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Mondeo 2.0 Tdi 2004. How To Easily Remove The Alternator And Belt ( Many Photos )

Plug removing + tool making

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#1 Dave May

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 09:59 PM

1) Drive car up ramps ( I made ramps using 4 X 13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each ). Disconnect battery negative connector. Jack up right hand side front of car off the ramp and support with axle stand. Remove front wheel and splash shield, 3 screws. ( Photo 1 ).

 

2) Remove nut from top of drop link using allen key and spanner. ( Photo 2 ).

 

3) Lever drop link downwards to easily push out the bolt attached to drop link. ( Photo 3 ).

 

4) Move drop link to one side so that there is a space to get alternator out. ( Photo 4 ).

 

5) Remove cooling cover on back of alternator 4 nuts ( 8mm spanner ) and remove 2 wiring connectors. The square connector looks difficult to remove but just press tab with sharpened bent strip of metal and pull plug off ( do not pull on wires ) ( Photos 5 & 6 ).

 

6) Make tool to release spring tensioner pressure from belt. Mine needed 12mm square X 20mm long bar of metal welded to 22 inch long 6mm strip of metal. Other Mondeos could need a hexagon shaped tool, not square. This tool fits square hole or hexagon shaped hole behind tensioner pulley. Pull to the left to remove pressure on the belt and lift the slack belt off alternator pulley( Photos 7, 8 and 9 ). If you don't have a welder a 12mm square X 20mm bar of metal and an adjustable spanner with tube extension could do it but will probably slip off under pressure.

 

7) Remove top bolt from alternator ( this bolt also supports wiring harness ). Then from under car remove the other 2 nuts. This leaves 2 long studs that must be removed using E8 TORX socket or pliers but protect the threads. These studs are not very tight. There is now a clear space to lower the alternator. With these 2 studs removed it is also very easy to position the new belt.You will see this when refitting the belt. I purchased a set of TORX sockets from Amazon ( Silverline 675072 14 piece only £8.80 ) very useful for other jobs on the car.

 

8) Turn alternator so that widest part is horizontal and wiggle it through hole under wheel arch ( photo 10 ).

 

I then also removed complete spring tensioner, another 3 bolts, to inspect it. ( nothing wrong with mine ). This has to be removed if you also want to change the belt. Don't forget to loop the new belt around the spring tensioner before fitting the 3 bolts. Only fit one of the top 2 bolts loosely  ( the outside bolt ) of the spring tensioner then its easier to get the new belt round the spring tensioner pulley as you can move the tensioner outwards to give a 6mm clearance between the engine block and pulley. Note this is the reason the 2 studs must be out because if they were screwed in you would not get any 6mm movement to get the belt round the pulley. You will probably have a few attempts to get the belt in correct position but its only one loose bolt to remove if you forget to loop the belt behind the tensioner.

 

Now you can go ahead and screw the studs back in while holding the alternator in place plus the lower bracket of the spring tensioner.

 

.

I forgot to position the lower bracket of the spring tensioner onto the 2 studs. Note how long the threads are on the studs without the spring tensioner bracket on. Make sure you fit the studs complete with alternator and spring tensioner bracket ( photos 11 & 12 ).

 

I found it easier to fit the belt on the alternator pulley last when using the spring tensioner release tool.

 

My car is an automatic and the crankshaft pulley was in good condition although rusty.

 

Just for the record if you get another car, I consider the 5 speed tiptronic automatic gearboxes on Ford cars to be brilliant, I have had my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Est Auto 2004 since new and this gearbox has not given any problems at all. No clutch or flywheel repairs on my car.

Its done 142,000 miles on original battery, alternator and serpentine belt. I am only changing the belt today because it should be done at 50,000 miles but there was still no sign of wear.

 

Hope these photos and explaination make it easy for you to do this job. Any problems just ask.

 

Good Luck

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

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#2 FOCA

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 11:07 PM

Its a good guide - there are "how to" guides on another part of the site, though - i would replace the belt tensioner and even the crank pully at the same time as they are prone to wear over time and rattle & your crank pully looks old/ rusty    



#3 stooge75

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 05:00 PM

i take it you havent got an undertray on your car?



#4 Dave May

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 09:49 PM

Only under the radiator about 12 inches long. Its never had a full undertray.



#5 stooge75

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 10:09 PM

thought so. your car has the same surface rust mines has under there. why folk discard under trays is daft lol.even though theyre a pain in the bottom(eh jeebo),they keep everything dry & a couple degrees warmer. 



#6 jeebowhite

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 12:05 PM

hehe ;) liking the choice of words there mr Stooge ;)

 

As for the thread, I have pinned it to the top of the mondy section. I am in discussion with management to get more guides sections set up, one for the mondeo section. If this goes through it will be moved there :)



#7 Nic Powell

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 09:38 PM

Hi Dave..

,,,actually its a GREAT guide .. thank you for taking the time to post it .... I just signed up with the club/forum specifically to tell you that !

..  exactly enough details for a reasonably competent home mechanic to see the lie-of-the-land  , and figure beforehand if its "reasonably do-able"  (or not)  on a wintery December afternoon on the driveway !

- certainly saved me the 90-quid the local garage wanted.

I do confess to slipping  the old belt back on for now ...  failing light ... not immediately obvious how the tensioner unhooks for belt replacement ... and I hadnt yet located an equally informative guide to the nuances of tensioner removal   ( ... a Hint , Dave ?! :-) )

Not Like the "old days" when you could see which  "lumps" come out easily or not, and change a Cortina alternator in ten-minutes flat .

Thanks again,

Nic

( oh...and I wasn't too bothered about a bit of minor surface rust on the face of my engine pulley either  ) 



#8 jeebowhite

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:15 AM

Glad to hear the guide here was of use to you Nik!

 

Feel free to post any pictures and parts of your own guide if you do fathom these things out! we all like to share knowledge! The more money we keep out of Ford's back pocket the better :P



#9 Dave May

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:22 PM

Thanks for the positive feedback Nic, it was good to know my experience of doing the job had helped someone.

 

Did you manage to make the welded tool for the spring tensioner? The difficult job for me was trying to disconnect the 3 pin plug on the alternator, but after realising where the tab was, it just fell off, no need to force anything. I could now easily change an alternator and belt in less than 2 hours. Best with a ramp and Torx socket though.

 

You will soon see how the belt is routed. The spring tensioner has two brackets top and bottom bolted onto the engine block. The belt runs over and under the top bracket so is trapped.

 

These serpentine belts only drive two units, the alternator and the A/C pump ( the water pump has a seperate belt ). I think this belt would have lasted 200,000  miles provided the alternator and A/C pump do not seize up. So you could just let it run until it eventually snaps. The car will still run and not overheat, its just the battery that will gradually go flat and the diesel will run a lot longer than the petrol engine, but join the AA to get you home just incase.

 

Best Wishes for Christmas everyone.

 

Dave



#10 jeebowhite

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 05:15 PM

Now made into a guide in the mondeo section :)



#11 Dave May

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 06:20 PM

A



#12 Podzak

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 11:47 PM

Nice but doesn't Haynes ( LOL ) advise against forcing the drop link down?



#13 Dave May

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 12:48 PM

You have to relieve spring pressure on the drop link so the bolt can be pushed out. Levering downwards is the only way to do that. Try it and you will see it will not damage anything. Obviously levering downwards with the bolts tight will break something.




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