Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Fitting Handbrake Cable Help


jimmygixer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Need to change my two rear handbrake cables on my 2003 tdci as one side has stretched and doesnt apply the handbrake to that wheel.

Had a look under today and looks like its a ramp job. Any guides on this, looks like heat sheilds need removing some way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I replaced the handbrake cables on my mondeo recently, i chocked the front whells+ in gear, and jacked up the back (quite high) and put a pair of axle stands on the back

The advantage of this (over "little" ramps) is the rear wheels can be spun easily or checked for correct operation to adjust the handbrake etc, + you don't need to start the car (handy if the engine is immobilised/ or you don't want to burn your hands on the exhaust)

i always put the car on level ground and put things under the car (like a full size spare wheel) for safety (axle stands/ jacks/ etc can all be dangerous)

Simply by getting under the car and giving it a good visual inspection can give you a good idea of whhat you need to do, - i had to loosten the adjusting screw in the middle 1st (where the 2rear cables join with the 1 front) then the cables can be unhooked and then at the hubs

A tip is to loosten the rear wheel nuts 1st when they are on the ground if you want to take the wheels off for easier access to the rear braked

A Haynes manual can be a good investement for these sorts of things - you may fing it useful for other things too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only really echo FOCA's comments here, its definitely the best way to proceed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought about doing it this way, just looks harder than it is probably, when i was inspecting it with the car 3cm from my nose lying under it lol, just have to get it higher. I thought it might be a ramp only job.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I thought about doing it this way, just looks harder than it is probably, when i was inspecting it with the car 3cm from my nose lying under it lol, just have to get it higher. I thought it might be a ramp only job.

Cheers.

If you have access to a garage-style ramp or inspection pit, its obviously better, but not everyone has, or they choose to do some jobs on the ground, a good, heavy duty high-lift jack (400+mm hight or more) makes a big difference, and if you have axle stands (i got mine from Halfords, so they are good for something :lol: / they are 2-tonne each and go up really high and were not expensive) - if you have a set of the little ramps you could drive the front of the car onto tjhe ramps then jack the back of the car up and put it on the axle stands, (i don't have little ramps but was thinking of getting them, my jack is heavy-duty, but ancient and does not go very high (im thinking of getting a proper high-lift jack) - i managed to rust-proof the entire underside of my car with just this 1 jack and 2 axle stands, and replace most of the rear brakes etc with minimum tools - all these tools etc can get very expensive, and i prefer to spend my money on other stuff like hi-fi, home cinema, photography, making the car faster/ keeping it running etc, etc )

Ive got this large cardboard sheet (its about the size of a bed/ fits under the car) that i put on the ground when im working on the car, it makes a big difference and makes it a lot more pleasant to work under

If you tackle the job and don't manage to finish it you can always just throw it at a garage/ mechanic - at least you gave it a go!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank for the reply's guys.

Luckily I spotted the real problem. The caliper was seized a bit and the handbrake mechanism was also.

Just cleaned the caliper and pads up and worked the handbrake mechanism free with a bit of WD and back & forward hammering :lol:

Saves a bit of hassle & money on something that wasn't the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank for the reply's guys.

Luckily I spotted the real problem. The caliper was seized a bit and the handbrake mechanism was also.

Just cleaned the caliper and pads up and worked the handbrake mechanism free with a bit of WD and back & forward hammering :lol:

Saves a bit of hassle & money on something that wasn't the problem.

If its got discs on the back-

The rear cables have to be replaced as a pair, as they become streched and they can only be adjusted together (not individually) - for the auto/ self- adjusting mech to work the levers on the calipers have to go back to the bump-stops when the handbrake lever is down or the self-adjusting helix can get damaged

The calipers (handbrake mech) are liable to sieze/ give problems in time, you can loosten it off but its liable to sieze up again sooner or later, when you will have to finally put new caliper(s) on it, so loostening it off may only be a temporary measure - mine never worked right for years untill i replaced 1st one, then the other caliper and 2 new cables,

If the lever sticks on one of the calipers it can wear out the pads/ discs prematurely, waste fuel or even overheat and go on fire

James - i don't think the "best answer" feature will work if the OP can chose thier own best answer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its got discs on the back-

The rear cables have to be replaced as a pair, as they become streched and they can only be adjusted together (not individually) - for the auto/ self- adjusting mech to work the levers on the calipers have to go back to the bump-stops when the handbrake lever is down or the self-adjusting helix can get damaged

The calipers (handbrake mech) are liable to sieze/ give problems in time, you can loosten it off but its liable to sieze up again sooner or later, when you will have to finally put new caliper(s) on it, so loostening it off may only be a temporary measure - mine never worked right for years untill i replaced 1st one, then the other caliper and 2 new cables,

If the lever sticks on one of the calipers it can wear out the pads/ discs prematurely, waste fuel or even overheat and go on fire

James - i don't think the "best answer" feature will work if the OP can chose thier own best answer.

Lol, i just wanted to mark it as solved to make it easier for others to find the same possible fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jimmy,

To be fair, the OP can always find the best answer regardless :) plus that way it can still be marked as best answer/s as you can have multiples if I recall correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership