This turned out to be a problem with the throttle body (it was petrol) not the accelerator pedal position sensor.

The / means either, not just Throttle Pedal, which is not a term Ford usually use. They use accelerator pedal (APP).

The garage assumed it was pedal, and changed it to no effect.

Another possibility is alternator. A neighbour of mine with a Renault van had a problem where sometimes after starting, it simply ignored the pedal. But the alternator warning light was on, and the voltage was clearly dodgy, so this is less likely for you, but I would check the battery voltage with engine running, for a steady 14v or thereabouts.

Forscan is a good idea. It will tell you which module the error is in. The pedal goes to both the IC and the PCM (2 separate sensors). It will also display the real time readings, possibly from both sensors.

A modified ELM327 is best, this can read all modules in the car, though in this case all the modules likely to be involved are on the HS CAN bus, so a non-modified ELM would suffice. Have a look at:

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992
or
https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

 

 

 

 

[Hobgoblinpie]

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

t the accelerator pedal position sensor.

The / means either, not just Throttle Pedal, which is not a term Ford usually use. They use accelerator pedal (APP).

The garage assumed it was pedal, and changed it to no effect.

Another possibility is alternator. A neighbour of mine with a Renault van had a problem where sometimes after starting, it simply ignored the pedal. But the alternator warning light was on, and the voltage was clearly dodgy, so this is less likely for you, but I would check the battery voltage with engine running, for a steady 14v or thereabouts.

Thanks for replying Peter - appreciate the advice. I tested the battery and when running it was between 13.8-14.1 volts, which I assume is within the normal range. The garage I went to before read the faults (they diagnosed two since the Engine Malfunction light was on, but unfortunately didn't bother to inform me exactly what the code was) as Intrument Cluster and PCM. Given that the Engine Malfunction light only seems to come on after many cycles of the P2121 error happening, I can only assume that whichever module is linked to that is the one being affected.

I'll get the cable and try a read out for myself of course, but that would seemingly indicate a problem with the Instrument Cluster (which if I recall correctly is a common problem with MK2 Focus'), or possibly even just faulty wiring? I'm reticent to hand it over to a garage, because they couldn't even properly diagnose it, and just came back to with me with a lot of 'maybe this, maybe that'. 

The main reason I'm not so sure about the Instrument Cluster is that as far as I can tell literally no one on the internet has experienced this exact same fault, except a guy in a Mondeo 2 years ago. £100-£150 isn't that much to Shell out for a repair, but it is if it turns out that it isn't at fault anyway.

[Tdci-Peter]

21 minutes ago, Hobgoblinpie said:

The main reason I'm not so sure about the Instrument Cluster is that as far as I can tell literally no one on the internet has experienced this exact same fault, except a guy in a Mondeo 2 years ago. £100-£150 isn't that much to shell out for a repair, but it is if it turns out that it isn't at fault anyway.

The Focus 2006 IC is notorious, I know, it caught me! But this does not sound like the classic problem. However, the main problem for the IC is the soldering of the 32 pin connector onto the pcb. And the APP (accelerator pedal position sensor) does go through this connector to the IC.

Is your car diesel or petrol? That would rule out the throttle body if diesel.

Too true that £100 is a lot if the IC is not the problem, added to which there is always the uncertainty that it is the problem, but the repairer did not spot or cure it. I would, if at all possible, delay until running some Forscan diagnostics, before committing.

If it looks like a wiring problem to the APP, then the Focus wiring diagram is on this site, and I can help locate the various connectors etc.

 

[Hobgoblinpie]

40 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The Focus 2006 IC is notorious, I know, it caught me! But this does not sound like the classic problem. However, the main problem for the IC is the soldering of the 32 pin connector onto the pcb. And the APP (accelerator pedal position sensor) does go through this connector to the IC.

Is your car diesel or petrol? That would rule out the throttle body if diesel.

Too true that £100 is a lot if the IC is not the problem, added to which there is always the uncertainty that it is the problem, but the repairer did not spot or cure it. I would, if at all possible, delay until running some Forscan diagnostics, before committing.

If it looks like a wiring problem to the APP, then the Focus wiring diagram is on this site, and I can help locate the various connectors etc.

It's a 1.6 Petrol (the less powerful of the two 1.6L 2007 Focus), so unfortunately that doesn't rule it out. I've ordered the modified ELM327 cable that you recommended, so unless it's wiring issue (going to do a basic inspection tomorrow during the day, to see if there's anything obvious) I'll have to wait until then. 

Thanks for the advice btw, I really appreciate it!

[Bob, Focus it's 2006]

I just brought a 2006 focus tdci 1.6 with over 210,100 miles on it starts wobbling or sporadically choking as the engine reaches optimal temperature. This never happen when it's cold. It happens when idle and when cruising at say 30mph with no depressed pedals. You just notice inconsistencies in the standard diesel feedback. 

As it gets worse, if I carry on driving, it goes in to limp home mode. (At this time if I floor it or try to pick up speed a horrid smell occurs). The going in to limp home mode usually coincides with a semi bad gear change so not sure it's to do with that.beed told by amateurs that it could be flywheel related. My research leads me to a clogged or dirty throttle body, a problem with the exhaust re-circulation system and the dual mass flywheel but we haven't reached a conclusion yet. I'm no expert but non of these sound  consistent with the fact that the car runs like a dream when cold and leading up to that optimal temperature.

A mechaniic is looking at it tomorrow so hopefully it's nothing major. 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated by the old girl

[Tdci-Peter]

4 hours ago, Bob, Focus it's 2006 said:

(At this time if I floor it or try to pick up speed a horrid smell occurs). The going in to limp home mode usually coincides with a semi bad gear change so not sure it's to do with that.beed told by amateurs that it could be flywheel related. My research leads me to a clogged or dirty throttle body, a problem with the exhaust re-circulation system and the dual mass flywheel but we haven't reached a conclusion yet.

The 1.6TDCI does have a throttle, possibly two. But they are not used like the throttle body in a petrol engine. Usually the main throttle is fully open, and it is only closed when stopping the engine (anti-judder), or maybe in conjunction with the EGR to boost EGR flow, or during regen to increase exhaust temperature. The second valve, it is has one, in an intercooler bypass valve, for DPF regen only, I believe.

But if the main throttle did close at the wrong time, it would lose power, and you would get greatly increased engine braking when cruising with no pedal being touched. There are not many other engine faults that will slow the car down while on overdrive (no pedal).

If it was going into "limp" mode, then a warning light should always be on, and an error code stored, that can be read by an in-depth scanner. With no light, it means a loss of power directly due to a malfunction, that is not being properly detected by the ECU, "Limp" mode is a deliberate reduced power mode to save further damage, and there will be an indication.

If the horrid smell is like a gas tap being left on, it might be clutch related, clutch slip most likely. I had a foul pong like that for days after a garage cooked my clutch trying to do a test. It seems to have survived it so far, though!

That is a very good mileage for a 1.6TDCI, it must have been well looked after for most of it, as they are sensitive to neglect.

 

[Hobgoblinpie]

I received the Tunnelrat cable today, and have been fiddling around with it in order to diagnose my car better, here are the codes that were already on the system:

PCM: P0532-62

PCM: P2121-E1

OBDII: P2121-C

IC: C1750-20

ACM: U0155-20

ACM: U0140-20

 

Of these, I can discount a few of these codes (I purposefully removed an AC connection to test it, and installed a new radio). So the ones left would be:

P2121-E1

P2121-P

Any ideas on what the extra extensions to the codes are? I sprayed some contact cleaner on what seems to be the TPS (the outside, where it connects to the throttle body) but I can't for the life of me seem to remove the connector, it's like it's melded into the plastic housing. Forscan shows a possible cause may be 'Slow responding APP Sensor due to contamination', but I fully believe it's the TPS that's contaminated.

I don't have an idea how to separate the connectors though, I've tried using two carefully placed screwdrivers to declip them, but nothing. Does the TPS need to be removed from the Throttle Body itself? (Held on by two torx bolts by the looks of it)

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Hobgoblinpie said:

P2121-E1

P2121-P

Any ideas on what the extra extensions to the codes are? I sprayed some contact cleaner on what seems to be the TPS (the outside, where it connects to the throttle body) but I can't for the life of me seem to remove the connector, it's like it's melded into the plastic housing. Forscan shows a possible cause may be 'Slow responding APP Sensor due to contamination', but I fully believe it's the TPS that's contaminated.

I think the extensions give information about whether the error is currently present or not, and if the MIL is lit for it, among other things. But I have never really looked at them. Forscan does give some info like this.

The C1750 code is interesting, but may be misleading. It suggests the IC has also received bad APP data. The APP goes to both the PCM & IC for safety reasons, it is a duplicated system, using different methods for both signals to avoid common cause failure. The PCM then gets the data from the IC, and compares the two.

An thread about a Focus RS with C1750 suggested that a software reset was needed. Forscan can do a module reset, though I have not experimented with it!

https://passionford.com/forum/technical-help-q-and-a/476162-ford-focus-rs-fault-codes-ford-techs-pls-help.html

The TPS connector should have a little tab that needs pressing in. I often find most of these connectors very difficult to remove first time, especially if you can not get a good view. A view of the connector is below.

Forscan can give real time display of pedal position (ign on, engine does not need to be running), and probably throttle TPS reading, though that may need the engine running. I can give a little help on setting it up if needed.

 

[Hobgoblinpie]

On 06/12/2017 at 1:04 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

The TPS connector should have a little tab that needs pressing in. I often find most of these connectors very difficult to remove first time, especially if you can not get a good view. A view of the connector is below.

Forscan can give real time display of pedal position (ign on, engine does not need to be running), and probably throttle TPS reading, though that may need the engine running. I can give a little help on setting it up if needed.

I'm going to have to remove the air intake pipe (only held on by two jubilee clips, so not a big deal) in order to get to the connector, but given how tough it is I may have to remove the entire TPS in order to just disconnect it. Is there a secret to it? lol

The Pedal Position real time display would be great, and TPS if possible. At least if it shows the pedal as working but the throttle not, I can narrow down the problem. Thanks again!

[Tdci-Peter]

12 hours ago, Hobgoblinpie said:

remove the entire TPS in order to just disconnect it. Is there a secret to it? lol

There usually is a secret to removing car connectors, but it is closely guarded!

Sometimes there is an access slot that a small screwdriver goes in parallel to the connector, sometimes there is a hole on top of the tab, to press it in, or even to lever it outwards, sometimes, like with my headlight connectors, the screwdriver goes in a slot at right-angles to the connector, and twists to lever open the tab. I just fiddle until there is a click, and it suddenly falls apart. Brute force is not usually needed or advised!

 

To measure APP etc. in Forscan, you need to connect to the car: Plug in, ignition on, and press the connect button. Then go to the read PID data section (graph icon), click the setup button at the bottom (spikey wheel), then highlight PIDs you want (Like TPS, RPM, APP etc), and click on an arrow to move them into the other column. Then just click on the start button. (Hope I have remembered all the steps!)

The list of PIDs varies with each engine type, mine will be different to yours. The APP PID(s) should work with engine stopped (it does on mine), but most others will only come to life with the engine running.

You can log data while driving, just ensure the phone / computer is safe, and also the cable. Setup & start recording while stationary, drive, stop then press stop, save the data (don't forget that bit!), then review at leisure. I have done runs up to about 45 minutes like this. It does not need connection to the car to replay data.

An example of the graph display is:

[Hobgoblinpie]

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

You can log data while driving, just ensure the phone / computer is safe, and also the cable. Setup & start recording while stationary, drive, stop then press stop, save the data (don't forget that bit!), then review at leisure. I have done runs up to about 45 minutes like this. It does not connection to the car to replay data.

Thanks again, I'll try to have a go whilst stationary tonight. The fault is worse now, I can't get it to see the throttle at all. I'll try to test the APP and if it gets a signal, then TPS is the likely cuplrit. I saw a thread on a different forum about a guy who's having a similar problem, suggesting that the TPS & Wiring might be the problem (due to corrosion, wear etc). 

http://www.justanswer.co.uk/ford/8l455-hi-i-ford-focus-07-plate-1-6-climate-car-keeps.html

I'm still going to try and have a look, but it's looking worse by the day. Appreciate all the help!