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Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec 2005 - Dashboard Problems


Zetec Dave
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Hi All

I'm hoping someone can give me some advice.

After five years of ownership circumstances have just forced me to buy another car, a Peugeot 307 SW. This means that I'm about to sell my beloved Ford Focus 2005 1.6 Zetec which has been great during the time I've had it.

Yesterday I started cleaning it all up ready to photograph for Autotrader. Today, I tried to start it and the electrics were dead, not even enough power to run the radio. The battery is not that old so should be fine. I charged the battery up and it did then start up. The problem now though is that the speedometer needle has moved to about 50mph and the water temp gauge to hot even though the engine had just started. Turning the engine off left the needles in these positions. I even removed the battery terminals and the needles remained in their positions.

This is obviously very annoying as I'm wanting to sell the car but I could be faced with an unexpected bill.

I'd be very grateful therefore if anyone can advise what may be wrong or what action to take.

Thanks in advance.

David

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try get the car into diagnostics mode. I suspect that your battery is kaput, but access the self test menu and watch the dials, do they swing correctly?

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Thanks for the speedy reply.

I have got enough charge into the battery to restart the car so I'd be surprised if the battery is kaput.

How do I access the self test menu? Afraid I've never needed to to this during my five years ownership as the car has been very reliable, right up the point where it has to be sold!

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OK so to access self test, if you have the trip computer you need to press and hold the reset button as you start the car. Dont let go until the car shows self test. Then press the reset button to circle through the menus. You should also be able to read the DTC codes.

As for the battery, starting the car doesnt matter. I recently had to replace a battery I bought at the start of the year - eurocarparts insisted the battery was perfect, yet I was getting the battery light flick on and off, the car started to stall and recover. The error codes show battery voltage was high then low. Car runs perfectly now, but the car started time after time.

As Arthur said, make sure its silver calcium, anything else wont work as expected.

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Thanks for that.

A update.

I did the diagnostic test and noticed that the 'gauge test' brought the two errant needles down a bit. I therefore repeated the test and got the needles their correct positions.

I then took the car for a quick spin but then noticed the 'Engine Immobiliser' light was flashing quite rapidly so returned home.

Unfortunately I tried to start the car again and the starter was very sluggish and it didn't fire up.

I opened up the bonnet to disconnect the battery so I could charge it but noticed a lot of water in the plastic cover shrouding the spark plugs. After mopping that up I removed all the plugs and noticed they were very rusty. I suspect the problem is caused by the washer jets leaking back into the engine bay. I'm therefore going to get some more plugs this afternoon and hopefully with a full charge in the battery it may be okay.

Fingers crossed as they say...

It's obviously all very annoying as I had planned to have the car on Autotrader by now.

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just hope the rusty water hasnt ceased the plugs ide let the wd40 sit a bit before doing it also check once the plugs out for leaking core plugs its likely now the leads and coil pack will need replaced im afraid

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I managed to get the plugs out easily and have now got some new ones. Just about to fit them and then with a fully charged battery I'll see how things are.

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gap the plugs at 1.0mm they will be pregapped at 1.3mm which ford doesnt do anymnore

cant see that b eing the issue it wouldnt effect the lights youve had on the dash if im honest neithrer would a faulty coil pack all indications lead toward battery and charging circuits or a badly duff coil and a battery issue

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battery charged up, new plugs in, leads all cleaned. Did a Self Diagnostics and the needles went back to zero. Took the car for a drive and all seems fine.

Not sure what gap is on the plugs but do they really need closing to 1mm. The car seemed to run fine.

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yes the car will start spluttering after a while quite badly and feel like its missing if they arent done i suggest you just sell it quick before the weather starts adding more costs to youre wallet mate

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these calcium batteries need a correct type of charger to charge them fully, normally need 24hrs to do it too

also worth noting that cars alternator will not fully recharge the battery no matter how long you drive it...

if a flat battery doesnt get a full and correct charge it will shorten the life of it... [also why a lot of warranty claims on batteries get turned down]

just some points to keep in mind

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